Milled this yesterday...glorious figure...MM
Do we need expensive hand tools?
On another sub-fora I was stupidly sucked into what was described as a "flame war" by a couple of posters with opposing viewpoints.
There were some interesting and valid arguments used in opposition to my opinions.
One in particular struck a nerve with me: that you need high quality (and expensive) new hand tools to achieve good results.
I have neither. My tools are generally old. Some positively ancient. Some of my oldest chisels (Ward & Rob't Sorby) picked up cheaply, gifted and inherited, are of the laminated steel variety, with a thin layer of extremely hard steel forge-welded to a softer body. These take an edge with difficulty, and hold it with tenacity. Others are Stanley-Titan and Marples, bought new in the 70s & 80s, or picked up from markets which perform well, and seem to have pretty good quality steels.
Likewise, my saws, from an eclectic mix of English & Australian makers seem to perform well. Teaching myself how to sharpen them resulted in requests for the service from colleagues and through word-of-mouth. There's a satisfaction in having a freshly sharpened saw positive "sing" its way through a board. However, there's no future in saw doctoring: it takes an hour or more to top, breast, set & file a saw in poor condition, and while the results are satisfying, the financial reward isn't. Sure, an embroidery needle will slide down between the neatly set rows of teeth, and the saw will cut well, but so will a $10 Jack.
Are these obscenely expensive Wetzloff or Lie Nielsen saw really better than a well-sharpened $10 Sandersen or Symmonds from the market? Likewise the chisels that cost tens of dollars, or hundreds in the case of some exotic smithied Japanese ones must be better than a $5 market pickup.
At some point the law of diminishing returns must apply. Or is the quantum of difference that great? I'm doubtful. Metallurgy, while a bit of a black art, isn't magic. Surely the products of mass production from the steel mills in Sheffield or Port Kembla a century ago aren't so far removed from those of contemporary mass production?
Hand planes are an even more extreme example. The cost of planes from premium makers beggars belief. All but one of mine are second hand, and old. Canadian, Australian and American Stanleys, an English Record T5 "Technical" Jack that was designed for schoolboys to use, a pre-war Stayset smoother & 3 in 1 shoulder/chisel/bullnose. None are all that special, yet after basic lapping, cleaning and fettling all seem to do good work. My most used plane, and my favourite, is a late 70s early 80s vintage 60 1/2 low angle block plane, now into it's 3rd or 4th blade. The only "new" plane I own.
An 8, 6, couple of 4 1/2s, a few 4s, a 3 (my favourite smoother) a few Blocks, a Carter "78", combi shoulder/bullnose and a Router Plane. Worth I guess a couple of hundred the lot.
Yet I have been told that I should spend thousands on a new suite of HNT Gordon (whoever s/he is) planes to be more effective. Why?
I don't get it.
Sure, there's expensive old planes too. I've seen some fairly ratty old Spiers, Mathiesons and the fabled Norris planes sell for literally King's ransoms. The primary reason, I suspect, is more to do with their rarity than their utility. A hand made, hand dovetailed, gunmetal & brass rosewood stuffed Panel Plane is a thing of beauty to behold. Probably even a work of art. I'm sure it also planes well too. But few can afford to buy one, and even fewer can afford to actually use one, for fear of damaging such a precious item. I never will. The deposit on my house was less money than one of these cost.
Given the amount of time to make, and the level of skill involved in their construction, they were always expensive and rare. In fact, as millions of lesser tools are worn out, damaged and lost these rare beauties would have been treasured and preserved. Meaning that back in the day of their construction (late 19th/ early 20th centuries) they were relatively even rarer then than now. Given a journeyman's meagre wages, it's more likely that "gentleman hobbyists" were the makers' key customers.
Is that still the case today? Do most of us "make do" with old, recycled tools acquired cheaply and restored to usefulness? Are the products of Lie Nielsen, Veritas, HNT Gordon and Wetzloff et. al. really for the well heeled connosseur hobbyist or for everyman?
Who uses these fancy, expensive and beautifully designed wonders, & are they actually as good as the makers and marketers would have us believe?
There were some interesting and valid arguments used in opposition to my opinions.
One in particular struck a nerve with me: that you need high quality (and expensive) new hand tools to achieve good results.
I have neither. My tools are generally old. Some positively ancient. Some of my oldest chisels (Ward & Rob't Sorby) picked up cheaply, gifted and inherited, are of the laminated steel variety, with a thin layer of extremely hard steel forge-welded to a softer body. These take an edge with difficulty, and hold it with tenacity. Others are Stanley-Titan and Marples, bought new in the 70s & 80s, or picked up from markets which perform well, and seem to have pretty good quality steels.
Likewise, my saws, from an eclectic mix of English & Australian makers seem to perform well. Teaching myself how to sharpen them resulted in requests for the service from colleagues and through word-of-mouth. There's a satisfaction in having a freshly sharpened saw positive "sing" its way through a board. However, there's no future in saw doctoring: it takes an hour or more to top, breast, set & file a saw in poor condition, and while the results are satisfying, the financial reward isn't. Sure, an embroidery needle will slide down between the neatly set rows of teeth, and the saw will cut well, but so will a $10 Jack.
Are these obscenely expensive Wetzloff or Lie Nielsen saw really better than a well-sharpened $10 Sandersen or Symmonds from the market? Likewise the chisels that cost tens of dollars, or hundreds in the case of some exotic smithied Japanese ones must be better than a $5 market pickup.
At some point the law of diminishing returns must apply. Or is the quantum of difference that great? I'm doubtful. Metallurgy, while a bit of a black art, isn't magic. Surely the products of mass production from the steel mills in Sheffield or Port Kembla a century ago aren't so far removed from those of contemporary mass production?
Hand planes are an even more extreme example. The cost of planes from premium makers beggars belief. All but one of mine are second hand, and old. Canadian, Australian and American Stanleys, an English Record T5 "Technical" Jack that was designed for schoolboys to use, a pre-war Stayset smoother & 3 in 1 shoulder/chisel/bullnose. None are all that special, yet after basic lapping, cleaning and fettling all seem to do good work. My most used plane, and my favourite, is a late 70s early 80s vintage 60 1/2 low angle block plane, now into it's 3rd or 4th blade. The only "new" plane I own.
An 8, 6, couple of 4 1/2s, a few 4s, a 3 (my favourite smoother) a few Blocks, a Carter "78", combi shoulder/bullnose and a Router Plane. Worth I guess a couple of hundred the lot.
Yet I have been told that I should spend thousands on a new suite of HNT Gordon (whoever s/he is) planes to be more effective. Why?
I don't get it.
Sure, there's expensive old planes too. I've seen some fairly ratty old Spiers, Mathiesons and the fabled Norris planes sell for literally King's ransoms. The primary reason, I suspect, is more to do with their rarity than their utility. A hand made, hand dovetailed, gunmetal & brass rosewood stuffed Panel Plane is a thing of beauty to behold. Probably even a work of art. I'm sure it also planes well too. But few can afford to buy one, and even fewer can afford to actually use one, for fear of damaging such a precious item. I never will. The deposit on my house was less money than one of these cost.
Given the amount of time to make, and the level of skill involved in their construction, they were always expensive and rare. In fact, as millions of lesser tools are worn out, damaged and lost these rare beauties would have been treasured and preserved. Meaning that back in the day of their construction (late 19th/ early 20th centuries) they were relatively even rarer then than now. Given a journeyman's meagre wages, it's more likely that "gentleman hobbyists" were the makers' key customers.
Is that still the case today? Do most of us "make do" with old, recycled tools acquired cheaply and restored to usefulness? Are the products of Lie Nielsen, Veritas, HNT Gordon and Wetzloff et. al. really for the well heeled connosseur hobbyist or for everyman?
Who uses these fancy, expensive and beautifully designed wonders, & are they actually as good as the makers and marketers would have us believe?
Baladonia Router Table Range Special
Hello,
Just letting you know that we currently have a special running for the Baladonia range of router tables, with a minimum of 20% off the tables as well as specials on the individual components. Check out the range by going to our website. The special will be running for the month of October.
We have also just uploaded instructional assembly video's on the full range as well as the Router Lift. You can check these as well as other video's out by going to the Bench Standard YouTube channel.
Many thanks,
Hague. :)
Just letting you know that we currently have a special running for the Baladonia range of router tables, with a minimum of 20% off the tables as well as specials on the individual components. Check out the range by going to our website. The special will be running for the month of October.
We have also just uploaded instructional assembly video's on the full range as well as the Router Lift. You can check these as well as other video's out by going to the Bench Standard YouTube channel.
Many thanks,
Hague. :)
Which bit for cutting router insert hole
Hi,
I'm pretty new to using the router (I've got a 3600BR). I've got a router table (3/4" MDF), and am trying to cut an insert hole for it.
I don't have many bits yet (and yes, I have plans to buy a good quality 1/2" set soon), but decided to pick an 1/4" el cheapo (Aldi) 6mm straight bit for the job that I had lying around. It pretty much snapped straight away.
What I'm not sure about is why it snapped. Would I get the same result with a 1/2" good quality 6mm straight bit? Is this kind of bit completely wrong for
the job (I can't see why it would be)? I'm hoping I can use another 6mm bit for the job as I have my template all perfectly aligned for it.
Thanks.
I'm pretty new to using the router (I've got a 3600BR). I've got a router table (3/4" MDF), and am trying to cut an insert hole for it.
I don't have many bits yet (and yes, I have plans to buy a good quality 1/2" set soon), but decided to pick an 1/4" el cheapo (Aldi) 6mm straight bit for the job that I had lying around. It pretty much snapped straight away.
What I'm not sure about is why it snapped. Would I get the same result with a 1/2" good quality 6mm straight bit? Is this kind of bit completely wrong for
the job (I can't see why it would be)? I'm hoping I can use another 6mm bit for the job as I have my template all perfectly aligned for it.
Thanks.
Elliot 8-18 Surface Grinder
Hi all. Some of you may be aware that I recently purchased (yet to be aquired) an Elliot SG.
By chance does anyone have a copy of an owners manual for one of these or one of the same family?
Happy to pay for it. There are people selling these manuals which I may have to buy but thought id ask here first.
Cheers.
Simon
By chance does anyone have a copy of an owners manual for one of these or one of the same family?
Happy to pay for it. There are people selling these manuals which I may have to buy but thought id ask here first.
Cheers.
Simon
Powerfeed on Jointer
Hi Guys,
Just sharing some experience.
Strapped a powerfeed on my jointer. At first I thought I wouldn't use it, but doing long and wide boards is a breeze. Big runs are also much easier to handle on your own. Only takes 2mins to set up too.
Not sure I would have shelled out 1000+ bucks for it, but got it for a steal on Gumtree and am really happy with it.
I've easily jointed 2.7m boards with a featherboard to assist the feed at the start and an outfeed roller at the end - before now was pretty much impossible. Video here.
Just sharing some experience.
Strapped a powerfeed on my jointer. At first I thought I wouldn't use it, but doing long and wide boards is a breeze. Big runs are also much easier to handle on your own. Only takes 2mins to set up too.
Not sure I would have shelled out 1000+ bucks for it, but got it for a steal on Gumtree and am really happy with it.
I've easily jointed 2.7m boards with a featherboard to assist the feed at the start and an outfeed roller at the end - before now was pretty much impossible. Video here.
QLD hairy oak clock blanks
pack consists of 7 blanks - all natural edge hairy oak size 130mm high x 200mm long x25mm thick.ideal for clock blanks or small craft projects.
Price - $60 the lot plus postage $13 anywhere in aust - trackable satchel.
Price - $60 the lot plus postage $13 anywhere in aust - trackable satchel.
QLD hairy oak pen blanks
This is a selection of 33 hairy oak pen blanks . All select grade - some 1/4 sawn- good dark colour.size 150mmx25m25mm.good for pen blanks or knife handles.
Price - $60 plus postage of $13 anywhere in aust in trackable satchel.
Price - $60 plus postage of $13 anywhere in aust in trackable satchel.
Thiel Duplex 158 Mill - oil info
An engineer friend of mine has a Thiel Duplex 158 mill which he is doing a bit of repair/rebuild to.
He's been doing a bit of research on oils for it and has given me permission to put that info up here in case it might be of use to someone else.
regards bollie7
from Glenn
I plan to get my mill going againsoon as I had to buy the right lube oil. I found out that many of the modern oils have additives that attackbronze bushes and my mill has a few of these in the gearbox and also the mainhorizontal spindle. I found a very helpful guy at the Mobil distributor and hewas able to recommend the right oils for the machine. Now I just have to getthe oils out of the 20l drums and into the mill.
The oils I bought are asfollows:
Mobil DTE Oil Heavy – This isused to lubricate the slides and lead screws.
Mobil Velocite 10 – This is usedfor the main spindle bearings which are bronze bushes.
Mobil DTE Oil Medium – This isused to lubricate the gearboxes and vertical spindle unit. The vertical spindlehas all ball bearings, a bevel gear set and a spur gear set. The verticalspindle unit has no seals so it has to be oiled frequently. The oil goes in thetop and runs out around the spindle itself. I don’t know what frequently meansin this context so I’ll be lubing every half hour or so during use.
The smallest size container theoils come in is a 20 litre.
The main oils to avoid withplain bearings are those containing extreme pressure additives. Diff oils are aparticular lube to avoid.
Hope the above is useful?
He's been doing a bit of research on oils for it and has given me permission to put that info up here in case it might be of use to someone else.
regards bollie7
from Glenn
I plan to get my mill going againsoon as I had to buy the right lube oil. I found out that many of the modern oils have additives that attackbronze bushes and my mill has a few of these in the gearbox and also the mainhorizontal spindle. I found a very helpful guy at the Mobil distributor and hewas able to recommend the right oils for the machine. Now I just have to getthe oils out of the 20l drums and into the mill.
The oils I bought are asfollows:
Mobil DTE Oil Heavy – This isused to lubricate the slides and lead screws.
Mobil Velocite 10 – This is usedfor the main spindle bearings which are bronze bushes.
Mobil DTE Oil Medium – This isused to lubricate the gearboxes and vertical spindle unit. The vertical spindlehas all ball bearings, a bevel gear set and a spur gear set. The verticalspindle unit has no seals so it has to be oiled frequently. The oil goes in thetop and runs out around the spindle itself. I don’t know what frequently meansin this context so I’ll be lubing every half hour or so during use.
The smallest size container theoils come in is a 20 litre.
The main oils to avoid withplain bearings are those containing extreme pressure additives. Diff oils are aparticular lube to avoid.
Hope the above is useful?
Building Materials for a Passive House in Perth
I am planning a large extension with ideally a low or zero net energy requirement and would like to model it closely on German "Passiv Haus" standards.
My major problem at this stage is deciding on what building material to use. I want something that will last much longer than double brick and would like to do a lot of the work myself and love rammed earth, but it has poor insulating properties and needs external insulation. ICF looks good for DIY as well, but needs some sort of cladding inside and out which increases the work load. Aerated concrete blocks are difficult to lay I hear.
Any suggestions as to what else I should be considering that is suitable for DIY and will pass council i.e. no straw bales, mud brick etc. Not really keen on Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs), inspite if their good insulating and structural properties, as they seem not much better than a cornflake box in terms of long term durability - I want something that looks and is solid and that'll last much longer.
Lastly are there any Perth suppliers of German (not Australian!) made triple glazing?
Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...
My major problem at this stage is deciding on what building material to use. I want something that will last much longer than double brick and would like to do a lot of the work myself and love rammed earth, but it has poor insulating properties and needs external insulation. ICF looks good for DIY as well, but needs some sort of cladding inside and out which increases the work load. Aerated concrete blocks are difficult to lay I hear.
Any suggestions as to what else I should be considering that is suitable for DIY and will pass council i.e. no straw bales, mud brick etc. Not really keen on Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs), inspite if their good insulating and structural properties, as they seem not much better than a cornflake box in terms of long term durability - I want something that looks and is solid and that'll last much longer.
Lastly are there any Perth suppliers of German (not Australian!) made triple glazing?
Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...
Large Bifold doors opening.
Hi Guys,
We are doing renovation in our house and want to get a bilold door that is almost 6 meters long. Our house is brick-veneer and we are currently going through the stage of getting all the drawings done by architects.
So I had a chat with one of them today and he suggested that having a 6 meter long bifold door from wall to wall would be much harder and more expensive to implement because of extra support required to hold heavy doors without sagging.
As an option he advised that we can install a poll in the middle and have 2 x 3meter boors, but we don't think it would look any good.
So I have a few questions.
1) How much more expensive would it be to build support for 1 long door VS 2 smaller doors.
2) What is the largest size of the door that wouldn't need this kind of work.
3) Would sliding doors require same level of work or would it be easier?
4) What if we go with sliding doors and leave one section on each side stationary - would it help?
Would appreciate your advice!!!
Cheers
Kostya
Read and reply to the full thread at RenovateForum.com....
We are doing renovation in our house and want to get a bilold door that is almost 6 meters long. Our house is brick-veneer and we are currently going through the stage of getting all the drawings done by architects.
So I had a chat with one of them today and he suggested that having a 6 meter long bifold door from wall to wall would be much harder and more expensive to implement because of extra support required to hold heavy doors without sagging.
As an option he advised that we can install a poll in the middle and have 2 x 3meter boors, but we don't think it would look any good.
So I have a few questions.
1) How much more expensive would it be to build support for 1 long door VS 2 smaller doors.
2) What is the largest size of the door that wouldn't need this kind of work.
3) Would sliding doors require same level of work or would it be easier?
4) What if we go with sliding doors and leave one section on each side stationary - would it help?
Would appreciate your advice!!!
Cheers
Kostya
Read and reply to the full thread at RenovateForum.com....
What is the going rate for welding?
Just seeking some advice before I get quotes so I know who is trying to take me for a ride.
I am hoping to get fabricated a metal frame for a table with shelf - 2m x 1m x 1m with a middle leg and support bar (see attached picture).
Looking to use 25mm SHS galvanised either 1.6mm or 2mm. I can source the steel easily - just need to get it welded together.
Not many places are willing to do jobs for the general public and I suspect those that do see you coming and charge and arm and a leg.
Is there a set amount per hour/join that I should anticipate or an overall cost for a job like this?
I'm also located in Brisbane and would appreciate any recommendations for places that will do this kind of work. Cheers!
I am hoping to get fabricated a metal frame for a table with shelf - 2m x 1m x 1m with a middle leg and support bar (see attached picture).
Looking to use 25mm SHS galvanised either 1.6mm or 2mm. I can source the steel easily - just need to get it welded together.
Not many places are willing to do jobs for the general public and I suspect those that do see you coming and charge and arm and a leg.
Is there a set amount per hour/join that I should anticipate or an overall cost for a job like this?
I'm also located in Brisbane and would appreciate any recommendations for places that will do this kind of work. Cheers!
Narex chisels
Just to let you know that Narex chisels are now available here: http://ift.tt/QraJ5y
I have no connection apart from just having ordered some. They are cheaper than importing from the US or UK (at least by an individual).
They are also available from their ebay shop.
Chris
I have no connection apart from just having ordered some. They are cheaper than importing from the US or UK (at least by an individual).
They are also available from their ebay shop.
Chris
NSW durden pacemaker combination machine
Used Durden Pacemaker Combination Machine, Blue unit, which I believe is a 1960's model, has saw, planer, disc sander, mortiser. On/off switch needs attention.
Can you wash belt sander belts ?
I've always wondered. Sometimes, for one reason or another, I will destroy a reasonably new belt, by using it on a particularly oily timber or finish that clogs it so quickly that not even my thong can pull it out.
Have you ever saved all these clogged belts and chucked them in a bucket of something special that brings them back to new ? I could see that maybe that would work. But don't know what that something special would be
cheers big ears
Jake
Have you ever saved all these clogged belts and chucked them in a bucket of something special that brings them back to new ? I could see that maybe that would work. But don't know what that something special would be
cheers big ears
Jake
Mirror Finish surface for heavy objects like lcd monitor
What is the best way to get a mirror finish on veneer & hardwood that will rest an lcd screen? Can you have many coats of canned poly like 6-8 without any impression or dents left? Thanks
Honda 750 Four
About to do up a 1972 Honda CB750 four K2. The bike I have has got a clapped out later model motor K7 in it. So just wondering perchance if anyone out there has an old K2 motor or earlier kicking around? Even an old K2 bike, basket case,etc. Preferably in Tasmania but would consider anything. Also interested in a decent set of instruments (speedo/tacho). The K2 ones were different from most other years.
Disston saw - horn Issue
G'day Folks
Saturday in the Shed was bliss, Me at my bench turning trees into shavings. This however was short lived as I managed to knock my favorite 16" Disston saw off the bench and subsequently the top horn broke off. I thought I could salvage the situation with super glue, this however turned out fruitless. The little nib kept slipping. So my dilemma is this - is their a member who could assist with a restoration of the said horn. I believe it to be an apple handle with three brass nuts. I am in Camberwell vic. Any leads would be most welcome.
Wal :doh:
Saturday in the Shed was bliss, Me at my bench turning trees into shavings. This however was short lived as I managed to knock my favorite 16" Disston saw off the bench and subsequently the top horn broke off. I thought I could salvage the situation with super glue, this however turned out fruitless. The little nib kept slipping. So my dilemma is this - is their a member who could assist with a restoration of the said horn. I believe it to be an apple handle with three brass nuts. I am in Camberwell vic. Any leads would be most welcome.
Wal :doh:
How to flatten bowed huon pine boards?
A few years ago I bought a board of huon pine with some birdseye in it. It has been laid flat on a floor in its original black plastic wrapping for that time, opened one end. The dimensions are 180 W x 600L x 10mm thick
Dug the board out today to use, and found the board had bowed lengthwise, like it has been standing at an angle against a wall for that time :C If I try to sit it flat on the floor, it looks a bit like the Sydney Harbour Bridge - actually, the under side of the board is only about20mm 6mm off the floor. No sign of any twisting or cupping across the width of the board. If I press hard enough, it will flatten to the floor without any damage.
Does anyone know of any old craftsman's trick that I could use to permanently flatten it, like wetting the concave side and putting weights on it, whatever?
Dug the board out today to use, and found the board had bowed lengthwise, like it has been standing at an angle against a wall for that time :C If I try to sit it flat on the floor, it looks a bit like the Sydney Harbour Bridge - actually, the under side of the board is only about
Does anyone know of any old craftsman's trick that I could use to permanently flatten it, like wetting the concave side and putting weights on it, whatever?
Model Kit Seller
Hi,
For all the blokes who where talking about making models earlier this year this bloke is selling material and instructional kits on gumtree. When I get back from Townsville in December I'm going to get one of the cheaper kits for me to do over the holidays.
http://ift.tt/1pDjHal
Looks like a good place to start.
Ben.
For all the blokes who where talking about making models earlier this year this bloke is selling material and instructional kits on gumtree. When I get back from Townsville in December I'm going to get one of the cheaper kits for me to do over the holidays.
http://ift.tt/1pDjHal
Looks like a good place to start.
Ben.
Speed control alternative to VFD??
I know VFD are popular converting 3ph motors to 240V and you get the bonus of speed control. If you already have a 240V motor and rather than using stepped pulleys is there an easy electronic way to have speed control??
I saw this and thought it sounds like a good plug an play option.
productLarge_13403.jpg
I saw this and thought it sounds like a good plug an play option.
productLarge_13403.jpg
Talk to me about oxy LPG.
lundi 29 septembre 2014
Now that I have MIG and a plasma cutter I can see the oxy getting less work.
It will probaly only end up doing brazing, a little cutting and maybe some welding.
AND in the interests of cutting bottle rental out of the deal I'm thinking abount shifting the rig across to LPG.
I understand that LPG simply wont produce the heat that acetlene will, the fuel consumption will be a bit higher as will the oxygen consumption.
but do tell.....what are the ins and outs of oxy/LPG and how do you find it compares.
cheers
It will probaly only end up doing brazing, a little cutting and maybe some welding.
AND in the interests of cutting bottle rental out of the deal I'm thinking abount shifting the rig across to LPG.
I understand that LPG simply wont produce the heat that acetlene will, the fuel consumption will be a bit higher as will the oxygen consumption.
but do tell.....what are the ins and outs of oxy/LPG and how do you find it compares.
cheers
heads up
just spotted ( cos i am going to toowoomba tomorrow so i had a quick look at the cattledog) super cheap pressure pots on special from tomorrow and for i think 2 weeks .
http://catalogue.supercheapauto.com....logue#pageNo=6
johno
http://catalogue.supercheapauto.com....logue#pageNo=6
johno
QLD Dovetail Kit
I have a Universal Dovetail Kit, made in Taiwan that I bought many years ago when I lived in Melbourne, probably from Carba-Tec. It would have to be at least 15 years old.
It has never been used and first time I took it out of the box was to take these photos. I don't remember what I pad for it so I am hoping that my asking price I price is reasonable/fair
Pick up from Benowa, Gold Coast or I could ship but due to weight it might be uneconomical.
Buy it price $ 170.00 on pick up or by paypal.
It has never been used and first time I took it out of the box was to take these photos. I don't remember what I pad for it so I am hoping that my asking price I price is reasonable/fair
Pick up from Benowa, Gold Coast or I could ship but due to weight it might be uneconomical.
Buy it price $ 170.00 on pick up or by paypal.
Fired up the dusty
I have had an old Leda Dusty for a number of years but never got around to hooking it up.
The machine has a 2hp motor, 14"impeller and takes a 125mm hose.
Goes like stink!! It swallowed a couple of larger objects that I thought would be safe! No harm done as the hose
slowed their progress. Compared to the 1hp- Carbatec units at the club -- well there is no comparison.
I have only used it as a vacuum cleaner so far but that is about to change. Great to get the shed cleaned in a hurry!!
I'm lookin at getting some 5 micron cloth to aid the fine dust amelioration and I'm looking to have some sort of nozzle arrangement for when I use the thing as a vacuum cleaner. That will make life even easier.
The machine has a 2hp motor, 14"impeller and takes a 125mm hose.
Goes like stink!! It swallowed a couple of larger objects that I thought would be safe! No harm done as the hose
slowed their progress. Compared to the 1hp- Carbatec units at the club -- well there is no comparison.
I have only used it as a vacuum cleaner so far but that is about to change. Great to get the shed cleaned in a hurry!!
I'm lookin at getting some 5 micron cloth to aid the fine dust amelioration and I'm looking to have some sort of nozzle arrangement for when I use the thing as a vacuum cleaner. That will make life even easier.
Forum outlay
Hi there! As a very occasional user of this forum, mainly in the metalwork section, I find that when I want to use the woodwork area I am lost. There are way too many sub forum and the sub forum of the sub forum, an outlay that may be justified by thousands of post a day, but clearly not (in my view) with the traffic we have here. I suggest consolidating many small fragmented forum into less and easier to identify, This will provide increased traffic in each forum and make it more attractive. :2tsup:
Japanese saw in action
There's a short video on YouTube of a Japanese saw here:
http://ift.tt/1vqQgwR
If you are on Facebook the guy who put the video up is Makoto Takeda. He has a lot of interesting photos of Japanese tools in use. If you search for him on Facebook his profile photo shows him inspecting some logs.
http://ift.tt/1vqQgwR
If you are on Facebook the guy who put the video up is Makoto Takeda. He has a lot of interesting photos of Japanese tools in use. If you search for him on Facebook his profile photo shows him inspecting some logs.
Oils vs Wax
Hi all,
I have tried searching for an answer to this, both here and on the web generally but searching 'oil vs wax finish' hasn't given me the answer I was looking for.
Can someone explain, as a bit of a backgrounder, the use of oils vs waxes and when one might be used instead of another, or when both might be used?
I generally only do furniture restoration, which mostly means stripping old shellac off, fixing any structural issues and then re-finishing.
I don't like glossy/wet look finishes and so usually finish with ~4 coats of Feast Watson Floor Sealer (which is essentially tung oil plus some other stuff).
My question is more academic than anything though I'm close to re-finishing an art deco sideboard which was shellacked.
Thanks,
2sharp
I have tried searching for an answer to this, both here and on the web generally but searching 'oil vs wax finish' hasn't given me the answer I was looking for.
Can someone explain, as a bit of a backgrounder, the use of oils vs waxes and when one might be used instead of another, or when both might be used?
I generally only do furniture restoration, which mostly means stripping old shellac off, fixing any structural issues and then re-finishing.
I don't like glossy/wet look finishes and so usually finish with ~4 coats of Feast Watson Floor Sealer (which is essentially tung oil plus some other stuff).
My question is more academic than anything though I'm close to re-finishing an art deco sideboard which was shellacked.
Thanks,
2sharp
Creosote (the real one) - what are the dangers please?
I have a large quantity of reclaimed hardwood boards, and many of them have been treated with genuine creosote from the 1950s.
Some of them (that are not being used for construction) will need to go over the jointer, so I'm wondering what precautions I should take. I will use a 3M P2 mask, but is that enough? This particular mask is known to be cat fart proof, FWIW (not sure how fine the particles in a cat fart are compared to creosote dust :D).
The boards that I do use for construction or fencing will have the creosote left on.
Some of them (that are not being used for construction) will need to go over the jointer, so I'm wondering what precautions I should take. I will use a 3M P2 mask, but is that enough? This particular mask is known to be cat fart proof, FWIW (not sure how fine the particles in a cat fart are compared to creosote dust :D).
The boards that I do use for construction or fencing will have the creosote left on.
Abranet
Anyone here used Abranet pads for their pens, seen some positive feedback from overseas users, wondering how it compares with Micromesh.
Plate
I was watching a video on the internet and saw a fellow turn a plate. So I thought that I might give it a go, after all the purpose of turning is to have fun.
P1010515.JPG
This photo shows the plate having a curve. This is not as pronounced in reality as the photo indicates. The corners of the plate are just slightly higher about half a millimetre. What I missed at the time of making this plate is the thickness of the corners and the long running edge of the plate have about 1mm difference. Something to consider when you want to make one.
P1010514.JPG P1010516.JPG
I have been told the wood is Spotted Gum. I have more of this and had made pens out of it but don't really like the way it comes up if the finish is shinny. So I used a bit of danish oil to give it some protection.
As this was just a practice piece I am not sure that I like it enough to give it away. Comments and criticism welcome.
P1010515.JPG
This photo shows the plate having a curve. This is not as pronounced in reality as the photo indicates. The corners of the plate are just slightly higher about half a millimetre. What I missed at the time of making this plate is the thickness of the corners and the long running edge of the plate have about 1mm difference. Something to consider when you want to make one.
P1010514.JPG P1010516.JPG
I have been told the wood is Spotted Gum. I have more of this and had made pens out of it but don't really like the way it comes up if the finish is shinny. So I used a bit of danish oil to give it some protection.
As this was just a practice piece I am not sure that I like it enough to give it away. Comments and criticism welcome.
Sharpened Again.
Hi All,
Close to 4 Months ago I bought a German Skip Tooth make of Bandsaw Blade, from McDivens, Williamstown, Vic. Was told it was a little easier to Weld. So it has not been cutting very well, so I had a few minutes on my hands, so I decided to Sharpen the 2375mm.x 3/8in x 6TPI Blade.
So 25mins. later, absolutely brilliant.
Blade is back to it's best.
Now don't get this wrong, as I wood not do Precision Cutting, well I don't anyway.
However, I do like the Swedish Hakasson Skip Tooth Blade better.
I found that the German Blade liked to grip the wood slightly.
For those who wood like to have a go at this, you could go back through The Threads, as I explained how I went about doing this Blade Sharpening.
Close to 4 Months ago I bought a German Skip Tooth make of Bandsaw Blade, from McDivens, Williamstown, Vic. Was told it was a little easier to Weld. So it has not been cutting very well, so I had a few minutes on my hands, so I decided to Sharpen the 2375mm.x 3/8in x 6TPI Blade.
So 25mins. later, absolutely brilliant.
Blade is back to it's best.
Now don't get this wrong, as I wood not do Precision Cutting, well I don't anyway.
However, I do like the Swedish Hakasson Skip Tooth Blade better.
I found that the German Blade liked to grip the wood slightly.
For those who wood like to have a go at this, you could go back through The Threads, as I explained how I went about doing this Blade Sharpening.
Dish With A Plug
Yeah I know the pun on words for the heading is a little over the top. :U
I was told that this was a piece of Tasmania Oak. It was laying around the garage with a hole in it. I used it originally for something else and this had become scrap. So i put it on the lathe to try and turn a dish out of it mounted in the screw chuck. I turned a tenon and mounted it in the chuck to finish off the inside. I drilled out a larger hole and then took it off the lathe. I mounted a piece of scrap wood to turn my own dowel. The fit was tight as what you would normally want then I thought that I could highlight the down with a bit of dyed epoxy. I sanded the hole at the top lip a little wider, so the dowel was tight in the bottom half of the hole and a loose fit at the top.
I think I should have made it a little wider as it is not really seen that much unless you get really close. :dunno:
All comments and criticism welcome and that INCLUDES PUNS.
P1010510.JPG P1010512.JPG P1010509.JPG
I was told that this was a piece of Tasmania Oak. It was laying around the garage with a hole in it. I used it originally for something else and this had become scrap. So i put it on the lathe to try and turn a dish out of it mounted in the screw chuck. I turned a tenon and mounted it in the chuck to finish off the inside. I drilled out a larger hole and then took it off the lathe. I mounted a piece of scrap wood to turn my own dowel. The fit was tight as what you would normally want then I thought that I could highlight the down with a bit of dyed epoxy. I sanded the hole at the top lip a little wider, so the dowel was tight in the bottom half of the hole and a loose fit at the top.
I think I should have made it a little wider as it is not really seen that much unless you get really close. :dunno:
All comments and criticism welcome and that INCLUDES PUNS.
P1010510.JPG P1010512.JPG P1010509.JPG
remaking Hercus parts
As you may have noticed, from the amount of time it is taking with some of the parts, the reverse engineering of these parts is an expensive and time consuming exercise, when it has to be done through the engineering companies and I simply don't have enough time to do it all myself. I would be interested in anyone who feels they can contribute in some way towards the saving of these machines by making as much as is possible available to owners seeking to restore Hercus machines.
Although several members are already contributing, more help would be appreciated. If any members feels they are capable of making parts that are true to the original design and of good quality, please get involved. All I want is your skills, materials and castings will be supplied. Please get in touch with me via the contact info below. As has been mentioned by several people, I could send the manufacturing offshore and get them made cheaply in China or India etc, I would prefer this was not necessary.
Don't expect to make a fortune doing this, as it just won't happen. I do not expect people to contribute their time and energy without reward but remember, the market that supported exalted prices for these parts is long gone. The fast majority of the remaining machines are now in private workshops, a good number of the owners of these do not have the means to afford the real market cost of parts, so costs need to be kept to a minimum. Members who have functioning engineering concerns with the time to contribute in some small way, would be the ideal candidates, retired toolmakers, machinist, mechanical draftsman, industrial sparkies also have skills that could be put to good use. I am currently seeking someone who can produce worms and wormgears for the a model aprons at a price that is affordable.
The result of not making these things available is the distruction of even more machines to keep the remaining ones going, this can't be allowed to happen. Since starting this project over one hundred machines have been wrecked and that's only the ones I've heard of, I am guilty of the same thing myself as it's been unavoidable in the past. God knows how many others have gone. Obvously it can't all be stopped, as there will always be people who don't care.
Mal
contact info: mconomy@optusnet.com.au
mobile 0438466008
Although several members are already contributing, more help would be appreciated. If any members feels they are capable of making parts that are true to the original design and of good quality, please get involved. All I want is your skills, materials and castings will be supplied. Please get in touch with me via the contact info below. As has been mentioned by several people, I could send the manufacturing offshore and get them made cheaply in China or India etc, I would prefer this was not necessary.
Don't expect to make a fortune doing this, as it just won't happen. I do not expect people to contribute their time and energy without reward but remember, the market that supported exalted prices for these parts is long gone. The fast majority of the remaining machines are now in private workshops, a good number of the owners of these do not have the means to afford the real market cost of parts, so costs need to be kept to a minimum. Members who have functioning engineering concerns with the time to contribute in some small way, would be the ideal candidates, retired toolmakers, machinist, mechanical draftsman, industrial sparkies also have skills that could be put to good use. I am currently seeking someone who can produce worms and wormgears for the a model aprons at a price that is affordable.
The result of not making these things available is the distruction of even more machines to keep the remaining ones going, this can't be allowed to happen. Since starting this project over one hundred machines have been wrecked and that's only the ones I've heard of, I am guilty of the same thing myself as it's been unavoidable in the past. God knows how many others have gone. Obvously it can't all be stopped, as there will always be people who don't care.
Mal
contact info: mconomy@optusnet.com.au
mobile 0438466008
Candle Holder
This is a piece of Camphor Laurel that I picked up from one of the members of the forum.
Originally still had the bark and thought that I might be able to keep it some of it. As you can tell it was not the case. So all of it came off and the sanding started after making sure that both ends were parallel to each other. I sanded a little longer in some parts to reveal the grain like a wave. The knot fell out and so I filled it with resin. The first time produced so much bubbles it was worst than swiss cheese. The second attempt was better. I mixed in some rust coloured powered in the resin.
I attached the base because it was tipping once it gets to a certain position. I tried to add weight to the bottom but all that did was give it a few more degrees before it went over. So I attached the base from another log, no idea what and left that a little rough. Finished with three coats of wipe on poly.
What do you guys think?
P1010504.JPG P1010507.JPG P1010506.JPG P1010508.JPG
Originally still had the bark and thought that I might be able to keep it some of it. As you can tell it was not the case. So all of it came off and the sanding started after making sure that both ends were parallel to each other. I sanded a little longer in some parts to reveal the grain like a wave. The knot fell out and so I filled it with resin. The first time produced so much bubbles it was worst than swiss cheese. The second attempt was better. I mixed in some rust coloured powered in the resin.
I attached the base because it was tipping once it gets to a certain position. I tried to add weight to the bottom but all that did was give it a few more degrees before it went over. So I attached the base from another log, no idea what and left that a little rough. Finished with three coats of wipe on poly.
What do you guys think?
P1010504.JPG P1010507.JPG P1010506.JPG P1010508.JPG
how hard is to change pinless blades on these saws?
G'day all,
Hi, I'm new to woodworking. I've never used a scroll saw, but I am looking into buying one. I'd like to do some toys and other little things with it. I'm pretty busy with other things so I won't have a lot of time to work on it.
I' ve looked through this forum and many other reviews. Everyone recomends the Trupro and alike. It's to exepnsive for me unfortunately.
People say that it could be a pain to change a pinless blades on some cheap saw. Apparently some saws can have a better clamps installed for holding the pinless blades.
I was wondering if I could get some advice on these 3 scroll saws below or others. Has anyone have exeprience, own any of these. How hard is to change the pinless blades, are there any (hegner like) clamps replacement for them.
1. Scheppach Deco flex ($198)
2. Hafco Woodmaster B-18V ($297)
3. Proxxon Scroll saw DSH 28092 ($375)
I can't find any reviews in Australia about proxon. It is the dearest one and it streches my budget already.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Kris
Hi, I'm new to woodworking. I've never used a scroll saw, but I am looking into buying one. I'd like to do some toys and other little things with it. I'm pretty busy with other things so I won't have a lot of time to work on it.
I' ve looked through this forum and many other reviews. Everyone recomends the Trupro and alike. It's to exepnsive for me unfortunately.
People say that it could be a pain to change a pinless blades on some cheap saw. Apparently some saws can have a better clamps installed for holding the pinless blades.
I was wondering if I could get some advice on these 3 scroll saws below or others. Has anyone have exeprience, own any of these. How hard is to change the pinless blades, are there any (hegner like) clamps replacement for them.
1. Scheppach Deco flex ($198)
2. Hafco Woodmaster B-18V ($297)
3. Proxxon Scroll saw DSH 28092 ($375)
I can't find any reviews in Australia about proxon. It is the dearest one and it streches my budget already.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Kris
BOX JOINT BIT HEIGHT PROBLEMS
Hi All,
Just wondering if im doing something wrong here..
Im using the latest model triton router table with a makita plunge router 3600BR.
Im trying to make box joints with a half inch bit & a box joint jig i made up..
What i dont understand is even with the makita at full plunge & a 30mm cutting depth on the router bit itself I can only get the bit to protude through the table 20 mm max.. which means if you include the depth of base of the jig (10-12mm) then you can only cut max 10mm into the material..
So do i need a bit with a ridiculously long cutting depth on it? I see guys in youtube videos cutting well high into timber doing the same thing im doing & i can figure out why....
http://ift.tt/10dYaA2
Just wondering if im doing something wrong here..
Im using the latest model triton router table with a makita plunge router 3600BR.
Im trying to make box joints with a half inch bit & a box joint jig i made up..
What i dont understand is even with the makita at full plunge & a 30mm cutting depth on the router bit itself I can only get the bit to protude through the table 20 mm max.. which means if you include the depth of base of the jig (10-12mm) then you can only cut max 10mm into the material..
So do i need a bit with a ridiculously long cutting depth on it? I see guys in youtube videos cutting well high into timber doing the same thing im doing & i can figure out why....
http://ift.tt/10dYaA2
Upgrade the 1 hp motor on a carba tec dust extractor to something more powerul.
i purchased a 1hp dust extractor from Carba Tec without knowing the fall off of suction once you place a bend and concertina hose in the system. Is it possible to replace the 1hp motor with something more powerful. has anyone done this. Thanaks
Jnr Statesman fountain pen size
I have not used one of these pen kits and would like to know if the size of the pen is suitable for a male or is it more suited for a female sized hand?
Or are there better options available for a masculine style pen?
Thanks in advance, Waxman
Or are there better options available for a masculine style pen?
Thanks in advance, Waxman
On floor duct for combination machine?
Dear all
I would like to pick your brains.
An embarrassingly long time ago I made up a cyclone to Bill Pentz's plans and sorted out a fan that I hope will do the job, see
http://ift.tt/10dC9S3
Since then I have had done a major repair and reorganization of my shed and have finally installed the cyclone and got the machinery into what I hope will be their long term positions, nothing is ever permanent.
2014-09-28 12.30.38.jpg
This is the cyclone, that is a 5hp 3ph motor sitting up there. I am making a muffler/ outlet to take the exhaust 1200mm to the right and then out through the wall. This is the larger diameter (20inch) lower resistance cyclone which makes it quite tall and as you can see it uses every bit of height in a 10' shed.
2014-09-28 12.29.23.jpg
This is the layout of my woodworking machinery, I have tried to keep it compact to keep the duct lengths down, its 4.5m from the cyclone inlet to the router table just visible on the right. I think that with this compact layout I am just with in Bill's specs for a 'single car' garage.
I am now working out the ducting plan. I will use 150mm stormwater pipe and will have to get into several of the machines with an angle grinder to enlarge the ports. I have been doing lots of reading and I think that I can see how to lay it out - the bit that I am least sure about is how to connect to the Robland combination machine that is sitting in the middle of the floor?
This machine needs access on all sides and I can see two possible ways of getting the duct to it. The first it to bring a duct down above the hinge for the outfeed table for the jointer, I think that I could make this work but it would be a pain. The other way is to take the duct across the floor, its app 800mm.
2014-09-28 16.01.55.jpg
I don't want a 150mm pipe across that gap and so have been thinking of making up a rectangular section floor duct with tapered sides to minimize the tripping hazzard. This is a sketch of what I have in mind, sorry that it has come out on its ear! The material list reflects stuff that I have around. The internal size, 240 x 75 mm gives a cross section that is slightly larger that 150mm pipe. If I make this I know that I would have to do a decent job of the connections at either end, I could angle the pipes in at 45deg and make proper transitions. I think that I would also want an IP so that I can check it and clear it at need.
2014-09-29 19.27.35.jpg
What do people think? Has anyone done something like this? Any alternative suggestions for ducting the Robland?
Any or all comments and suggestions very welcome.
Regards
Ian
2014-09-28 12.30.38.jpg2014-09-28 12.29.23.jpg2014-09-28 16.01.55.jpg2014-09-29 19.27.35.jpg
I would like to pick your brains.
An embarrassingly long time ago I made up a cyclone to Bill Pentz's plans and sorted out a fan that I hope will do the job, see
http://ift.tt/10dC9S3
Since then I have had done a major repair and reorganization of my shed and have finally installed the cyclone and got the machinery into what I hope will be their long term positions, nothing is ever permanent.
2014-09-28 12.30.38.jpg
This is the cyclone, that is a 5hp 3ph motor sitting up there. I am making a muffler/ outlet to take the exhaust 1200mm to the right and then out through the wall. This is the larger diameter (20inch) lower resistance cyclone which makes it quite tall and as you can see it uses every bit of height in a 10' shed.
2014-09-28 12.29.23.jpg
This is the layout of my woodworking machinery, I have tried to keep it compact to keep the duct lengths down, its 4.5m from the cyclone inlet to the router table just visible on the right. I think that with this compact layout I am just with in Bill's specs for a 'single car' garage.
I am now working out the ducting plan. I will use 150mm stormwater pipe and will have to get into several of the machines with an angle grinder to enlarge the ports. I have been doing lots of reading and I think that I can see how to lay it out - the bit that I am least sure about is how to connect to the Robland combination machine that is sitting in the middle of the floor?
This machine needs access on all sides and I can see two possible ways of getting the duct to it. The first it to bring a duct down above the hinge for the outfeed table for the jointer, I think that I could make this work but it would be a pain. The other way is to take the duct across the floor, its app 800mm.
2014-09-28 16.01.55.jpg
I don't want a 150mm pipe across that gap and so have been thinking of making up a rectangular section floor duct with tapered sides to minimize the tripping hazzard. This is a sketch of what I have in mind, sorry that it has come out on its ear! The material list reflects stuff that I have around. The internal size, 240 x 75 mm gives a cross section that is slightly larger that 150mm pipe. If I make this I know that I would have to do a decent job of the connections at either end, I could angle the pipes in at 45deg and make proper transitions. I think that I would also want an IP so that I can check it and clear it at need.
2014-09-29 19.27.35.jpg
What do people think? Has anyone done something like this? Any alternative suggestions for ducting the Robland?
Any or all comments and suggestions very welcome.
Regards
Ian
2014-09-28 12.30.38.jpg2014-09-28 12.29.23.jpg2014-09-28 16.01.55.jpg2014-09-29 19.27.35.jpg
Square set opening for windows and doors
Heya guys, I'm at the stage of talking to the mrs about window and door designs and ideas.
She likes the look of the square set openings. I'm sure it's a lot more work but generally speaking with square set openings do sliders and windows still have reveals?
If not, I'd guess that the slider/window needs to be fixed through the aluminium rail around the side?
If reveals are used is there a method of 'filling the gaps where the gyprock is flush with the edge of the reveal without the risk of it cracking?
Read and reply to the full thread at RenovateForum.com....
She likes the look of the square set openings. I'm sure it's a lot more work but generally speaking with square set openings do sliders and windows still have reveals?
If not, I'd guess that the slider/window needs to be fixed through the aluminium rail around the side?
If reveals are used is there a method of 'filling the gaps where the gyprock is flush with the edge of the reveal without the risk of it cracking?
Read and reply to the full thread at RenovateForum.com....
NSW Whiteside straight tongue and groove router bit set 3373
I have a brand new Whiteside 3373 router bit set, was only purchased about a month ago and still has the wax/ glue protective coat to protect the router bits.
Whiteside has been proven to be the best performer in router bits with extended life and sharpness, located in Bathurst NSW but I am happy to post anywhere in Australia. Asking $100
Any questions don't hesitate to call me on 0423 404 364, I will also allow it to be payed off over a few weeks.
Whiteside has been proven to be the best performer in router bits with extended life and sharpness, located in Bathurst NSW but I am happy to post anywhere in Australia. Asking $100
Any questions don't hesitate to call me on 0423 404 364, I will also allow it to be payed off over a few weeks.
What cheap machine heads for a CBG?
hi guys. Being a bit of a TA I`m thinking of some cheapish tuners for the three CBG`s I`m putting together. Any suggestions,,,,don`t do it..lol or get the more exe ones. Any info will be appreciated. cheers, Graeme
1 1/4" mill arbor
Does anyone run a mill with a 1 1/4" horizontal arbor? I was looking through a job lot of cutters I got a long time ago and noticed that one was not 1" but 1 1/4". No good to me at that size.
Michael
Michael
Shaver and Stand
After the trouble with my MC900 and probable bent spindle I decided the best course of action was to purchase a Nova 1624-44 ... cant say the boss was (or is) too happy with that ... I have only had time to turn one small bowl which I have posted in the GENERAL forum and a shaver / brush / stand kit from Tony at Perfect Pens (which I bought AGES ago). I have only done the stand and the razor, and taken a crappy photo of that so far.
The stand I used Cocobolo finished with EEE ultrashine and Shellawax, the razor I have used Camphor Laurel and finished with 5 coats of medium CA glue. I really like the contrast between the dark and light woods, the badger hair brush is also set to be in Camphor.
Shaver-and-stand.jpg
The stand I used Cocobolo finished with EEE ultrashine and Shellawax, the razor I have used Camphor Laurel and finished with 5 coats of medium CA glue. I really like the contrast between the dark and light woods, the badger hair brush is also set to be in Camphor.
Shaver-and-stand.jpg
A small bowl - Yaka / Pacific Rimu
After looking at the MC900 wobble and associated problems with sorting it out I decided to go with a Nova 1624-44 - it was in the price range and the reviews were really positive. It was easy to assemble (with help) and get running.
I decided to turn a small bowl and have also started on a shaver / brush / stand kit I got from Tony at perfect pens (I will post the kit in the pens forum as I think its more appropriate in there).
The bowl was sanded to 600grit and finished with EEE ultra shine and shellawax. I need to work on my tool finishing technique, shear scraping and scraper techniques. There are still plenty of tool marks, especially on the inside. Anyone have any suggestions as to where I can get some lessons formal or informal ? Either Southside - Wynnum etc or Northside close to the Gateway or Bruce Highway ?
Yaka-1.jpg Yaka-2.jpg Yaka-3.jpg Yaka-4.jpg
I decided to turn a small bowl and have also started on a shaver / brush / stand kit I got from Tony at perfect pens (I will post the kit in the pens forum as I think its more appropriate in there).
The bowl was sanded to 600grit and finished with EEE ultra shine and shellawax. I need to work on my tool finishing technique, shear scraping and scraper techniques. There are still plenty of tool marks, especially on the inside. Anyone have any suggestions as to where I can get some lessons formal or informal ? Either Southside - Wynnum etc or Northside close to the Gateway or Bruce Highway ?
Yaka-1.jpg Yaka-2.jpg Yaka-3.jpg Yaka-4.jpg
NSW vicmarc VL200 delux lathe
This is a 1994 Vicmarc lathe with mechanical variable speed from 160rpm to 2500 rpm forward or reverse.Swing over the bed is 400mm and between centres ,1000mm .Head and tail stock are hollow and are 2MT. Drive spindle is M30X3.5 It is fitted with a 1.5 HP moter.It is fitted with an outboard turning facility with a swing of 600mm.
Included are four tool rests,faceplate and spanner,spur drive , tailstock live centre , knockout bar .A separate large banjo is provided for outboard turning.The ouboard handbreak wheel is fitted with a bearing to enable connection of a vacuum chuck.I will also supply a lefthand insert for a VL120 chuck if required since the outboard thread is LH.
This has been a faithfull friend for all my turning career, but I am now going to indulge myself in a VL240 and I need the space for the new lathe.
If you have any questions or would like to come and have a play on the lathe contact me.
Ted
Included are four tool rests,faceplate and spanner,spur drive , tailstock live centre , knockout bar .A separate large banjo is provided for outboard turning.The ouboard handbreak wheel is fitted with a bearing to enable connection of a vacuum chuck.I will also supply a lefthand insert for a VL120 chuck if required since the outboard thread is LH.
This has been a faithfull friend for all my turning career, but I am now going to indulge myself in a VL240 and I need the space for the new lathe.
If you have any questions or would like to come and have a play on the lathe contact me.
Ted
L'invincible S50 Thicknesser- inbuilt blade grinder question?
dimanche 28 septembre 2014
I have owned this machine for quite some time and am pretty happy with it.
DSCF4379.JPG
One thing about it that I have never really understood properly though is the inbuilt blade grinder that it comes with.
DSCF4383.JPG
I understand how it's meant to work but I don't see how your supposed to get the correct grind angle on the blades. Here is a picture with the cover removed to better illustrate the situation.
DSCF4380.JPG And even a close up shot to really home in on the problem area........
DSCF4381.JPG Even though you can adjust the height of the wheel the problem is that I can't see how you can possibly grind the blade to the correct angle. Sure you could grind a new angle but it would be way too flat compared to the angle thicknesser blades are usually ground.
Am I missing something here?
Hoping there is someone out there who also has one of these machines and knows how to get the correct angle, somewhere close to 40 degrees.
DSCF4379.JPG
One thing about it that I have never really understood properly though is the inbuilt blade grinder that it comes with.
DSCF4383.JPG
I understand how it's meant to work but I don't see how your supposed to get the correct grind angle on the blades. Here is a picture with the cover removed to better illustrate the situation.
DSCF4380.JPG And even a close up shot to really home in on the problem area........
DSCF4381.JPG Even though you can adjust the height of the wheel the problem is that I can't see how you can possibly grind the blade to the correct angle. Sure you could grind a new angle but it would be way too flat compared to the angle thicknesser blades are usually ground.
Am I missing something here?
Hoping there is someone out there who also has one of these machines and knows how to get the correct angle, somewhere close to 40 degrees.
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