My 20-something daughter has taken up sewing and is really enjoying it. I have been inspired by some antique sewing tables that I have seen. They have a compartment "box" on legs of some description and then they have a lift-out or slide-away tray on top that is divided into small compartments to hold cotton reels, needles, thimbles etc. So I decided to make her a sewing box for her birthday (she doesn't have room for a sewing table).
A couple of years ago at the Brisbane TWWW show I picked up a piece of burl Leatherwood (Eucryphia lucida) from Trevor Gaskell's stall. I had seen the tree growing and have enjoyed the leatherwood honey, but that is the first time, and only time that I have seen a piece of the timber. Not long after I bought it I bandsawed it into two thinner slices and glued it together in a book-match. Then it went on the shelf. This year I decided to make the box so at this year's show I bought some relatively plain Huon Pine boards from Trevor's stall. I wanted the relatively plain figure so it would not fight with the Leatherwood top.
Here are some photos of the box construction in progress, before I made the drop-in tray (which is not quite complete).
1 Dry assembly with tape.JPG1. dry assembly 2 clamping with Aldi clamps after glue applied.JPG 2. clamp up time 3 another view of clamp-up.JPG 3. more clamp-up 4 Leatherwood bookmatched top.JPG
4. the lid of book-matched Leatherwood 5 another view of the top with polish.JPG 5. After I started to polish the outside of the box 6 box open showing cedar base.JPG 6. Box open with hinges 7 Anton Gerner quadrant hinges fitted.JPG 7. close up of hinges
I used my table saw to cut the mitres and a router to cut grooves for the top and bottom of the box. I made the bottom out of two six mm thick slices of Australian cedar that I glued together at 90 degrees to each other using polyurethane adhesive to get a dimensionally stable base that could be glued in place. I trimmed the top to so that it floats in the groove. Having laid out the sides end to end I applied masking tape before I rolled it up with the top and bottom fitted into the grooves. I polished the insides of the box and the top and bottom of the base and Leatherwood with shellac before I assembled it. I used UBeaut clear shellac for the Leatherwood top as I wanted the natural colour to show through. I used brown button shellac for the Huon to give it a richer golden colour.
I assembled it dry first to make sure I had the joints tight. Then I unrolled it, applied Titebond 3 to the mitres and the sides of the base before I rolled it up (assembled it) and used my Aldi strap clamps to tighten the joints.
Once the Titebond had set I used my bandsaw to cut the lid from the base of the box. I cleaned up the cut surfaces and fitted Anton Gerner's quadrant hinges (using a router and home-made template). I have not yet fitted a lock as I have to decide which type to use. I am hanging out for the Neat brand full-mortise locks from England to become available as they can be installed so "neatly" with a router and jig. If they take too long I will have to fit a half mortise lock.
I am now working on making the drop-in tray and dividers and will post more photos when I have that complete.
A couple of years ago at the Brisbane TWWW show I picked up a piece of burl Leatherwood (Eucryphia lucida) from Trevor Gaskell's stall. I had seen the tree growing and have enjoyed the leatherwood honey, but that is the first time, and only time that I have seen a piece of the timber. Not long after I bought it I bandsawed it into two thinner slices and glued it together in a book-match. Then it went on the shelf. This year I decided to make the box so at this year's show I bought some relatively plain Huon Pine boards from Trevor's stall. I wanted the relatively plain figure so it would not fight with the Leatherwood top.
Here are some photos of the box construction in progress, before I made the drop-in tray (which is not quite complete).
1 Dry assembly with tape.JPG1. dry assembly 2 clamping with Aldi clamps after glue applied.JPG 2. clamp up time 3 another view of clamp-up.JPG 3. more clamp-up 4 Leatherwood bookmatched top.JPG
4. the lid of book-matched Leatherwood 5 another view of the top with polish.JPG 5. After I started to polish the outside of the box 6 box open showing cedar base.JPG 6. Box open with hinges 7 Anton Gerner quadrant hinges fitted.JPG 7. close up of hinges
I used my table saw to cut the mitres and a router to cut grooves for the top and bottom of the box. I made the bottom out of two six mm thick slices of Australian cedar that I glued together at 90 degrees to each other using polyurethane adhesive to get a dimensionally stable base that could be glued in place. I trimmed the top to so that it floats in the groove. Having laid out the sides end to end I applied masking tape before I rolled it up with the top and bottom fitted into the grooves. I polished the insides of the box and the top and bottom of the base and Leatherwood with shellac before I assembled it. I used UBeaut clear shellac for the Leatherwood top as I wanted the natural colour to show through. I used brown button shellac for the Huon to give it a richer golden colour.
I assembled it dry first to make sure I had the joints tight. Then I unrolled it, applied Titebond 3 to the mitres and the sides of the base before I rolled it up (assembled it) and used my Aldi strap clamps to tighten the joints.
Once the Titebond had set I used my bandsaw to cut the lid from the base of the box. I cleaned up the cut surfaces and fitted Anton Gerner's quadrant hinges (using a router and home-made template). I have not yet fitted a lock as I have to decide which type to use. I am hanging out for the Neat brand full-mortise locks from England to become available as they can be installed so "neatly" with a router and jig. If they take too long I will have to fit a half mortise lock.
I am now working on making the drop-in tray and dividers and will post more photos when I have that complete.
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