Babbit bearing job U tube
I saw somebody doing this type of babbit bearing job on a car crankshaft years ago and I always wondered how it was done https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZh2VZbqQiI
Let the shed extensions commmence!
Well, it's been a long time in the planning, thinking and discussion, but I have now started the preparations for a shed extension.
I've gone through numerous plans, most of which include extending the current shed walls out as well as an add-on extension, but my current thinking is to leave the current shed exactly as it is footprint wise, and build a new separate box on the back. This will be MUCH less work on the current shed. Just an internal doorway required through to the new shed which will be the dusty room - all dust making machines will be in there and the current shed will become just handtools and assembly area.
Put a skillion roof on the current shed angled up at 30° facing north, ready for adding solar panels. Skillion roof on the new shed would be angled the opposite way and with a lower pitch (so it doesn't shadow next door too much at all. The roof on the current shed has to be replaced anyway. By going skillion it will be significantly higher than current but this will only shade the shed of next door, and it's not really used for anything but occasional storage anyway.
Continue the roof of the current shed out the front for about 3m and this will provide an outdoor undercover area. I have a cube of creosoted floor joists from the Bowling Club reno down the back. They will make a very solid deck to work on.
I've done very well indeed out of the Bowling Club - we have an excellent symbiotic relationship! :D They've saved about $5000 or more in tipping fees, and I've saved probably the same in materials acquisition. I have somewhere around 5m³ of mainly hardwood and Douglas Fir, including some very long sticks of 8x3", plenty of 6x2, 4x3, 4x2 etc.
The latest score a few weeks ago was 144m² of roofing in excellent condition.:hpydans: These are 12m lengths, 750mm wide, and there will surplus leftover. It would make a very quick fence if necessary. I'll use this for roofing and external walls.
Surplus to requirements was a score from across the road last week of 10 sheets of 6x3' corrugated iron from a roof replacement. Couldn't bear to see it just go to the tip.....:no:
In the attachment layout the blue shed is the current one.
Comments and suggestions most welcome!
SHED DESIGN.pdf
I've gone through numerous plans, most of which include extending the current shed walls out as well as an add-on extension, but my current thinking is to leave the current shed exactly as it is footprint wise, and build a new separate box on the back. This will be MUCH less work on the current shed. Just an internal doorway required through to the new shed which will be the dusty room - all dust making machines will be in there and the current shed will become just handtools and assembly area.
Put a skillion roof on the current shed angled up at 30° facing north, ready for adding solar panels. Skillion roof on the new shed would be angled the opposite way and with a lower pitch (so it doesn't shadow next door too much at all. The roof on the current shed has to be replaced anyway. By going skillion it will be significantly higher than current but this will only shade the shed of next door, and it's not really used for anything but occasional storage anyway.
Continue the roof of the current shed out the front for about 3m and this will provide an outdoor undercover area. I have a cube of creosoted floor joists from the Bowling Club reno down the back. They will make a very solid deck to work on.
I've done very well indeed out of the Bowling Club - we have an excellent symbiotic relationship! :D They've saved about $5000 or more in tipping fees, and I've saved probably the same in materials acquisition. I have somewhere around 5m³ of mainly hardwood and Douglas Fir, including some very long sticks of 8x3", plenty of 6x2, 4x3, 4x2 etc.
The latest score a few weeks ago was 144m² of roofing in excellent condition.:hpydans: These are 12m lengths, 750mm wide, and there will surplus leftover. It would make a very quick fence if necessary. I'll use this for roofing and external walls.
Surplus to requirements was a score from across the road last week of 10 sheets of 6x3' corrugated iron from a roof replacement. Couldn't bear to see it just go to the tip.....:no:
In the attachment layout the blue shed is the current one.
Comments and suggestions most welcome!
SHED DESIGN.pdf
Kyoto lamp wired up and going
Just in time for exhibition and as Mobyturns asked a photo all done
thanks for looking. Seeing faults with it now.
thanks for looking. Seeing faults with it now.
2' router bit coming loose during use
Hello all.
I have a Triton router and recently used a 2" flush trim router bit (1/2" shank) for the first time.
I was trimming 17mm plywood with it. The bit kept on coming loose after routing about 400mm. I reset it and tightened it again and it did the same. it did this about 4 times, at which stage I decided it was not a good idea to keep on doing this. The bit is a Diablo bit sold by Bunnings. I did tighten it as much as I could and have never experienced this before but have never used such a long bit before.
Anyone have any ideas what could be causing this?
Thanks
I have a Triton router and recently used a 2" flush trim router bit (1/2" shank) for the first time.
I was trimming 17mm plywood with it. The bit kept on coming loose after routing about 400mm. I reset it and tightened it again and it did the same. it did this about 4 times, at which stage I decided it was not a good idea to keep on doing this. The bit is a Diablo bit sold by Bunnings. I did tighten it as much as I could and have never experienced this before but have never used such a long bit before.
Anyone have any ideas what could be causing this?
Thanks
Question Re Spraying Cabothane Water Based Satin Poly
I'm just having my first go at finishing a project with Cabothane Water Based Clear Satin PolyU. I've sprayed a few other brands of PolyU finishes (various oil based and some water based), and haven't come across a particular instruction that is included on the Cabothane Water Based can.
The instructions on the Cabothane Water Based PolyU can state that "when spraying, back brushing is recommended".
I'm guessing that "back brushing" is something like "tipping off" that I used to use when brushing oil based gloss paints many years ago - i.e. gently dragging an almost dry brush across the surface, along the grain, normally done to minimise brush marks. But I don't see how that technique would apply to spraying water based PolyU.
So, can someone please advise what the term "back brushing" means ?
Many thanks,
RoyG
The instructions on the Cabothane Water Based PolyU can state that "when spraying, back brushing is recommended".
I'm guessing that "back brushing" is something like "tipping off" that I used to use when brushing oil based gloss paints many years ago - i.e. gently dragging an almost dry brush across the surface, along the grain, normally done to minimise brush marks. But I don't see how that technique would apply to spraying water based PolyU.
So, can someone please advise what the term "back brushing" means ?
Many thanks,
RoyG
QLD Dust extractor bags
Big roll of large plastic bags for a dust extractor. The roll is 1025 tall and the bags are 1530mm between serrations i.e. bag size would be roughly 1025 diameter x 1530 long. They are a larger diameter than my 2hp extractor but I have been folding them over and taping them up which works just fine. Iam no longer using this style of extractor. I have no idea how many bags are on the roll but it would be a significant number judging by the weight of the roll. $40 for the lot. Weight is just under 13kg if you need to look at postage otherwise pickup from Ascot.
Some Bird events.
This post was inspired by Hungry's post in the carving forum in which he shows a noisy miner that has crashed through a window.
I remember as a kid that every morning a pee-wee would attack its reflection in the next door neighbour's bathroom widow. As
a little tacker this always intrigued me. This sort of sight is familiar to all of us I guess and I gues we have all seen the results of
birds having crashed into a window.
When I was building the house on the farm I had such an incident. I had installed the first of three large sliding doors and not long after heard a thud.
On checking I found a dead bird that I did not recognize, except for the fact that it was a finch of some kind. Checking revealed it to be a European
gold finch, a very attractive bird it was too.
The following summer I was picking oranges and found a black shouldered kite impaled on a dead branch of one tree. It must have dived on its prey
and miscued or failed to see the branch.
Another time my first wife was driving out of the Yanco Agricultural Research Station through which runs the Main irrigation canal. As she crossed the
bridge over the canal a duck fell from the sky. The unfortunate duck had been fling along the canal and hit the power lines, where they crossed the
canal at the bridge, and thereby broken its neck. We had duck for dinner the next night.
One time out in south western NSW a mate and I watched in astonishment as wedge tailed eagle landed on a kangaroo carrying a joey. The 'roo immediately
turned for the grey box trees where it succeeded in knocking the eagle from its back.
I once watched a pompous pelican as it eyed a flock of cormorants drive a shoal of fish toward the shallow waters along the shore of a lake. At the
appropriate time the pelican waddled to the water and started cruising among the cormorants. I soon discovered why it had done this. A cormorant near it
dived and came up with a fish . Our pelican friend grabbed the cormorant by the throat, shook it and retrieved the fish. This happened to several other
unsuspecting cormorants before our imperious friend was satiated.
Pelicans enjoy soaring on thermal currents and I have seen them soar to enormous heights and some among them will then point their beaks to the ground
and dive. As the bird gathers speed it and the air rushes over its feathers a whistling sound sets up. On reaching a certain point the pelican opens its wings
and a loud "wump" is heard. How the wings are not ripped off our feathered friends I will never know.
How many others amongst our number have had interesting bird encounters.?
I remember as a kid that every morning a pee-wee would attack its reflection in the next door neighbour's bathroom widow. As
a little tacker this always intrigued me. This sort of sight is familiar to all of us I guess and I gues we have all seen the results of
birds having crashed into a window.
When I was building the house on the farm I had such an incident. I had installed the first of three large sliding doors and not long after heard a thud.
On checking I found a dead bird that I did not recognize, except for the fact that it was a finch of some kind. Checking revealed it to be a European
gold finch, a very attractive bird it was too.
The following summer I was picking oranges and found a black shouldered kite impaled on a dead branch of one tree. It must have dived on its prey
and miscued or failed to see the branch.
Another time my first wife was driving out of the Yanco Agricultural Research Station through which runs the Main irrigation canal. As she crossed the
bridge over the canal a duck fell from the sky. The unfortunate duck had been fling along the canal and hit the power lines, where they crossed the
canal at the bridge, and thereby broken its neck. We had duck for dinner the next night.
One time out in south western NSW a mate and I watched in astonishment as wedge tailed eagle landed on a kangaroo carrying a joey. The 'roo immediately
turned for the grey box trees where it succeeded in knocking the eagle from its back.
I once watched a pompous pelican as it eyed a flock of cormorants drive a shoal of fish toward the shallow waters along the shore of a lake. At the
appropriate time the pelican waddled to the water and started cruising among the cormorants. I soon discovered why it had done this. A cormorant near it
dived and came up with a fish . Our pelican friend grabbed the cormorant by the throat, shook it and retrieved the fish. This happened to several other
unsuspecting cormorants before our imperious friend was satiated.
Pelicans enjoy soaring on thermal currents and I have seen them soar to enormous heights and some among them will then point their beaks to the ground
and dive. As the bird gathers speed it and the air rushes over its feathers a whistling sound sets up. On reaching a certain point the pelican opens its wings
and a loud "wump" is heard. How the wings are not ripped off our feathered friends I will never know.
How many others amongst our number have had interesting bird encounters.?
looking to buy a pen made by a member
Hi you mob,
I would like to buy a pen made by a member. I would like something in an Australian timber, brown colour with nice. I would like the pen slim and easy to hold. I would like the tip to be 0.7mm roller ball and any metal would be silver.
Feel free to post some photos here. Thank in advance.
:U
Cheers Miko
I would like to buy a pen made by a member. I would like something in an Australian timber, brown colour with nice. I would like the pen slim and easy to hold. I would like the tip to be 0.7mm roller ball and any metal would be silver.
Feel free to post some photos here. Thank in advance.
:U
Cheers Miko
NSW Woodworking Magazines - Mixed Bunch - Not An Auction
38 in total, a wide selection of mags purchased and collected over the years.
Asking $30 for the lot - that's less than $1 each. See photos for some of the titles. It is a mixed bag of mags, there are some oldies and some random ones in there.
Cash on pick up please. Pick up weeknights or weekends within 2 weeks from Berowra Heights or weekdays from Brookvale.
Thanks
Jake
Asking $30 for the lot - that's less than $1 each. See photos for some of the titles. It is a mixed bag of mags, there are some oldies and some random ones in there.
Cash on pick up please. Pick up weeknights or weekends within 2 weeks from Berowra Heights or weekdays from Brookvale.
Thanks
Jake
NSW 5hp 3 Phase Motor, 1440 RPM - Not An Auction
Selling a lot of my workshop because we're moving interstate and can't take it with us.
3 phase 5 hp 'Busch Electric' motor, 5/8"shaft, 1440rpm. It came as an alternative motor with my lathe but i don't have 3 phase power.
Untested unfortunately. The shaft spins freely, I was told it was the working motor on my lathe before it was swapped for 240V.
Cash on pick up please. Pick up weeknights or weekends within 2 weeks from Berowra Heights or weekdays from Brookvale.
Thanks
Jake
3 phase 5 hp 'Busch Electric' motor, 5/8"shaft, 1440rpm. It came as an alternative motor with my lathe but i don't have 3 phase power.
Untested unfortunately. The shaft spins freely, I was told it was the working motor on my lathe before it was swapped for 240V.
Cash on pick up please. Pick up weeknights or weekends within 2 weeks from Berowra Heights or weekdays from Brookvale.
Thanks
Jake
Floor Lamp
Done a floor lamp as a birthday present.
Made out of american oak and vic ash on a steel base which was used for stability and cladded in timber
Shade parts were done using tongue and groove... One side had a long tongue with shoulders cut at the angle.. Joining side has a groove.. Bits joined and glued.. extra tongue cut and everything sanded..
Wasn't too fussed about small gaps which I've filled with sawdust and glue as everything would be stained in dark stain which would cover those joins anyway..
2015-06-28 14.01.18.jpgShade sides cut and glued up2015-06-28 14.01.22.jpg
2015-06-28 14.01.33.jpgtop and bottom of the shade
2015-06-28 14.02.01.jpgpole with hollowed centre for the cable
2015-06-28 14.01.06.jpgdry fit to make sure it is snug fit on the base
2015-07-05 17.31.41.jpg2015-07-05 17.31.55.jpgadditional cladding to cover the steel part
2015-07-11 20.10.34.jpg2015-07-11 20.10.58.jpg shade is removable.. Used keyhole bit to do two holes at the bottom of the shade. Stem part has two screws.. Shade is mounted by aligning the holes with screws and simply turn clockwise
2015-07-13 18.24.41.jpg2015-07-13 18.25.09.jpgsemi finished .. tested wiring and everything
2015-07-22 19.35.32.jpg2015-07-22 19.35.38.jpgfinished lamp at its final destination.. :)
Made out of american oak and vic ash on a steel base which was used for stability and cladded in timber
Shade parts were done using tongue and groove... One side had a long tongue with shoulders cut at the angle.. Joining side has a groove.. Bits joined and glued.. extra tongue cut and everything sanded..
Wasn't too fussed about small gaps which I've filled with sawdust and glue as everything would be stained in dark stain which would cover those joins anyway..
2015-06-28 14.01.18.jpgShade sides cut and glued up2015-06-28 14.01.22.jpg
2015-06-28 14.01.33.jpgtop and bottom of the shade
2015-06-28 14.02.01.jpgpole with hollowed centre for the cable
2015-06-28 14.01.06.jpgdry fit to make sure it is snug fit on the base
2015-07-05 17.31.41.jpg2015-07-05 17.31.55.jpgadditional cladding to cover the steel part
2015-07-11 20.10.34.jpg2015-07-11 20.10.58.jpg shade is removable.. Used keyhole bit to do two holes at the bottom of the shade. Stem part has two screws.. Shade is mounted by aligning the holes with screws and simply turn clockwise
2015-07-13 18.24.41.jpg2015-07-13 18.25.09.jpgsemi finished .. tested wiring and everything
2015-07-22 19.35.32.jpg2015-07-22 19.35.38.jpgfinished lamp at its final destination.. :)
WA GMC Magnesium Nailer 18volt
GMC Magnesium Nailer 18volt with two batteries, charger and carry case, $50 pickup only. The unit is in very good condition
WA Carbatec Chisel Mortiser
This is not an auction. One Carbatec chisel mortiser $100, no chisels included. Pickup only.
WA Record 153 Floor Clamps
This is not an auction. 2 x Record 153 floor clamps $150 for the pair. Pickup only.
QLD Two DeWalt 18v XRP batteries and charger
Have advertised this previously but the link has changed.
Two brand new 18v XRP(1.5Ah) slide on batteries plus brand new charger. Never used, never even opened.
Will post for free.
http://ift.tt/1UbLsIR
Two brand new 18v XRP(1.5Ah) slide on batteries plus brand new charger. Never used, never even opened.
Will post for free.
http://ift.tt/1UbLsIR
Second Hand Hammer C3 31
What do forum members think is a fair price for a 15 year old 2000 model Hammer C31 31 with following specs:
1300mm slider
3hp motors
outrigger
fully serviced
mobility kit
Rob
1300mm slider
3hp motors
outrigger
fully serviced
mobility kit
Rob
Old Wadkin Mortiser question
Hi all,
This may be a long shot, but I thought I would ask the question. I'm getting my old mortiser working, not a full restoration at the moment, just operational.
My question relates to the spring return on the chain part. Located in photo's 2 and 3 is a wound spring or 2 that helps the chain to retract. My problem is that the spring no longer has the strength to lift the chain part. I am wondering if this may have the ability to be adjusted/ re-tightened?
I am hesitant to undo the bolts just in case parts fly everywhere and I'm unable to get it back together. (Bad experiences as a kid pulling stuff apart). I have considered putting a pulley and a weight inside the casing similar to the way the chisel works, but would prefer to leave it as original as possible.
Cheers,
Andrew.
This may be a long shot, but I thought I would ask the question. I'm getting my old mortiser working, not a full restoration at the moment, just operational.
My question relates to the spring return on the chain part. Located in photo's 2 and 3 is a wound spring or 2 that helps the chain to retract. My problem is that the spring no longer has the strength to lift the chain part. I am wondering if this may have the ability to be adjusted/ re-tightened?
I am hesitant to undo the bolts just in case parts fly everywhere and I'm unable to get it back together. (Bad experiences as a kid pulling stuff apart). I have considered putting a pulley and a weight inside the casing similar to the way the chisel works, but would prefer to leave it as original as possible.
Cheers,
Andrew.
That's not a mallet!
This is a mallet: 2 hand Mallet.jpg
Of course, you can't appreciate its size 'til you see it alongside a basher that's a bit more 'normal': Mallets cf.jpg
I was trying to split some billets of tough wood, and busted the old thing that I kept for rough work, trying to drive in a wedge. So I decided I needed something with a bit more persuasive power, and dug out some Ironbark I'd been saving for mallet heads, & spent an hour making a thumper with a 1.5kg head, and a handle I could get two hands onto. It looked the part, but after three good wallops on the axe-head 'wedge', I had three-pieces: disaster.jpg :o :C
Not to be defeated, I tried again, this time using a piece of Forest red-gum that I know was a beast to split when I choped up the scraps for firewood. so p'raps it will hold up better. Some test-bashing indicated all was well, so I'm hoping this one will have a slightly longer & more productive life.... :U
Cheers,
Of course, you can't appreciate its size 'til you see it alongside a basher that's a bit more 'normal': Mallets cf.jpg
I was trying to split some billets of tough wood, and busted the old thing that I kept for rough work, trying to drive in a wedge. So I decided I needed something with a bit more persuasive power, and dug out some Ironbark I'd been saving for mallet heads, & spent an hour making a thumper with a 1.5kg head, and a handle I could get two hands onto. It looked the part, but after three good wallops on the axe-head 'wedge', I had three-pieces: disaster.jpg :o :C
Not to be defeated, I tried again, this time using a piece of Forest red-gum that I know was a beast to split when I choped up the scraps for firewood. so p'raps it will hold up better. Some test-bashing indicated all was well, so I'm hoping this one will have a slightly longer & more productive life.... :U
Cheers,
Walnut & Nectarine Pendant Casts
George Watkins posted some stunning cast walnut shell key rings the other day on the IAP site. I have always admired his work and was inspired to give it a go. He used German and Black walnuts however that we don't have in Aus, and the local English walnuts we get here are genetically modified, so have very thin shells and basically no internal walls. I had some peach/nectarine pips in my freezer drying from last season, as you do :rolleyes:, so decided to use some of them to fill the void.
I sanded down each end of the walnut so I could remove the nut. I also sanded down each end of some of the larger nectarine pips at each end then removed their seeds exposing the void. Both ended up ~1" deep and the nectarine pipes fitted neatly inside the walnut. I then made some crosses from small sticks and used some CA to glue them flat. I then stacked and glued 4 sets together inside a 50mm PVC tube using the sticks that were long enough to centralise the walnut shell in the PVC (as well as close as I could).
Cast them with some blue Pearlex in PR. I then sliced them up getting 2 slices per walnut. The walnuts are not central to the cast but the pendants will be turned down to 40mm so I hope I can better centralise them by the time I'm finished.
walnut nectarine pendant blanks.jpg
I sanded down each end of the walnut so I could remove the nut. I also sanded down each end of some of the larger nectarine pips at each end then removed their seeds exposing the void. Both ended up ~1" deep and the nectarine pipes fitted neatly inside the walnut. I then made some crosses from small sticks and used some CA to glue them flat. I then stacked and glued 4 sets together inside a 50mm PVC tube using the sticks that were long enough to centralise the walnut shell in the PVC (as well as close as I could).
Cast them with some blue Pearlex in PR. I then sliced them up getting 2 slices per walnut. The walnuts are not central to the cast but the pendants will be turned down to 40mm so I hope I can better centralise them by the time I'm finished.
walnut nectarine pendant blanks.jpg
Rack em up!!
I'm in need of some substantial shelving to store my green timber. Acting on a tip off I visited a scrap merchant who has a pile of pallet racking beams that he is selling at scrap pricing. A 2.6m beam works out at $5.60. Cheap cheap cheap!!!!
There's only one problem; they don't have any frames. Well 2 problems, because they don't know what make the beams are as there are no markings. I've trolled the internet without success searching for beams that have the same locking pattern. So in desperation I'm reaching out to you guys to see if anyone by chance has a knowledge of these things (or knows someone who has), so I can purchase the right frames and set up an awesome racking system :U
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Cheers Phil
There's only one problem; they don't have any frames. Well 2 problems, because they don't know what make the beams are as there are no markings. I've trolled the internet without success searching for beams that have the same locking pattern. So in desperation I'm reaching out to you guys to see if anyone by chance has a knowledge of these things (or knows someone who has), so I can purchase the right frames and set up an awesome racking system :U
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Cheers Phil
WANTED: Triton Bevel Ripping Guide
G'day...
I'm after a Triton Bevel Ripping Guide to fit my 2000 workcentre.
Preferrably in Victoria... if you have one you'd like to sell - please hit me up.
Happy woodworking.
Mick
I'm after a Triton Bevel Ripping Guide to fit my 2000 workcentre.
Preferrably in Victoria... if you have one you'd like to sell - please hit me up.
Happy woodworking.
Mick
Masters Minwax wipe on poly Sydney CBD
Hi Friends,
I am looking for someone who,
- Lives close to a Masters Hardware, and
- Is kind enough to buy a tin of MinWax Satin wipe-on poly for me (946ml, if not then 473ml). Like this one http://ift.tt/1IwI8nw, and
- Works in Sydney CBD
If this is you then I will be more than happy to buy you lunch. :U
Cheers,
Scott
I am looking for someone who,
- Lives close to a Masters Hardware, and
- Is kind enough to buy a tin of MinWax Satin wipe-on poly for me (946ml, if not then 473ml). Like this one http://ift.tt/1IwI8nw, and
- Works in Sydney CBD
If this is you then I will be more than happy to buy you lunch. :U
Cheers,
Scott
Time to confess!!!!
CONFESSION TIME you lot.... I have just pulled out the 3 buckets of offcuts I kept "just in case" and the huge pile of other long trimmings stacked against one wall - so big I couldn't use the lathe properly... :no:
How many of you can't throw out even the smallest scrap of pine or MDF... all with the good intention of using it later??? :roll:
My pile was ridiculous. A gigantic clag that was taking over my usable space. Absolutely nothing in it I couldn't cut within 20 seconds, but there it sat for 3 years... building and building and building. There isn't any exotic Zebrano or purpleheart or fiddlebacked walnut.... its all.... crap!!!
Its time to PURGE!!!!! Its going into the fire bin!!!! :angfire:
How many of you can't throw out even the smallest scrap of pine or MDF... all with the good intention of using it later??? :roll:
My pile was ridiculous. A gigantic clag that was taking over my usable space. Absolutely nothing in it I couldn't cut within 20 seconds, but there it sat for 3 years... building and building and building. There isn't any exotic Zebrano or purpleheart or fiddlebacked walnut.... its all.... crap!!!
Its time to PURGE!!!!! Its going into the fire bin!!!! :angfire:
Adding in a bay window
jeudi 30 juillet 2015
A little bit of extra luxury in the main bedroom
And another last minute change of plans
We are thinking about putting in a small cantilevered bay window to accept the new Rylock window.
The initial thought we just gave to the builder is to sister in floor joists in 90*45 F-17 LVL as we are only going to go 450mm to the eaves dimension
Just a small rectangular box and somewhere to sit to get dressed with a blanket box underneath a seat
Can anybody see a problem with designing and framing this up?
A good days labour for a chippie plus apprentice?
Read and reply to the full thread at RenovateForum.com....
And another last minute change of plans
We are thinking about putting in a small cantilevered bay window to accept the new Rylock window.
The initial thought we just gave to the builder is to sister in floor joists in 90*45 F-17 LVL as we are only going to go 450mm to the eaves dimension
Just a small rectangular box and somewhere to sit to get dressed with a blanket box underneath a seat
Can anybody see a problem with designing and framing this up?
A good days labour for a chippie plus apprentice?
Read and reply to the full thread at RenovateForum.com....
Cutting a suspended floor slab
Bathroom renovation.
The east and west walls are approx 2100mm. The north and south walls are approx 1500mm. The toilet is in the corner of the south wall, that adjoins the west wall.
I want to move the toilet to the east wall, about 600mm down from the north wall.
I am unable to get under the floor slab, so I will need to cut a channel in the slab from its current position to the new position, approx 1500mm long and 100mm wide, ie from the SW corner to almost the NE corner, to accommodate the pipe for the new toilet location.
The floor slab is approx 50mm thick, with no reo. It is about 500mm off the ground. There is a single skin supporting wall runs the width of the terrace from N to S, under the slab, and is about 550mm from the east wall. The east wall is single skin brick, sitting on earth (this is a very old terrace). The west wall is a main supporting wall, that runs the width of the terrace, with a door opening beside the north wall of the bathroom.
Do you think it advisable to cut the slab?:question:
Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...
The east and west walls are approx 2100mm. The north and south walls are approx 1500mm. The toilet is in the corner of the south wall, that adjoins the west wall.
I want to move the toilet to the east wall, about 600mm down from the north wall.
I am unable to get under the floor slab, so I will need to cut a channel in the slab from its current position to the new position, approx 1500mm long and 100mm wide, ie from the SW corner to almost the NE corner, to accommodate the pipe for the new toilet location.
The floor slab is approx 50mm thick, with no reo. It is about 500mm off the ground. There is a single skin supporting wall runs the width of the terrace from N to S, under the slab, and is about 550mm from the east wall. The east wall is single skin brick, sitting on earth (this is a very old terrace). The west wall is a main supporting wall, that runs the width of the terrace, with a door opening beside the north wall of the bathroom.
Do you think it advisable to cut the slab?:question:
Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...
Arboga EM825 Mill Drill
I have just purchased one of these mills, could anybody tell me the maximum hole size for the drill press and if the drill bit happened to jam would it strip the fibre gears in the gearbox straight away. Also how often do i oil the oiling points.
If anybody has any information at all on these machines ie performance, specs, operations manuals it would be greatly appreciated.
If anybody has any information at all on these machines ie performance, specs, operations manuals it would be greatly appreciated.
Polyester resin stays tacky
As the title suggests, i'm having trouble with polyester resin casting, it stays tacky anywhere it has been in contact with air. I know that it's a "feature" to enable multiple pours to stick together properly but how can i stop it? turning sticky goopy blanks is pretty horrible.
I'm definitely using enough catalyst as the rest of the blank sets hard.
Cheers,
James
I'm definitely using enough catalyst as the rest of the blank sets hard.
Cheers,
James
Coffee bean blanks
Hi all,
Just wondering who has had experience with coffee bean casting into pen blanks? and if there are any gotcha's to look out for. I read a post from dai sensei saying that some of the beans shrunk, anyone else had the problem?
I tried beans in PVC pipe with polyester resin and overnight in the pressure pot but it turned out crap, full of bubbles that couldn't escape around the beans and the resin was quite viscous.
Also how do you get all the air out from around the coffee beans? I've got a pressure pot and a vacuum chamber plus cactus juice and polyester resin but i reckon the polyester resin will set up before i can get the bubbles out.
my sister's partner has his 21st birthday coming up and he is a barista and loves his coffee so i figured a coffee bean pen would be a good fit.
Cheers,
James
Just wondering who has had experience with coffee bean casting into pen blanks? and if there are any gotcha's to look out for. I read a post from dai sensei saying that some of the beans shrunk, anyone else had the problem?
I tried beans in PVC pipe with polyester resin and overnight in the pressure pot but it turned out crap, full of bubbles that couldn't escape around the beans and the resin was quite viscous.
Also how do you get all the air out from around the coffee beans? I've got a pressure pot and a vacuum chamber plus cactus juice and polyester resin but i reckon the polyester resin will set up before i can get the bubbles out.
my sister's partner has his 21st birthday coming up and he is a barista and loves his coffee so i figured a coffee bean pen would be a good fit.
Cheers,
James
Renovating single hung sash windows
As part of decorating a house that I've just bought, I need to give the single hung sash windows a coat of paint. It looks like it would be easier to do this if the lower sash were removed (only the lower moves - I think I'm right in saying that this is what identifies it as 'single hung'?). And as some of the windows don't 'run' too smoothly, it would also be an opportunity to give the workings a bit of a service.
The windows are wooden and probably date from the 50's or 60's. I can see that there's a thin metal plate on each side of the window which is probably covering the workings, but I'm not really sure how to go about taking them to bits and (perhaps more importantly) how to put them back together again.
Can anyone offer any tips - are they pretty simple to dismantle and reassemble?
Read and reply to the full thread at RenovateForum.com....
The windows are wooden and probably date from the 50's or 60's. I can see that there's a thin metal plate on each side of the window which is probably covering the workings, but I'm not really sure how to go about taking them to bits and (perhaps more importantly) how to put them back together again.
Can anyone offer any tips - are they pretty simple to dismantle and reassemble?
Read and reply to the full thread at RenovateForum.com....
glass jar
found glass jars in coles . they are fairly thick glass and they are about 250mm tall by 100mm OD they have a silver screw top lid if you are looking for them and they are in the isle where the soup bowls ,plates and stuff is located $5 each . i just grabbed one to see how it wouldunder vacuum . seems to be working just fine and will be ideal when not wanting to vac a lot at one time . i just cut a few blanks in half after giving them about 20 hours in the dehydrator . i just wanted to test out my new setup pump ,and gauge and and fittings so on.
johno
johno
bending Gal. pipe - how to
Hi I have this project . I am making a canvas frame for my little 1940 chevy military truck. I restored this truck many years ago, and never got around to making the frame for it . The frame is 3/4"gal pipe with a OD of just over 1" . A fellow Chevy owner sent me these pics of the frame . Does anyone have any ideas, tips on how to bend the corners to a 6"radius ? Maybe I need to make a jig . there are 3 bows to make . The folding legs on the side are for removing the frame and setting it up on the ground as a shelter . Thanks Mike. PS the chap who has this frame lives in Canada ..hence the white stuff
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