Metabo KSE 55 Vario Plus

dimanche 31 mai 2015

Hi there.

There's not much said about this saw on the net, but I have noticed the odd mention of it within the pages of this forum, so I thought I'd ask to see if anyone had any hands on experience with it.

I was ideally after a plunge saw, but only for personal use really. I'm a plumber by trade so it might get some use there, but more so for a project I want to build and any future tasks I may have. I see a plunge saw and rail a better method over a circular saw and a V shaped notch, this particular saw is no Festool, that I'm fully aware of, and I haven't personally any experience of Metabo myself, but believe they have a fairly high regard.

I notice this saw is trying to carry out two tasks, but two tasks which aren't worlds apart. I was wondering if it was a jack of all, master of none type product, or if it holds it's own and it fairly accurate and friendly to use.

Any pro's or con's would be great.


Timber & Working with Wood Show - Adelaide

when is the next Timber & Working with Wood Show scheduled for Adelaide


QLD WANTED: Nail puller

Wanted: nail puller with jaw that clamps as it's used (like the one in he pic) - NOT the fixed claw type. Astoundingly can't see one for sale in any major retail outlet in Brisbane
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Festool OF1010 and shelf pins

Hi, longish lurker.
Have a question about doing shelf pin holes without the LR32 set.

I just bought a Woodhaven shelf pin jig from Amazon thattakes a 3/8 OD bit. I currently have anOF1010. Will the Leigh 704R guidebushadaptor and the 3/8” OD guide bush be the parts I need to make this work? http://ift.tt/1PYfG3g
Cheers


Race cars

Got the design of the cars to my liking.
Made eleven more.
Ten to sell one for myself.
The ones to sell are made of cherry and maple.
The one for me is made out of curly cherry and curly walnut.
The curly material is leftovers from a customer job.
The customer supplied the wood and i got any leftovers.
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Sargent 1085 as a user

Hi,
One of these combination planes had come onto my radar and it looks really nice.
Has anyone used one and could compare it to say, a Stanley 50 for ease of use and results? I have a Record 050 and Stanley 13-050. If it is a good user, I would most likely sell the Record to help raise the capital!
I am really interested in it not just to use but from an aesthetics point of view as well. I may not be able to afford it but wanted to know more about what it is like to use from you who may have used it.
Any comments appreciated


Small projects

Hi All,

Been a while since i shared anything on the forums so I thought that it might be nice to post some pictures of my latest little project. I've been running out of things to make since the house is covered in wood furniture now but then i noticed that our medicine box is a crappy ikea cardboard job so a new project was started. I got my hands on some nice redgum with the idea to resaw it on the bandy. Little did i realise the trouble this would be later. Anyway the 170x40 was resawn to 170 x 12(ish)....all good until i realised that what was previously a perfectly square piece of wood was holding some radial tension that resulted in some convex 170x12 boards. It wasn't too drastic so i just pushed on with the view that i would account for that when gluing. It was also at that stage that i realised that redgum doesn't plane very nicely, even with a freshly sharpened blade (to 8000g) and a very shallow cut. The alternating grain was a pain so out came the belt sander. As you can imagine the result was not pretty with some decent variance in thickness, not ideal but again i pushed on.

Anyway i managed to use my Mathias Wandel like finger joint jig on my router table to get some fairly tight 1/4in fingers for the corners and then butchered my way to fit the top into a 5mm rabbet also done on the router table (i don't have a table saw which would have been really handy for that). The result was a so so fit and a lot more time than it should have taken but i'm reasonably happy with the result. Oh and the insert was just a bit of fun with the chisels, note the tearout from the ever frustrating redgum again. The sanding was down to 360g and the finish is a couple of coats of F&W Scandinavian Oil.

Cheers
Mat

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Turning on a treadle Lathe

Recently I started a new job Horsham , Victoria. This placed me near a new wood club. "Wimmera Woodturners Guild" (or something to that effect).

Last weekend they had an open day and I mentioned I had an old freadle lathe. rhey asked if I would bring it along and demonstrate. I did. This picture made rhe local paper close to an A5 size pic

uploadfromtaptalk1433115971359.jpg

Like many of my 15 plus lathes I have barely used this one previously. I was smart enough to ask for some soft timber.

Was on it for much of 6 hours and by the end of the day was making little drumsticks to give to the kids

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art
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Angels Baseball Game

A long story and should have been done years ago.

The Los Angeles Angels of Anaheim are a MLB (Major League Baseball) team here in California. A neighbor had season tickets to the Angels that particular season. Unfortunately, he was unable to attend the game and fortunately gave us the three tickets. I tried to find a third to attend the game bus was unsuccessful.

As we approached the entry gate for the Angels stadium, I offered the extra ticket to a gentleman taking what appeared to be his grandchildren to the game. As it turned out, he was unable to exchange the ticket for one for his grandchildren and gave the ticket to someone else.

As it turned out, the final recipient of the ticket was sitting next to SWMBO. They struck up a conversation and as it turned out, the recipient of the ticket was from Australia. SWMBO never mentioned this to me until recently.

The really stupid question that I have is: Did it happen to be anyone of you blokes? I know that the planet is small but I have to ask.


QLD Southern Silky Oak blanks for Turning

Offering 25 Southern Silky Oak blanks
25 x 60mm x 60mm x 900mm (average)
Asking $75 the lot ($3 each)
Too many to post so pick up only...MM:2tsup:
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More Buddha stuff

White Beech, gold leaf. After a Gandharan fragment

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Advice on Restoring 3 Russian Folk Guitars

Hi Everyone,

I recently acquired 3 Russian folk guitars in an auction. All have various age related wear and tear issues and one has the headstock snapped from the neck. I'd like to restore them to use mainly as decoration pieces, but I'd like to be able to restore them to a playable condition as well.

1st guitar, a balalaika. The tuning pegs, bridge and tail piece are missing. One panel on the back is lifted and another is removed. The head stock is broken off the neck, with old filler and a nail protruding from the break where a previous repair was attempted. I looks quite old and hand made.
g1_front.jpgg1_back.jpgg1_neck.jpg


2nd guitar, 7 string folk guitar. From my research, made in Odessa Ukraine, these were mass produced, solid, cheap and plentiful. By no means, a rare find. Its the first one I've seen, so its rare to me. It has some issues. The bridge is lifting, the neck has wood removed around the adjuster. It looks like the key to adjust it was not effective, so it was bored out to get bigger tools in there to adjust the neck.
g2_bridge.jpgg2_neck.jpgg2_front.jpg

3rd guitar, 7 string folk guitar. This looks a real gem. I think it is also hand made, probably in Germany because the metal tailpiece has Patent Protected stamped in German print. The binding is separating in many places, there are cracks in the timber on the front, back and sides. The neck has a replaced section which looks pretty ugly. The bridge is also damaged around the floating fretboard section. This one requires the most work and I think it is the most valuable out of the 3.
g3_back.jpgg3_front.jpgg3_neck.jpg

I'm not an accomplished work worker. Most projects I undertake are metal orientated, not wood. But I've been doing more wood work around the house and I'm developing a keen interest. I've been interested for many years to undertake a guitar construction project, but then thought a restoration project might be a better place to start.

I'm not planning to rush these restorations. I'll do just one at a time and I'll be seeking a lot of guidance from some of the expects out there on the internet. The first thing is to make contact with some folks who are experienced in restoring old instruments, which brings me to this forum.

I'd like to get some guidance on the approach I should be taking. How far should I take the restoration. Someone has advised me to use replacement timber that stands out so you can obviously see it's a repair and not trying to fake the original product. I've also been advised to keep the original finish, not to revarnish. It would be good to get some feedback and ideas from the forum.

Thanks

Phil
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Eureka Canoe in Standard U.S. Lumber Sizes

Hello All,

I've searched the site and can't find that anyone has posted the U.S. lumber equivalents for the BoM. Plywood is 1/4 inch, but after doing a simple metric to imperial conversion, I doubt I'll find lumber in 1.8" x 0.6" on the shelf at my local lumber yard. I haven't the facility for ripping, so I'm hoping someone has worked out the U.S. standard lumber sizes to use.

Thanks!

Richard


sharpening pmv11 vs o1

could someone give me a run down on the differences between the pmv11 and o1 blades from a sharpening perspective?


O1 is what i am used to, does pmv11 require different stones, or just a different technique?


Help me design my shed

I've finally pulled the trigger on a house (my first). I've been renting for years, and while fortunate to have a shed, it has not been ideal - it leaks, has open eaves, is dusty and everything rusts!

The place I've bought is in Newcastle, on a 490m2 block. It's a nice double brick place.

So now the important part starts - planning the shed.

The yard is a nice size, but not large, so I can't have a big shed unfortunately. At present I'm thinking of utilising 'exempt development' where tool or garden sheds up to 20m2 do not require a development approval. This would speed the process and mean I don't have to spend money on red tape, I can buy tools instead. At present I'm investigating whether having fixed wiring and things like that would exempt it from being exempt...
I'm also thinking of constructing the shed. Though I'm thinking of getting the slab done by a professional.

My current shed is a single car garage (width) though it is a fair bit longer. While I'd like a huge shed with a central bench I can get around all sides, that's not going to happen, so I think a bit thinner and longer is probably better, as it means less space 'lost' in the middle.

Options floor size wise:
5x4m
6x3.3m (erring towards this sort of shape)
6.67x3m (think this is too narrow)

Purpose
I do both metal and woodwork.
I've build a 1200x600mm CNC wood router
I've got a benchtop metal mill and lathe

Structure
Slab - 100mm thick. Toying with the idea of putting some PEX down for slab heating - I just think it's a really neat idea.
Timber frame
Double door at garden end.
Possibly single door with window towards house end.

Cladding
Inside
Planning on 12-18mm plywood or oriented strand board (OSB)
Considering prefinished plywood - white laminate?

Outside
I'm considering corrugated sheeting, run horizontally. Possibly mini-orb if the price is not tooooo bad
However, noise sealing is a significant consideration for me. So I was thinking of using a flat sheet cladding then the corro essentially for aesthetic cover.

Insulation
Noise insulation is probably the priority.
Suggestions?

Look
I want it to be somewhat sympathetic with the house. A kit shed would be cheaper and quicker but fails this criterion and doesn't pass the SWMBO test.
Thinking of corrugated sheet, run horizontally.
Timber frame windows.
Ideally I want to end up with something I'll be happy to use for 5-10 years, then when I sell the house, the shed can be seen as a good shed, or possibly a small studio / den for the mad people who don't want a shed.

Organisation
I've been inspired by a thread at garagejournal and am planning to use french cleats extensively.

Location:
At present I'm thinking of putting it on the right hand side of the photo below, replacing the patio structure (BBQ area) with the corro panels.
Back.jpg

A shot from the deck - the shed would be on the left. I don't want it to dominate the area. I would have some plants along the side.
Deck.jpg

View back towards the house - there is a toilet window, and an existing store room (small but functional) - I'm thinking having the shed sitting a meter or so off the back wall, leaving a passage way, would be ok.
DeckBack.jpg
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Pop Top Caravan renovation

Hello All

Is there any interest in a caravan RESTO and modification

ray


What do we call it

While viewing various pen turning You Tube Videos, and tutorials on the Forum, I often see and hear an item used to apply polish eg. Minwax etc, called SHOP TOWEL. I think this is an American terminology for a particular disposable cloth. Does anyone know what it is called in AUSTRALIA, or even if it's available. I asked this question at Bunnings and the look I received was if I had just arrived from another planet. Appreciate any advice.


How Do You Get This Finish?

The attached photo are items turned by Richard Raffan. The finish is verdigris and the inner red is red acrylic paint.

I know nothing about the verdigris finish but a quick search on the 'net indicates it could be a Liberon wax.

Does anyone know more? What product goes beneath the verdigris?
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QLD Wanted trailer

Looking to buy a cheap second hand trailer. 8x5 preferably but will look at 6x4. Will travel to Brisbane or Northern Rivers to pick up provided price is good. If you have one or know someone who does send me a PM


nuts and bolts ???

Hi guys,
Had another play with the thread chasers today !
Turned out not too bad i think, just a practice piece
and a bit of fun too!
I gave it to the grandson to play with and he took it home :C:C
Oh,,,, well back to the threads next weekend.
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One more in Tiger-myrtle

After making Luke's saws in Tiger myrtle, I swore it would be a cold night in hell before I tackled another saw handle in that wood! It's great stuff when you finally get there, but it takes so much scraping & sanding to get a flawless surface on the wretched stuff! I must be suffering short-term memory loss, because I finally got around to making a new saw for myself, this weekend, and what do you think I chose for a handle? :doh

I wanted a small-ish tenon saw for those in-between jobs that are a bit big for my much-loved dovetail saw. The next choice up has been the 14" 10tpi beast that is perfect for things like bench legs, but a bit clumsy on finer stuff, so I thought something about 10 inches and toothed at 12 tpi would fit the bill nicely. I was casting about for something a bit special for the handle & my eye lighted on the small scrap of Tiger Myrtle left over from Luke's set, so I placed my handle template on it, & in the excitement of seeing that it just fitted, I completely forgot my vow to avoid it for a while. :roll:

Well, it hadn't gotten any easier than the last time. It's not a terribly hard wood, & not at all difficult to shape with rasps, etc, but it's got to be one of the worst woods for retaining scratches from rasps, files or sandpaper that I've ever struck. It took me the usual 30-40 minutes to rough-shape it, then practically all afternoon to get a finish on it. But eventually I got there, and it does look spectacular - I'm quite pleased with the result: Tenon 250mm 12tpi.jpg

Its vital statistics: 250mm x 75mm, 0.45mm (0.02") plate, 12tpi with 7 degrees negative rake and very slight (<5 degrres) fleam angle. Ony had a chance for a few test cuts, but it's performing nicely, so I think it's a keeper.... :U

Cheers,
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Would you call this discrimination?

I walked into a shop in Melbourne's western suburbs today.

I saw a sign on the wall that read:

"Female staff required for Ramadan - Arabic speakers preferred"

Is that discrimination?

Compare it with a supermarket advertising for "Female English-speaking staff required for Easter".

And the stupid thing is that if they were bright enough to write the sign in Arabic, then the rest of us would not even know about it.

Cheers

Doug


Southern Silky Oak logs

We recently dropped 6 Southern Silky Oak Trees, Grevillea Robusta. The logs are straight and around 6.5m in length, sizes as follows 1x500diam, 1x400diam, 3x300diam, 1x250diam.
Here for the taking if anyone wants them, pick up Moorooka. They are in the back yard, accessible to a ute and trailer, plenty of room for turning. They were dropped about 3 months ago and have been in shade all the time.
Cheers


Seeking Electrician Inner North Melbourne For Wiring A VFD & 3 Phase Motor

As I do not want to electrocute myself and or burn down my workshop so I am Seeking an Electrician in the Inner North of Melbourne who can wire up a Variable Frequency Drive & 3 Phase Motor for me.

I have called a few local Electricians in my area and they have no interest or no idea about wiring up a Variable Frequency Drive with a 3 Phase Motor.

Does anyone know who could and who is willing to do this job for me?


Avacardo bowl

I was given some avacardo and today was its day. This was 3 branches.
it ended up 240 diameter and 115 deep. It's had 2 coats of shellac.
Sorry 2 photos are upside down.
Thanks for looking.
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ACT 4 woodworking books - old, but FREE

Free to a good home... or not good, doesn't really matter.

= Woodturning by Stephen Hogbin
= Modern Wood Turning by Gordon Stokes
= Woodworking and Carpentry by Haines and Smith
= The Woodworkers Handbook - London College of Furniture

Must take them all, one go. Pickup or via discount courier OK (E-GO.com.au).

I'll wait a day or so, otherwise its off to the Great Recycler Muncher.

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Here is a picture of a kitten to make you happier.

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Wedding names finished

samedi 30 mai 2015

Just finished these for a wedding , I ended up painting them in a ivory colour by air brush ,the overall length of these is 4 foot & the centre piece is from a Steve Good pattern .I used a sticker from the craft shop for the wording & if recycling Kiwi is looking in I have been trying to reply to your message through the forum but I cant seem to master how to do it,maybe a private E- mail would work Cheers Peter


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Tale of a Talysurf 10

Last weekend i went to a garage sale at a engine re builders that was closing down. I didn't think there would be much there I would be interested in, but as i walked in the door I saw a talysurf 10 on the bench. I had a chat to the owner and the said it worked but it needed a new stylus that was easy to replace. I had a quick look at it and thought it looked ok, so i made an offer and he accepted it.
IMG_0786 (800x600).jpgIMG_0787 (800x600).jpgIMG_0788 (800x600).jpg
It consists of 3 parts the readout in the first pic, the probe in the 2nd, which attaches to the traverse unit in the 3rd. The unit is for measuring surface profile which includes surface roughness and also larger deviations from flatness like waviness. I'll scan the pages out of the manual and post later, that will explain it better than i can. when i got it home i started playing with it and discovered that the stylus was actually broken:C. I thought that this model had an interchangeable stylus but it doesn't, its part or the whole reader head. Replacement cost $1000+:o. i Think i will try to glue the stylus back on. To be continued............
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More Canada.... And some USAke

Sorry still no photos!!!

We had a brilliant time in Vancouver and Whister before setting off on the Canada Rail trip to Jasper throgh the Rockies . Superb Scenery and some interesting people to talk too.

Thought the scenery from th train was something until we took the coach from Jasper to Lake Louise along the Icefield Parkway!!! i have never seen scenery like this!! Every inch is a postcard, except you get it all in three dimensions. Got to walk on a glacier, something I had never anticipated doing during my stay on earth.

Lake louiseis every bt as spectacular as you would think and then some.

Off to Banff,just another gorgeous place. Couple of nights there and thence to Calgary,a spreadout city on the edge of the praries and a boom town because of Alberta's abundant oil and gas reserves.

Took a trip up to Drumheller to the dinosaur museum and then onto Red Deer. back to Calgary wher we stayed with a great couple who were originally from Jamaica. brian and I wereable totalk cricket Nd he personally knew many of the WI greats as he and his brother had gone to school with them. Great bloke and his wife was just as pleaseant to know.

Onto Buffalo via Chicago.O'Hare International Airport must surely be one of the workst airports on th planet!!!!!!

Have spent three great days in Bhuffalo with Ana's American family from when she was an exchange student.

Off to new York tomorrow then Philidelphia and Penn State Industries. Thence to Anapolis and onto NewOrleans.

Progress report later.

Cheers al and I hope al are well.


Chassis clamps

Hi

I just bought a used Triton 2000 and found that the chassis clamps to hold the saw in place just slide on off, no thread hold whatsoever.

I read that somebody re-tapped them for a larger screw, and wanted to ask if i could use the screw itself as a tap as i do not have a tap and die set.

Or is there a better solution?

thanks Arif


jpg grid pattern diagram to dxf format and cut

http://youtu.be/Bd3mV8RnIyg showing a grid pattern diagram digitized and cut out
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How does this work ? Micrometer Carriage Stop.

H, Im just wanting to know how these work ?
Is it a matter of making sure your belt slips when the saddle meets the stop?

Are they a handy thing to rely on ?

Rob
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