The bandsaw mill I'm trying to get working is causing me headaches because it won't cut straight.
I think I have narrowed it down to the band/blade not being flat. This is widely discussed on the web and applies to blades of about 1.25" and bigger.
The theory is that during repeated use the band becomes cupped across the band as shown in A.
This is somewhat counter intuitive as one might expect the crown of the wheels to cup the band in the opposite direction.
The phenomenon even has a special name as is called "Anti-Clastic Curvature"
The result of a band that has this curve is that as it enters and cuts wood the blade dives in the cut as shown in B
The way the blades are flattened is using a pair of rollers that look like C.
I find it hard to believe that they will flatten the blade but apparently they do.
I would expect the rollers to be more effective if Roller 1 was concave
These rollers are commercially available but cost a bomb so I am looking for ideas that don't require me to make a set completely from scratch.
I think I have narrowed it down to the band/blade not being flat. This is widely discussed on the web and applies to blades of about 1.25" and bigger.
The theory is that during repeated use the band becomes cupped across the band as shown in A.
This is somewhat counter intuitive as one might expect the crown of the wheels to cup the band in the opposite direction.
The phenomenon even has a special name as is called "Anti-Clastic Curvature"
The result of a band that has this curve is that as it enters and cuts wood the blade dives in the cut as shown in B
The way the blades are flattened is using a pair of rollers that look like C.
I find it hard to believe that they will flatten the blade but apparently they do.
I would expect the rollers to be more effective if Roller 1 was concave
These rollers are commercially available but cost a bomb so I am looking for ideas that don't require me to make a set completely from scratch.
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