Douglas fir/oregon,planking

dimanche 30 mars 2014

Determined to build this "Heidi"lapstrake row/sail boat.I want to build it using as authentic methods/materials as i can.Altho. ply planking would be MORE stable than half inch timber,There are problems with ply.I am NOT going to epoxy ply strakes as in many modern lapstrakes.I will be using copper rivets/roves,Caulking the seams.The difference will be the bottom,being flat and stored out of the water i'm fibreglassing it.Interior, hull varnish.Exterior planking,,,paint.Douglas fir/oregon as half inch thick planking? Does anyone here in Australia know of an alternative?I'm in Melbourne.




So you need a simple slot in steel and you just have a metal lathe.

So here is how i do it. A simple angle plate bolted to the cross slide and a suitable end mill holder. Plus some clamps. The plate was pre drilled on the ends where the slot will be just to make it easier to line it up with the cutter...Bob

Video http://ift.tt/1pteUuu


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Trophy Shield

I was asked to make a trophy shield & as I had never done one before, I decided to have a crack at it.



I had an off cut of Fijian Mahogany, (same species as Brazillian Mahogony but growen in Fiji) left over from when I built our front door a couple of years ago, so I thought that should do the trick.



It is sanded to 2000 grit & finished with about 6 coats Tung Oil & Turps, then I used UBeaut EEE.



Hope you like it.







shield3.jpgshield4.jpgshield5.jpgshield6.jpgshield7.jpg



Steve


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basic gas torch vocabulary for newbs

When I read the different metalwork books from the library, various home made tools are portrayed as relatively easy exercises.



You just go to the shed, shape up a bit of silver steel then heat to "straw" or "cherry red" then either quench in oil/water, cool in air then maybe reheat or chuck it in a tin full of sand in the oven when nobody is looking and hey presto you have a new home made gizmo. Precise instructions are usually given in the books.



As a starting exercise, I tried to heat up some metal with a little gas torch and there wasn't even the slightest hint of a colour change.



Suspect I have to get a much bigger flame.



My little gas torch screws directly into a tiny gas cylinder - easily held in one hand - what do I need to buy to get little bits of metal red hot ?



any good web sites or previous threads to get me started learning what I need to buy ? Am not sure of the right words to search for in google / ebay / gumtree etc



Bill




Interesting drill press.

Groovers, I recently purchased this oversized drill press and was wondering if anyone knew anything about it from the pictures. The table is 900mm across, 75mm deep around the edge. The total thickness is 30mm.

To me it looks like a patch job but the price was right and location near. Any information appreciated. Damien.miyu and drill 010.JPGmiyu and drill 006.JPGmiyu and drill 007.JPGmiyu and drill 008.JPGmiyu and drill 009.JPGmiyu and drill 011.JPG





Older style Angled Parting tool holder ?

Hi , a general question here ,I have been out of the trade for quite some time now, My 20 yr old lathe is a bit worn ,but ok for non critical work :) My question is I am after one of the older style parting tool holders which were angled similar to the attached picture, they used to take a high tensile holder with a carbide tip braised on , the main advantage is that under load they could give a little ,unlike HSS which can fracture ,especially with a dig in :( . I have done some searching online but no luck so far ,any body know if these types are still available ,and if so any ideas where ?

My lathe is quite heavy duty but with the old belt drive pulleys and back gear has an 8" chuck and adjustable tapered headstock bearings ,I get a bit of chatter with my current parting tool , and not enough speed for insert tools ,

The ones I remember had a side plate for clamping the tool ,this one pictured is for a back tool post, but the principle is the same I think. Cheers ~ John





Uneven door or frame, how to fix?

Hi there,



We bought our house a couple of years ago and it had been restumped approx 10-15 yrs ago. Our front door doesn't seem to fit properly, never has and with winter looming was thinking should have a go at some draught proofing. Issue is large uneven gap at top and bottom, my guess is door was made to fit years ago and then house restumped and now door doesn't fit properly.



I have aver attached some pics, gap is wider on latch side at top and wider on hinge side on bottom but both sides are tight so I was thinking shims wouldn't work?? I'm leaning towards the idea of just cutting a large timber wedge to attach to top and a draught stopper for the bottom but would love to hear some better suggestions from someone who knows what they are talking bout, I'm g

just guessing!!



cheers, jules

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