3801 steam loco

3801 won't mean much unless you are a steam train enthusiast, or a steam whisperer, I'm guilty.

3801 is a famous steam loco originating in NSW, it's basically a standard loco clad with stream lining panels.

There's a great Youtube video here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OInd_WCd3qQ It's a little slow to get started, but well worth watching.

I wanted to be there when the driver cooked eggs and bacon on a shovel, shovel washed first of course.

Somewhere on Youtube is a great video of 3801 travelling from Sydney to Perth, and I can't find it again.

The train traveled all that way with some diesel assistance part of the way.

If you have a link to that video, I would appreciate it.

Ken


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I've been thinking...

With the move to a separate piece of virtual real estate I've been thinking about the structure of the forum. It's a bit spread out and some sections are not really getting much use. With that in mind I would like to suggest a few changes. You may all hate these ideas in which case say so (nicely). On the other hand you may wish to suggest other changes in which case let's here them. If you agree with what is being suggested then please say so. The structure won't be changed unless there is solid support for it so we need to make our thoughts clear (I should point out I haven't run this past any Mods - the first thing they usually say is what do others think, so I'm trying to find out).
I would hope that if we can consolidate a few sub-forums we can get a bit more happening in them; perhaps even generate some more activity. Most of the structure was based on that in WWF but now that we are not co-located we can do a bit of pruning.
Here is a mud map -
Mudmap (Large).jpg
Running through the changes,

• Metalwork announcements becomes announcements and is moved to Forum and members help
• The Foundry and The Smithy is consolidated into a single sub forum I've called 'Hot stuff' - mainly to get more of a critical mass
• I would like to split the main forum (Metalwork forum) into two pieces. One called that (or perhaps General) and one called Metal Projects. The only thing allowed in Metal projects would be projects that have a specific outcome - whether that be restoration, repair or make from new. Everything else would stay in the General forum, so say questions about insert tips are General, but if you are going to show others how you made the holders, that is a metal project.
• The Hercus area would be split either into General or Metal projects, depending what is being done. They are nice guys really, so there is no reason to keep them in isolation...
• Trailers and other fabrications I think should be put into Welding - welding and fabrication usually go hand in hand and right now there is a fabulous boat fabrication going on in welding. Lots of the guys there are really knowledgeable on welding too, so it's probably not a bad match
• School forum - that's a carry over from WWF but I'd like to think if there is a General or Projects section we can cater for that. Do we need it as separate?
• I'd incorporate the Antique and vintage machinery sub forum into the Metal work forums - it's an orphan and having it where people can see it would probably give it a bit more use. Restorations could go in Projects, more general stuff (photos, film clips, requests for information) could stay under that listing
• Auto restoration I'd regard as a Metal project and so include it in that sub forum
• Auto parts I would team with the Marketplace subforums
• Other stuff/ conversions and calculations. Not sure about that one either. Another carry over but not really all that useful because of the differences between WW and MW. If a pattern is needed it can be either in the General forum or Metal Projects - perhaps as a sticky. Get rid of it?

Anyway, those are my thoughts. The last time I suggested changing things I was called all sorts of things so I'd prefer not to repeat that experience. If it is a bad idea then just say so but I think it has merit and I would like to think that if we consolidate in a smart sort of way it will make the forum easier to navigate and more interesting. It might be easier to moderate too and may attract additional volunteers to moderate (I might even be tempted, tyrannical despot that I am...)

Michael
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"Lefty"

Ok guys what's a good glove?

I've tried a few, Boc brand...currently using, not to bad but my knuckles are copping it. Also used the blue brand most shops sell and even the $5 special that went up in smoke straight away.
Also the reflective shield from Boc gets the thumbs down or knuckles burnt which ever way you want to look at it.

Something like the tig finger material would be good. Maybe wrap my glove with some exhaust wrap?

Has any one found a good glove? Dosnt have to be all that comfortable as its only to steady the mig gun. I use a tig glove on the right hand.


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Handsaw hang angles.

Continued from: http://ift.tt/1KOvRLa

Cheap router bits

Needed to machine 96 holes for dowels. I needed them to be 8mm but couldn't buy a 8mm spiral upcut, downcut or end cutting bit. I had a 1/2" spiral upcut so I bought a cheap 8mm straight cut 2 fluted tungsten bit.
Test run done and the dowel was loose, loose, loose:~

Measured the cheap bit.

IMG_1016.jpg

Measured the hole

IMG_1024.jpg

Not only was the router bit oversize, the cutters were off centre as the machined hole was bigger.

Ordered a "proper" 8mm bit and measured that.

IMG_1018.jpg

Glad I test cut before machining the 96 holes:rolleyes:

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Polyurethane glue under NC Lacquer

Its been a while since I have done much woodworking, but I have been asked to build a smallish table.

The only fresh glue I have is some polyurethane glue, I have never used this type of glue for furniture joints before.
I did a mock-up of one of the leg and rail joints this afternoon and glued it to test how it will look. There is glue foaming up and spewing out of the joint.
I am a bit worried that the glue might show up under the finish when I spray the NC Lacquer.

The legs are Blackbean, so it has an open grain that will hold a bit of glue, I don't think I will be able to sand it all off.

Can anyone tell me if they have used this glue before with a NC Lac finish, and were there any problems.
Or should I look at other options, e.g.. polyurethane finish.

Collets to suit Triton TRA001 Router

This listing is for a set of collets and adapter to suit the older model Triton TRA001 routers that originally were supplied with only the 1/2" collet.

It is a Buy It Now price.

This set comprises a dedicated 1/4" collet, a 1/2" collet and the adaptor piece. It is a superior set up which the later model Tritons are supplied with from the the box. This modification was considered essential, but the components used to be in short supply and were not always easily obtainable.

These pieces are used and were from my old Triton, which burnt out. The new model already has these collects so I have no need of them. They are in good order (It was the router that expired.)

Please ask any questions and postage will be at the buyers expense. Probably fits easily into a 500g postbag, but ask for a postage quote if unsure.

Triton TRA001 005.jpgTriton TRA001 002.jpgTriton TRA001 003.jpgTriton TRA001 004.jpg

Payment by direct bank transfer unless otherwise agreed.

Regards
Paul

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Daylight robbery

There's a lot of really generous blokes on this form, so I have to thank forum member Argeng for dropping off a Flymo electric mower this morning.

It wasn't working as the lead had been cut and sort of patched up. At this point I should state that I have a high front fence, and can't see my nature strip.

With the mower on the nature strip, I went inside to grab a multimeter, and on my return a minute later, the mower was gone. Some bathplug nicked it!

Can you believe that, "Gone in 60 seconds".

I'm half kiddin, I wouldn't be that stupid.........and don't bother commenting.

In reality, I went over the mower and found the motor to be open circuit, presumably burnt out. Googling Flymo revealed that in almost every case of failure, it was a burnt out motor.

Reluctantly I placed the mower on my nature strip, and half an hour later, it was someone else's treasure.

Thanks Argeng anyway, it was a kind deed just the same.

Ken


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Suitable adhesive for bonding aand jioning Melamine faced particle board

I understand in the commercial cabinet field a special adhesive is used when joining Melamine faced Particle Board when assembling Cabinet Carcasses. That is when joining melamine faces to particle board edges as would occur at vertical and horizontal joints.
Can any one advise what the adhesive they generaly use.
I understand Bostic market a product for the industry.
Cheers
Malcolm Eaton

Brace to id

During a major clean-out of my shed, I came across this old brace that I inherited from my father. He'd had it since before I was born, but other than being sure it is >70 years old, I have no other information. At some point, the handle must've had an accident, because when I got it, the old pot had attached a rather crude new one, made out of some unidentifiable hardwood. It was neither pretty nor particularly functional, being rather rough & splintery, so I figured he wouldn't mind if I replaced the handle with something a little more like an original in shape, at least. That meant I needed to replace the cap bun, of course, to keep the wood matched. I didn't feel too bad about discarding the original, which was a pretty damaged bit of heavily-stained (northern hemisphere) Beech - it looks ok from the top, but it has been split & poorly repaired at some stage, and has numerous (loose) screw-holes : Re-wooded brace.jpg

I tried hard to make the handle join invisible - it is ok (accentuated in the pic), but not invisible, as I'd hoped: Handle.jpg

I studied the handles on several other braces & none of them have a join, so I presume the handles are turned in one piece and attached before the final bend was made? Can't see any other way they could have done it.

Can anyone identify the breed of this brace (Boringeoff?)? There is no no legible maker's name or any logo that I can see after a fairly thorough search & moderate cleaning, but maybe the chuck & gears are characteristic enough that a brace afficionado can put a brand on it? Chuck.jpg

The ratchet mechanism is in remarkably good shape, but the jaws are quite worn & don't close all the way. However they close well enough to hold standard bits, so there is plenty of life in the old dog yet....

Cheers,

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Look what I found in my firewood pile!!

Walking past my firewood pile I spied a large Copperhead sunning itself. Unbelievably, at the same moment a large frog came hopping by. Sad but quick! The snake then slid back into the wood pile where I snapped this shot.

Now my issue is that 2 fellow Forum members are due at my place next weekend to sift through the logs to see what treasures they may find. What is the right thing to do? Should I tell them about the snake or run a book on which one of them jumps the highest and runs the fastest???

OK OK, just joking, of course I'll do the right thing.....

Even odds
Who's in????

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Scented Timbers.

A couple of weeks ago our son asked me to send him a list of scented timbers - don't ask me why, but here is a brief list:

Camphor Laurel, Cypress pine, Sandalwood, False Sandalwood, Raspberry Jam, Boree (smells like violets), Wilga (smells like dried Bananas)

Huon pine, King Billy Pine, some of the cedars - true cedars and that's where I ran out of ideas.

Any additions would be greatly appreciated.:U

NOW, today I was cutting some older Hoop pine that has just a little blue mould in some parts and, to my surprise, I could smell cooking mushrooms!!
My wife could even smell this where she was standing up on the deck.

A Question About Pouring Cast Iron

Screenshot.jpgOver on the woodwork forum, someone recently posted links to Matthias Burger's Youtube Channel. The subject of most of his videos is traditional 15th Century Wood Framed House renovation woodworking and renovating and using late 1800s and early 1900s woodworking machinery.

However, two of his videos address making a wooden casting die, and then pouring some cast iron wheels. The following is the link to the "Casting an Iron Wheel" video.

So - now the question. At the 7 minute 56 second point in the Casting an Iron Wheel video, just as the liquid cast iron is poured from the furnace into a big ladle, the ladle operator tips a cup of something into the liquid cast iron mix. The image at left is taken from that moment in the video. Does anyone know what would have been added at that point, and why ?

Thanks,

RoyG
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