Spray Lithium Grease for lubing office chair?

lundi 31 août 2015

I'm using silicone spray which is easy & quickly silences the squeak, but only lasts a few months until the squeaks come back. It looks like too much work to take everything apart and use proper grease.

Wont to know if its a good idea to use lithium grease & if it will lasts alot longer over silicone? Would it leave or deposit stuff behind once it wears off clogging the small gaps between the metal pieces?

These are the parts I'm spraying silicon on. Pretty much any metal contacting other metal:


thanks


What trees are these?

I have a few trees on the block. I know some are mango but I am confused as to which. The others look similar but could be a different variety or totally different.
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PD Shinta 1006 - another long story.

PD Shinta 1006, another long story:
My first introduction to Shinta was in the isolation kennels at the school. Only 10 months old, he ran around and around in circles in his kennel, climbing up and down the wire, flinging his excrement all over the place and barking and screaming like a lunatic on uppers; he was on everyone’s ”don’t want” list for this reteam. When the chief instructor informed me he was my new PD, I was not impressed. The very first day of reteam, Shinta ran around wildly getting tangled in the 15 footer and barking and whinging loudly and driving me and everyone else on course crazy, continually climbing back up the lead, I think he had more air time than Chuck Yeager. Shinta was an extremely enthusiastic biter and when the CI explained the new whisper in their ear method of leave on command, I had serious doubts about putting my face that close to his; but, lo and behold, when introduced, he left straight away and continued to do so for the rest of our time together. I returned home and Shinta continued climbing back up the lead, although by this stage he was concentrating his efforts mostly on my left hand, forcing me to wear a padded glove. While at Glenbrook, the Penrith living in barracks were shut down and of course doggies had to secure the area as well as our normal duties, with no extra troops of course, the usual RAAF way. To lighten the load, I took up residence in the old barracks from 1700 hrs to 0800 hrs each day taking Shinta with me. We were both indifferent to each other at this stage and the first night in the barracks I tried to get Shinta to sleep by the side of my bed, but he kept sticking his nose in my ear and climbing into my bed, finally I gave up and let him stay. In the morning, he was a different dog, he no longer bolted at every opportunity and became a willing worker, although he still hated my left hand. By the time we got to our second last posting, Shinta had become very affectionate, climbing on my lap or lying next to me with his head on my lap whenever he could, it was also becoming evident he wasn’t a very healthy dog: One weekend another handler rang me at home and said there was something wrong with Shinta, when I quizzed him, he said Shinta was very quiet and had sidled up to him in the kennel and nuzzled his hand for a pat, not Shinta‘s normal behaviour. Alarm bells rang and I raced in, but Shinta greeted me like there was nothing wrong, the other handler insisted that he wasn’t quite right and so I took him to the Vet. Upon examination the Vet found he was indeed crook, he had suffered a heart attack. His list of health issues was expanding: He already had an enzyme deficiency which prevented him from digesting his food properly, he had also picked up an ear infection that wouldn’t respond to treatment and had a continual runny nose. The ear infection was taken care of by an aural resection (removing the lower section of ear leaving a hole in the side of the head), for the runny nose, he had an exploratory rhinotomy, (peeling back the face and scraping out the nasal cavity). When done the Vet advised me to keep him indoors that night and gave me a syringe with a pain killer, telling me to be very careful when I administered it that night, as he would in all probability be in a great deal of pain. I came in that night and slowly opened the door to the SGT's office where Shinta was convalescing, Shinta jumped around whinging, whining and wagging his tail as usual, I gave him his needle without any problems and went home. The next day another handler asked how Shinta was last night, I said he was fine and obviously not in any pain, “Ooooh yes he was“, he said in his usual laconic way, “He tried to smash his way through the window to get at me“, so I guess he wasn’t feeling to well after all. The rhinotomy made things worse: Both nostrils ran continuously, the mucous building up and hardening, blocking his nostrils with rather large hard bogies the size of peas which I removed everyday with tweezers. I was coming to work practically everyday to look after him at this stage and after a discussion with my boss regarding Shinta’s health problems he agreed not to interfere as long as I continued to look after him as I had been doing (it’s nice to be the white haired boy every once in a while) . I was posted to the school as an instructor shortly after and Shinta went with me. I continued looking after him and he seemed to improve. Eventually I went on leave thinking Shinta was OK for a couple of weeks but he went downhill quite rapidly whilst I was away and so he was euthanaised. Unfortunately, I never new when Shinta was crook: Whenever I turned up he would get excited and carry on like there was nothing wrong; in retrospect, perhaps that was why he liked to curl up next to me or sit on my lap in the latter part of his life, but I like to think it was for other reasons. He scared the s$%t out of more than a few people in his short life but to me he was always extremely affectionate. He retained his slightly crazed bent and never outlived his hyperactivity (he ran the obstacle course in 19 seconds) nor his finger painting and at the end of every shift I was usually adorned as well as he, but I just couldn‘t say no to his affection. I wasn’t there for Shinta in his final days and for that I will never forgive myself. He was only six years old when he died, just plain worn out.
I always get misty and my glasses fog up when talking about my boys, Shinta died over 28 years ago.
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WIP window

I get no cave time but i do work with wood for a living. From time to time i do a little more than wall framing and second fix.

This job requires a window to fit this opening



Stau tuned

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art


Bow in Pine Beam

I have a 140 x 70 treated pine beam (3600 long) that I want to use as a beam in a new pergola.
It has a fairly significant bow across the full length.

Will wetting (presumably on outside of curve) and forcing the beam to bow in the opposite direction for a couple of weeks have any lasting effect on straightening?

I guess it will be possible to force the beam into a straight profile as the rafters are secured but wonder if some other straightening should be attempted first?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Ji


Carbatec CT 330

Hi all, Trying to locate a user manual for a Carbatec CT330 thicknesser. Been all around the internet, but have had no luck tracking one down. Any ideas ?
Regards Paul


Camphor pics

One of my favorite timbers..the humble old Camphor...MM:2tsup:
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QLD Paulownia Blocks for turning

Offering 4 Paulownia Turning Blanks
All 600mm x 95mm x 95mm
Seasoned,Dressed all round
Asking $70 the lot plus postage (weight around 6kg)...MM:2tsup:
A lot of subtle figure through out this stuff :;
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MDF Panel kitchen doors

Hi I am making some kitchen doors to suit my existing kitchen. I have use a router and made the doors out of MDF for the stiles and rails and marine plywood for the panel in the centre. I will need to paint it white but I need to know what to use as a putty or filler in some of the joints and also if I will have to prime the MDF. Could anyone help me with these next steps in the process and tell me what products for a filler and a primer are the best choice

Terry


Burl Musk and Tiger Myrtle

NOT AN AUCTION. Figured musk block @ 42mm x 110mm x 250mm,
Burl musk 1 @ 85mm x 80mm x 165mm. 1 @ 70mm x 70mm x 145mm, 1 @ 60mm x 90mm x 110mm.
Tiger Myrtle. 1 @ 80mm x 40mm x 385mm. 1 @115mm x 25mm x 385mm.

*Some of the musk has some spalting and or light stain. Theres a few shallow cracks on the edges of the tiger Myrtle. All Probably around half to 2/3 seasoned.
Price includes shipping within Au.


Need a New Table Saw NEW TO WOODWORKING

Hey all I am new here.
I am also relatively new to woodworking.
I have been making my own furniture but been very limited..I have been using a drop saw to cut my timber which is quite hard when you need to cut wide panels straight.
So I just purchased a cheap table saw the other day
http://ift.tt/1m7Shcv
This one to be exact.
I only opted for the cheap one as I am on a tight budget and well I am new so shouldn't be spending huge amounts..
I have used it today and noticed the fence mustn't be very parallel to the saw blade as my cuts are 1-2mm off. which is a huge problem.
I know I was just getting a cheapy but I didn't think that meant inaccuracy like that.
I just thought it would mean cheap parts lol

So I am going to take it back and get a different one.
http://ift.tt/1NU7L4e

This one to be exact as thats the only other one thats on my budget and thats pushing it.

Can anyone give me any advice please


Smellie & Co lathe

Hello all :)


Got me-self a Smellie & Co brand lathe. S&Co were a Brisbane based company. The plate that is on the machine says it is supplied by S&Co though does not claim to be the manufacturer. I'm trying to work out who the manufacturer may have been. Best I can work out is that S&Co were out of foundries by the 1890's so likely not made by them.


There are no cast markings anywhere on the machine though on the bed tail stock end off-side the letters "F & AS" are stamped, with the numbers "6251" stamped underneath the letters.


The couple of threads I've come across referring to the S&Co lathe do not mention manufacturer nor has Lathes UK got any info. A lathes UK search of "F & AS" has not shown anything. The Trove adds from S&Co I've found so far make no mention of manufacture though do show a picture of the lathe around 1910 to late 1920's. A trove search of F&AS re foundry or machine shop has not shown anything yet.


I've got a couple of Mars laths (R+D) and do not see any similarity. Mars were from another Brisbane company.


S&Co had a branch in London so may have sourced the machine there.


Anyone know the background/manufacturer of the S&Co lathe or who F & AS may have been ?


Read the full thread at metalworkforums.com...


LVL plus trimmer lintel query

We need to replace and raise a small window in the kitchen
As there will be a Roof Extenda bracket centered on this window and we want to make sure it is more than adequate I want to use a short length of LVL that happens to be left over from another project
Window is 600 and window opening will be 640mm
The LVL is 95 * 70 and if installed in the normal manner that only leaves 20mm of timber to nail though
Is it OK to put the lintel timber centered on the trimmer as per the sketch?
I can't find anything in the timber framing manual to answer this question
LVL plus.jpg10mm on either side and a hold down 12mm bolt all the way through
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Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...


Squaring Up Motor With Blade.

I have a 10 inch Carbatech saw that vibrates when running. The motor jumps around a bit. like the belt is catching and releasing in quick succession as it spins and is causing the whole machine to shake which in turn is effecting the straightness of the cut. I have replaced the belt and tried a few times to square the motor with the belt but its still not good enough. Any tips would be appreciated. Has anyone tried the carbon fiber linked belts?


Rustic furniture workshop, Toowoomba

Hello,
Late notice I know, but there has been a last minute cancellation, so a place is now available this weekend. I will be running another workshop in November.
Check it out here, at Cobb + Co Museum. http://ift.tt/1Eu8JSp

Thanks for looking!


I want one...



Finish gone hard in Jar!

I haven't turned a bowl for a while, l turned one last week end and when I went to finish it I found both he EEE - Ultra Shine and Shellawax Cream had gone hard.
Is there any way to soften them back to a paste?
Both jars are near full.
:(


3d printer

I got this printer some time ago but what with life and all, I've been a bit slack in using it.
I spent a few housr tonight getting familiar with the software, tuning and aligning it.
Test job came out OK so now I have it printing something important - a dalek!

I still need to get it printing with ABS but that needs a new power supply and some circuit redesign. At the moment, PLA is printing fine. It's not as strong as ABS and being biodegradable, not something I use to build outdoors type items.


For those interested, the printer is an Ord Hadron and is available from 3dtek. I didn't get mine there, I bought mine from the USA when it was first released and we had a strong $A.
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Oh Dear

Oh Dear, is this really our future :o :doh: :~.

It's not April 01, but its got to be a joke, surely......

http://ift.tt/1JGTHot


It's all fun and games until...

...you have to locate and fix an air leak in here:
IMAG1335[1].jpg

I've narrowed it down to the bottom row, 3rd or 4th from the right and it will continue to leak until something actually stops working :p
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What timber for under-house work bench in termite area?

Evening gents,
I need to make a proper new work bench come storage shelves to replace the shelf of a bench that the previous house owner fashioned from chipboard.

The room is under the house and part of one wall (from inside floor level to about 300mm above) is natural dirt. The rest of the walls are brick and the ground is compacted dirt with block pavers laid fairly neatly on top. Living on the Northern Beaches termites are a real risk. The joists that the house floor sits on are VERY hard hardwood.

Being a Pom I know I shouldn't attract the little critters, shouldn't use pine and should use hardwood, but thats about where my knowledge expires.

I guess I should be looking at a cheap, carcassing grade hardwood?

Any suggestions on what I should be asking for at the timber merchants?

Thanks
Jon


What do you do when your drive belt starts to fail mid-job?

Cut the torn part out and keep working :2tsup:
IMAG1320[1].jpg

Bit of back story:

We got contracted to supply about 15km (not a typo) of American Oak 30x30mm dressed and sanded 4 sides and with a 2mm round all 4 edges in 3.6m and 3.3m lengths. It's been arriving in batches over the past few weeks as we've pretty much bought all the timber in those lengths in the country and we have to wait for new shipments. We're getting it pre-dressed, so it's just sanding and moulding at our end.

Anyways, half way through the second batch the moulder goes 'bang' so after making sure everyone's ok we inspect the damage and find the join has started to de-laminate. Called Rydell and they can supply a new belt in 2 days but this timber has to go out the door that day so we need to keep working. Plan A is to rub some araldite in and clamp for an hour; switch the moulder on... BANG. So we end up with Plan B in the picture above, we're only running a 2mm round (2 edges at once) so there was no danger of overloading, that came later that day....

After that run, I had to do a series of glue joints for a table top; 9 boards wide, 3.3m long and 32mm thick, so 8 joins and 16 passes. Not the best timing, but it had to be done. Got it all set up, power feed on slow (6m/min) and away we go. The belt wasn't under full tension to reduce any risk of catastrophic failure so I didn't have full power and by the end of each pass it was struggling. Fortunately the belt held and the table was glued up the next morning.

Got 25 years out of that belt, hopefully the new one (which was joined on-site to save us the effort of pulling things apart) lasts as long.
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trouble logging into new metalwork forum

The new metalwork forum looks great but I don't know what my password is (my computer just remembers it). I tried the link for lost passwords on the new site but it just comes up with an error, and so does the contact us link at the bottom of the page. Is there any way I can find out my password for here or get it reset on the new site?


Melbourne Wood Show

We have recently moved house, and have been unable to post any threads for awhile, but we would like to let all Woodies know, especially those in Melbourne, that we will be at the Melbourne Wood Show with Wynwood Sawmill from Tasmania with over 9 ton of selected craft timbers eg; Birdseye Huon, Blackheart Sassafras, Blackwood, Burl Myrtle along with Queensland Timbers eg; 1/4 sawn Northern Silky, old dark Camphor, and Western Woods to name a few. Happy to hear from you if you have any questions
cheers Trevor.


fancy cornice?

Just a quick faceplate turning 90 by 90 and 19 mm thick. Nice break from Stairs.
the boss was happy.
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RIP Toby

Just letting you know, I had to let go of my best mate, a Staffy X Corgi, Toby today, got him in May 2000, he went everywhere with me except to the Northern Territory, even to work, where his favourite spot was under the bench, except when something slipped out of my hand and lobbed on his scone. He'd been run over a couple of times in the car park there, didn't even cry out, that's the trouble being the first unit in the block, they soon learnt to slow down.
His favourite things, were to go for rides in the car, loved camping with all the smells of the bush. He'd had his own bed in the car, so he could see outside as we went along, If he did "smells" he look at me as if to say "Jeez, dad you're foul".
When I had a bad car accident, he was with me, he didn't get hurt, fortunately, but ran away and was found the following Monday in a council pound, suffering Kennel Cough, probably crying for me. I was in hospital for 21 days, and he was sneaked in twice, to see me.
When we'd set up a coffee shop, a few years later, he'd always try to sneak in, to see me or have a cappuccino. We'd been through some rough times, but he was always there for me, more than I can say for someone else who was in my life at the time.
The last few weeks were the worst for him, he ended up with a kidney/bladder infection, then about 2 weeks before having to say goodbye Chronic Arthritis in the rear legs, and required to be carried outside to go toilet, I'm glad that he had lost some weight as he was about 22 Kg this time 2 years ago, he got down to 16.5 in the end and stayed that way for a month before, my having to say good bye. When he was outside, he had to hop around, similar to a kangaroo grazing.
He'd been having needles to help with the arthritis and pain killers, but I could see that he'd had enough.
Farewell my friend.


Huanyang vfd/inverter parameters

dimanche 30 août 2015

I am wanting to test the motor that will drive the blower of my cyclone; it is a 3kw 3 phase motor being run through a 3kw rated Huanyang vfd.

I am confused about the vfd manual's descriptions of certain parameters.

PD003 is for setting the "main frequency". I take this to mean the mains power supply frequency (i.e. 50Hz).

PD004 is for setting the "base frequency". I understand this to be the frequency the motor should be supplied with as stated on the compliance plate. My motor has figures for both 50Hz and 60Hz. As I would want maximum performance from the blower I would set this at 60Hz.

PD005 is for setting the "maximum operating frequency". I understand this to be the highest frequency output I desire from the vfd. Presumably this should be set at 60Hz since I do not want the blower motor running any faster than the maximum compliance plate figure.

Am I right about any of this? Advice from anyone with experience of an Huyanyang vfd would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers


Wood to use for furniture making

Hi, I'm new to woodworking. Recently received a router as a gift, this piqued my interest to learn more about woodworking projects.

For my next project, i have intention to make a bookshelf.

However I struggle to find decent timber supply in Melbourne.

What is the common go to wood to use for a beginner.

eg. Plywood? MDF? Hardwood?
Buying veneered sheets? buying pre-veneered laminated plywood?

I've used MDF in the past and painted it with roller. But it still struggles to give that professional finish.


bandsaw fence length

A stupid question perhaps but is there any reason to extend a band saw rip fence past the blade? I was thinking of cutting my resaw fence down so as to allow timber to move however it wants to once it is past the blade and only worry about holding things square and straight as it moves into the blade.


Grain orientation.

I've been splitting firewood for 2017,( I'm an optimist ) and while splitting green Spotted Gum blocks noticed that the handle was getting ragged again. Every time I go to buy a new handle I find that whole splitters are cheaper than handles so I've gathered a few spare heads.
So, I've grabbed some 1m lenths of green Spotty and will make some handles, they will be about 30X45mm and I was wondering which way to run the annual rings, with the long axis or across like a longbow.Any ideas,opinions....PhilIMG_20150831_124523.jpgIMG_20150831_124507.jpg
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WANTED ~ Bandsaw Perth to Albany

Looking to buy a Bandsaw around 14".

Live in the Great Southern, and can travel to pick it up, fro Perth South side of River, to Albany.


Crotch milling advice

I picked up a couple of pieces of eucalypt (unknown sp) and would appreciate your thoughts on how best to mill these crotch pieces...they're pretty small but I'm hoping to get some interesting figure for small panels (like box lids) and veneers. They're only small with the largest being about 600mm)

Should I cut through the 3x piths centrally, or should I cut either side of the 3 piths (a quarter saw slab, with boxed heart).

The split on the first piece is only into the bark layer.

IMG_1865.jpg
IMG_1866.jpg
IMG_1867.jpg

Thanks,
John
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Metabo sander SXE450 Turbo vs Duo

Are these the same model? The RRPs are $100 different.

http://ift.tt/1PFY8V0

http://ift.tt/1PFY7jS


Vale Oliver Sacks - (book "Uncle Tungsten" inter alia)

Vale author Oliver Sacks.


Vale Oliver Sacks, who wrote the book "
Uncle Tungsten: Memories of a Chemical Boyhood".

Now that's a great read, and as another forum member once wrote, he made the Periodic Table look fascinating.






What is this sticking out of the ground???

See photo:



It protrudes from the floor on the pathway on the side of the house.
Is it attached to a buried pipe of some description?

I need to know if I can cover it up with pavers? Or does it have to be obvious for a reason?

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...


9mm Luger

Gun Show key rings.

Les






Two Little men

Having seen these on various forums and liking them I have decided to make a couple. So here is the start progress is going to be slow even though they are simple as I am making other things at the same time but not toy related.

The first two parts not yet glued. Turned the heads and cut the bodies as well as sand any sharp corners that need doing
DSCF5338-001.JPG


The pieces below the body assembly are the belt and leg support which still need to be shaped


DSCF5339-001.JPG



Just a general view of the woods I am using the three bits on the left are for the legs and arms I still need to dig some out for the hands which will be the same colour as the head


DSCF5340-001.JPG
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Dedicated Paring Chisels - Any Experience?

After recent having been "shown the light" with regards to the use of dedicated paring chisels, I'm seriously considering getting a few. Maybe 4-6 of them.

It looks like I have three options.

Blue Spruce: These are the Rols Royce it seems. Boutique company, high end handle timber, extreme attention to detail, etc etc. All that. Super expensive.

Robert Sorby: These come from CarbaTec, and it appears that they may be phasing them out, or at least certain sizes. I'm a bit reluctant to get these because I hate the handles and will end up knocking them off and replacing them, thus spending a bit of money on nothing.

Narex: It looks like Lee Valley has commissioned them to make a set of chisels specifically for them. I like these for a couple of reasons, namely they are extremely cheap so scrapping the handles isn't a drama, and they also don't appear to have any branding on them, which I appreciate. They claim to be made of a "silicon chrome" steel. Anyone care to comment on that? Metallurgy isn't my forte and as soon as you say anything other than High Speed or High Carbon I go into "deer in headlights" mode.

I know there are some good paring chisels on the vintage market, but I am not having any luck finding them. I'd appreciate any leads on that kind of thing as well.

So if anyone has any kind of feedback on what they use, or what they have used, then I'd be interested to hear it.

Thanks a lot in advance.

Cheers,
Luke


Kant Twist Clamps on the shelf in Australia

Kant twist clamps are hard to get in Australia, but I have a considerable number in stock if anyone wants them. Our shipment just arrived.

http://ift.tt/1fDgOID

i use my Kant twist clamps for knifemaking, but they are a really awesome design classic clamp for all kinds of welding and fabrication applications.

we have the "no mar" models, with polyurethane jaws and protective pads.

prices on the common ones can be found in the Gameco blacksmithing and knifemaking catalogue from about page 69 http://ift.tt/1MKv1Rd

if you cannot find the one you want just sing out as we have a lot there that have not yet made it to the catalogue.


Read and reply to the full thread at metalworkforums.com....


Turning Milk Bottles:)

I was inspired in part by a Youtube clip of a bloke making a slingshot out of HDPE and in part by a need to make a new plastic housing for the end of my 4WD compressor.

I cut up a load of 2L milk bottles (because they are made from HDPE), made a quick timber mould and threw it in the oven for 1.5hrs.

This is the hot HDPE being pressed into shape:
IMG_4232 by Jon Kelly, on Flickr

Out of the mould and a quick dress up:
IMG_4235 by Jon Kelly, on Flickr

I was aiming for a 90 x 90 x 90 solid block of HDPE at the end of the process but unfortunately my mould wasn't tall enough to melt sufficient HDPE so I ended up with 90 x 90 x 48!

Shortly after turning in the lathe I found this air pocket:
IMG_4237 by Jon Kelly, on Flickr

I decided at this point that Id need to start again because I needed a hollow cylinder with a square end. Regardless of the 'manufacturing floor', I turned the HDPE around and started to bore out the back, only to find this:
IMG_4238 by Jon Kelly, on Flickr

Clearly the milk bottles hadn't had long enough in the oven and the centre was still cold and hadn't melted. Defo time for Mark II!

I was very surprised at how well the HDPE machines, easy to get a good surface and heat doesn't seem to be a problem.

Today's activity was to make a better, stronger and taller mould and cut up more of those pesky milk bottles... Will post more about Mark II later...

R
Jon


Read the full thread at metalworkforums.com...


 

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