Hi,
I've read a number of posts here on hand-planing Jarrah and so far what I've tried has not been successful at all. I plan on turning a Jarrah ex-pergola into a workbench similar to the Paul Sellers design though scaled down a bit.
I'm a complete novice with hand-planes. I've just bought a second hand Stanley Bailey No 4 ('vintage' it said - looks nearly new to me with black plastic handles, though a brass adjuster. Never mind.)
I've done all the basics including flattening and honing the iron and straightening it up to 90 degrees and ~ 25 degrees bevel using the Paul Sellers sharpening technique on diamond plates, and finished of with a green polish wheel. No back bevel. I've also flattened the chip breaker face. I've set the chip breaker about 0.5mm back from the blade and the mouth gap is around 1 - 1.5mm. (Though I do get a lot of shavings ending up between the blade and chip-breaker)
I now get to the point where the plane either generates tiny amounts of fine sawdust or occasionally digs a divot out of my test timber - which is ~ 35 years old reclaimed timber.
So my question is what basic settings should I start with on the plane to get it to generate mostly shavings and even better take off significant quantities? I have already roughed the timber with an electric hand plane and saw and will eventually make a number of ~ 65 x 45 x 1600 planks for lamination of the different parts. I need to clean the surfaces for gluing and true up the planks at their final dimensions
My research says the distance between chip breaker and cutting edge is important, as is the gap between the chip-breaker and the mouth leading edge. I guess also blade protrusion depth.
I'd really appreciate a set of magic numbers for these parameters or any others that I can set up, plus advice on adjusting these slightly to get different effects.
Thanks in advance
I've read a number of posts here on hand-planing Jarrah and so far what I've tried has not been successful at all. I plan on turning a Jarrah ex-pergola into a workbench similar to the Paul Sellers design though scaled down a bit.
I'm a complete novice with hand-planes. I've just bought a second hand Stanley Bailey No 4 ('vintage' it said - looks nearly new to me with black plastic handles, though a brass adjuster. Never mind.)
I've done all the basics including flattening and honing the iron and straightening it up to 90 degrees and ~ 25 degrees bevel using the Paul Sellers sharpening technique on diamond plates, and finished of with a green polish wheel. No back bevel. I've also flattened the chip breaker face. I've set the chip breaker about 0.5mm back from the blade and the mouth gap is around 1 - 1.5mm. (Though I do get a lot of shavings ending up between the blade and chip-breaker)
I now get to the point where the plane either generates tiny amounts of fine sawdust or occasionally digs a divot out of my test timber - which is ~ 35 years old reclaimed timber.
So my question is what basic settings should I start with on the plane to get it to generate mostly shavings and even better take off significant quantities? I have already roughed the timber with an electric hand plane and saw and will eventually make a number of ~ 65 x 45 x 1600 planks for lamination of the different parts. I need to clean the surfaces for gluing and true up the planks at their final dimensions
My research says the distance between chip breaker and cutting edge is important, as is the gap between the chip-breaker and the mouth leading edge. I guess also blade protrusion depth.
I'd really appreciate a set of magic numbers for these parameters or any others that I can set up, plus advice on adjusting these slightly to get different effects.
Thanks in advance
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