Canvas for machine tool covers

I now seem to have a number of machine tools, and some do not get a lot of use and need protecting from dust and such.



Canvas covers seem the most appropriate material, but what sort of canvas is best to make the covers out of?



I would be looking at buying a reasonable sized roll to make up the covers... In fact I wonder if a pulley system above the machine to raise the cover so it is out of the way when the machine is in use... The shed has a fairly high roof...

NSW Lie Nielsen dovetail saw

Hi all,





Up for sale is my 15 PPI Lie Nielsen dovetail saw with a leather case. I have only used it a couple of times and it's in great condition. I prefer to use a Japanese saw for dovetailing now and can't justify owning this as well.







Pick up from Lower Blue Mountains (Near Winmalee) or I can post anywhere in Australia.







Sorry for the poor quality pics!







Buy it now for $140







Cheers,







Andy

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which chisels for general use.

Hi folks,



First time poster, long time stalker.



I'm just trying to get an idea of what sort of japanese chisels to buy as a first off.

I'm just taking the tenuous steps down the path of japanese handwork, and will most likely develop a bad tool addiction to expensive blacksmith branded tools.



I'm looking at getting some Funahiro bench chisels, but have a few questions.

I need something for general/close to every use, and i'm aware there are a number of different styles of japanese chisels. However $$ dictate what i'll buy to start off.

I've read that some japanese bench chisels are not all that suitable for dovetailing, as they sides are ground fairly wide, and cause fibres to bruise when chiselling the corners. I know that some blacksmiths make 'dovetail specific' chisels, so should i look at getting some standard bench, and a few dovetail specific to cut in the corners? Or is that being too finicky.



Until i can scrape together some serious dosh (/convince the mistress that hand tools are more important than home loans) i'll be paring, cutting in joint, (not mortising) with these so yes, just go the bench chisels? or bench + a few specialisations. ie,



Also if you can help with a few use ideas. Hiramachi chisels are for paring mostly? Chu tataki (hss?) for mortising? and from what i can tell, what some blacksmiths advertise as 'timber chisels' are basically oire nomi with a longer shank/handle to bring it more in line with western bench chisels?

I actually just read, halfway through posting this, that shinogi (diamond back) chisels are specifically designed for dovetailing, while im guessing they're also quite practical for every other use. I may have answered my own question ha.



Sorry this is a bit of a rambling post, I guess i would just like some general advise on where i should start, given that i can't afford more than 1 set this year i think. ( and i think ill be waiting half the year for it anyway.)



thanks for the possible help.

Lachlan

Japanese Chisels - which to buy, dovetailing and general use

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Router table/cabinet

I have been building a new cabinet to mount my new triton router. I made the carcass from 19mm ply that was screwed and glued into dado's and half laps so it is quite solid. For the top I used mdf with a sub frame of 70 x 35 pine straightened on jointer to give a solid flat surface to attach the mdf then laminated to finish. I then routed T track and mitre track into the top which has pine framing under each for solid fixing and strength. I purchased a new ogee style and rail set and a three wing panel raising bit to make the doors for this cabinet. I was very happy with how these new bits performed the panel raising bit gave a good finish to the end grain of the red cedar which can be very difficult with tearout. Now on to the problems (that would be me) it has been a long while since I had done any raised panel doors (I have been in the furniture cabinet industry for 40+ years) I decided to use biscuits to join the panels and set them out as they were all draw fronts except one door to cover the router in the centre and as you will see the draw panels are quite small to be cut from one panel to have the grain running through.











Guess the mistake?

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shall I live with it or do it again

while waiting for my cannon barrel to be blued, I embarked on another project.



Its one of those dove tail type Knurlers



got the body done and the two slides ...really happy with that



the shaft called for left hand and right hand threads...first time doing that on the lathe and I am happy with result...really really happy..threads both internal and external look and measure excellently



can any one recall my first attempt at making a fly cutter and Dave J politely informed me that I had it wrong..until I told him it was a left handed one



well i have done it again...the shaft was supposed to have LH thread at top and Rh at bottom...While I was standing on may head (as one does when they are having a seniors moment) I made rh at top and lh at bottom.



this of course means that to apply pressure for the dovetail cutters to leave their mark I will have to turn adjusting nut anticlockwise



what do i do...make a new one or live with it:D:D:D

QLD wanted camphor laurel slabs in cairns tableland area

from 30-40-50mm thick dry and colourfull ,call if you have some reasonable price offered cheers Bob 0488937387