VIC Atlantic cedar bowl blank

mercredi 30 avril 2014

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Atlantic cedar, cut approx 4-5 weeks ago, great to turn green seasons well, auction is for your choice of any ONE of the three blanks pictured, or take the other two for the same price(each) as the original bid. Dimensions are 310x310x110mm free of any checks or splits. The line across the end grain is a saw line as it had to be cut from both sides. Any questions happy to help. Pick up would be best, postage is dynamite, each one is approx 9kgs blanks 2&3 have a very small amount of natural edge on one corner. sorry no Paypal located in Yinnar Victoria(latrobe valley)




A small miter/ tenon saw with attitude and a sash.

A customer wanted a miter saw he could use as a tenon saw from time to time. We discussed back and forth filings, size etc. Finally I settled on a 20" tooth line with 4.5" under spine x 0.025" plate. 10ppi filed with 20* fleam and 15* rake. I considered a more aggressive rake. But decided against it since this is predominately a miter saw. Then I threw in a shaped spine. Just because. BTW, The saw still needs to have the spine engraved.



The 14" sash is just American walnut. 14" x 3.5" under spine. 11ppi with 8* rake. And there you have it. More of the same but a little different.

IMG_1404_zps3735a315.jpgIMG_1403b_zps13047698.jpgIMG_1389b_zps91a0671a.jpgIMG_1387b_zpsf0c90e51.jpg





Box of $$$$

​Box of $$$$. Incredible skill and well worth a look. Cheers, Fred




maleny wood expo and the weekend warrior

The Peterson Weekend Warrior portable sawmill will be at the Maleny Wood Expo . Our QLD rep Ian Davison along with Jake Peterson will be demonstrating they will wave 3 logs of unknown species to slice and dice. Wish I could get there too.



thanks Dennis


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Guy builds a table - cool video

I'm not sure if this has been posted in here already (please remove if it has) but I thought this was a good little time lapse video of a dining table build :2tsup:



<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/psgKQLwiyY0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>



I must be doing something wrong because the embed code isn't working properly for me when I preview the post. The direct link is below if it doesn't work when I actually post this thread :)



http://ift.tt/QOBem3






Cheap particle board for shed lining

Hi all, just a quick heads up. Sam's Warehouse at Moorabbin Airport DFO is closing down. They are selling sheets of 18mm particle board 600mm×1800mm at $2 per sheet or 3 for $5 or 10 for $10.

I picked some up yesterday and was told by the staff that there are approximately 700 sheets available.

I reckon they'll be great to line the shed with.




Xylophone kits @ Carbatec

I just happened to stumble across the Carbatec website where this new product has been featured:

http://ift.tt/R3RJKU

Just wanted to see if anybody has seen or built one and what the feedback would be.



Thanks



Stinky




NSW Cheap 18 inch Bandsaw

Not my listing, but i noticed a cheapish 18 inch bandsaw on Gumtree.



http://ift.tt/1pO9hdV




Epoxy resin

Another question!



I have read about finishing with a clear epoxy ( liquid glass), Filling holes in wood with epoxy, glueing with epoxy such as araldite.



So what's the difference?



Could I use west instead of araldite for glue? When needed around and about at home.



Can I fill wood, finish and glue with west epoxy for example? Or does it only serve one purpose as marine epoxy?



Love to know, which you use to fill gaps ? which as an adhesive?




QLD Stanley USA no.6, Marples no. 5 1/2

Stanley USA no.6 and a Marples no. 5 1/2.

Good restoration projects.

The Stanley requires a new rear handle as the one present is home made and the Marples requires a few more parts.

The buy it now price includes postage Aust. wide.:o


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Some great Steam Stuff from Jay Leno

Many of you have possibly seen these, but for those who haven't or if it has been some time since you viewed them, it might be time for a second look:wink:

http://ift.tt/QZc5VT

http://ift.tt/PQryqi
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzhMUsy_wl0

http://ift.tt/QZc5VV



I must say that I find Jay Leno very engaging and generous to a fault, in sharing with us his list of exotic historic cars and explaining their significance and any relevant technology. I recon anyone working for him would have a most interesting if challenging, job. It's not every day that you could hop from a Datsun 1600, to a Blower Bentley, then to any one of a heap of Bugattis, or steam powered cars and the list goes on and on.........




Wallins Sweden Chisels

There is a set of chisels for sale on a local auction site. They looks superficially similar to Bergs, the handles are the same pattern. They're marked "WALLINS SWEEDEN" on the blades and have a crocodile logo on the handles.



I've not found anything useful in my searches on what they're like to use, so if anyone has some, or knows anything about them, I'd be happy to hear from you.



I've put a little bid in, in the meanwhile, because I doubt they'll be too awful, but I'm not too sure how high I should go if bidding gets busy later on...




How's this for a Peppercorn Burl

Dirty big old Peppercorn tree that is completely covered in burl. Nah, not allowed to touch it :(



burled tree plaque.jpg burled tree.jpg



burled tree burl.jpg



Yes Tim, looks like I exaggerated a bit, dam plaque has caught me out :rolleyes:


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Would these work for the base of a workbench?

Guys



I am looking at building a new large workbench and at first I was going to use two(2) x (90x90mm) timber for each leg however even in pine is so expensive.



So each leg would therefore be 180mm wide by 90mm thick.



Today at Bunnings I noticed these Jarrah sleepers.



Well they do not look like sleepers in the traditional sense.



What do you think? Would they make a decent enough base for the bench?



The link to them on the Bunnings website is here: http://ift.tt/PQrx5y

a9c33607-24fd-40eb-b8bc-285ec06f22f0.jpg





minimum screw depth

Hi, I have a few spare hardwood decking boards and is thinking about making an outdoor table.



But unlike an outdoor table, I want to screw them from the underside to achieve a cleaner look.

But my decking boards are only 19mm thick. So how do I attach them I like to use screws but thought screws need 20-30mm embedment.

Anyone care to shed any light on this?



Cheers.




Different types of finish + How they are removed..

Hi all,



I have asked a similar question once before but was curious to grow on my knowlege.



My understanding thus far... Poly is a great, fairly tough finish, dries clear if water based and is for lack of better analogy, like liquid plastic.



Stains can be incorporated with poly or done first then finished.



Oils are a nice natural finish that you can the gloss over with wax or the like for protection.



I have not yet had the chance o rmoney to use shellac, laquer or varnish..



I understand shellac come from crystals from a bug, mixed with ethanol which evaporates once applied. Not as tough as poly and am not sure if you need to put anything over it like wax or poly?



I also have not used laquer or varnish.



So what exactly is varnish... apparently poly is one of three types? Does it incorporate a stain?



I should mention I have been trying to learn woodwork with small boxes and furniture items. So Oils seem to work nicely, and from my reading shellac is a go-to finish for furniture? Would you ever use laquer? When would you choose to use Varnish?



I guess to sumarise this maze of questions... when is each most approporiate, what are your guys favorites? What exactly is laquer and varnish and when are they approporitate to use?



----



Thats one half of my question haha. I figured whilst I was here I would clarify on removal of each.



I have read you can use stripper--- which essentially redissolves the shellac etc to remove these coats?



Can every type of finish be sanded back without use of stripper...poly,shellac,varnish and laquer?



Have an old dining table at home that has seen much better days (thinking of doing a little refurb) and sanding it back and re-coating it. Ill start another thread on this when I get around to the project, but overall Im wondering if regardless of how its finished if I can sand it back or if Ill need to use stripper etc...?



Thanks everyone




trend pro air shield

Well I have charged my new airpro for 24 hours as instructed and have used it in anger for the first time. WOW what a difference



I have been using disposable masks, a face shield and dust extractor at the end of a turning session dust in the beard, eyes, nose and throat with the Airpro nothing face is clean feels good.



the noise takes a minute or two to get used to but it disappears into the background and the same with the weight .



I cant rate it high enough should have done this years ago



anyone thinking about getting one do so you wont regret it.



only negative I can see will be the battery charger it doesnt switch off after fully charging and can cook the batteries has anyone else come up with a fix for this?



thanks Dennis




Structural beam position

Hi guys and girls

Just a question on a beam or one of the beams where the top story of the house/back wall (Brick venier) sits on.

The beam it self is positioned on the inner brick wall (Double brick) bottom story. Is this ok? I will pass this to an engineer but I would like your opinion.















Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...




A Royal find, for the Royal baby ...

The style may not be to your taste, but the workmanship is exquisite and the story remarkable. A friend of mine discovered this piece and did the provenance research on it. I've seen it close up and in person, and it really is beautifully made. It's now being made available to an interested collector (for the right price of course!)



You can read a bit more about the story here. So tell your British friends that an "ashes stealing probable convict has your Queen's Cradle."





Royal-Cradle-resized.jpg



Cheers,

Af.


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About Time

mardi 29 avril 2014

I thought it was about "time" I made another of these :) A gold and gunmetal Phoenix ,and some watch parts (who said a stopped watch was no use) hehe, some interesting by play on this one ,one rising from the ashes,and one rising from the Junk heap :) Cheers ~ John


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Green Mosaic FP

Hi Mates,

Haven't posted a pen here in quite awhile. I thought some of you may have interest in this one. Or not! It is a Green Mosaic acrylic blank with aluminium components. Number 5 Heritance nib. Thank you for looking!


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Heads Up Maleny Wood Expo

Maleny Wood Expo is on this coming week-end and the weather forecast is looking good :2tsup:...here's a sample of what i'll be taking to the show :) my theme this year is 'Fiddleback Maple' :;...see you's there...MM:2tsup:


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Hello from Syndey

Hello all,



Have lurked around these forums for a while, getting useful information. Thought it might be time to join up.



I'm a keen DIYer who was tackled a few small projects, and am always keen to learn more.



Current project is a small shed / detached studio, which I'm happy to say is nearing completion.



Cheers




Vintage planer U toob

Fitting Triton Dustbag

Hi all



I am attempting to fit my triton dustbag to my workcenter 2000 but cannot for the life of me figure it out. I think maybe I am missing some parts for this.



I am trying to follow the instructions from this PDF.



http://ift.tt/1iFHqYr



Here are the pieces that I currently have:



IMAG0664.jpg

IMAG0666.jpg

IMAG0667.jpg

IMAG0668.jpg



Is this all that I need? From the instructions PDF I do not have the foam piece in figure 1 and also the black piece in figure 3.



From the front cover on the instructions PDF it looks like the bag wraps around the silver rails of the table, but how does it do this? Also in my 4th picture, what are the velcro openings for in each corner?



Sorry if this post if confusing, I've just spent a couple of hours trying to figure this one out, thought I'd ask you trusty lot on this great site



Edit: Sorry about the attached image at the bottom, don't know how to remove it.



Cheers



Joe


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my workshop ducting, completed with photos.

I've spent some stupid amount of money on my new modular duct(about $2000 AUD), very fast to install and can be reused, still require 2 persons to do it, no welding and silicon required, everything locks together nicely, the thickness of the duct is about 0.7mm, the ducting are made in Denmark by JKF Industri



some basic info:

20inch impeller, 4kw motor, 1450RPM, bag house unit by Holytek

main duct size: 250mm (should I have used 200mm like BobL said?)

sander dust hood: 150mm

total distance from sander to fan inlet: 3m (vertical+horizontal)



combination machine dust hood: 3 x 100mm

total distance from combination to fan: 6-7m (vertical+horizontal)



experience to date:


· the suction for the wide belt sander is very strong with the original dust hood(150mm) only, I tried with a secondary duct/hood(150mm) at the back of the sander, the suction on the top hood decreased quite a lot.

· the suction for the 3x100 is considerably weeker... the suction is not affected with WBS original dust hood blast gate being opened or closed, any thoughts?



photo 1.jpg



photo 2.jpg



photo 3.jpg



photo 4.jpg



photo 5.jpg



photo 7.jpg


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Another Tudor Dollhouse

Some time ago I built a dollhouse which ended up going to my grandson and his wife. When it went out the door SWMBO just about tripped over her bottom lip so in a rash moment I said I would build her another one. After a bit of searching I came across this . . .

Dollhouse.jpg

. . . along with all the instructions at the British Collector’s Club website

http://www.collectors-club-of-great-...Part-1/_ft1190

Not wanting a large house I downloaded all the pages into a Word document and converted all measurements to ‘half-scale’ ie 1:24. In the last couple of months I have commenced building and then realised I had not taken photos nor posted progress – my most humble apologies, especially to ‘Crowie’ who demands full disclosure on all such projects. So I will start now.

TMH0001.JPG TMH0002.JPG

I have constructed the first room (the tavern) and the walls to the ‘Market Place’ and am at the stage of putting in the ceiling beams.



The walls are 3mm or 6mm ply with 2mm x 6mm strips of walnut stained pine. The floors are 2mm x 9mm merbau (I think) recovered from a builders skip. These strips I made myself from boards put through a thicknesser to the largest dimension and then cut into 2mm strips on the tablesaw.



The brickwork is made as individual bricks cut from painted egg cartons . . .

TMH0004.JPG

Top to bottom: raw carton, painted, cut into 3mm strips, cut into 3mm x 10mm bricks.

The chimney will be plastered and the few bricks on it will be left exposed to represent crumbling, distressed plasterwork.



A removable front panel has been built and finished on the outside. The original instructions call for the use of purchased windows but at half-scale I had to make my own using 1mm x 2mm strips for framing. The inside is yet to be done.

TMH0003.JPG

Lighting is via 3mm warm white LEDs and the fireplaces have flashing 5mm red, orange and amber LEDs embedded in the logs. I found an outfit in Tasmania who are web based and supply the 3mm LEDs at 15c each as opposed to the $2.45 I was quoted by the local branch of a National electronics supply place! Anyway, wiring on the side and rear will be hidden by false panels rather than taped over as per the original instructions.



More when I get organised and active.


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Beginner's CNC Routing Question

Greetings.



I have recently been reading this and a number of other CNC related forums looking for information about CNC Routers with a view to purchasing one soon. I started my working career with many years working in industrial electronics, and then moving into computer support and computer programming. Now that I'm semi-retired, I've moved into woodworking. CNC Routers seems like a way for me to combine my electronics. computing, and woodworking interests, whilst using a CNC Router for a business venture I have in mind.



I have a few CNC Routing related questions that hope some of the CNC Gurus might be able to provide answers to .....






  • I understand what the three axes are (or at least I think I do) with respect to CNC Routing (x, y, z axis - or left/right, back/forward, and up/down). However, quite a few CNC Routers that I've read about talk about being 4, 5 or 6 axis machines (but not much detail is provided). What are these aditional axes, and what sort of practical wood machiining applications call for these additional axes.




A CNC Router sourced from China is about the only one that I could afford. I've looked at some of the ones marketed by Australian company's (such as the LAGUNA CNC Machines sold by Gregory Machinery in Brisbane http://ift.tt/1iFHnfs). I realise that buying from an Australian supplier offers lower risk, and better technical support, although I suspect that the technical support will come from the US Supplier, or even from their OEM manufacturer. Unfortunately, the cost for these Australian marketed machines is well above my budget for what will be a very speculative business venture. I also don't want to build from scratch or build from a frame myself, as I really want to concentrate the majority of my energies on the business idea, and learning how to use the machine effeciently and productively. So, a few questions regarding purchasing CNC Routers ex China ......



This forum contains many entries where members have related their tales of woe and sad stories of purchasing from China, with problems such as; Machinery delivered not matching the machinery advertised, Machinery being inadequately packaged and damaged in transit, Poor quality assembly of mechanical and electrical components, lack of adequate manuals and documentation, and the ubiquitous "you can fix it - machine is OK" response to problems.






  • Can any forum members recommend any reputable CNC Router suppliers in China ? Suppliers that they have used and that they have had reasonably good results from. (Please don't post responses that rubbish any suppliers. Let's focus on discussing suppliers in China who provide good reliable products and service.)






Lastly, a CNC software related question. I haven't owned a Windows computer since 1999. I use Linux for all my computing needs, mainly because that is where my technical experience and expertise is focused, and because I believe that in most respects, Linux does a better job that Windows or OSX, in the majority of cases. There are a number of free Linux programs that generate g-code (e.g LinuxCNC http://www.linuxcnc.org), along with many CAD/CAM programs that can be used to produce the working designs and prepare them for CAM use. http://ift.tt/1klTWdj is a link to a good article that gives a few examples of Free and Open Source Linux software that provides a complete CNC tool chain under Linux. So, my question:






  • Are there people on this forum who have experience using Linux computers to run their CNC Routers ?






Regards,



Roy




Ebony and Blackwood Clickersr

Here is last nights efforts.



Ebony and a Blackwood.



Executive Clicker kit from Timberbits in Chrome.



Finished with 20 coats of thin CA and polished to 12000 grit micro mesh. No other finishing...I don't see the point!



Thanks for looking



ImageUploadedByTapatalk1398818952.688922.jpg





Smooth finish with CA

After an absence from pen turning I have returned and am comparing the pens that I made before to the ones I'm making now. I'm currently turning Redgum with some Fiddleback and some Jarrah. I'm finding that I don't get the same level of smoothness these days that I use to get on the final finish. I use to turn Olive wood a bit and find that those pens are silky smooth even to this day. The Redgum feels smooth on the lathe but after finishing with CA and Swirl Remover I can feel some micro-ripples, can actually see them if I hold the pen up to the light. Now when I turn the blank on the lathe and sand it, it is perfectly smooth as far as I can see. After applying the CA and I only use the Thin type I micro-mesh starting and spending a fair bit of time with the 400 grit equivalent, it all feels fairly smooth and then I progress through the other grits. I may be being pedantic but I'd like these pens to be as smooth feeling as the others I have done previously. Should I expect that these timbers give me the same amount of smoothness? Should they be sealed first, they don't look to be particularly open-grained? I apply b/w 15 and 20 coats of thin CA, sometimes I use accelerator depending on outside weather.




Whats's a simple clear table top finish with maintenance in mind?

I've got a table (desk actually) here that I've just sanded the coffee-mug-ringed top back to timber. It's nice but nothing fancy, it came from a furniture surplus dealer.



I was just about to coat the top with Varathane clear water-based polyurethane, just because I have it.



But I'm wondering how difficult it will be to sand it off in say 8 years time when the surface will be looking tired and will have to be restored.



Anyone know?



Other than that, what else would be a good finish that doesn't need fuss like specialised stuff that I can't get locally, or spray equipment or 2-pack whatever? And is easy to sand back or otherwise maintain.



Ta, Ian




New work from TOKYO: a wooden geared clock-like

New work fromTOKYO: a wooden geared clock-like





Please let me present a new work related to wooden geared clock-like and automaton.



I am happy if youcan enjoy.



myoshiiky



http://ift.tt/1gDELym

http://ift.tt/1iF3fYd






Lake Goldsmith steam rally

Hi guys,

it's on again this weekend.

http://ift.tt/1o1wy7z



Phil




Lake Goldsmith

The Lake Goldsmith rally is on again this weekend 3rd and 4th guys.

I am actually going this time and will be there on the Saturday.

http://ift.tt/1o1wy7z



Phil




Reversing a single phase motor


ADDED BY ADMIN



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No liability is accepted by UBeaut or the Wood Working Forum's administrators

or moderators for advice offered by members posting replies

or asking questions regarding electrical work.

We strongly advise contacting a Licensed Tradeperson for all electrical work.


WARNING



Information supplied within posts is not to be considered as detailed formal instructions to complete a task.

Members following such information do so at their own risk








I have a pulley driven extractor fan that was driven by a small 3Phase motor but I wanted to swap the 3 phase motor out for a small Single Phase (SP) motor from an old clothes dryer.



The SP motor turned out to have a number of problems and if I had stopped to carefully examine the motor I would have moved to another but I fixed each of the problems as they arose so once you invest some time into something the more you want to see it through to completion



The first problem was it did not seem to have sufficient cooling.

Unlike many extractor fans it will not be sitting in the air stream it generates so it needed some cooling.

Ss I made and added a fan.













Next the pressed galv metal pulley flange looked a bit flimsy so I replaced it with a beefier one





After doing all this, it turned out the wretched thing ran the wrong way and there were no accessible wiring connector available outside the motor to reverse it.



Even when I opened up the motor and traced back along the connectors to find the junction I needed, it turned out to be buried under two coils of wire squished together.

See next picture.

I prised the coils apart using a pair of small pliers with the jaws wrapped in cloth. the Green arrow in the picture shows the direction I had to pry that coil to get to the yellow wire buried underneath it.

The yellow wire was connected to two lacquered dividedwires and I had to cut off one of these and then attached a new wire to the that I could take it outside the motor.







Here you can see the separated wires





Then silver brazed and new (tan coloured) wire, Squish everything back in place, stitch up the coils, cover in HT silicone and reassemble the motor.





Here is where the connections take place.

If it looks like a dogs breakfast - it is.





For anticlockwise direction, tan was originally connected to yellow inside the motor and yellow was connected to the brown (Active) on the unclog AC mains cable

The blue wire near the green arrow was connected to the other blue (Neutral) wire from the supply.

Red is the end of the starter coil that is connected to neutral and switched in-out by the starter/centrifugal switch.



To reverse the motor simply entailed swapping the positions of the tan and blue wires (near the green arrow) coming out of the motor

Anyway it runs correctly and I am finally happy with it.

Whew!


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