Have been battling toe issues down to 8 1/3 toes way it is going might be 7. Thems the breaks I guess. Well snuck to the shed and got a Gothica out of the bag. It is antique pewter and used a custom cast to dress it up. See what you think
Repace Table Saw Top?
Just looking for some thoughts.
I have an older Ryobi table saw however, it has not been used a lot due to small top, somewhat sloppy miter slots and crappy fence setup. Most times I have found that I revert back to timber or aluminum straight edges. Woodwork is not something I do each week or month.
As the saw can be raised and lowered and can cut angles it has the basics of a reasonable table. It is not worth much to sell and at present, with the amount woodwork that I do, I cannot justify spending $1000 or more on a new/second hand saw. Even if I did get a newer on,e I would still have to think about adding an outfeed table that could be raised and lowered as I need to keep the size down overall. Therefore I am considering replacing the aluminum top with a home build top. I know that the saw and its mechanism is fixed to the front underside of the aluminum top.
I have looked through this site and a a lot on the internet to pick up ideas on tops.
I am considering doing a table top, something like the outfeed table in the video here: http://ift.tt/1v9f9jk or
Something like in this video http://ift.tt/1vFDNqu - except not fixing to the existing top.
The concern I have is that when I have looked at mdf and ply at various stores, it is already bowed and way off being straight. I am worried that after gluing 2 pieces together it will not be flat and the whole thing end up being a waste of time. I have also considered Formply and the laminated bench tops at Bunnings. Are my concerns correct or is there some way in which I can fabricate to make sure things turn out flat?
I also understand that I will need to do some fabricating to establish a new mounting part to swing saw on new arrangement.
I have also read this thread with interest: http://ift.tt/1v9f9jq
regards
I have an older Ryobi table saw however, it has not been used a lot due to small top, somewhat sloppy miter slots and crappy fence setup. Most times I have found that I revert back to timber or aluminum straight edges. Woodwork is not something I do each week or month.
As the saw can be raised and lowered and can cut angles it has the basics of a reasonable table. It is not worth much to sell and at present, with the amount woodwork that I do, I cannot justify spending $1000 or more on a new/second hand saw. Even if I did get a newer on,e I would still have to think about adding an outfeed table that could be raised and lowered as I need to keep the size down overall. Therefore I am considering replacing the aluminum top with a home build top. I know that the saw and its mechanism is fixed to the front underside of the aluminum top.
I have looked through this site and a a lot on the internet to pick up ideas on tops.
I am considering doing a table top, something like the outfeed table in the video here: http://ift.tt/1v9f9jk or
Something like in this video http://ift.tt/1vFDNqu - except not fixing to the existing top.
The concern I have is that when I have looked at mdf and ply at various stores, it is already bowed and way off being straight. I am worried that after gluing 2 pieces together it will not be flat and the whole thing end up being a waste of time. I have also considered Formply and the laminated bench tops at Bunnings. Are my concerns correct or is there some way in which I can fabricate to make sure things turn out flat?
I also understand that I will need to do some fabricating to establish a new mounting part to swing saw on new arrangement.
I have also read this thread with interest: http://ift.tt/1v9f9jq
regards
MALE V FEMALE AT THE ATM
MALE V FEMALE AT THE ATM
A new sign in the Bank reads:
'Please note that this Bank is installing new Drive-through ATM machines enabling customers to withdraw cash without leaving their vehicles
Customers using this new facility are requested to use the procedures outlined below when accessing their accounts.
After months of careful research, MALE & FEMALE Procedures have been developed.
Please follow the Appropriate steps for your gender'
*******************************
MALE PROCEDURE:
1... Drive up to the ATM.
2. LOWER your car window.
3. Insert card into machine and enter PIN.
4. Enter amount of cash required and withdraw.
5. Retrieve card, cash and receipt.
6. Raise window..
7. Drive off..
************************* ******
FEMALE PROCEDURE:
(Unfortunately, most of this is the Truth.!!)
1. Drive up to ATM machine.
2. Reverse and back up the required amount to align car window with the machine.
3. Put hand brake on, put the window down.
4. Find handbag, remove all contents on to passenger seat to locate card.
5. Tell person on mobile phone you will call them back and hang up
6. Attempt to insert card into machine.
7 Open car door to allow easier access to machine due to its excessive distance from the car.
8. Insert card.
9. Re-insert card the right way.
10. Dig through handbag to find diary with your PIN written on the inside back page.
11. Enter PIN ..
12. Press cancel and re-enter correct PIN.
13. Enter amount of cash required.
14. Check makeup in rear view mirror.
15. Retrieve cash and receipt.
16. Empty handbag again to locate purse and place cash inside.
17. Write debit amount in cheque book and place receipt in back of it.
18. Re-check makeup.
19. Drive forward 2 feet.
20. Reverse back to ATM machine.
21. Retrieve card.
22. Re-empty hand bag, locate card holder, and place card into the slot provided.
23. Give dirty look to irate male driver waiting behind you..
24. Restart stalled engine and drive off.
25. Redial person on mobile phone.
26. Drive for 2 to 3 kilometres.
27. Release Hand Brake.
SEND THIS TO A MAN WHO NEEDS A LAUGH AND TO THE LADIES YOU THINK CAN HANDLE IT..............
Now before you yell at me... This was sent to me by a female who was sent it by another female. If it can pass muster by those two tough old birds then I guess it can't be too bad. ( At least I laughed anyway ).
Stewie
Chinese fencing wire
I have seen Chinese farm fencing ring lock and hinge joint and another quite cheap. 2.5mm wire sounds really good.
My enquiry is has anyone tried it? It says gal dipped but I would hate to buy and install and have it rust in 5 years.:?
My enquiry is has anyone tried it? It says gal dipped but I would hate to buy and install and have it rust in 5 years.:?
Adventures in matte 2k paint.
Before I start anything here, if you intend to use 2 pack paint, do some reading and make sure you have the correct PPE which is a supplied air, full face respirator. It's nasty stuff and it's absorbed through your eyes as well as your lungs. Be safe!!!!
So I'm in the process of building my dream house and my dream kitchen. I love ply and am using it through the kitchen cabinets as well as the drawer fronts. I've been trying for ages to work out how to finish the drawer fronts and the carcasses (also ply). Previously I've always used poly on ply where I've wanted a hard wearing finish but it always makes things look a bit plasticky. It's also not great over other paint which is what I wanted for the kitchen drawer fronts.
I love 2pak paint, it sprays like a dream, dries quickly and is tough as nails. The big trouble is it's gloss level. It's very very glossy which is great if that's your thing but I've been on a mission to knock the gloss level down for a while now. I've tried sanding the clear coat with 500 and 800 (hard to get an even finish) I've tried the festool viles sanding pads (like a scotchbrite) in various grades which is better and easier to get even but still not perfect and things still look a bit plasticky.
I recently tried a new paint shop and got talking to a very knowledgable and enthusiastic bloke from Premier Automotive Paints in Malaga WA. I was explained what I was trying to achieve and he put this tin down on the counter.
Even at $100 a litre it was worth a shot because this finish has been driving me mental for a while.
I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. This is 3 coats of 2 pack clear over bare timber and spray putty, basecoat and 3 coats of clear for the colour on the front.
It is absolutely stunning. Perfectly matte and tough as nails.
It has a very very slight texture which is impossible to see in the pics but over the bare timber (sanded to 400 grit) it feels for all the world like you're touching raw timber. Even when I know that it's the texture of the paint I'm feeling, my brain says "raw timber". It's certainly something I'm going to be playing with more and more in my furniture building. It's a constant battle between finish and wear with any functional pieces like say a coffee table. Everyone wants to be able to put their coffee cup down and not have it stain, you want to be able to scrub dirt off it with a scourer but still want it to feel like natural wood. It's looking like with this product you can have both.
So I'm in the process of building my dream house and my dream kitchen. I love ply and am using it through the kitchen cabinets as well as the drawer fronts. I've been trying for ages to work out how to finish the drawer fronts and the carcasses (also ply). Previously I've always used poly on ply where I've wanted a hard wearing finish but it always makes things look a bit plasticky. It's also not great over other paint which is what I wanted for the kitchen drawer fronts.
I love 2pak paint, it sprays like a dream, dries quickly and is tough as nails. The big trouble is it's gloss level. It's very very glossy which is great if that's your thing but I've been on a mission to knock the gloss level down for a while now. I've tried sanding the clear coat with 500 and 800 (hard to get an even finish) I've tried the festool viles sanding pads (like a scotchbrite) in various grades which is better and easier to get even but still not perfect and things still look a bit plasticky.
I recently tried a new paint shop and got talking to a very knowledgable and enthusiastic bloke from Premier Automotive Paints in Malaga WA. I was explained what I was trying to achieve and he put this tin down on the counter.
Even at $100 a litre it was worth a shot because this finish has been driving me mental for a while.
I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. This is 3 coats of 2 pack clear over bare timber and spray putty, basecoat and 3 coats of clear for the colour on the front.
It is absolutely stunning. Perfectly matte and tough as nails.
It has a very very slight texture which is impossible to see in the pics but over the bare timber (sanded to 400 grit) it feels for all the world like you're touching raw timber. Even when I know that it's the texture of the paint I'm feeling, my brain says "raw timber". It's certainly something I'm going to be playing with more and more in my furniture building. It's a constant battle between finish and wear with any functional pieces like say a coffee table. Everyone wants to be able to put their coffee cup down and not have it stain, you want to be able to scrub dirt off it with a scourer but still want it to feel like natural wood. It's looking like with this product you can have both.
brass hinges / case locks et al
On offer, as part of my workshop down sizing, are lift-off brass hinges, a face plate and five pair of case locks.
All new, never used.
Available on auction.
Postage: Probably fit the Australia Post small parcel size, say $7.50
hinges & face plate.jpg . School case locks 2.jpg . School case locks.jpg
All new, never used.
Available on auction.
Postage: Probably fit the Australia Post small parcel size, say $7.50
hinges & face plate.jpg . School case locks 2.jpg . School case locks.jpg
18 Volt driver
what would be your pick as the best driver to buy main reason for purchase is installation of a flat pack kitchen my needs are
a light cause I am half blind
at least two batteries
would be good to get 2 drivers 2 batteries in one package deal
most importantly I want to purchase from a seller on this forum
t.i.a.
Neil
a light cause I am half blind
at least two batteries
would be good to get 2 drivers 2 batteries in one package deal
most importantly I want to purchase from a seller on this forum
t.i.a.
Neil
Bandsaw Laguna 14/Twelve, SUV and Harvey HW614
Hello all,
I have seen a number of great writeups on the Laguna 14/Twelve .. infact Fine Woodworking recently rated it above the Laguna SUV.
The extra HP of the SUV is attractive and I dont think i will be resawing above 280mm (Jet 260 combo size) However, it is the footbrake that would swing it for me to the SUV over the 14/12
BUT after looking further I noticed the Harvey HW614 ... and now I am inclinded to the Harvey HW614 becasue it's spec is very much like the Laguana SUV ... but the same price as the Laguna 14/12
Help me out here please ... Has anyone knowledge of the HW614 and if so how does it rate?
Is a footbrake a desirable feature?
Another side consideration is that I am also tossing up between the Laguna Fusion 36 and the Harvey HW110LGE-30 (much the same price). Is matching brands in the workshop of any great benefit?
Thanks
Rob
I have seen a number of great writeups on the Laguna 14/Twelve .. infact Fine Woodworking recently rated it above the Laguna SUV.
The extra HP of the SUV is attractive and I dont think i will be resawing above 280mm (Jet 260 combo size) However, it is the footbrake that would swing it for me to the SUV over the 14/12
BUT after looking further I noticed the Harvey HW614 ... and now I am inclinded to the Harvey HW614 becasue it's spec is very much like the Laguana SUV ... but the same price as the Laguna 14/12
Help me out here please ... Has anyone knowledge of the HW614 and if so how does it rate?
Is a footbrake a desirable feature?
Another side consideration is that I am also tossing up between the Laguna Fusion 36 and the Harvey HW110LGE-30 (much the same price). Is matching brands in the workshop of any great benefit?
Thanks
Rob
old laptop screens
I have several old laptop screens hp Compaq and similar and I wanted to hook them all up to a dvd player does anyone know how to go about this?
t.i.a.
neil
t.i.a.
neil
How to create accurate round ends
Folks,
Can somebody please enlighten me as to how to create accurate rounded ends on a length of timber as per the attached drawing.
I would like it to be as accurate a curve as possible, but short of roughing it out, and then sanding to a line, I can't see another way of achieving this, and it won't be as accurate as I would like.
I am talking about relatively small stock here, around the 20mm square and want the diameter of the curve to be equal to the width of the stock
Thanks
Ian
rounded end.jpg
Can somebody please enlighten me as to how to create accurate rounded ends on a length of timber as per the attached drawing.
I would like it to be as accurate a curve as possible, but short of roughing it out, and then sanding to a line, I can't see another way of achieving this, and it won't be as accurate as I would like.
I am talking about relatively small stock here, around the 20mm square and want the diameter of the curve to be equal to the width of the stock
Thanks
Ian
rounded end.jpg
Emco Unimat SL Brochure Scan
Joe sent me a small collection of brochures the other day, Hercus' 260, No 1 tool and cutter grinder, the No 0 Mill and the attached Unimat. The Hercus brochures, I have previously either posted here as scans or by Australia Post to interested parties.
I do have some scans of Emco's FB-2 mill that I can also post here if there is interest.
Bob.
I do have some scans of Emco's FB-2 mill that I can also post here if there is interest.
Bob.
Fastening legs to table - conundrum
Hi Guys, new user. Have had a search around the forum for an answer but have come up trumps. I’m hoping someone with a bit more experience could provide me with some ideas.
I'm currently building a dining table. the construction is a large (2.5mx1.5m) top from recycled feature rich messmate and the legs are a box (loop) design.
The top is ready for finishing and I’ve just built the legs last night.
I’ve been looking for ways to fasten the box legs to the underside. Originally it was going to be just glued in and the table would have become a permanent fixture in the house. However we will now be moving in about a year, so Need to make the legs removable.
I have considered some brass threaded inserts, but all of the ones that i can source are relatively small and would need a mountain of them to fasten legs securely i assume, and then some brackets for good measure.
Have also looked at hanger bolts. Not as much a fan of these as the inserts.
Can anyone suggest an alternative, or are these two methods really my only options?
Thanks in advance
I'm currently building a dining table. the construction is a large (2.5mx1.5m) top from recycled feature rich messmate and the legs are a box (loop) design.
The top is ready for finishing and I’ve just built the legs last night.
I’ve been looking for ways to fasten the box legs to the underside. Originally it was going to be just glued in and the table would have become a permanent fixture in the house. However we will now be moving in about a year, so Need to make the legs removable.
I have considered some brass threaded inserts, but all of the ones that i can source are relatively small and would need a mountain of them to fasten legs securely i assume, and then some brackets for good measure.
Have also looked at hanger bolts. Not as much a fan of these as the inserts.
Can anyone suggest an alternative, or are these two methods really my only options?
Thanks in advance
Tool makers
Hi
We run a small outfit selling our own design wood tools and some we import.
it would be great to have Australian made woodwork tools listed.
Is this of interest to people who can make small batch runs?
Email if you are interested
raf@interwoodshop.com.au
http://ift.tt/10tX0jQ
We run a small outfit selling our own design wood tools and some we import.
it would be great to have Australian made woodwork tools listed.
Is this of interest to people who can make small batch runs?
Email if you are interested
raf@interwoodshop.com.au
http://ift.tt/10tX0jQ
No second top plate on internal walls
Did a frame inspection today and noticed that all the internal walls did not feature a second top plate as per the load bearing walls. They tied them to the trusses with some sort of gal bracket. Would this let the walls move separate of the ceiling and make the cornice crack?
Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...
Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...
The likelihood of burls being ok from rotten tree
I've been offered a big chunk of an old redgum tree for $80 that has at least 3 good sized (1'+) burls on it located around what looks to be a multi-crotch section.
The chunk is very old and the main trunk/branches have rotted out but with still an inch or two of solid timber around the edges. Let's say that anywhere between 40-70% has rotted from the middle.
What are my chances that the burls are still worth harvesting from this piece? I'm keen to give it a go, but slightly worried that I'm only buying .25m of firewood for $80 :q
The chunk is very old and the main trunk/branches have rotted out but with still an inch or two of solid timber around the edges. Let's say that anywhere between 40-70% has rotted from the middle.
What are my chances that the burls are still worth harvesting from this piece? I'm keen to give it a go, but slightly worried that I'm only buying .25m of firewood for $80 :q
Waldown Grinder 3ph to 1Ph
Guys I am wanting to convert my 3ph Waldown grinders to single phase.
My idea is to have 1 VFD since both grinders are the same and a switch between the two grinders and the VFD. Only one grinder operational at a time.
My first question how difficult is it to rewire the Waldown grinder specifically to either star or delta as required?
Has anyone done this specific change?
My idea is to have 1 VFD since both grinders are the same and a switch between the two grinders and the VFD. Only one grinder operational at a time.
My first question how difficult is it to rewire the Waldown grinder specifically to either star or delta as required?
Has anyone done this specific change?
The LV kit plane update
Some of you may have seen the review I wrote on the LV plane kit in the last issue of AWR. The kit is reasonably priced and pretty easy to put together, though as I said in my review, there are a couple of steps that the instructions don't cover very well. In particular, they don't give you much detail about how to make the 'lever-cap' wedge, and I bumbled my way through that as best I could, but wasn't entirely happy with the result. The plane worked well enough on the test drive, but when I put it to serious work, I discovered a problem. The wedge loosens itself if you back off the depth setting, which is a nuisance, because if you are not being careful, the adjuster easily slews, which throws off the lateral adjustment. :~
Today I took a bit of time to investigate the problem & try to fix it. I considered making a metal lever cap, but rejected that for a number of reasons, one of which being that the holes in the sides for the brass cross-pin were in the wrong spot for lever-cap screws, & I would have to make brass inserts, large enough to fill those holes & give me enough room to drill new ones for the lever cap. That seemed like a lot of fuss, so after some head-scratching, I decided on a much simpler path. I just remade the wedge, but pre-drilled it so that when the end was cut away, there was a nice neat groove for the cross-pin to fit into, and lock in place when the thumb screw is tightened. Lever caps.jpg
Don't know why I didn't think of it first time. It's a bit of an odd shape, not a wedge, but a parallel piece with the front cut away so it can just slide under the cross-pin with the blade in place. I wanted to keep it as thick as I could so it doesn't bend when the thumbscrew is tightened. The blade has to go in first, because the spigot of the adjuster won't allow it to go in if the wedge is inserted first. A bit of careful planing of the back & shaping of the nose got it right, and it now locks firmly in place as soon as a bit of pressure is applied with the thumb screw. I can now make small adjustments to the depth of cut without losing tension or having my blade slew one way or the other. Less fine.jpg
When I wrote the review, I questioned the need for a depth adjuster at all on a simple woodie, and I would have been just as happy without it, but now that it's working a lot better, I am finding it convenient, because I find I do alter the depth of cut quite a bit when using this particular plane. The little coffin smoother I made a while ago is a 'set once & leave it there' plane, so I don't miss not having screw-operated depth adjustment on it. The two make a very handy pair for all sorts of small jobs.
small smoothers.jpg
Cheers,
Today I took a bit of time to investigate the problem & try to fix it. I considered making a metal lever cap, but rejected that for a number of reasons, one of which being that the holes in the sides for the brass cross-pin were in the wrong spot for lever-cap screws, & I would have to make brass inserts, large enough to fill those holes & give me enough room to drill new ones for the lever cap. That seemed like a lot of fuss, so after some head-scratching, I decided on a much simpler path. I just remade the wedge, but pre-drilled it so that when the end was cut away, there was a nice neat groove for the cross-pin to fit into, and lock in place when the thumb screw is tightened. Lever caps.jpg
Don't know why I didn't think of it first time. It's a bit of an odd shape, not a wedge, but a parallel piece with the front cut away so it can just slide under the cross-pin with the blade in place. I wanted to keep it as thick as I could so it doesn't bend when the thumbscrew is tightened. The blade has to go in first, because the spigot of the adjuster won't allow it to go in if the wedge is inserted first. A bit of careful planing of the back & shaping of the nose got it right, and it now locks firmly in place as soon as a bit of pressure is applied with the thumb screw. I can now make small adjustments to the depth of cut without losing tension or having my blade slew one way or the other. Less fine.jpg
When I wrote the review, I questioned the need for a depth adjuster at all on a simple woodie, and I would have been just as happy without it, but now that it's working a lot better, I am finding it convenient, because I find I do alter the depth of cut quite a bit when using this particular plane. The little coffin smoother I made a while ago is a 'set once & leave it there' plane, so I don't miss not having screw-operated depth adjustment on it. The two make a very handy pair for all sorts of small jobs.
small smoothers.jpg
Cheers,
VanDeStadt Sloop
Hello,
I thought I'd share my project with you. I've been working on it for a few years now have am just getting a wiggle on after a year or so off. She's a 45' Van De Stadt Sloop; strip planked Western Red Cedar and skinned both sides. The hull is faired and in undercoat waiting to be blocked and final coat but I won't do that until the lid is on.
https://www.facebook.com/MoorooducBoatBuilder?ref=hl
Not quite sure if a link to facebook is the right thing but the full history of the build is there.
Cheers
Rod
I thought I'd share my project with you. I've been working on it for a few years now have am just getting a wiggle on after a year or so off. She's a 45' Van De Stadt Sloop; strip planked Western Red Cedar and skinned both sides. The hull is faired and in undercoat waiting to be blocked and final coat but I won't do that until the lid is on.
https://www.facebook.com/MoorooducBoatBuilder?ref=hl
Not quite sure if a link to facebook is the right thing but the full history of the build is there.
Cheers
Rod
Wanted (Vic) Custom aluminium fence for Hitachi C10FSH sliding compound saw. Lower Plenty 3093
Hi All, managed to bend the left side of a custom fence for the above saw. Originally purchased with the saw from Gill's Tools in Coburg which doesn't exist anymore. Gill's Tools custom made these excellent fences for his clients. Seeing if anyone knows if these custom made fences are still available or if someone has one they wish to sell.
Many thanks
Renato
Many thanks
Renato
Woodworking Masterclass Season 2 Melbourne
Woodworking Masterclass, Season 2 goes to air in Melbourne tomorrow night Monday 1st Dec 2014 @ 8.00pm
On C31.
Thanks for your support and for the support of Jim Carroll
http://www.cwsonline.com.au/
If you're in Melbourne please show him the support he has shown us.
Thanks Jim.
Season 2 will be aired on TVS in Sydney starting 7th January 2015 @ 7.30
New online 'Woodworking Masterclass e-workshop' to be launched within the next 2 weeks.
Cheers
Steve
http://woodworkingmasterclass.com
On C31.
Thanks for your support and for the support of Jim Carroll
http://www.cwsonline.com.au/
If you're in Melbourne please show him the support he has shown us.
Thanks Jim.
Season 2 will be aired on TVS in Sydney starting 7th January 2015 @ 7.30
New online 'Woodworking Masterclass e-workshop' to be launched within the next 2 weeks.
Cheers
Steve
http://woodworkingmasterclass.com
Making a vertical lathe - and very large bowls
This is an idea I'm thinking about but because I have no real engineering experience I thought I'd reality-check it here. If its a rubbish idea, please tell me before I expend any more precious thinking-time on it.
Anyway, a few years ago I bought an inexpensive lathe and got into wood turning. I did turning for about 6 months before giving it up - making some quite nice things - but ultimately deciding there were enough dog-bowls in the world already. The one thing I remained interested in however, which I would still like to pursue, was making some really large bowls - I guess I'm meaning 500+ millimetres across, maybe up to 800mm.
I have all sorts of ideas about large bowls which look good in my mind (probably not in practise but we will see and thats the fun of it).
Obviously you cant make something that big on an inexpensive lathe - the distance from bed to centre would stop you if nothing else.
So I'm thinking of perhaps making my own lathe.
Most of my mega-bowl ideas are not what you would call finely-featured forms. Thats good, because it steers me away from a high-precision engineering solution.
Thinking about making a lathe means going back to scratch. As I'm only interested in making a lathe suitable for very large bowls (no turning between centres stuff) I have wondered if the best solution is a vertical lathe. I did a search for vertical lathes for home-oriented wood turning on the internet with no success. This seems odd as I doubt I'm the first person to think of it.
So I guess its a lathe like a potters wheel - but larger and very much more robust as its turning very large bits of wood.
The advantages I can see are that:
1. You would be able to turn a very heavy object (subject to motor size) without gravity playing a negative role. This means you have more tolerance in terms of engineering precision, bearing quality etc. Thus it should be easier to make.
2. You could have a very wide, flat platen (the wide horizontal plate which I see the blank sitting on), which would enable you to have all sorts of holding mechanisms for these large blanks. The blank would sit on the platen with great stability.
3. There could be a safety angle. There is little risk of the blank coming loose and hurting you because its already (in a sense) fallen as far as it can.
4. There would be no limits on the size of the object you could turn, except perhaps motor power.
Out of these, point 1 is the main one. It seems to me that building a lathe to turn heavy object with a horizontal shaft is wrong, because the object is putting immense downward, and therefore lateral, pressure on the shaft.
So what I'm thinking about is making something with:
1. A low robust and rigid table made out of angle iron.
2. a metal top to the table.
3. a 2hp motor bolted to the legs of the table.
4. a central spindle, mounted to the table top, piercing it vertically, and with a pulley on the bottom.
5. a belt between the motor and the spindle, preferable with gearing for different speeds.
6. a big wide platen on the top of the spindle - say 600mm wide. This is the bit the blank sits on.
7. a bearing race towards the outside of the table, directly supporting the platen. Probably a dozen or so bearings - maybe these : http://www.amazon.com/Bearing-6201RS.../dp/B002BBJSO0 .
The bearing race would take most of the downward force. They would need to be on adjustable shafts, so they could be raised or lowered a tiny bit to make sure all bearings are in contact with the platen. They would need to be in a circular arrangement - so the platen rides smoothly on them. They would need to be somewhere towards the perimeter of the platen - but basically at the point where they provide the most support with the least platen flex. These take most of the downward pressure, so the shaft takes very little pressure and is basically just providing turning force.
So is this idea any good, or is it rubbish ?
Arron
Anyway, a few years ago I bought an inexpensive lathe and got into wood turning. I did turning for about 6 months before giving it up - making some quite nice things - but ultimately deciding there were enough dog-bowls in the world already. The one thing I remained interested in however, which I would still like to pursue, was making some really large bowls - I guess I'm meaning 500+ millimetres across, maybe up to 800mm.
I have all sorts of ideas about large bowls which look good in my mind (probably not in practise but we will see and thats the fun of it).
Obviously you cant make something that big on an inexpensive lathe - the distance from bed to centre would stop you if nothing else.
So I'm thinking of perhaps making my own lathe.
Most of my mega-bowl ideas are not what you would call finely-featured forms. Thats good, because it steers me away from a high-precision engineering solution.
Thinking about making a lathe means going back to scratch. As I'm only interested in making a lathe suitable for very large bowls (no turning between centres stuff) I have wondered if the best solution is a vertical lathe. I did a search for vertical lathes for home-oriented wood turning on the internet with no success. This seems odd as I doubt I'm the first person to think of it.
So I guess its a lathe like a potters wheel - but larger and very much more robust as its turning very large bits of wood.
The advantages I can see are that:
1. You would be able to turn a very heavy object (subject to motor size) without gravity playing a negative role. This means you have more tolerance in terms of engineering precision, bearing quality etc. Thus it should be easier to make.
2. You could have a very wide, flat platen (the wide horizontal plate which I see the blank sitting on), which would enable you to have all sorts of holding mechanisms for these large blanks. The blank would sit on the platen with great stability.
3. There could be a safety angle. There is little risk of the blank coming loose and hurting you because its already (in a sense) fallen as far as it can.
4. There would be no limits on the size of the object you could turn, except perhaps motor power.
Out of these, point 1 is the main one. It seems to me that building a lathe to turn heavy object with a horizontal shaft is wrong, because the object is putting immense downward, and therefore lateral, pressure on the shaft.
So what I'm thinking about is making something with:
1. A low robust and rigid table made out of angle iron.
2. a metal top to the table.
3. a 2hp motor bolted to the legs of the table.
4. a central spindle, mounted to the table top, piercing it vertically, and with a pulley on the bottom.
5. a belt between the motor and the spindle, preferable with gearing for different speeds.
6. a big wide platen on the top of the spindle - say 600mm wide. This is the bit the blank sits on.
7. a bearing race towards the outside of the table, directly supporting the platen. Probably a dozen or so bearings - maybe these : http://www.amazon.com/Bearing-6201RS.../dp/B002BBJSO0 .
The bearing race would take most of the downward force. They would need to be on adjustable shafts, so they could be raised or lowered a tiny bit to make sure all bearings are in contact with the platen. They would need to be in a circular arrangement - so the platen rides smoothly on them. They would need to be somewhere towards the perimeter of the platen - but basically at the point where they provide the most support with the least platen flex. These take most of the downward pressure, so the shaft takes very little pressure and is basically just providing turning force.
So is this idea any good, or is it rubbish ?
Arron
GRW
Hi,
I have a problem when using the metal hinges on turned boxes. After a period of time they sometimes come off. I use Araldite, the glue doesn't seem to bond very good to the metal. If the hinge is stiff or the catch tight. Any suggestion to help would be welcome.
Thx
Gordon
I have a problem when using the metal hinges on turned boxes. After a period of time they sometimes come off. I use Araldite, the glue doesn't seem to bond very good to the metal. If the hinge is stiff or the catch tight. Any suggestion to help would be welcome.
Thx
Gordon
Stanley Cast Iron Bottom/base
Hi guys,
Im after a couple of Stanley Plane Base/bottom only, Cannot be smaller then a No. 4 and must have a smooth sole.
Regards,
Mark
Im after a couple of Stanley Plane Base/bottom only, Cannot be smaller then a No. 4 and must have a smooth sole.
Regards,
Mark
Shopping list to convert to CO2 MIG (well GMAW really)
OK fellas, I'm keen to make the step to 100% CO2 for my MIG welding after a couple of years on Ar/CO2/O2 mix. My current usage is just over one 'G' cylinder a year. I know there's a few posts floating around on this, but I'd appreciate a recap and some contemporary advice.
Thanks
- Mick
- What's the best deal on a CO2 cylinder? This one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Australia...item1c49e62d8f at $199 for a 6Kg version looks OK. Any better ones?
- What about refills/cylinder swaps - what's the best deal/system? I'm in Ballina northern NSW. Swap/postage pricing?
- I have a standard Argon/CO2 regulator, but I'm guessing the connector thread/size is different - where to get an adapter? online source?
Thanks
- Mick
First attempt at Roman Harvest
Hi,
I have been asked to make a wedding set by a very special friend. So I decided that I would try a different kit that suits the occasion. I have never used the Roman Harvest kit before and was immediately impressed with the weight of the kit without the timber. You can really tell the quality. I have to admit that I was filled with trepidation when I started turning the pens due to cost of each kit, but I am extremely happy with the result. I had one chip out on the last pen, but I used some shavings and some super glue to fix the hole. It worked out ok - I showed the boss and asked her to spot the flaw and she couldn't pick it.
The timbers used were hairy bark oak and some beautiful red mallee which I was so impressed with. The figuring in it is beautiful. They were sanded to 600, micromesh to 12000 and fished with EEE cut and polish and Shellawax.
Turned out really well and my friend has chosen the red mallee.
Thanks for looking.
Todd
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
I have been asked to make a wedding set by a very special friend. So I decided that I would try a different kit that suits the occasion. I have never used the Roman Harvest kit before and was immediately impressed with the weight of the kit without the timber. You can really tell the quality. I have to admit that I was filled with trepidation when I started turning the pens due to cost of each kit, but I am extremely happy with the result. I had one chip out on the last pen, but I used some shavings and some super glue to fix the hole. It worked out ok - I showed the boss and asked her to spot the flaw and she couldn't pick it.
The timbers used were hairy bark oak and some beautiful red mallee which I was so impressed with. The figuring in it is beautiful. They were sanded to 600, micromesh to 12000 and fished with EEE cut and polish and Shellawax.
Turned out really well and my friend has chosen the red mallee.
Thanks for looking.
Todd
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Moreton Bay GIS
Hi All,
It looks as if I've started to build a Goat Island skiff. Bought plans a few weeks ago - cheap enough so it wouldn't be a disaster if I decided not to build. Then I was busy calculating the cost of all the fancy wood involved (fancy by my radiata pine standards), fighting the urge to think of the cheapest near-enough substitute, when I found myself in possession of 5 western red cedar planks, bought from a large hardware chain of all places. They were calling them "decking boards" (140x40mmx3.6m), and I looked through them to find some less knotty and straight ones. Way cheap compared to buying the real thing! They say they were green, but I think they've been sitting on the rack for so long they're pretty low moisture now. So I've ripped them up last week (none of the sawdust had any dampness to it) and I glued up the rudder last night, and will glue up the centreboard blank tonight. It seems to be weighing around 400-420kg/m3 if my calculations are correct, so that's not too bad. Very tight growth rings on most of it, but some small knots here and there.
I've always wanted to build a Jarcat 6, but I don't even have a yard to build it in at the moment, let alone a nice big shed. Though I can't complain because I'm just a stone's throw from the sea where I am. I've never owned a boat, or a sail boat, but I've been windsurfing for the last 5 years, so I figure I've got a few of the principles of sailing down, even if I don't know what they're called. And there are just too many nice days that go by that aren't windy enough for windsurfing, so I somehow happened upon the GIS on the net a while ago, and it all started to make sense. I'll finally be able to sail clear across to Moreton Island, which I think of doing every time I notice it sitting quietly on the horizon. All I have to do is kick a pesky car out of the garage, and I have my build space.
Cheers,
Peter
It looks as if I've started to build a Goat Island skiff. Bought plans a few weeks ago - cheap enough so it wouldn't be a disaster if I decided not to build. Then I was busy calculating the cost of all the fancy wood involved (fancy by my radiata pine standards), fighting the urge to think of the cheapest near-enough substitute, when I found myself in possession of 5 western red cedar planks, bought from a large hardware chain of all places. They were calling them "decking boards" (140x40mmx3.6m), and I looked through them to find some less knotty and straight ones. Way cheap compared to buying the real thing! They say they were green, but I think they've been sitting on the rack for so long they're pretty low moisture now. So I've ripped them up last week (none of the sawdust had any dampness to it) and I glued up the rudder last night, and will glue up the centreboard blank tonight. It seems to be weighing around 400-420kg/m3 if my calculations are correct, so that's not too bad. Very tight growth rings on most of it, but some small knots here and there.
I've always wanted to build a Jarcat 6, but I don't even have a yard to build it in at the moment, let alone a nice big shed. Though I can't complain because I'm just a stone's throw from the sea where I am. I've never owned a boat, or a sail boat, but I've been windsurfing for the last 5 years, so I figure I've got a few of the principles of sailing down, even if I don't know what they're called. And there are just too many nice days that go by that aren't windy enough for windsurfing, so I somehow happened upon the GIS on the net a while ago, and it all started to make sense. I'll finally be able to sail clear across to Moreton Island, which I think of doing every time I notice it sitting quietly on the horizon. All I have to do is kick a pesky car out of the garage, and I have my build space.
Cheers,
Peter
Couple of Lathes
The New Visby I listed on ebay recently for a mate has been reduced and offers will be accepted.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281511930...84.m1555.l2649
The Nuttall just listed for the same mate was replaced by a CL-68 from the H&F Sale with higher speeds, DRO and metric built in.
It has been outside for only a couple of days, and can be demonstrated running.
Offers accepted.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281514999...84.m1555.l2649
Note: the mate's 3T hydraulic 1 metre shaper is still in the shed - $300 for scrap value.
The mate will soon be listing a 12" lathe vaguely similar to a Britannia I saw listed somewhere recently.
John
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281511930...84.m1555.l2649
The Nuttall just listed for the same mate was replaced by a CL-68 from the H&F Sale with higher speeds, DRO and metric built in.
It has been outside for only a couple of days, and can be demonstrated running.
Offers accepted.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281514999...84.m1555.l2649
Note: the mate's 3T hydraulic 1 metre shaper is still in the shed - $300 for scrap value.
The mate will soon be listing a 12" lathe vaguely similar to a Britannia I saw listed somewhere recently.
John
Building Licence
Hi,
was looking at going for my builder licence. I have done some unit developments with a builder and now will be doing one dual occ as owner builder to get my experience up. I am a civil engineer by trade in the road construction industry. I estimate tenders and get them built. I have been looking at how to go about it there are companies that say they will help by giving you practice multiple choice questions and develop your you application. Do these actually help has anyone done this before anyone that can help out???
I havde contacted the VBA and they are not really helpful. Can anyone shed some light.
Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...
was looking at going for my builder licence. I have done some unit developments with a builder and now will be doing one dual occ as owner builder to get my experience up. I am a civil engineer by trade in the road construction industry. I estimate tenders and get them built. I have been looking at how to go about it there are companies that say they will help by giving you practice multiple choice questions and develop your you application. Do these actually help has anyone done this before anyone that can help out???
I havde contacted the VBA and they are not really helpful. Can anyone shed some light.
Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...
Regan Tongue and Cheek
I haven't been around much for a while other than lurking but I finally got around to making a Regan style half back I had drawn up about 1-1/2 years ago now. Yes I am slow. This one is big leaf with black Mother of pearl. The initial doesn't show up very well. So still working on that. Critiques always welcome.IMG_1935_zpse5b81e72.jpgIMG_1934_zps3be7f3f7.jpg
selling off some gear
Final part of purge to rid myself of imperial.
Mitutoyo micrometer 5-6" still in plastic and the original box cover. Bought it about 10 yrs ago and mercifully never had to use it. $75
Mitutoyo internal micrometer 1-2" bought at same time as above but was used for a couple of times over a 6 month period, in storage ever since. $45
Starrett taper hole gauges. 1 set still has plastic cases VGC .100" - 1.00" $65, 2nd set no cases used but not abused but one has engravings if you're upset by those types of things. $45, last one cased .100" - .500" $30.
Rubert surface roughness comparison specimen, had this for years then it walked off so bought another this one then came back to me but the new one walked off, fortunately I was able to help it find it's way back home. Don't need two so this can go. $30
Telescopic gauges, hafco jobbies, bought to replace a set I couldn't find and as is always the case found it not long after buying these. They have been used however. $5
Kingman White mini sine. Box is rogered, little tarnishing on side, locks up nicely. The magnet will need stroking as it is a little weak but they never were that strong even when new, well certainly my other two weren't! $65
Will post.
Paypal personal okay.
Don't like those prices, make an offer.
Somes pics:
DSCF1442.jpgDSCF1444.jpgDSCF1445.jpgDSCF1446.jpgDSCF1443.jpgDSCF1447.jpg
Mitutoyo micrometer 5-6" still in plastic and the original box cover. Bought it about 10 yrs ago and mercifully never had to use it. $75
Mitutoyo internal micrometer 1-2" bought at same time as above but was used for a couple of times over a 6 month period, in storage ever since. $45
Starrett taper hole gauges. 1 set still has plastic cases VGC .100" - 1.00" $65, 2nd set no cases used but not abused but one has engravings if you're upset by those types of things. $45, last one cased .100" - .500" $30.
Rubert surface roughness comparison specimen, had this for years then it walked off so bought another this one then came back to me but the new one walked off, fortunately I was able to help it find it's way back home. Don't need two so this can go. $30
Telescopic gauges, hafco jobbies, bought to replace a set I couldn't find and as is always the case found it not long after buying these. They have been used however. $5
Kingman White mini sine. Box is rogered, little tarnishing on side, locks up nicely. The magnet will need stroking as it is a little weak but they never were that strong even when new, well certainly my other two weren't! $65
Will post.
Paypal personal okay.
Don't like those prices, make an offer.
Somes pics:
DSCF1442.jpgDSCF1444.jpgDSCF1445.jpgDSCF1446.jpgDSCF1443.jpgDSCF1447.jpg
Free to good home: Offcuts and unwanted bits of wood
samedi 29 novembre 2014
I have a lot of timber pieces that I am clearing out of the shed. Most just aren't what I need, but there are some useful pieces in amongst them all. There are some bits that would be good for pen turning, there are some that would be good for bowl turning and there are some that would make excellent stringing or inlay for a box.
They are all free!!!!
If you are interested in seeing them and perhaps picking through them, call me on 0437 742 236. I am close to Heidelberg, to give you a idea of where I am.
Regards,
Rob
They are all free!!!!
If you are interested in seeing them and perhaps picking through them, call me on 0437 742 236. I am close to Heidelberg, to give you a idea of where I am.
Regards,
Rob
Chainsaw issues
Hi Folks
I have a Sthil MS210c chainsaw and I'm having issues. When it's first started it runs ok but a few minutes work it just dies. You can re start it and it runs for maybe 20-30 seconds and then dies again. It is running on freshly mixed fuel, and just to be sure I emptied that out and put another fresh batch in with the same result.
Any ideas as to the issue?
cheers
WH
I have a Sthil MS210c chainsaw and I'm having issues. When it's first started it runs ok but a few minutes work it just dies. You can re start it and it runs for maybe 20-30 seconds and then dies again. It is running on freshly mixed fuel, and just to be sure I emptied that out and put another fresh batch in with the same result.
Any ideas as to the issue?
cheers
WH
Doubt about shutdown pc and mach3
Hello.
As i am a beginner and being the 1st time that i use my cnc for the first time to do a service in 3D using Mach3, I have a doubt ..
The work itself takes up 31 Horas be done..
I do not know if it's still lack of practice in which it could put it faster or actually takes that long...
(EndMill ball nose 3.2mm to make a dragon on a plate with 160mmx210mm)...
Can I stop the Mach3 and writhe in a paper the line where i click STOP and tomorrow reconnect everything and continue from there?
Question from a newbie ...
Beginning to learn
As i am a beginner and being the 1st time that i use my cnc for the first time to do a service in 3D using Mach3, I have a doubt ..
The work itself takes up 31 Horas be done..
I do not know if it's still lack of practice in which it could put it faster or actually takes that long...
(EndMill ball nose 3.2mm to make a dragon on a plate with 160mmx210mm)...
Can I stop the Mach3 and writhe in a paper the line where i click STOP and tomorrow reconnect everything and continue from there?
Question from a newbie ...
Beginning to learn
Aldi BBQ light
Just got an Aldi BBQ light. Flexible light stand.
Fits on the bandsaw, metal lathe and wood lathe.
:U
Fits on the bandsaw, metal lathe and wood lathe.
:U
Members near Margate QLD for possible Gumtree Collection
I know it is a bit of a long shot but I think that this forum is about chance encounters.
I am looking for a helpful member in or near Margate QLD who may be willing to collect some tapware from a Gumtree seller on my behalf. There are three items of tapware, a couple of wall mixers and a bath spout, so nothing large or heavy. After collection I would then need them posted to Adelaide.
I would obviously cover postage costs and the costs associated with the member helping me out.
If you may be able to assist please PM me or post back here and I will make contact.
Cheers
Michael
I am looking for a helpful member in or near Margate QLD who may be willing to collect some tapware from a Gumtree seller on my behalf. There are three items of tapware, a couple of wall mixers and a bath spout, so nothing large or heavy. After collection I would then need them posted to Adelaide.
I would obviously cover postage costs and the costs associated with the member helping me out.
If you may be able to assist please PM me or post back here and I will make contact.
Cheers
Michael
Why do sellers try to avoid making a sale?
I have been looking recently on Gumtree, particularly for sanitary ware for our planned extension which if you are patient you can often pick up new items at a good price.
What has been astonishing is how hard sellers often make it to purchase off them. In addition to poor quality photos and limited descriptions sellers seem unable to answer simple questions.
I have lost count of the times that I have emailed somebody to say I want to purchase an item and request their address and preferred pickup time only to have the response come back with only the time or only the address, leading to the need to make contact again. My responses are articulate and shouldn't appear like spam, I don't write "I want your item and will pay more cash provide your bank and I pay".
On Thursday I contacted a guy to ask if he would be willing to post 3 items he had for sale. I mentioned I would post up three Australia Post satchels, self addressed so all he would have to do is drop them off in a post box (no visit to the post office needed). I know the item can easily be sent in a 3kg satchel. I said if he was happy to do that he should send me his details so I could make payment and send up the satchels. His response was (a day later) was that he would be happy to post but would need to get the items weighed and was concerned that the cost if postage would make the purchase unviable. I got back in touch again after an hour and said I was happy to pay for the goods & postage, confirmed again that they can be sent in a satchel and all I needed was details on how he wanted to be paid. Still no response.
If I was the seller I would be bending over backwards for a sale. This guy has the opportunity to get rid of three items in one hit. No negotiations on price, no need to wait around for somebody to collect from his house. No risk as the items would be paid for prior to him putting them in a post box.
I would have thought that if you had the skills to list an item on Gumtree (with a photo) then it wouldn't be too difficult to negotiate the details to complete a sale.
Rant Off
Cheers
Stinky
What has been astonishing is how hard sellers often make it to purchase off them. In addition to poor quality photos and limited descriptions sellers seem unable to answer simple questions.
I have lost count of the times that I have emailed somebody to say I want to purchase an item and request their address and preferred pickup time only to have the response come back with only the time or only the address, leading to the need to make contact again. My responses are articulate and shouldn't appear like spam, I don't write "I want your item and will pay more cash provide your bank and I pay".
On Thursday I contacted a guy to ask if he would be willing to post 3 items he had for sale. I mentioned I would post up three Australia Post satchels, self addressed so all he would have to do is drop them off in a post box (no visit to the post office needed). I know the item can easily be sent in a 3kg satchel. I said if he was happy to do that he should send me his details so I could make payment and send up the satchels. His response was (a day later) was that he would be happy to post but would need to get the items weighed and was concerned that the cost if postage would make the purchase unviable. I got back in touch again after an hour and said I was happy to pay for the goods & postage, confirmed again that they can be sent in a satchel and all I needed was details on how he wanted to be paid. Still no response.
If I was the seller I would be bending over backwards for a sale. This guy has the opportunity to get rid of three items in one hit. No negotiations on price, no need to wait around for somebody to collect from his house. No risk as the items would be paid for prior to him putting them in a post box.
I would have thought that if you had the skills to list an item on Gumtree (with a photo) then it wouldn't be too difficult to negotiate the details to complete a sale.
Rant Off
Cheers
Stinky
Screws for drawer fronts
I'm looking for washer head Phillips screws, 25 and 28mm long, for attaching false fronts to some drawer boxes I've made. I can only find them from US-based suppliers e.g. Woodcraft. Does anyone know of a source for these here in Australia? The closest I've been able to find here are these.
Thx, Greg
Thx, Greg
building front stairs
a very very long time ago I saw some pics of front stairs being built. It's now time to do ours on a Queenslander but having no luck doing searches, can anyone help out please. CHEERS
The doors of oak
Me and my son is the first time we've done one of these type of doors in our small workshop...
FullSizeRender-2.jpgFotografija0750.jpgFotografija0746.jpgFotografija0758.jpgFotografija0774.jpg
FullSizeRender-2.jpgFotografija0750.jpgFotografija0746.jpgFotografija0758.jpgFotografija0774.jpg
Startrite CF350M Circular Metal Sawing Machine.
I have been given a 1980's Startrite saw (similar to a Brobo Saw) for nothing because the vice is broken/worn rendering the whole machine useless, pictures of the actual machine to follow. The machine itself is really quite good although it has suffered more from abuse than anything else where inexperienced operators that did not set the depth stop for the head properly. The saw blade was allowed to partially cut into the vice jaws to a point where one jaw casting was weakened so much that it broke and the other jaw is almost ready to go. The twin screw and nuts are also stripped.
The old screw with the partially complete new screw. The old one was made out of mild steel, the new version is 4140.
DSC01244.jpg
Cutting the right hand 28 x 5mm Trapezoidal on my Colchester Master, it was a pleasure to cut on this machine despite what some people say about them, very user friendly.
DSC01242.jpg
The right hand thread end done.
DSC01245.jpg
End view of the right and left hand tools.
DSC01247.jpg
Top view of tools.
DSC01248.jpg
The old screw with the partially complete new screw. The old one was made out of mild steel, the new version is 4140.
DSC01244.jpg
Cutting the right hand 28 x 5mm Trapezoidal on my Colchester Master, it was a pleasure to cut on this machine despite what some people say about them, very user friendly.
DSC01242.jpg
The right hand thread end done.
DSC01245.jpg
End view of the right and left hand tools.
DSC01247.jpg
Top view of tools.
DSC01248.jpg
Olfaction - Finishes so good they should be released as a cologne
For a long time now I have held Ubeaut's traditional wax in high esteem when it comes to my olfactory receptors. Today however, it was time for an old king to regain the throne.
After being hidden at the back of the shelf for a number of years, I prised open the lid on one of the best smelling finishes going around the sheds of Australia. As the lid was forced free from the solidified liquid that had entombed the magic, I was instantly transformed back in time. Memories of past woodshows sprung to mind as soon as the odour was detected by my olfactory neceptor neurons and they transmitted the information to the olfactory bulbs.
The finish of course is Organoil Hard Burnishing Oil. This is one finish that should be released as a cologne for the woodworking man. The best thing is that I applied the finish to the project inside so I have been able to enjoy the lingering smell around the kitchen all afternoon. :pig:
Health warning - don't sniff finishes.
After being hidden at the back of the shelf for a number of years, I prised open the lid on one of the best smelling finishes going around the sheds of Australia. As the lid was forced free from the solidified liquid that had entombed the magic, I was instantly transformed back in time. Memories of past woodshows sprung to mind as soon as the odour was detected by my olfactory neceptor neurons and they transmitted the information to the olfactory bulbs.
The finish of course is Organoil Hard Burnishing Oil. This is one finish that should be released as a cologne for the woodworking man. The best thing is that I applied the finish to the project inside so I have been able to enjoy the lingering smell around the kitchen all afternoon. :pig:
Health warning - don't sniff finishes.
Finished low loader and 3 colourful trucks
Hi,
Have finished the low loader and truck. Looks pretty good I reckon.
Today my boys helped me make 3 very colourful trucks. Blue for Michael, yellow for
Luke and red for my niece Gracie.
They love the trucks.
Todd
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Have finished the low loader and truck. Looks pretty good I reckon.
Today my boys helped me make 3 very colourful trucks. Blue for Michael, yellow for
Luke and red for my niece Gracie.
They love the trucks.
Todd
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
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