Until I realised that carving things other than burl bowls was so much more fun, I had made only bowls which were also enjoyable, but limited. From an bowl offcut I had a try at these two objects, and bowls are fading fast. Despite a total lack of experience and a very amateurish result, I cannot get enough time to immerse in this work, I now know why members here are so passionate about it. Here to learn from the hugely talented carvers !
Refinishing an Old Saw Handle
I've got an old Disston D-8 handle that's in good shape except for the fact that someone painted it black. I'd like to re-finish it as close to original as possible. Any suggestions as to how to get it stripped down to the original wood? Also, what do you think I should use to coat it? I've watched a couple of videos and they used shellac.
Dave
Dave
VIC Vicmarc chuck jaws
Vicmarc Long nose chuck jaws to suite V.M 100
Have had some use but in very good condition.
pick up is Wattle Glen Vic
Have had some use but in very good condition.
pick up is Wattle Glen Vic
Help! is this pallet safe to use?
Good evening
Im just starting to work with pallets but im not sure if the one i got is safe to use, please help. See pic attached.
IMG_20140731_191957.jpg
Im just starting to work with pallets but im not sure if the one i got is safe to use, please help. See pic attached.
IMG_20140731_191957.jpg
Sticking insulation to steel shed wall and roof
So SWMBO has decided not to let me build a timber shed due to the time it takes, but I'll still be building a timber floor/bearers for it... Then put a colorbond shed on top. It's 3m x 1.5m x 1.9m, not sure if I'll go gabled or skillion roof yet.
My question is, I can get a nearby supply of Bradford Anticon 60mm for quite cheap - about $100. But how would I stick it to the walls and roof? The shed, which is yet to arrive, doesn't appear to have steel runners along the walls or on the roof. So how would I stick the Anticon to it? The Anticon is only foil coated on one side, and the foil is meant to face inwards.
Or is there a better option? I can't find a local foilboard supplier, and that was my other choice. Any other suggestions? I'll be using the shed as a (very small, but Inner West Sydney isn't exactly roomy!) workshop, storage for R/C gear and other bits and pieces. The shed will have a door at the narrow end and a door at the front for cross-ventilation when I'm using it, and I'll probably install some sort of solar vent as well. I'll also build a screen of some sort in front of it to hide its ugliness. I'll be getting it from sheds4less.com.au as they are the only ones that have 2 doors.
I see a lot of people here tend to line their sheds but this is only small, and I need to conserve the little space I have. Advice appreciated!
Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...
My question is, I can get a nearby supply of Bradford Anticon 60mm for quite cheap - about $100. But how would I stick it to the walls and roof? The shed, which is yet to arrive, doesn't appear to have steel runners along the walls or on the roof. So how would I stick the Anticon to it? The Anticon is only foil coated on one side, and the foil is meant to face inwards.
Or is there a better option? I can't find a local foilboard supplier, and that was my other choice. Any other suggestions? I'll be using the shed as a (very small, but Inner West Sydney isn't exactly roomy!) workshop, storage for R/C gear and other bits and pieces. The shed will have a door at the narrow end and a door at the front for cross-ventilation when I'm using it, and I'll probably install some sort of solar vent as well. I'll also build a screen of some sort in front of it to hide its ugliness. I'll be getting it from sheds4less.com.au as they are the only ones that have 2 doors.
I see a lot of people here tend to line their sheds but this is only small, and I need to conserve the little space I have. Advice appreciated!
Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...
QLD SEASONED SPLIT FIREWOOD
Seasoned split firewood for sale. $80/m3 delivered within 15k/m radius of Buderim.
Call for sale cost for areas outside of the 15k/m radius.
Free kindling delivered with every load.
Less for pickup from Buderim.
Ready to deliver or to be picked up this weekend.
The more you order the lower the rate for 5/m3 orders and over.
Contact Brett on 0434 214 043
Call for sale cost for areas outside of the 15k/m radius.
Free kindling delivered with every load.
Less for pickup from Buderim.
Ready to deliver or to be picked up this weekend.
The more you order the lower the rate for 5/m3 orders and over.
Contact Brett on 0434 214 043
QLD BRUSH BOX TIMBER SLABS
Seasoned brush box timber slabs. Lenths up to 6.0m. Widths from 300mm to 800mm.
Ideal for table tops, benches, stairs and all other furniture you wish to produce out of this beautifully detailed hardwood.
Approximately 12m3 to 15m3 in total, stripped out and air dried.
$2,500/m3 neg. - Prefer to sell in lots of 3/m3 or more.
Can discuss smaller sales.
Contact Brett on 0434 214 043. Located on the Sunshine Coast.
Ideal for table tops, benches, stairs and all other furniture you wish to produce out of this beautifully detailed hardwood.
Approximately 12m3 to 15m3 in total, stripped out and air dried.
$2,500/m3 neg. - Prefer to sell in lots of 3/m3 or more.
Can discuss smaller sales.
Contact Brett on 0434 214 043. Located on the Sunshine Coast.
Dawn 250mm Quick Action vice - QA not disengaging
Hi,
My first post... and I have a problem, and hopefully posting it in the right forum... it's a tool and it's hand powered :D.
I bought this vice secondhand and the quick action never seems to disengage. It was pretty easy to disassemble, 7 bolts and it comes apart.
It seems like the spring marked B doesn't hold down the half nut C tight enough to stop the 'quick action'. The entire assembly with the half nut has threads on half of the inside along the length of the sleeve. Apart from the bolts, these are all the parts (pivoting plate was missing from the seller, a known issue). The chrome piece supporting the sleeve assembly is just there to prop the assembly up for the photo.
The scrapes along the screw cover A make it seem like the spring was rubbing against it at some point. When I got the vice, the spring was pointing downwards, as in 180 degrees rotated from where the scrapes are. Turning the handle did nothing, the plates did not move.
Does anyone have this model or similar and can advise on any missing parts or if I am doing something wrong? As it stands, the vice is useless as a vice unless I weld or glue the half nut in place, I'd rather try and return it to the seller first if it is indeed broken (it wasn't a bargain!). I've tried googling till my eyes went googly but there seems to be no info (or even good photos) on this model of vice.
Attachment 321020
Attachment 321021
Attachment 321022
Manufactuer's link: Woodworking Vice, Vices
My first post... and I have a problem, and hopefully posting it in the right forum... it's a tool and it's hand powered :D.
I bought this vice secondhand and the quick action never seems to disengage. It was pretty easy to disassemble, 7 bolts and it comes apart.
It seems like the spring marked B doesn't hold down the half nut C tight enough to stop the 'quick action'. The entire assembly with the half nut has threads on half of the inside along the length of the sleeve. Apart from the bolts, these are all the parts (pivoting plate was missing from the seller, a known issue). The chrome piece supporting the sleeve assembly is just there to prop the assembly up for the photo.
The scrapes along the screw cover A make it seem like the spring was rubbing against it at some point. When I got the vice, the spring was pointing downwards, as in 180 degrees rotated from where the scrapes are. Turning the handle did nothing, the plates did not move.
Does anyone have this model or similar and can advise on any missing parts or if I am doing something wrong? As it stands, the vice is useless as a vice unless I weld or glue the half nut in place, I'd rather try and return it to the seller first if it is indeed broken (it wasn't a bargain!). I've tried googling till my eyes went googly but there seems to be no info (or even good photos) on this model of vice.
Attachment 321020
Attachment 321021
Attachment 321022
Manufactuer's link: Woodworking Vice, Vices
Problem sharpening first plane blade
I just bought my first plane at a yard sale. I've tried sharpening it on a combination #250/1000 waterstone with a honing guide. It looks sharp now but doesn't work well - it won't even cut paper. What could I be doing wrong?
Mitutoyo depth gauge and other items
A bit to costly for me.
Mitutoyo Depth Guage #7217 | Other Tools & DIY | Gumtree Australia Morphett Vale Area - Onkaparinga Hills | 1052948593
Also check out his other items, height gauge and mics
Mitutoyo Depth Guage #7217 | Other Tools & DIY | Gumtree Australia Morphett Vale Area - Onkaparinga Hills | 1052948593
Also check out his other items, height gauge and mics
How to cut curves that are parallel?
I have ripped a board on a bandsaw, making an elongated S curve along the length of the board, and now want to make an identical cut 25 mm offset from the original, so that I end up with a snakelike flat piece of board 25 mm wide.
Can anybody please advise on the most accurate way of doing this, in a manner that is consistent and reproducible without much sanding?
Can anybody please advise on the most accurate way of doing this, in a manner that is consistent and reproducible without much sanding?
Penrice Soda Auction in Adelaide
I spotted the auction. It is worth looking at the pictures if nothing else.
Nice machine tools, Geared head drill Ardboga? Mazak lathe etc.
http://ift.tt/1qNblnd
Nice machine tools, Geared head drill Ardboga? Mazak lathe etc.
http://ift.tt/1qNblnd
How much weight can a brick wall handle?
Delbs built one and I've seen many articles of canter levered style wood storage shelves (eg: The 2 Car Garage Shop: Wood Storage )
If I were to attach this to the wall, just how much weight can the wall take?
My need is to build a new set inside and out, but the last thing I need is for my stash to pull over the garage wall!
If I were to attach this to the wall, just how much weight can the wall take?
My need is to build a new set inside and out, but the last thing I need is for my stash to pull over the garage wall!
For the Love of Cars - Triumph Stag - ABCTV
For the Love of Cars - Triumph Stag - ABCTV
I watched this today on iView; it was broadcast last night.
Good show, but, ...
The tool abuse, and obvious lack of everyday knowledge and experience by the "car getter and fixer" man when pulling down the engine, was hard to take.
Probably staged for TV, but really depressing just the same to view it.
And, ... I think they did not investigate enough the reasons for the failures in V8 engines in this otherwise great car. There is plenty of detailed info around on the web.
After the show, I went into my shop and cleaned up some spanners.
I watched this today on iView; it was broadcast last night.
Good show, but, ...
The tool abuse, and obvious lack of everyday knowledge and experience by the "car getter and fixer" man when pulling down the engine, was hard to take.
Probably staged for TV, but really depressing just the same to view it.
And, ... I think they did not investigate enough the reasons for the failures in V8 engines in this otherwise great car. There is plenty of detailed info around on the web.
After the show, I went into my shop and cleaned up some spanners.
I just ordered a new BS-470 from Leda in Adelaide
:UHi all you mob ,
I just bought my first bandsaw from Leda in Adelaide.
Bandsaws : 18 inch LEDACRAFT BS-470 BANDSAW
I saw that most people were buying or recommending Laguna's and Hammers and so on, but I thought the Leda was the best option in regards to price and power. I have not seen the machine to I am leaving it up tp the guys in Adelaide to send me up a beauty!
I will post a review for you mob in a month when I get it setup, the 15amp instlled and some logs to make sawdust with.
Palya!
Miko
I just bought my first bandsaw from Leda in Adelaide.
Bandsaws : 18 inch LEDACRAFT BS-470 BANDSAW
I saw that most people were buying or recommending Laguna's and Hammers and so on, but I thought the Leda was the best option in regards to price and power. I have not seen the machine to I am leaving it up tp the guys in Adelaide to send me up a beauty!
I will post a review for you mob in a month when I get it setup, the 15amp instlled and some logs to make sawdust with.
Palya!
Miko
Short/low stools
Huon pine tops, approx 400mm x 55mm
Horizontal scrub legs.
DSCF3943.jpg
Tops have been turned with a 25mm radius to look thinner than the actual thickness.....
DSCF3944.jpg
Horizontal scrub legs turned with a 30mmx30mm shouldered dowell/pin epoxy glued joint.
Since coffee tables and regular chairs have roughly the same height these could be either spare chairs or small coffee table.
Horizontal scrub legs.
DSCF3943.jpg
Tops have been turned with a 25mm radius to look thinner than the actual thickness.....
DSCF3944.jpg
Horizontal scrub legs turned with a 30mmx30mm shouldered dowell/pin epoxy glued joint.
Since coffee tables and regular chairs have roughly the same height these could be either spare chairs or small coffee table.
The door handle avalanche
Just finished the latest order of door handles
DSCF3949.jpg
Celery top pine,spotted gum and Tas oak in this lot. The ones on the far left.......put your sunglasses on, next photo is a tad overexposed.
DSCF3950.jpg are more pulls than handles, they are eventually recessed into sliding doors to give an internal finger hold.
Have been turning these and similar ones for an architect couple for perhaps the last 2 years and the orders have been increasing exponentially. The architects are very sharp marketers!.
Making them is pretty repetitive and boring but its a good hourly rate.
Recently another turner has joined in as it was getting too much for me.
I guess it's just a "bread and butter" sideline for the architects who would have bigger fish to fry elsewhere but it goes to show that there is indeed scope out there to make money from new original ideas.
DSCF3949.jpg
Celery top pine,spotted gum and Tas oak in this lot. The ones on the far left.......put your sunglasses on, next photo is a tad overexposed.
DSCF3950.jpg are more pulls than handles, they are eventually recessed into sliding doors to give an internal finger hold.
Have been turning these and similar ones for an architect couple for perhaps the last 2 years and the orders have been increasing exponentially. The architects are very sharp marketers!.
Making them is pretty repetitive and boring but its a good hourly rate.
Recently another turner has joined in as it was getting too much for me.
I guess it's just a "bread and butter" sideline for the architects who would have bigger fish to fry elsewhere but it goes to show that there is indeed scope out there to make money from new original ideas.
WA BANKSIA -Grandis
4 pieces of some nice looking Banksia ,well seasoned with natural edge.
Sizes are 300mm x 110mm to 160mm x 30mm
Asking $50 + Post
Sizes are 300mm x 110mm to 160mm x 30mm
Asking $50 + Post
Early Impressions of a 'non-US' Low AngleJack
I recently returned my brother's #5 Stanley that had been on loan to me (for 35 years! :o ), which left an empty spot in my tool cupboard. Now I've wanted to try out a LA jack plane for quite a while, but found it hard to justify getting one when I already have more planes than I really need, but with an empty spot to fill, well, here was opportunity banging at the door. :U
But retirement means I have to be a lot tighter with my tool budget, so I decided to try out a Quangsheng version of the 62, on the strength of mostly favourable reviews. One thing I have to say for it, the tote looks far more like a tote than any of my Veritas planes arrived with: LAJ1.jpg
Looks are deceiving, though. The radius at the bottom front of the tote is too tight, & pinches even my smallish pinky, and the grip is too fat for comfort, at 26mm thick. But it is a beautiful bit of wood (Bubinga?) and worth keeping, so out came the rasps & scrapers and a bit of extra shaping got it pretty close.
I do not like the standard 'high' knobs that came into vogue about 100 years ago, so that has to go. A quick look showed the shaft has an M6 thread at the top & an M5 at the bottom where it screws into the adjustable sole piece, so I dug out a spare low knob I had, & set to work modifying it to fit the LAJ. There is a bit of poor manufacturing with the existing knob - there are no lugs on the metal baseplate of the knob to prevent it from unscrewing the top brass nut (as on the original Stanley 62). So if you over-tighten the knob (which I managed to do almost immediately!), instead of the bit in the sole unscrewing, the knob comes loose, leaving the metal shaft & brass base firmly attached! A drop of Loctite on the retaining nut when assembling the knob would probably solve the problem, but I decided to make some holes in the new baseplate I made, through which a couple of pins can be driven into the knob, as added insurance: LAJ4.jpg
I haven't pinned it yet, 'cos as soon as I can find a wee chunk of Bubinga to match the tote, this Rosewood knob is going back in the 'spares' box. Here are the two knobs side by side, so you can see the difference: LAJ2.jpg
So why am I so pig-headed about a stupid old knob? It's because for me, a flat-topped low knob is far more comfortable to use. If you've ever had a long planing session with a high knob, holding it with your hand wrapped around the knob the way most people do, you will probably have experienced the the blisters on your little finger caused by constant rubbing against the side web of the sole. Using a flat-topped knob is much more comfy. I simply bear down on the top with the palm of my hand on the power stroke: LAJ5.jpg
Then transfer most of the pressure to the right hand as the stroke is completed. On the return, I cup my fingers around the 'mushroom' to lift the front very slightly: LAJ6.jpg
Easy-peasy, & no blisters!
Anyway, the verdict on my modifications is that they have improved the comfort a lot, though I need to have another go at the tote to get it right. The blade seems quite tough, it took an excellent edge, and the plane made good shavings straight off: LAJ7.jpg
I have some reservations about some of the components, like the dinky M5 thread in the sole plate, and a pretty dinky lever cap screw, too, but the plane had a solid feel in use. I'll report further when it's had some serious use... :;
Cheers,
But retirement means I have to be a lot tighter with my tool budget, so I decided to try out a Quangsheng version of the 62, on the strength of mostly favourable reviews. One thing I have to say for it, the tote looks far more like a tote than any of my Veritas planes arrived with: LAJ1.jpg
Looks are deceiving, though. The radius at the bottom front of the tote is too tight, & pinches even my smallish pinky, and the grip is too fat for comfort, at 26mm thick. But it is a beautiful bit of wood (Bubinga?) and worth keeping, so out came the rasps & scrapers and a bit of extra shaping got it pretty close.
I do not like the standard 'high' knobs that came into vogue about 100 years ago, so that has to go. A quick look showed the shaft has an M6 thread at the top & an M5 at the bottom where it screws into the adjustable sole piece, so I dug out a spare low knob I had, & set to work modifying it to fit the LAJ. There is a bit of poor manufacturing with the existing knob - there are no lugs on the metal baseplate of the knob to prevent it from unscrewing the top brass nut (as on the original Stanley 62). So if you over-tighten the knob (which I managed to do almost immediately!), instead of the bit in the sole unscrewing, the knob comes loose, leaving the metal shaft & brass base firmly attached! A drop of Loctite on the retaining nut when assembling the knob would probably solve the problem, but I decided to make some holes in the new baseplate I made, through which a couple of pins can be driven into the knob, as added insurance: LAJ4.jpg
I haven't pinned it yet, 'cos as soon as I can find a wee chunk of Bubinga to match the tote, this Rosewood knob is going back in the 'spares' box. Here are the two knobs side by side, so you can see the difference: LAJ2.jpg
So why am I so pig-headed about a stupid old knob? It's because for me, a flat-topped low knob is far more comfortable to use. If you've ever had a long planing session with a high knob, holding it with your hand wrapped around the knob the way most people do, you will probably have experienced the the blisters on your little finger caused by constant rubbing against the side web of the sole. Using a flat-topped knob is much more comfy. I simply bear down on the top with the palm of my hand on the power stroke: LAJ5.jpg
Then transfer most of the pressure to the right hand as the stroke is completed. On the return, I cup my fingers around the 'mushroom' to lift the front very slightly: LAJ6.jpg
Easy-peasy, & no blisters!
Anyway, the verdict on my modifications is that they have improved the comfort a lot, though I need to have another go at the tote to get it right. The blade seems quite tough, it took an excellent edge, and the plane made good shavings straight off: LAJ7.jpg
I have some reservations about some of the components, like the dinky M5 thread in the sole plate, and a pretty dinky lever cap screw, too, but the plane had a solid feel in use. I'll report further when it's had some serious use... :;
Cheers,
tree lopping insurance
I am getting a tree guy in in 2 days but wondering about his insurance. He says he is insured and can show me this but I don't trust myself in a short moment to check such things. When I google the company name (not a Pty Ltd) I get nothing. The company name does not include a personal name either.
Do tree guys have a central register that I can check to see if they are above board for insurance?
Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...
Do tree guys have a central register that I can check to see if they are above board for insurance?
Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...
Air Drying Stone Tree Logs in Canberra
Hi,
We're in the process of cutting down a partly rotten stone fruit tree (we think) in our Canberra backyard. Some of the logs (1-2m long, 8-30cm in diameter) seem to be in good condition and I'd like to save and dry them for future wood working projects. We only have access to a small shed, as well as some space under the house... I'd like to hear any advice on how to process, treat and store these small logs in ACT climate conditions in order to avoid cracks and end up with nice timber for wood working.
Sorry if this question has been asked before, I did a quick search and didn't find anything concrete.
Cheers,
Lars
We're in the process of cutting down a partly rotten stone fruit tree (we think) in our Canberra backyard. Some of the logs (1-2m long, 8-30cm in diameter) seem to be in good condition and I'd like to save and dry them for future wood working projects. We only have access to a small shed, as well as some space under the house... I'd like to hear any advice on how to process, treat and store these small logs in ACT climate conditions in order to avoid cracks and end up with nice timber for wood working.
Sorry if this question has been asked before, I did a quick search and didn't find anything concrete.
Cheers,
Lars
Hairline gap in mitre joint - HELP
mercredi 30 juillet 2014
I am in the process of making a jarrah box with 12mm sides 120mm high with mitred corners and a 100mm long hidden spline in each joint running the full length except for the last 10mm each end of each joint (to avoind the lid and the base).
Something has gone wrong in the glue -up / clamping process, and I am left with one joint with a full length hairline gap, uniform for the full height of the box. The joint is strong because of the hidden spline, but unsightly because of the fine gap on the corner ( to me anyway). It appears like the spline on that particular joint is a hairs width too wide.
Can anyone please advise on the best way to fix this so that the gap is not noticable? I have available Techniglue epoxy, PVA glue and jarrah sawdust, and of course jarrah coloured Timbermate. The problem is getting them into the fine gap which runs for 100mm.
I did intend to finish the box by routing a 3mm roundover bit on the corner joints, but will put that on hold for the time being.
Something has gone wrong in the glue -up / clamping process, and I am left with one joint with a full length hairline gap, uniform for the full height of the box. The joint is strong because of the hidden spline, but unsightly because of the fine gap on the corner ( to me anyway). It appears like the spline on that particular joint is a hairs width too wide.
Can anyone please advise on the best way to fix this so that the gap is not noticable? I have available Techniglue epoxy, PVA glue and jarrah sawdust, and of course jarrah coloured Timbermate. The problem is getting them into the fine gap which runs for 100mm.
I did intend to finish the box by routing a 3mm roundover bit on the corner joints, but will put that on hold for the time being.
Kunos and Huon Pine
I am wanting to use Kunos Oil on some Huon Pine and was wondering if i need to seal the timber before applying the oil? and what would you recommend, shellac? I have this vague recollection that i read some where about the Huon's oils spoiling some finishes.
Thanks
Thanks
record cl2 help
G'day all looking at getting some advice for my lathe its the blue record cl 2 ,my question is I would like to change the pulleys from three speed to 5 speed by changing the pulleys is this possible and if so can someone advise me as to where I might be able to get them I wish I had the funds to make it variable speed via the electrics but that aint gonna happen just yet so thought the pulleys will have to do for now .
any info would be great cheers osage..
any info would be great cheers osage..
gympie area, need about 15 trees dropped
hey there not sure if in right area but ahve a about 15 good sized trees, soft and hardwood to be cleared on house site. looking or anyone interested in dropping them and can ahve trees for free. cheers
Hercus gearbox plate
Can anyone supply me with a good clean photo of a 9" metric gearbox plate. I am looking at producing reproduction plates but don't have a sample of that type.
Political Burdens
One of the burdens of office of the small town mayor was his brother-in-law,
a fellow who liked to throw his or, rather, his in-law's political weight around.
The mayor had instructed his policemen and other city officials to treat him
just like they would any other taxpayer.
The brother-in-law got a ticket for overtime parking.
He immediately descended in a fury on police headquarters,
waving the ticket and sputtering, "Hey, do you know who I am?"
The desk sergeant surveyed him calmly, picked up his telephone and dialed the mayor's office.
"Tell the mayor," he said to the mayor's secretary, "that his brother-in-law is down here and can't remember his name."
a fellow who liked to throw his or, rather, his in-law's political weight around.
The mayor had instructed his policemen and other city officials to treat him
just like they would any other taxpayer.
The brother-in-law got a ticket for overtime parking.
He immediately descended in a fury on police headquarters,
waving the ticket and sputtering, "Hey, do you know who I am?"
The desk sergeant surveyed him calmly, picked up his telephone and dialed the mayor's office.
"Tell the mayor," he said to the mayor's secretary, "that his brother-in-law is down here and can't remember his name."
metal and wood
I had made the sail boat profile some time back.well i thought i would frame it
make it into a garden plaque
copy a sailboat picture for a cnc plasma cut - YouTube
this was the original trace of the sailboat,had the profile kicking around
so i thought i would give it some use make it into something
sailboat framed - YouTube
make it into a garden plaque
copy a sailboat picture for a cnc plasma cut - YouTube
this was the original trace of the sailboat,had the profile kicking around
so i thought i would give it some use make it into something
sailboat framed - YouTube
GMF Betts 12 Speed Drill Press Tidy Up
I picked up this unit around 3 or 4 years ago for $40 and it has been used in it's neglected state since. Probably one of the last made in Aust by GMF Betts, it is dated June 1988 and drills an accurate hole with no run out. On fitting a new belt last week I noticed the idler pulleys were sitting low and pulling them to realign, led to the decision to do a rebuild. It has always been missing one arm, someone has welded the MT into the spindle and the rack is missing it's top collar. The table angle adjust has also been welded, so these need sorting out. I am also thinking about fabricating up a belt tensioner like the waldowns have if I can make it fit.
If anyone else has one of these could they please post up pictures of the rack collar and the belt tensioner?
If anyone else has one of these could they please post up pictures of the rack collar and the belt tensioner?
The GIS self-rescue thread
I spent about 2 hours practicing self-rescue with my GIS this past week. I still absolutely stink at it. I can just manage a self-rescue on a fairly calm day. But I know I'm hosed if I go over alone in any kind of chop. It will just be a matter of hanging on until I get rescued or fetch up on shore somewhere. (The one time I was in this situation, I had to swim the boat to shore. Luckily, I had a following wind.)
I know that some of the problem is that I'm heavy -- 200lbs / 91kg. And some of the problem is technique. I've never managed the trick of sneaking over the gunwale while keeping my center of mass below it. I'm just not that flexible. Maybe someone who is good at it can give me pointers during the Northeast Goat Herd-up in September. I hereby volunteer my boat for swamping in a self-rescue clinic. It will be worth it if I can learn the trick.
But after a lot of playing around this weekend, I've decided that much of the problem is just my boat. My mast is heavy. Even with the sail down, the whole package isn't stable when the gunwale gets near the water. The balance is very close -- I can right the boat with just a small tug down on the centerboard or up on the submerged gunwale. But there is definitely a tipping point when the gunwale is about 2" (5cm) above the water. Let go at that point and she is going over, not up. If I try to roll in as the gunwale comes up, the very tiniest bump from any body part sends it back down.
Knowing that I just can't get in over the side, I have rigged up a crude rope ladder over the transom. This works if the water is flat. But maintaining balance while clambering in is tough. Any kind of waves make it almost impossible. This is not a permanent solution.
Many builders on facebook have talked about adding buoyancy. I tried tying in some old PFDs under the seats. That really didn't help at all.
The solution as I see it, at least for my build with my heavy mast, is ballast of some sort. I have to give the boat a few more degrees of heel before it reaches the tipping point. It probably won't take much. 2 x 25lb bags of sand, or maybe just 1, tied around the base of the centercase would probably be enough. Like I said, the balance is close. I just need to get it to the point where it will reliably right itself from a degree of heel that allows me to climb in.
The problems will be keeping those bags from shifting and not adding so much weight that the top of the centercase is flooded with my fat butt in the the swamped boat.
What think you all? What have you found works? Doesn't? Am I the only one with this problem? Is my mast uniquely heavy?
I know that some of the problem is that I'm heavy -- 200lbs / 91kg. And some of the problem is technique. I've never managed the trick of sneaking over the gunwale while keeping my center of mass below it. I'm just not that flexible. Maybe someone who is good at it can give me pointers during the Northeast Goat Herd-up in September. I hereby volunteer my boat for swamping in a self-rescue clinic. It will be worth it if I can learn the trick.
But after a lot of playing around this weekend, I've decided that much of the problem is just my boat. My mast is heavy. Even with the sail down, the whole package isn't stable when the gunwale gets near the water. The balance is very close -- I can right the boat with just a small tug down on the centerboard or up on the submerged gunwale. But there is definitely a tipping point when the gunwale is about 2" (5cm) above the water. Let go at that point and she is going over, not up. If I try to roll in as the gunwale comes up, the very tiniest bump from any body part sends it back down.
Knowing that I just can't get in over the side, I have rigged up a crude rope ladder over the transom. This works if the water is flat. But maintaining balance while clambering in is tough. Any kind of waves make it almost impossible. This is not a permanent solution.
Many builders on facebook have talked about adding buoyancy. I tried tying in some old PFDs under the seats. That really didn't help at all.
The solution as I see it, at least for my build with my heavy mast, is ballast of some sort. I have to give the boat a few more degrees of heel before it reaches the tipping point. It probably won't take much. 2 x 25lb bags of sand, or maybe just 1, tied around the base of the centercase would probably be enough. Like I said, the balance is close. I just need to get it to the point where it will reliably right itself from a degree of heel that allows me to climb in.
The problems will be keeping those bags from shifting and not adding so much weight that the top of the centercase is flooded with my fat butt in the the swamped boat.
What think you all? What have you found works? Doesn't? Am I the only one with this problem? Is my mast uniquely heavy?
Totally stoked
Picked up an RTA300 router table with stand … used, but still in great condition with all the pieces and just expected scuff marks on the table. $250! What a steal! Best thing was it was just 2 minutes down the road.
Now I just have to figure out how to set it up and use it (with my TRA001)
Now I just have to figure out how to set it up and use it (with my TRA001)
A Very Colorful Snake
A few months ago I carved this snake on a walking cane, however I was not happy with the color of the snake. I had painted the snake black. A few days ago, I decided to repaint the snake. The colors I used are yellow, red, orange, and purple.
Please let me know what you think.
Carved Snake 07-30-2014.JPG
Please let me know what you think.
Carved Snake 07-30-2014.JPG
Finding Applewood
Hi Guy's I'm hoping someone may know where I could get my hands on some Applewood.
I'm restoring an 1883 Siegley No.2 Adjustable Plane and the fence at that time was made
from it.
If you know where I may find some I'd really appreciate the heads up :2tsup:
Thanks
Trev.
I'm restoring an 1883 Siegley No.2 Adjustable Plane and the fence at that time was made
from it.
If you know where I may find some I'd really appreciate the heads up :2tsup:
Thanks
Trev.
Good Sawset for an absolute beginner
I love collecting saws, but have never sharpened one. I want to try it out, but am not sure which sawset is the best. I've done some reading on the Internet and it appears that a Stanley 42X is the most recommended piece. I've checked out eBay and they are a bit more than I was hoping to spend. Any other good ones for a decent price out there?
Also, there seems to be a difference of opinion on whether to sharpen and then set, or vice versa.
What size saw file would work well for most saws?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Dave
Also, there seems to be a difference of opinion on whether to sharpen and then set, or vice versa.
What size saw file would work well for most saws?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Dave
Suspended
That is the name I have given this piece. Made for a friendly competition, it is made from Iroko for the base and Walnut for the rest. The base is painted with acrylic paint and then sealed and polished. The piece of Walnut on this is sealed and polished only as is the bowl section. These are joined using a piece of brass rod.
2014-07-30 001 002.jpg2014-07-30 001 003.jpg2014-07-30 001 004.jpg
2014-07-30 001 002.jpg2014-07-30 001 003.jpg2014-07-30 001 004.jpg
Cheap softwood with a distinctive grain?
Hey so I would really like to make a new headboard for my bed and a few things around the house. I recently made a bend end chest using mostly brushbox. End result looked great but way too heavy and expensive. Anybody know about softwoods with distinctive grains? I'm happy to buy reclaimed stuff but even then, I've never been to a lumber yard where you can barter on price. Only been to the ones where everything has a price tag. I'm from west Melbourne but will travel anywhere in Victoria if I can find the right thing.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Kinked saw plate repair
I recently bought an older backsaw on ebay, nothing fancy but looked like a good user. However to my disappointment the plate has a kink along the entire length. I haven't contacted the seller yet, since I want to know if it is possible to fix it first.
Does anyone know if it is possible to hammer out in some way?
Does anyone know if it is possible to hammer out in some way?
Introduction and information
Hi Everyone,
We are new to this forum and picked up our 16ft boat on the weekend.
We found a hull on gumtree and are eager to restore it, but being new to this we just wanted some advice and information.
On picking it up we found out the external had been glassed, which I am guessing on here is a taboo word, and I wish it was all still timber, but we can't change it.
I am wanting to know if anyone on here would know roughly the age of the hull, and what wood is the hull made from.
To replace the ribs, what timber should I use, and I have read that if the hull expands and contracts it could separate from the glass, what can I do to stop this happening.
What treatment can I use to preserve the timber on the internal of the hull if I replace them.
I am sure there will be more questions to come, you may think there is a lot of work to restore this boat, but we know what we are in for. Have a look at the pics of our caravan before and after, and we had never done anything like it before either.
Thanks in advance for replies.
And our van
Before
After
Regards,
James
We are new to this forum and picked up our 16ft boat on the weekend.
We found a hull on gumtree and are eager to restore it, but being new to this we just wanted some advice and information.
On picking it up we found out the external had been glassed, which I am guessing on here is a taboo word, and I wish it was all still timber, but we can't change it.
I am wanting to know if anyone on here would know roughly the age of the hull, and what wood is the hull made from.
To replace the ribs, what timber should I use, and I have read that if the hull expands and contracts it could separate from the glass, what can I do to stop this happening.
What treatment can I use to preserve the timber on the internal of the hull if I replace them.
I am sure there will be more questions to come, you may think there is a lot of work to restore this boat, but we know what we are in for. Have a look at the pics of our caravan before and after, and we had never done anything like it before either.
Thanks in advance for replies.
And our van
Before
After
Regards,
James
What should be in a Aussie Shed First aid kit?
I went to a first aid refresher course this evening and it got me thinking about what sort of things should be in a Aussie shed first aid kit.
We have 2 medium sized first aid kits at our place - one for the station wagon and one in the house, plus I have a small one in the Van, but nothing in the shed.
I went on line and had a look at what was available at a place like St Johns.
They have all sorts of kits e.g.
Kiddies, Ladies, Outdoor, CPR, "Leisure", Off Road, Workplace Vehicle, Bites and Stings, and Low and medium risk workplace kits.
I'm not sure if any of these really suit a shed.
So my poll is what items do you think should be in a First aid kit that would be suitable for an average Shed?
Add more ideas for contents in any posts.
We have 2 medium sized first aid kits at our place - one for the station wagon and one in the house, plus I have a small one in the Van, but nothing in the shed.
I went on line and had a look at what was available at a place like St Johns.
They have all sorts of kits e.g.
Kiddies, Ladies, Outdoor, CPR, "Leisure", Off Road, Workplace Vehicle, Bites and Stings, and Low and medium risk workplace kits.
I'm not sure if any of these really suit a shed.
So my poll is what items do you think should be in a First aid kit that would be suitable for an average Shed?
Add more ideas for contents in any posts.
Finding this a type of file.
Hi guys,
Aussie carpenter here.
Trying to locate a file that was close to my favourite tool in the bag, used to use it for just about everything cleaning up scribes for skirting, lock checkouts etc etc Has gone missing.
Basically it was a 3inch long half-round file to a point, but it had the half round file to a point on both ends, and one side was a coarser side, the other a finer side. if you get what I mean, one side was complete flat, the other half round but they went to points at both ends, and it was reasonably small.
Anybody know what im talking about? because it's infuriating trying to find this particular file, as it was perfect for what I needed, fit in the nail bag etc
I bought it off of a US site originally, just cant remember, as I remember clicking a link when I found it, any help would be great!
Aussie carpenter here.
Trying to locate a file that was close to my favourite tool in the bag, used to use it for just about everything cleaning up scribes for skirting, lock checkouts etc etc Has gone missing.
Basically it was a 3inch long half-round file to a point, but it had the half round file to a point on both ends, and one side was a coarser side, the other a finer side. if you get what I mean, one side was complete flat, the other half round but they went to points at both ends, and it was reasonably small.
Anybody know what im talking about? because it's infuriating trying to find this particular file, as it was perfect for what I needed, fit in the nail bag etc
I bought it off of a US site originally, just cant remember, as I remember clicking a link when I found it, any help would be great!
WorkBench Top - materials to use
Guys
I have finally made the base of my workbench and it is nice and heavy. I now want the top nice and heavy however I do not want to use solid wood. Too expensive for what I want to achieve at this time in my life.
I was thinking of using say 4 x 18mm sheets of MDF then a sacrificial top of sorts.
Thoughts? I would rather probably use ply but it is so pricey.
Will be interested in your opinions.
Cheers
I have finally made the base of my workbench and it is nice and heavy. I now want the top nice and heavy however I do not want to use solid wood. Too expensive for what I want to achieve at this time in my life.
I was thinking of using say 4 x 18mm sheets of MDF then a sacrificial top of sorts.
Thoughts? I would rather probably use ply but it is so pricey.
Will be interested in your opinions.
Cheers
QUIZ: Are you a seriously long term woodie?
After looking at the latest ads for Season 2 of Steve Hay's "Woodwork Show", I started my random recollection of TV shows long gone. I wonder how many remember Joe the Gadget Man on The Nock and Kirby DIY show on early Sydney black & white television.
For you serious old woodies, what time of the week was it on, and what was was the name of the following show, and who hosted it? I will give you a hint: he was involved in a punch up with a rock'n' roll singer on live TV
For you serious old woodies, what time of the week was it on, and what was was the name of the following show, and who hosted it? I will give you a hint: he was involved in a punch up with a rock'n' roll singer on live TV
VIC USB CNC Kit, SmoothStepper, Gecko Drives, PMDX BOB, Power Supplies
Hi All,
I'm selling a group of new CNC electronic components here:
USB CNC KIT | eBay
There is:
1 x PMDX 126 breakout board
1 x USB SmoothStepper
3 x Gecko G251X stepper motor controllers
2 x power supplies
1 x emergency switch
1 x power switch
All components are new.
Pick up from Carnegie, Victoria is available.
Asking $700 or best offer.
I'm selling a group of new CNC electronic components here:
USB CNC KIT | eBay
There is:
1 x PMDX 126 breakout board
1 x USB SmoothStepper
3 x Gecko G251X stepper motor controllers
2 x power supplies
1 x emergency switch
1 x power switch
All components are new.
Pick up from Carnegie, Victoria is available.
Asking $700 or best offer.
Alexander Punch Manchester - not a woodwork tool.
Sometimes Google is of no use whatsoever. I saw a punch being sold online and it looked interesting so I tried to find out some more information, specifically what it was originally used for (the seller says leather which is why it caught my eye, but I don't think it is).
When I tried to search including the words "Alexander" and "Manchester", Google remains convinced that I'm trying to stalk Alex Ferguson (recently) of Manchester United. It's entirely possible that there is a useful link on the 6th or 7th page of results, but I'm never going to get that far down...
I'm not desperate to find the info, just thought some of you might appreciate the irony in trying to Google words that are common in a different context.
When I tried to search including the words "Alexander" and "Manchester", Google remains convinced that I'm trying to stalk Alex Ferguson (recently) of Manchester United. It's entirely possible that there is a useful link on the 6th or 7th page of results, but I'm never going to get that far down...
I'm not desperate to find the info, just thought some of you might appreciate the irony in trying to Google words that are common in a different context.
Turner advertising
Hi guys.
I have a fetish for Turner screwdrivers and was looking for any advertising that featured them.
Their range of screwdrivers was staggering aswas the variation of markings and colours for the handles. All this is onlyapparent when you take the time to scrutinise each one.
Kenny.
I have a fetish for Turner screwdrivers and was looking for any advertising that featured them.
Their range of screwdrivers was staggering aswas the variation of markings and colours for the handles. All this is onlyapparent when you take the time to scrutinise each one.
Kenny.
Wanted - Festool Domino 6mm dia. cutter
I am after a 6mm dia. Festool Domino Cutter (new or in good used condition) to suit a DF 500 Q-Plus. Happy to pay cash or swap for some timber or a Leuco Topline 300mm dia 96 tooth triple chip sawblade with 30mm bore (near new - has just come back from it's first sharpen).
I am in need of the 6mm cutter in the next few weeks, but will eventually also be after an 8mm bit (but at this stage would only do a swap deal for an 8mm bit, not buy it from you).
Just thought I would give this a try before forking out the $62 (Ouch!) for a new one!
Thanks
I am in need of the 6mm cutter in the next few weeks, but will eventually also be after an 8mm bit (but at this stage would only do a swap deal for an 8mm bit, not buy it from you).
Just thought I would give this a try before forking out the $62 (Ouch!) for a new one!
Thanks
Technique question - A cove in a cross-grain/bowl turning
I know that the basic rule is to cut 'downhill', with the grain, but aren't sure in the case of a cove in the outside of a cylindrical cross-grain turning. To cut with the grain, the cut needs to be started in the middle of the cove, tapering off shallower toward each side, but this doesn't feel right.
It feels more 'right' if I do it like a spindle turning, working from each edge of the cove toward the centre.
Any thoughts/advice appreciated.
(I could use my carbide tools and work either way, but want to use a bowl gouge for more practice.)
It feels more 'right' if I do it like a spindle turning, working from each edge of the cove toward the centre.
Any thoughts/advice appreciated.
(I could use my carbide tools and work either way, but want to use a bowl gouge for more practice.)
Hi from the Gold Coast
Hello to everyone. I stumbled across this forum recently and have spent some time reading bits and pieces. I already have a few posts up but I thought I better introduce myself. My interest in woodworking led me here, I have played around with wood on and off for the past 30 years. Now that the kids are off our hands I find I have more time and my interest has been re kindled. I also have had a fascination with woodturning even at one stage owning a lathe & tools. Sadly I sold those when I moved from Melbourne to the GC back in 2001.
I have already received lots of advice and help from several members here and for that I am very grateful. I am also joining the Gold Coast Woodturners to get some training ad help and looking at buying a lathe in the near future so I can do some turning at home. My background is in metal polishing but these days I do concrete polishing/grinding as well as stone & tile cleaning and sealing. I hope that I can return the help at sometime.
I have already received lots of advice and help from several members here and for that I am very grateful. I am also joining the Gold Coast Woodturners to get some training ad help and looking at buying a lathe in the near future so I can do some turning at home. My background is in metal polishing but these days I do concrete polishing/grinding as well as stone & tile cleaning and sealing. I hope that I can return the help at sometime.
Blackwood tree decided to lie down.
500 mm diam perhaps. Fairly tall. Not quite big enough to slab, but would make good large bowls. Still needs cutting up. Anyone want some? And would like to come and help cut it up? :cute: In Belgrave.
Centering microscope
Hi all. Ive always been keen on the idea of a centering microscope (optical centre punch also on to do list) but given my needs are not high and their prices its clear ill probably never aquire one. BUT I have to ask, has anyone ever thought about making one using a S/H low magnification microsope? Good quality old scopes are a dime a dozen can be had for under $20 - $30 in the U.S. An objective/eyepiece combo with 10X would do nicely. Challenging part would attaching a post to fit in collet and align along optical axis. Even more chellenging would be the cross hairs being in focus with the workpiece.
Thoughts?
Simon
Thoughts?
Simon
Minimum Decal size
I am more than interested in decals and have had some great help from Les and Dorno.
I am wondering how small a decal can be.
I am looking to put decals on some pens for a 50th anniversary Snr. Gents pen. One decal could fit into an area of 45X45mm.
Is this too small??
Another size I am looking at is lettering to fit 35mm X55mm.
I am wondering how small a decal can be.
I am looking to put decals on some pens for a 50th anniversary Snr. Gents pen. One decal could fit into an area of 45X45mm.
Is this too small??
Another size I am looking at is lettering to fit 35mm X55mm.
The Games ?.
Just a little bit to do with wood. I may be right, but not real sure, almost all The Competitors who stood on the Dias, received, what looked like a Small Wooden Bowl with a Pierced Natural Edge, but mainly in the Swimming, as I didn't notice the Runners get one. I think the Cyclists also received one. Did others notice that. If that is so, then The Turner or Turners who made heaps of these Bowls, did a mighty job, & wood have had to make close to 100.
Block Plane Builds
G'day all,
I am wanting to make a timber block plane ... something that looks sexy if you know what I mean. I have done a few searches here but cant find anything. Looking for some ideas for a build.
If anyone can help with some pics or links that would be appreciated.
Also some advice on timbers ... I have some figured Red Gum, lemon scented gum, tallow wood, sugar gum. There is probably some other stuff lying around too. The style I had in mind was a laminated style so was thinking lighter centre with redgum on the sides. It is for a gift to someone in the states so wanting to use Aussie timbers.
Thanks
Dave the turning cowboy
turning wood into art
I am wanting to make a timber block plane ... something that looks sexy if you know what I mean. I have done a few searches here but cant find anything. Looking for some ideas for a build.
If anyone can help with some pics or links that would be appreciated.
Also some advice on timbers ... I have some figured Red Gum, lemon scented gum, tallow wood, sugar gum. There is probably some other stuff lying around too. The style I had in mind was a laminated style so was thinking lighter centre with redgum on the sides. It is for a gift to someone in the states so wanting to use Aussie timbers.
Thanks
Dave the turning cowboy
turning wood into art
A benchtop made from floorboards
Dear all, I am considering glueing together our old floor boards (tassie oak) to make a kitchen benchtop about 1800x900mm.
I intend to laminate three layers of flooring to achieve a 60mm thickness, then trim the edges and sand/seal/polish.
The middle layer will run in an opposite direction for strength, I imagine.
The benchtop will have beneath it a hydronic radiator.
My doubts and unknowns:
- what kind of glue will be most effective?
- how to avoid warping the bench by the heat? (I'm told this happened to a laminated ikea bench.)
- what sealing product would be sensible on a benchtop destined for food preparation?
Many thanks in advance.
rubberwood
I intend to laminate three layers of flooring to achieve a 60mm thickness, then trim the edges and sand/seal/polish.
The middle layer will run in an opposite direction for strength, I imagine.
The benchtop will have beneath it a hydronic radiator.
My doubts and unknowns:
- what kind of glue will be most effective?
- how to avoid warping the bench by the heat? (I'm told this happened to a laminated ikea bench.)
- what sealing product would be sensible on a benchtop destined for food preparation?
Many thanks in advance.
rubberwood
A few hammers
I bought these in Osaka on the weekend. Prices are in yen.
Not sure if I paid too much.
Not sure if I paid too much.
QLD Australian Woodworker Mags 80+ copies
80+copies of Australian Woodworker mag. The earliest I cansee is #56 (July August 1994) through to #151 (June 2010). Almost fullycontinuous but missing a few here and there. All in good condition and lots ofgreat info. Asking $60 the lot.
Boat trailer draw bar modification
Hi all, Hoping for a bit of guidance on a boat trailer. I have an late 1960's ski boat on the original trailer and i would like to put brakes on the trailer to bring it up to current compliance. Also looking at extending the draw bar a little to hopefully improve backing the trailer as the nose of the boat comes close to hitting the back of the ute when reversing and it's just generally a bit of a pig to reverse. As you can see the previous owner has cut and moved the nose bar to keep the boat back on the trailer to make it easier to reverse. However this results in shifting a lot of the weight too far over the axle. 
The chassis channel is around 3.2mm thick and there is a approx 60mm angle 6.5mm thick set back with the first roller fixed to it. My thoughts are to cut out the existing tow hitch plate and insert (and weld in) a new draw bar that will continue through to a new cross piece that will also be used to add a post for a winch mount and so get rid of the old bar that goes over the nose of the boat. So I was wondering what size draw bar should I use and how much longer can I safely extend it past its current set up? I was thinking of working out where the nose of the boat will sit and then locate the cross bar around this area and run the winch post from the cross bar. The end result would be similar to the pick below. 
Any help is appreciated. Cheers p.s. sorry for the formatting, for some reason the formatting isn't recognizing spaces etc.
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