Router table/cabinet

I have been building a new cabinet to mount my new triton router. I made the carcass from 19mm ply that was screwed and glued into dado's and half laps so it is quite solid. For the top I used mdf with a sub frame of 70 x 35 pine straightened on jointer to give a solid flat surface to attach the mdf then laminated to finish. I then routed T track and mitre track into the top which has pine framing under each for solid fixing and strength. I purchased a new ogee style and rail set and a three wing panel raising bit to make the doors for this cabinet. I was very happy with how these new bits performed the panel raising bit gave a good finish to the end grain of the red cedar which can be very difficult with tearout. Now on to the problems (that would be me) it has been a long while since I had done any raised panel doors (I have been in the furniture cabinet industry for 40+ years) I decided to use biscuits to join the panels and set them out as they were all draw fronts except one door to cover the router in the centre and as you will see the draw panels are quite small to be cut from one panel to have the grain running through.











Guess the mistake?

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shall I live with it or do it again

while waiting for my cannon barrel to be blued, I embarked on another project.



Its one of those dove tail type Knurlers



got the body done and the two slides ...really happy with that



the shaft called for left hand and right hand threads...first time doing that on the lathe and I am happy with result...really really happy..threads both internal and external look and measure excellently



can any one recall my first attempt at making a fly cutter and Dave J politely informed me that I had it wrong..until I told him it was a left handed one



well i have done it again...the shaft was supposed to have LH thread at top and Rh at bottom...While I was standing on may head (as one does when they are having a seniors moment) I made rh at top and lh at bottom.



this of course means that to apply pressure for the dovetail cutters to leave their mark I will have to turn adjusting nut anticlockwise



what do i do...make a new one or live with it:D:D:D

QLD wanted camphor laurel slabs in cairns tableland area

from 30-40-50mm thick dry and colourfull ,call if you have some reasonable price offered cheers Bob 0488937387

Question regarding old bandsaws

Hi, looking for some opinions, I recently bought a used, 17" very old cast iron meat bandsaw from a guy who used to use it for woodwork. It uses a 3 phase motor, not sure what the size is but the guy seemed to think that it was several horsepower, judging by the size of it I would think that would be about right. Anyway I fired it up today and cut some 200mm thick timber and also did some speed measurements, the motor revs at 1460RPM and the the band wheels spin at 552 RPM unloaded, with the 17" diameter wheels I estimate that the blade is moving approximately 1083 ft/min if my calcs are correct. This appears to be at least 2000 ft/min slower than ideal for a wood saw band travel speed.



So my options are in order of least expensive to most:



1) Just leave it as is and put up with the slower band speed.

2) Change the main pulley from the current 100mm with a larger 200mm pulley and matching length belts.

3) Get a larger motor (3-4HP) with a 2850 RPM and possibly a 150mm pulley.



So my main concerns are, I am wondering if I go for option 2, would the motor be underpowered. It does cut the timber and uses a 133" x 1/2" band with 4 TPI but it doesn't do it real fast or accurately, might have to get a wider band blade, but at this stage I am more concerned about whether the motor will handle the larger pulley and also if that will effect any bearings inside the wheels. Not sure what type of bearings are in it either!



Any ideas or opinions?



Cheers



Ed.

Microshades H4 sleeper

Hi all,



I recently bought a Microshades H4 sleeper from http://ift.tt/1muenqq



As I dont have a jointer/thicknesser I sanded it back a little.



I was wondering if this can be used for making some kitchen stool legs and seats? Reason I ask is because it is H4 and wanted to know if it will be suitable for inside the house after shaving off the top layer and finishing it off nicely.



2.jpg1.jpg







Also how far do I have to shave back or plane back before I get rid of the H4 effects on a peice of timber like this..

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Simile inspired spiral

Well I saw your WIP and I thought 'yeah, I could try that!'



So off to find some timber. There is some stuff cut down around Christmas and carefully racked, waned dipped and painted to stop checking ...... Not







Guess I better cut a piece







That was too long. Where's the saw switch







I think they call this stuff privet, let's mount it











Cuts nice







I thought strings like this shooting off the chisel clear across the room only happened in America



TBC







Dave the turning cowboy



turning wood into art

New tricks for old eyes!!

Just as I'm about to embark on some serious shed time SWMBO decides the house needs a coat of paint.



She is actually right, but I don't admit to that. The walls are a reasonably innocuous pale grey BUT, every room

has feature wall and therein lies the problem.



Some of the walls are/were very garish - purple, vivid blue etc. The real trouble however, lay with one particular colour.

The feature in the office and the laundry ( for Pete's sake! ) is a mauve colour not too far removed from the grey in most

Light conditions.



So, Ana takes a nice sized sample from the Laundry and we trot off to the paint shop. Get 15 litres with 1/2 tinting as we

wanted to go lighter. Well Guess what? Ana took the colour sample from the wrong wall!! But worse still, we did not even

realize that the bloody laundry was two tone until this morning!!!!



Now we have 15 useless litres of paint!!!!:~:~:~

l