Last week I purchased a 1962 Walden Drill Press and I have set about restoring it. This thread is an outcropping from this thread, I was told I might get more help over this way in regards to my restoration questions. The drill press came with a three phase motor which I will stick to however we will be outfitting the machine with a VFD 240 to 400v.
This is what the DP looked like when I got it:
IMG_7588.JPG IMG_7587.JPGIMG_7592.JPGIMG_7591.JPGIMG_7589.JPG
Had a go at stripping some of the worst rust and paint of the sheet metal enclosure and a little bit from the casting. Just to see how it would take. It took my 2 hours to get it this stage about 1/10 done, I used a wire brush in a hand drill to remove the loose stuff and a drum sander attached to the drill again. If I was to do it all with abrasives I suspect that it would be close to 20 hours of work to do the whole drill press. There are still deep pitting that has not come out from the sheet metal.
Tannic Acid Rust Remover has been suggested and I am looking into it for the sheet metal hood.
Here are some photos.
IMG_4607.jpgIMG_4606.jpegIMG_4605.jpegIMG_4604.jpgIMG_4603.jpgIMG_4602.jpg
The original motor that came with the drill press worked however it was a grease mess. So I decided to use another 3phase motor from the same era to replace it i.e. this one.
Here are the details:
Horsepower 0.75
RPM 1440
Volts 400
Amps 15
Rating Continues
Wind Star
0 - 1.jpg01.jpg02.jpg04.jpg
I have now disassembled the whole drill press.
I am now I working on polishing the smaller components.
This is the first piece that I have restored to my basic satisfaction.
Originally it had a few dings and pitting. The I left some of the pitting on the surface with the numbers as I did not want to abrade off the markings.
I removed the dings using a lapping plate and same wet and dry from 80 grit to 600 grit, then I polished with Autosol Metal Polish. Its not perfect in that there are some errant scratches so I am thinking of giving it a light buff with a buffing wheel using the bench grinder. There are a few minor dings on the very edge were the knurling starts, again I left them as I did not want to damage the knurling.
It took about 3 hours.
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I used some kerosene to strip the grease off the spindle, I also removed the surface rust from the morse taper. However it would require a huge amount of abrasives to fully restore, however since the morse taper is broken I will need to replace it.
Jhovel was right, 2nd Morse Taper is broken that is why the nuts were inserted to hold the chuck. The problem is that the c-clip is broken, I had a look online on how to remove the C-clip and the methods are rather drastic involving grinding into the c-clip with an angle grinder, does anyone have a less dramatic solution? It looks like I will need to replace the morse taper the chuck however is a nice Jacobs Chuck Made in English Sheffield, so I am thinking of cleaning and reusing.
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There is some damage to this component I do not know the name. One of the teeth has been badly chipped, others have minor chips, will this be bad enough to hinder my machine. Can this be replaced?
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I placed my order for the Powtran VFD, it should arrive end of this coming week I am told.
I also notice this, is this normal or bad? The tenons are not parallel. This holds one end of the quill spring.
0 - 7.jpg
Here are photos of the disassembled drill press major components on the floor, with the smaller pieces on a makeshift table. I used kerosene to strip most of the grease off the parts however the cast iron head of the drill press is caked on with 50 years of grease I will need to get a proper degreaser and a wire brush to scrub the inside clean. The grease is mixed with metal shavings and I do not want them working there way into something critical.
I made progress on a few small components they are cleaning up nicely over the next few days I will have them finished. I have ordered a few Poly Strip Disk from Smith & Arrow to use with an angle grinder I am hoping that they will help me strip the paint and rust of the major components. I will also getting a few soft wheels and wire brush wheel for cleaning up the smaller components.
IMG_4628.jpgIMG_4627.jpg
This is what the DP looked like when I got it:
IMG_7588.JPG IMG_7587.JPGIMG_7592.JPGIMG_7591.JPGIMG_7589.JPG
Had a go at stripping some of the worst rust and paint of the sheet metal enclosure and a little bit from the casting. Just to see how it would take. It took my 2 hours to get it this stage about 1/10 done, I used a wire brush in a hand drill to remove the loose stuff and a drum sander attached to the drill again. If I was to do it all with abrasives I suspect that it would be close to 20 hours of work to do the whole drill press. There are still deep pitting that has not come out from the sheet metal.
Tannic Acid Rust Remover has been suggested and I am looking into it for the sheet metal hood.
Here are some photos.
IMG_4607.jpgIMG_4606.jpegIMG_4605.jpegIMG_4604.jpgIMG_4603.jpgIMG_4602.jpg
The original motor that came with the drill press worked however it was a grease mess. So I decided to use another 3phase motor from the same era to replace it i.e. this one.
Here are the details:
Horsepower 0.75
RPM 1440
Volts 400
Amps 15
Rating Continues
Wind Star
0 - 1.jpg01.jpg02.jpg04.jpg
I have now disassembled the whole drill press.
I am now I working on polishing the smaller components.
This is the first piece that I have restored to my basic satisfaction.
Originally it had a few dings and pitting. The I left some of the pitting on the surface with the numbers as I did not want to abrade off the markings.
I removed the dings using a lapping plate and same wet and dry from 80 grit to 600 grit, then I polished with Autosol Metal Polish. Its not perfect in that there are some errant scratches so I am thinking of giving it a light buff with a buffing wheel using the bench grinder. There are a few minor dings on the very edge were the knurling starts, again I left them as I did not want to damage the knurling.
It took about 3 hours.
0 - 4.jpg0 - 3.jpg0 - 2.jpg0 - 1.jpg
I used some kerosene to strip the grease off the spindle, I also removed the surface rust from the morse taper. However it would require a huge amount of abrasives to fully restore, however since the morse taper is broken I will need to replace it.
Jhovel was right, 2nd Morse Taper is broken that is why the nuts were inserted to hold the chuck. The problem is that the c-clip is broken, I had a look online on how to remove the C-clip and the methods are rather drastic involving grinding into the c-clip with an angle grinder, does anyone have a less dramatic solution? It looks like I will need to replace the morse taper the chuck however is a nice Jacobs Chuck Made in English Sheffield, so I am thinking of cleaning and reusing.
0 - 9.jpg0 - 8.jpg
There is some damage to this component I do not know the name. One of the teeth has been badly chipped, others have minor chips, will this be bad enough to hinder my machine. Can this be replaced?
0 - 5.jpg0 - 6.jpg
I placed my order for the Powtran VFD, it should arrive end of this coming week I am told.
I also notice this, is this normal or bad? The tenons are not parallel. This holds one end of the quill spring.
0 - 7.jpg
Here are photos of the disassembled drill press major components on the floor, with the smaller pieces on a makeshift table. I used kerosene to strip most of the grease off the parts however the cast iron head of the drill press is caked on with 50 years of grease I will need to get a proper degreaser and a wire brush to scrub the inside clean. The grease is mixed with metal shavings and I do not want them working there way into something critical.
I made progress on a few small components they are cleaning up nicely over the next few days I will have them finished. I have ordered a few Poly Strip Disk from Smith & Arrow to use with an angle grinder I am hoping that they will help me strip the paint and rust of the major components. I will also getting a few soft wheels and wire brush wheel for cleaning up the smaller components.
IMG_4628.jpgIMG_4627.jpg
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