Simile inspired spiral

lundi 31 mars 2014

Well I saw your WIP and I thought 'yeah, I could try that!'



So off to find some timber. There is some stuff cut down around Christmas and carefully racked, waned dipped and painted to stop checking ...... Not







Guess I better cut a piece







That was too long. Where's the saw switch







I think they call this stuff privet, let's mount it











Cuts nice







I thought strings like this shooting off the chisel clear across the room only happened in America



TBC







Dave the turning cowboy



turning wood into art




New tricks for old eyes!!

Just as I'm about to embark on some serious shed time SWMBO decides the house needs a coat of paint.



She is actually right, but I don't admit to that. The walls are a reasonably innocuous pale grey BUT, every room

has feature wall and therein lies the problem.



Some of the walls are/were very garish - purple, vivid blue etc. The real trouble however, lay with one particular colour.

The feature in the office and the laundry ( for Pete's sake! ) is a mauve colour not too far removed from the grey in most

Light conditions.



So, Ana takes a nice sized sample from the Laundry and we trot off to the paint shop. Get 15 litres with 1/2 tinting as we

wanted to go lighter. Well Guess what? Ana took the colour sample from the wrong wall!! But worse still, we did not even

realize that the bloody laundry was two tone until this morning!!!!



Now we have 15 useless litres of paint!!!!:~:~:~

l




VIC Stanley #71 Router Plane

English made Stanley #71 router plane complete with fence, depth post/shoe, and three cutters, as well as the original box and pamphlet.



The cutters could probably do with a little attention as I've only ever sharpened them freehand so their bevels are no doubt a bit off, but there is still plenty of meat left in them for decades more use.



Otherwise the tool and accessories are in excellent condition and it will be sad to see my baby go.





Can be picked up from (Ballarat/Cardigan Village) or I'd be happy to drop it off to you (within the same area) for a tour of your shed :U



Postage would be an additional $16 on top of the selling price if you would like it delivered by mail.


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Bosch GTS 10 J - any opinions from users?

The Bosch GTS 10 J "site table saw" would seem to be ideal for my requirements: compact, light weight, dust extraction, able to be stored on it's side etc. It has been mentioned a couple of times on this forum, but not in much detail. Has anyone been using it for a while and have any comments? My use would be for ripping of timber rather than cutting panels (some old ironbark floorboards first up), and I'm also looking for dust extraction that works. There are good deals on it at the moment which include a folding stand, but some of the table saws around this price point seem to attract less than favourable comments on the internet re flimsy fences etc. Anything cast iron or larger is out of the question as I have to move it into the garage or elsewhere whenever I want to use it. All comments appreciated. Thanks, Peter




Fun Maxing Out the Lathe Diameter

I chanced upon a 14" dia log the other day and didn't want to waste any of the size of it. Held my breath, stood aside and stared the lathe.... It OK, I'm still here to tell the story.



http://ift.tt/1fhwoa3



Great fun.




anyone tryed a laguna lathe??

im starting to look at bigger lathes atm, might be wanting to up grade.



i was looking at the robust but cant find anyone in asutralia that stocks them.



ive looked at laguna the REVO 24 x 36 - 3HP Lathe



http://ift.tt/1fhwluD



but dont know anyone who have use or own one and looks like a decent price too



so any suggestions or comments would be nice




the old farm sheds (WIP.)

Have started another carving, it is in QLD. Cowrie, and taken off a drawing of "Jolliff's" (sheds) at "camphill" station near Rylstone NSW. I find the cowrie good to carve being straight grained, but find it a bit hard to see the perspective (is that the right word?) as it is bland so I have been useing graphite to rub on to highlight it , for me it works well, Comments? :;CD. ( camera resets date to 2007 when you change batteries)


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Filling defects in redgum slab

Can someone give me advice; I am making a redgum slab table and the top has typical defects in it such as borer holes, gum veins and general holes and gaps. I want to fill these defects with a filler that will handle the weather as this table will be used outside. I am thinking along the lines of an epoxy filler or something that I could add sawdust to, to match the color of the table top. As this table will be facing the elements, the chosen filler must not break down due to weather. Any information would be greatly appreciated.




1/5th Scale Peny-Darren 1804 Locomotive

Hi All,



For my new project I will be building a replica of Richard Trevithick's 1804 Steam locomotive. It was run at Peny-Darren - thus the name, on 14th February 1804. It ran on cast flange rails (no flanged wheels). It was the first train to tow a load - 5 trams of coal and 70 men. However the trip didn't last long a the smoke stack hit a low bridge nd was seriously damaged. I am building this because I am a bit of a train fanatic. I have found a fair bit of detail, unlike my original plan to build Stephenson's rocket - not much detail available. This locomotive does look a bit weird and I think will provide a great challenge. I am building it 1/5th scale and will provide quite a number of posts of my Work in Progress. Some photos of the loco are shown below.



Regards



Keith


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ozzie tool supplier

has any one used this company http://ift.tt/1gixA9c im looking to upgrade some of my carbide tool holders to something a bit better than the elcheapos

john




Gear Problem.

Hi Guys,

Some of you will know that I've had various problems with my Chinese mill. Well I would like to solicit comments about this plastic gear from my mill. The gear in question is the duplex speed change gear that lives inside the mill head. From new, the mill has always made a slight ticking sound that varied as the spindle speed changed. Well the other day I was slitting some alloy bar with a 1 mm thick saw and the blade grabbed and the top plastic gear lost a tooth and ground it into the other teeth. I'm not overly happy about it but not too concerned either. Since replacing it is a 20 minute job. I'm more concerned about the other one. After removing the smashed gear I tried rotating the spindle by hand and found that it had a spot where it was hard to turn. Getting to this gear is a major job to remove and inspect. The pictures show what I found. So my request for comments.



The first three pictures are of the duplex gear. The damaged area is inside the red box. The other picture is the top driving gear. This one is directly driven by the motor. You can see where the initial grab took place and the place where the teeth were stripped off.



Thanks all.


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WA 1/2 HP Woodworking Hollow Chisel Morticer - Carbatec - ex cond

Posted on Gumtree. $380.00 negotiable. Make me a reasonable offer, I'm keen to sell so will work with you if you are genuine. http://ift.tt/1iST8h9Excellent condition Carbatec hollow chisel morticer with 5 chisels and stand.This would suit a new buyer as it has very little use. Only being sold now as it is now surplus to requirements and taking up workshop space. This model has a tilting head to do angled mortices and a large adjustable handle to get good leverage and comfortable action when doing many mortices.A high level of accuracy is possible with this solid cast iron unit. I actually built a set of dolls' bunks with mortice and tenon joints this unit is so easy and accurate to use.Prospective buyers are welcome to test - just call to arrange a time. All reasonable offers considered. CheersPhil




Wood Movement

First I must offer thanks to Wongo, the two Ians and a few others who taught me more than a little about wood movement and who corrected my evil woodworking ways.



I am one of those sick, twisted puppies who actually likes statistical analysis. So when I found some wood movement data published in a WW magazine I soon got it into an Excel spreadsheet and added the density data from Bootle. This wood movement data was uncommon because it is all measured data (by the CSIRO, from memory). What follows are some of my discoveries, most of which fall under the interesting but not necessarily useful category. However, some of you might find it interesting. First, here are the data.



Data.jpg



One of the early studies was to correlate tangential with radial movement. The outcome was interesting. The data formed two systems. A main system (shaded red in the next pic) and a secondary system (shaded in yellow). Hereafter these are called the red and yellow data. The yellow system is a set of timbers that show unexpectedly low radial movement compared to their tangential movement.



Tangential-Radial.jpg



The yellow woods were: rose she-oak; beach she-oak; northern silky oak; southern silky oak; black bean; Aust red cedar; river banksia and red banksia.



Then the data were correlated again in their separate colours, as seen in the next pic. The banksia’s are missing from the yellow tangential versus radial chart because they were a poor fit. They formed their own system where radial movement was exceptionally low.



Red.jpg



Then Density was correlated with Tangential movement. For most woods density is a reasonable predictor of movement in the wood. This means timbers such as red and white cedar, cheesewood, celery top and black pine, all of which are low density, are low movement timbers. The eucalypts tend to move a lot more, because they are dense.



Yellow.jpg



So, I had fun (I know ... I am a sick puppy). What did become obvious was why celery top pine was so popular with boat builders. A firm timber with good strength that has low movement both tangentially and radially. This would have been especially useful for boats that were in and out of the water. The wetting and drying cycles would produce only low levels of movement. The same characteristic is handy for cabinetmakers in some circumstances.



Next time I am building a large table top or similar large panel, it might be instructive to consider a medium density timber with low expansion. This forum is chokka with examples of panels that have failed in some way because of wood movement. We can't eliminate wood movement, but we can, where appropriate, select timbers that minimise this movement and the potential attendant issues. Of course, we should always use construction methods that accommodate wood movement.



The banksia’s were interesting. They have average to high tangential expansion, but very low radial movement. If quarter cut, they would be a medium density timber with very low movement, and they are beautiful quarter cut. What a shame this wood is so rarely available.



Are there any biologists (or perhaps plantologists) out there who can shed further light on this subject?



Some of you are likely thinking I have too much time on my hands. That is correct. I am in Saudi Arabia, working. No clubs, no pubs, not even a glass of wine with dinner. No music, no singing and no dancing. I can go for days without seeing a woman, and when I do see one she is wearing a burka. What else am I going to do to keep myself out of mischief?



Have fun!



John


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VIC Makita 3709 Router

Makita 3709 hand held trimming router 1/4inch chuck. It has not had a lot of use.


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lessons needed in adelaide

Hi guys and gals

I am looking to see if any woddies here in Adelaide would like to give me some one on one lessons with hand tools and general woodworking

as I have health issues with my body I have cant stand long without pains

I have posted this as I would like to learn to use hand tools as I am having issues using power tools due to the vibrations end up in pain later

I have very little experience with hand tools but find that I am grabbing more and more hand tools to try and make things and would like to learn to use them correctly

I would also like to learn tool sharpening as well

I have looked into the men's shed but most of the ones close to home meet during the week. I cant attend these as I still work 50 hour weeks and I cant attend

If not thanks for having taken the time to read this

many regards Michael




Norfolk Island Hibiscus

Hi,



I have a 12m Norfolk Island Hibiscus in my yard that will need to come down soon.

The local council is not a fan of them either due to the itchy pods it drops.

It is about 450mm diameter at the base and pretty parallel for the first 4 or 5m till the first branches.

Will this yield much usable wood?

How should you cut it?

I can't find out much about it other than it is a very light coloured wood.

Might be useful to keep some for some trim or inlay.



Thanks.




Ideas for farm road

Hi all. I need some outside the square ideas for an access road into my rural property. It has a easement to gain access and the easement crosses ground that is absolutely treacherous in any amount of rain. Like, seriously, seriously dangerous slippery stuff. The easement is about 800 mt long and varies from flat ground to ridge top with only one short rise of about 9 mt in elevation. Because the easement goes through a cattle farm the cows do their best to destroy everything when it rains. 200 cows walking in a line 300 mm wide soon carves a massive trench. So,I've taken to filling the cow trenches with roadbase and luckily some of them line up to make a good pair of wheel tracks. However, we got nearly 400 mm of rain last week and the road base is completely gone. The current track is impassable with just a shower of rain so a long term solution is needed pronto - so I can get in there and build my off grid cabin. Things I've thought of / considered are



1. traditional road base type of road - will mean machinery and lots of expense and no guarantee it will survive a deluge let alone the cows

2. paving two wheel tracks all the way using either - rocks from the creek (plenty) or DIY concrete pavers cast in a mould at home and transported to site

3. pave two wheel tracks with besser blocks and fill them with gravel

4. weld up steel frames to form 2 wheel tracks and fill with gravel

5. lay some sort of matting down

6. horizontal gabions



Things to rule out based on cost



1 bitumen - too expensive

2 full concrete

3 proper graded gravel road



Bearing in mind that it is not my land and whilst having an awesome road would be great, improving someone elses land value is not my bag :D

The property has no power or water and machinery would be limited to about 3 tonne. Another fella uses the easement too so there is a possibility of splitting the costs. He is not strictly obliged to contribute though. Any and all oddball, left field suggestions are most welcome.



Cheers.





Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...




Insulating shed roof - product to use

G'day guys,



Just signed up. I am doing big home reno's and building my shed (guess which one is more important :D ) and am looking to cut costs / save money where possible. I've got a stratco portal frame 6.1x6.1 m shed coming next week, and i intend to stud out and line the walls and insulate with batts, so all good there. But the roof, I am not sure if I intend to batten and line. Because of this, i want to install some foil insulation when I build the shed. Products like anticon, polyair performa, the aircell stuff - glareshield/ insulshed/insulbreak etc etc. However I am only keen to buy second hand (saving da money) and i notice there is a lottttt of Air Cell Permicav available on the secondhand market. ( AIR-CELL Permicav, 3-in-1 high performance cavity wall insulation )

It seems to be identical to all the other foil products, except it is punctured with heaps of holes to allow breathing. The permicav is stated as being specifically designed for inside brick cavity walls.



Wondering if anyone knows if i can safely use this stuff under my steel roof sheets? I rang Air Cell, and they said they don't recommend it, but obviously pointed me towards their other products that suit, so i wasn't really expecting a recommendation. Does it matter if the stuff is breathable? If it does matter, i could wrap plastic builders film either underneath it or on top of it, which will form an impermeable layer. I'd go the exactly specified stuff, but permicav is so cheap as excess from builders projects i really want to use it if there are no major negatives.



Anyone got any comments? Cheers!





Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...




Reamers 101

I have had limited experience using reamers . Many years ago I replaced the king pins on my Dodge ute , I clamped the spindle in a vise and used a proper mechanics king pin reamer set . It had a tapered guide that you fixed on each end of the bushes , and a adjustable reamer , it worked reasonably well .



What are the advantages of the fixed sized versus the adjustable reamers ? The TAFE course I did , reamers were not even mentioned :? Mike




How to turn rounded ends accurately?

I'm turning up a great many spindles as very long mushrooms, think Shitake style. They are long, such as 200mm



The heads are obviously round. Im getting very favourable accuracy with the measurements and thicknesses. Once I part off both ends, how to I finish the top so it's spherical/rounded and smooth?



I've been doing it by hand on my big lathe disk sander, but there must be an easier way! I was thinking of a 125mm disk sander with an ultra-soft underpad. I just stuff the end in the middle and the conforming pad rounds it up...but this seems too technical.



Any idea friends?



(many thanks to Robbo for his past insistence on beads and coves, beads and coves, grasshopper!)




jacobs keyless chuck

I recall others having trouble with keyless chucks by jacobs but I thought i'd try one anyhow.

Worked well until bit jammed on breakthrough and ruined the chuck. So $140 down the drain pl;us the

problem of removing it !!! I've never previously had any trouble with their keyed chucks. I hope this is just a one off.

So who has the best KEYED chuck ???:~




Help needed from a knight of the dark art

Ladies and Gentlemen, my next major project is 8 chairs and each one has a carved crest rail. My woodworking is 'competent', my carving is 'barely passable' but my CNC carving skills and knowledge are 'nil'.

I would like to pay someone from the forum to CNC rout the basic crest and I will finesses with hand tools … but I don't know where to start?

I have no idea how to write a programme BUT I could carve one and I presume it could be copy carved by a stylus follower?

On the face of the crest rail is an ellipse about 250 x 150, relief carved, maximum depth about 8mm and the few undercuts would be done after with hand tools. The back of the same piece will be engraved each with a different name to be done in Celtic font. The crest rails are flat and can be carved before assembly

I am in South West Sydney.

Can someone help me please?

fletty




First Square Platter

Turned this today. Bit of experimenting as had not done one before. Started with turning the buttom







Then flipped it and tried to get an evenish edge







All in all I'm satisfied with it







One bit of advice I'd give to others .... dont be so tight and cut off that weathered end







As I want it to be a user I finished it with canola oil .... I guess that is ok?





Dave the turning cowboy



turning wood into art




NSW Double ended tack remover

dimanche 30 mars 2014

I am looking to replace my stolen double ended tack remover, I always called it the "jimmy". Don't know the brand and don't have a picture. Cast metal, (not flat bar), silver and between 250mm and 290mm in length. Had it for about 30 years and really would like to replace it as I need it for my work. If you have one or know somebody with one please contact me. Thanks, Mike




variable speed on single phase motor!

Ok. Ive seen someone on youtube, who rigged a standard cheap, secondhand, single phase 4 pole motor, to a small conveyor belt, with some kind of adjustable control knob, which adjusted conveyor belt speed to ridiculously slow speeds, but maintained enough torque to push conveyor belt with some resistance. Now i cant find link for the life of me, but I definitely remember seeing it.



Just wondering how this might be acheived at reasonable cost, and safely? Resistors would surely create so much heat as to potentially start a fire(?) VFDs not an option, as these are like $100 projects! Ditto not done through a gearbox and/or too many pulleys, or any other mechanical means. it was definitely acheived through electrical gubbinsry. Only wish I could remember where I saw it!



Im sure theres more than one method here; it occurs to me to think about how ceiling fans speed are adjusted, and applying this....anyone actually know how it is acheived though?



Thanks in advance




Cheap U-beams?

OK, it's not welding but it's metalwork and someone might know - I need to rebuild my old rotting timber patio and I thought of making it look nice and a bit different. An industrial look, with U-beams. Problem is, 90mm x 2.0mm SHS is about 1/3 the price of 150mm x 75mm U14 beams. Is this the norm? I hardly need the structural strength of a U-beam but I like the look. I could repurpose old gumtree beams but it might take a while to gather enough and the right sizes ...




You will all want one of these!!

Well, possibly you won't, but if you have a crafty partner (careful here) and wish to curry favour you may be interested.



We were returning from Brisbane the other week and as we approached Toowoomba SWMBO said she needed a crochet hook as the one she had borrowed needed to be returned. We headed off to Lincraft, but the traffic was diabolical for us country types (more than ten cars in a row) and we did a U-turn and headed off to Spotlight. They didn't have the large size we required.



"Never mind said SWMBO brightly. You can make me one in wood!"



Possible I thought, for the right encouragement :).



This was the plastic hook I copied:



Hook 1 002.jpgHook 1 001.jpg



And the timber versions:



Crochet hook 001.jpgCrochet hook 002.jpg



The top hook is Gidgee and the bottom Spotted Gum. I was initially concerned the neck area might be too weak, but these timbers are strong and I needn't have worried. They are just under 180mm long and the handle section is 15mm diameter. The handle is turned on the lathe and the hook shaped with rasps (my new Liogier rasps :cool: ) after a bit of trimming with a frame saw (thank you IanW for that beast). The whole lot could be done with planes and rasps if no lathe is available.



Crochet work is normally associated with fine material. In this instance the idea was to use up old sheets, which are torn into strips about 50mm wide and used to make a bath mat, which is why such a beefy looking crochet hook is needed.



Crochet hook 003.jpg



SWMBO isn't happy with the result and says she needs more practice. She has more sheets :). The pic seems to show up flaws, which I didn't see before so maybe she is right. She tells me she usually is :(.



Good use for scrappy little bits of wood and an alternative to pens I suppose. That might provoke a response from the pen makers if nothing else :wink:.



Regards

Paul


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Carbatec Perfect-Gloss hardener discolouration

I have a litre set of the Carbatec Perfect-Gloss clear decorative timber coating.

Two part mix and sets "crystal clear" (apparently).



The product is over 12 months old but unopened until this weekend, but going by the instructions that is OK. Problem is the hardener has discoloured, it is now a honey brown, but still clear. The other container is clear like water.



I have tried a test piece and am dissappointed in the tinge of brown. The gloss is good and has set hard.



Has anyone else had this problem. :? Is there a way to diminish the tint? Possibly mix ratio of resin to hardener, even if the cure time is lengthened.



I had bought it on the sales pitch, long shelf life, clear hard gloss finish etc.



I have contacted Carbatec, who said take it up with the distributor, who said take it up with Carbatec. :((



The problem (other than the discolouration) is that I bought it in Brisbane and have subsequently moved to Newcastle. So trying to liaise with interstate retailer and local-ish distributor is painful at best.

Any suggestions appreciated.

I'll let you know how my 'liaising' goes.



Lyle.




Living in Pottsville Northern NSW

Hi all



last year I moved up to the Gold Coast for work and lived out near Tamborine whle trying to work out where to live. Well, after much to stuffing around it looks like we really like Pottsville and in particular Koala Beach Estate. It ticks a lot of boxes for us. Close to schools, beaches and about 40 to 50min to work for me.



Does anyone live around that area and if so pros and cons?



I hear a new woollies is opening.



cheers





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




Rejuvenated parting chisel

No idea where this chisel came from but it did not fit in my PVC tubes for my chisel rack.



It was old looking and flaking varnish on the handle so time to re-turn it to some of its original luster.



Well I must say with just eee after some sanding and a moment with the roughing gouge and she is a fine looking piece of timber and a nice feeling handle too









Dave the turning cowboy



turning wood into art




Another Swiss Boring Head - A Tiny Kaiser

24mm in diameter tiny. Bores 0.4 -15mm!



This Kaiser was in an German eBay auction last night ending at 1am Perth time. I placed a bid at dinner time thinking I'd probably wake to find an outbid notice awaiting me. Mine for EUR 54.99. A bit less than the Piccolo! :roll:



Schaublin offered the head as an accessory for their mills. It was supplied with a 10mm diameter straight arbor facilitating it's use with, in the case of the 13 and 53, their 6000 rpm high speed heads.



The arbor on last night's win is a 1 Morse. The head accommodates 4mm diameter cutters, the finding of which should be a challenge.:rolleyes:



A search for the Tosei connection has so for proven fruitless. Tosei sounds Japanese. Kaiser have been in partnership with BIG Daishowa Seiki since the early eighties though this head looks the same as the one pictured below in the 1962 13 catalogue. Michael G encountered a helpful fellow at Kaiser when we were fiddling around with our boring and facing heads. The same bloke may be able to shed some light on who Tosei was.



BT



kaiser.jpg1.JPG2.JPG4.JPG5.JPG


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Huanyang Inverter 4kw

i have problem with my HUANYANG 4.0 KW INVERTER VFD when i do the job it stops randomly.feels like spindle haven't power. rpm 24000 400hz but still it stops when cuting wood with 11.2mm end mill tool at 10mm depth. strange is that it dosen't get hot but a little bit warm.



i have this set
http://ift.tt/1jNtqya



same look spindel. air cooling.




Metal detector

Hi All,

I have ruined a set of thicknesser blades:C (hitachi 330mm) and was thinking of getting a cheap metal detector to avaoid this in future. Is a hand held security scanner likely to do the trick? any other suggestions?



Cheers,



Dunks




And todays fun

Well have spent this afternoon roughing out either outside with the chainsaw preparing the logs to roughing out 2 of the blanks still 2 more to do in this batch. It is surprising hoe much mess 2 blanks can produce. What you see in the picture filled 4 carrier bags of shavings all beech.

On the bench on the right is another bowl blank and also another piece for hollow forms should get 2 largish form or 3 smaller ones out of that piece

DSCF3025.jpg


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A little more turning

I managed to have a bit more fun in the shed with a little turning the other day. Made this little box from scrap wood, mahogany and olive wood the coin is 22.5mm dia



DSCF3020.jpgDSCF3021.jpgDSCF3022.jpgDSCF3023.jpg


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Pimping my Dovetail Plane

Several years ago I built a dovetail plane that shaped the male section of a sliding dovetail ...







Based on a derelict skew rebate plane, it wasn't much of a looker, but it got the job done.







The build pictorial is here: http://ift.tt/1fD2LN5



About 18 months ago I bought a HNT Gordon dado plane, which is a superb performer and stunning looking plane. I was inspired to build another dovetail plane, this time one that planed the female/matching joint. I styled it to match the dado plane (on the right) ...







Used together, they make a great team ..





Build details are here: http://ift.tt/1fD2Kc3



Now, in a couple of weeks I shall join Terry Gordon (HNT Gordon Planes), Colen Clenton and Chris Vesper (tool makers extrordinaire) at the LN Perth Tool Event, where I will be demonstrating making joints with hand tools. I decided that one of the joints I shall make will be the sliding dovetail. In addition to saw-and-chisel, I plan to use the dovetail planes.



That's when I looked at the dovetail plane and thought that it could do with a face lift. Well, a face lift that improved its functionality as well.



Targeted was the depth stop and the fence. In the original versions they required a hex key to adjust the bolts. This is a limitation - much better to be able to do so without a special tool.



The stained and tired beech body was stained Jarrah to match the other planes, and a bit of bling was added with brass. This is how it turned out ...











Behind the depth stop is the nicker ...







The one-piece Jarrah fence has a brass face. This was very difficult to photograph and obtain an informative perspective ...











Here is the family shot ..







Regards from Perth



Derek




 

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Ipsum

Dolor