mars 2015

Relaunch - Open Days - New Products - Revamped Showroom

mardi 31 mars 2015

Good Afternoon Woodies

here is the information on or relaunch, open days, New products and Revamped showroom, please come and join us!

We hope you can make it

Best Wishes for a Happy & Safe Easter

Wanita & Team

Attached Files

relaunchopendays.pdf (439.7 KB)

Saw Handle Workmanship.

For those interested in a close up view of the handles on Bad Axe Backsaws.

Stewie;

http://ift.tt/1F1lM7Y

Penny Leaf Bowl

Whilst at the BBQ I held at Tooradin (see http://ift.tt/1FIGaPb) I did some turning of a decent chunk of Penny Leaf (Dalbergia sissoo), also known as Indian Rosewood I got from MkyTurner (Troy) last time I was in Mackay . It was finally finished today and wow the photos just can't do justice to this timber. It is browns and yellows, but the yellows are translucent giving an amazing chatoyance to the grain. It also had holes and a huge bark inclusion that I filled with brass powder. The bowl is sanded to 600 before applying a nitrocellulose satin lacquer finish. About 500mmd dia x 150mm deep.

bowl.jpg bowl top.jpg bowl base.jpg

bowl profile.jpg bowl detail.jpg

There is a line that looks like a scratch on the bottom (top left) but is actually a small translucent yellow line cutting across the other grain. I've never seen anything like this, and did a fair bit of sanding before I realised it was in the wood :rolleyes:

Now a gift to Julie sitting on the dinning table looking so fine :cool:

Attached Images

bowl base.jpg (91.8 KB)

bowl detail.jpg (78.9 KB)

bowl profile.jpg (225.5 KB)

bowl top.jpg (103.7 KB)

bowl.jpg (65.5 KB)

Yet another wishing well

Made from old pallets. I wasn't that fussy. It's going to be a planter box.

Attached Images

Pic_0419_675.jpg (257.3 KB)

Please Help

BROTHER JOHN PATRICK O'ROURKE

SOUTHEASTERN AREA RESCUE MISSION

OF MELBOURNE

Dear Friend:

Perhaps you have heard of me and my work on a nationwide basis in the cause of Temperance. Each Winter for the past fourteen years, I have made a tour of Victoria, New South Wales and South Australia, and have delivered a series of lectures on the evils of drinking. On these tours, I have been accompanied by my young friend, I.O. Silver. I.O., a former Loan Arranger, and a young man of good family and excellent background, was a pathetic example of a life ruined by excessive indulgence in whiskey and women of questionable character.

I.O. would appear with me at the lectures and sit on the platform in his rumpled white suit, wheezing and staring at the audience through his bleary bloodshot eyes, sweating profusely, picking his nose, passing gas, and making obscene gestures at the audience, while I would point him out as an example of what over-indulgence can do to a person.

Last year, unfortunately, I.O. passed away. A mutual friend has given me your name, and I wonder if you would be available to take I.O.'s place on my 2015 Winter tour.

Thank you for your assistance.

Yours in Faith,

Brother John Patrick O'Rourke

QLD WANTED: Hollows and Rounds

Hi all,

I've been wanting to try some mouldings for some time, using hollows and rounds and missed those being sold on the weekend by 5 minutes. I'd ideally like two pairs in working condition, hopefully medium sized but spaced a little apart i.e. 5 and 8 or 6 and 10 but will consider any offers.

Ebay etc is full of questionable plane shaped things at high prices. If someone had some that work or just needed blade reconditioning I'd be very interested.

Full Boar Dust Extractor

I am in the market for a cheap but effective dust extraction system and spotted the Full Boar Dust Extractor at Bunnings. Has anyone had any experience with this product that could give me a heads up on whether to spend $230 odd on it.

Cheers

CNC Demonstration Bookings Essential

Good Morning Everyone, I hope you are all fit and well, our contractor is back and our renovations are nearly complete so the re-launch is back on, April 16th/17th & 18th we hope you can join us. We are taking bookings now for demonstrations on the CNC so book now.

We look forward to seeing you

Best wishes for a safe Easter.

Wanita & Team

Attached Files

Woodman 6090 CNC demonstration.pdf (621.0 KB)

Renovators forum

Hey guys, trying to find that forum that used to be attached to us here. Lost it with an app upgrade and can't find it anymore.

Anyone know what it is called or have a link

Thanks

Dave the turning cowboy

turning wood into art

Venting on external enclosure

(apologies if this turns up twice - issues posting!)

I want to vent my dusty outside the garage - keeping the machine inside (for noise and electrical wiring reasons) and putting the bag + filter bag outside under an existing lean-to. I'd like to build an enclosure around the bags to minimise the noise+dust for the neighbours and to protect the bags a bit more from the elements. (I'm not overly close to the neighbours, and they've said they are fine with the noise, but happy neighbours are important!)

I'm not sure how to approach venting the external enclosure - I know you need at a minimum two times the diameter of the air intake, but if you just have an opening all the noise and dust is going to just come straight out of there. If you cover the vent you're going to need to make it bigger...

Whats the best way to approach this?

Thanks!

New Bride

A new bride went crying to her mother.

"Momma, I can't get Neil to do anything.

I want him to fix up the house, and he keeps putting it off."

"Honey," her mother replied, "after being married to your father for

thirty years, I've found the only way to get him to do anything is to tell

him he's too old."

Mum ain't Mom anymore

At the supermarket, I noticed a woman with four boys and a

baby. Her patience was wearing thin as the boys called out,

"Mommy! Mommy!" while she tried to shop.

Finally, she blurted out, "I don't want to hear the word

mommy for at least ten minutes!"

The boys fell silent for a few seconds. Then one tugged on

his mother's dress and said softly, "Excuse me, lady."

Help appreciated, Star-M hinge Drill question

Hi guys. Not being local i'm an occasional poster.

I'd appreciate some help if possible with Star-M hinge drills. It seems they are distributed in Oz, so i'm hoping somebody may be familiar.

Having heard excellent reports i bought a set from a Euro supplier who offers a premium Japanese made Star-M product, and a 1/3 priced budget Taiwanese made alternative. (implicitly also by Star-M and on the same page, although the former is not explicitly stated - the designs are very similar indeed, and probably share parts) Trouble is I've been supplied with what looks like the Taiwanese item in Star-M blister packaging. The Japanese product looks to be dimensionally more or less identical, but is polished rather than having a satin/bead blasted and plated finish, has eased shoulders and the name is stamped into it rather than printed - pic from a different EBay supplier here: http://ift.tt/1HfgiJo.

The concern is that the premium product may very well be made to tighter tolerances, and be different in detail respects that matter. I've meanwhile paid for the premium set and need a reliably performing tool.

Trouble is that if they actually are the budget item they could (judging by the majority of other brands on our local market) prove problematical as a result of poor fits and finishes. The supplier is stonewalling - avoiding the obvious difference in their own write up and photos that position the obviously different Japanese item as the premium product, and falling back to the argument that i ordered and was supplied with Star-M items. Against that they normally deliver excellent service. The situation is complicated by the fact that the Star-M english language catalogue coming up on the web doesn't even list a set of hinge drills - so checking hasn't been possible.

There's no question but that the two products are closely related, and for sure what i have is Star-M branded. It's very possible that all is well, that Star-M has made a running change and started using the Taiwanese supplier, but that the product is better than the budget stuff and to acceptable standards. Or they have simply started supplying the budget product in place of their own, and my supplier is conveniently ignoring this - even if the budget product is just fine.

Anybody know what the story might be? I can keep or return what i have, or could even exchange them for the budget product - but the right course of action depends on the specifics.

Thanks, ian

My 3hp Dust Extractor

I've got the extractor, and just need some time to install some ducting and get everything up and running. I took some pictures as I assembled it, but it's so simple it's hardly worth posting them. Being single, I'm allowed to assemble stuff like this in the lounge, and the only funny looks I get are from the dog.

IMG_1095.jpg

This is the inlet, with the 160mm coupling on it. You can see the grate and reduction in diameter, which drops the area from a nominal 200 square cm down to 102 square cm. That will need an angle grinder to open it up to the full diameter. The outlet is 150mmx120mm, with an area of 180 square cm (and rectangular), so I suspect that will become the limiting factor once I open up the inlet.

IMG_1097.jpg

The couplings. The bends aren't ideal, basically being angled, and it took me a few hours to smooth over the joints on the inside, where they were very jagged and had large overlaps. They're all 160mm stormwater piping and what they lack in sophistication, they make up for by being the cheapest I could get. I may start to replace them if the sharpness of the corners is an issue, but I suspect with 160mm pipe all the way through, that the inlet on the extractor is the main limiting factor here.

IMG_1071.jpg

The coupling I plan to use as a bell mouth to suck dust from the lathe.

IMG_1091.jpg

I just wish I had access to instruments to test airflow so that I could quantify any improvements, without which, anything I do is for my own benefit only, and can't easily be shared with the community.

I'll post pics of the ducting as and when I manage to install it. Don't hold your breath, while I'm hoping it's this weekend, things have a way of getting delayed...

Attached Images

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IMG_1097.jpg (118.0 KB)

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IMG_1091.jpg (126.0 KB)

Elu Belt Sander parts

I have an old but faithful Elu belt sander. This is the smaller model 157/02 with variable speed. Unfortunately my sole plate is needing to be replaced. Does anyone have one of these sanders that is knackered and/or suitable for parts.

I'm also after one the larger Elu's that either has or will accept the "Depth Frame". These were new around the early 80's. Preferably still in working order.

Any help would be appreciated and I'm happy to cover postage costs.

Regards. Daryl

Greeting

Happy All Fools Day!

:roflmao2::)):roflmao::laughing1:

Enjoy

Leg Cleek

have been given two large chunks of wood i dont know what it is mayby you guys do

Its amazing how hard it is to work took me over a hour to take a slice off it . It burnt a drill bit out whilst i was drilling a hole fo the threaded rod insert for the leg cleek

still some tidying up to do on it. It does have some woodworm in it its amazing they survive in wood as hard as this ?

I managed to salvage it from being burnt , the guy thought the tree was over 600 years old? .It had been felled during a strom some years ago and just left . but he wanted rid of it . Hoping to get some more of him.It does have some woodworm tried to work round it but its just to nice a wood grian to leave. i treated the wood worm section of it with PVA as it was softer there . Still needs tidying up yet but getting there. I found it better to use a rasp on it its to hard for the chisel and mallet although the rotary tool can tackle it

wood vurr 014.JPG wood vurr 007.JPG burr wood 001.JPG burr wood 005.JPG burr wood 010.JPG leg cleek 006.JPG leg cleek 007.JPG

Attached Images

wood vurr 014.JPG (114.6 KB)

wood vurr 007.JPG (150.4 KB)

burr wood 001.JPG (149.6 KB)

burr wood 005.JPG (126.2 KB)

burr wood 010.JPG (125.6 KB)

leg cleek 006.JPG (48.6 KB)

leg cleek 007.JPG (49.5 KB)

Puppets Heads

a few glove puppets heads not finished as of yet other things keeping me busy

p&j hiking (17).jpg p&j hiking (14).JPG p&j hiking (15).JPG p&j hiking (18).JPG

Attached Images

p&j hiking (17).jpg (243.2 KB)

p&j hiking (14).JPG (108.2 KB)

p&j hiking (15).JPG (95.1 KB)

p&j hiking (18).JPG (89.4 KB)

Bargain on Gray's

Email from Gray's advertising a $5 Ferrari.... :D

Recycling Bin

I was visiting my daughter, a successful young professional, when I

noticed half a piece of French bread in its original wrapper in her

recycling bin.

When I told her that she shouldn't put bread in the recycling bin,

she said, "Why not? It tastes like cardboard!"

Powder coating hinges? DIY available?

Wisdom needed here brains trust!....

I make MDF wooden boxes for a kids toy chain and get all my brass hinges from Zenith and screws from China (500 and 2000 at a time). Naturally I make HEAPS of them at a go. (man-o-man can I rebate and attach a hinge like a machine now!)

I have a supplier who will give me 50 pairs of plain steel at an awesome price. The samples are exceptional. They are not plated. Just goozed to stop rust.

The boxes are invariably painted white or any number of rainbow of colours provided by Haymes. Painting the hinges is not cool - despite being "cheap" material, the end product is finished perfectly and individually hand painted/crafted/art.

My question is, rather than plated brass (which is nice), I'd REALLY love to provide the hinges colour coded to the boxes by powder coating them.

Does anyone know how one would power coat metals at home, with good quality results without death-toxic fogs of cancer? Kits? Process? Magic?

P.S. I ask, as every powder coating company wants a new Ferrari for the driveway for doing 500 hinges...

(This is only a side comment, but gosh-darn willikers is it hard to get stuff manufactured for you here. It seems like we don't make a single damned thing - engineering companies seem to be just importers from a catalogue. You wouldn't believe how hard it is to get hinges made for you.... i.e, YOU CAN'T)

Help to identify tree

Hi Everyone.

I'm removing this tree and wondering if anyone can id it for me, please? I've no idea what it is.

The last photo has a few stray leaves in it: it's the log I'm showing there only.

It's about 20 metres tall. The leaves are a little wavy on the ridges. There were occasional small bumps, protruding less than 1cm from the trunk, though I'm not sure if that's very helpful. I couldn't see any flowers or fruit.

Thanks very much.

Attached Images

identify tree 1.jpg (97.8 KB)

identify tree 2.jpg (173.1 KB)

identify tree 3.jpg (85.8 KB)

identify tree 4.jpg (158.7 KB)

identify tree 5.jpg (148.8 KB)

identify tree 6.jpg (229.1 KB)

identify tree 7.jpg (173.8 KB)

A '49 proto "dirty snake" rolls out

Hi All

Just need to brag about my 'dirty snake', completed over the Christmas break.

It's an interpretation Leo Fenders 'snake head' 1949 prototype that predated his Broadcaster come Telecaster / Esquire models released in 1950.

The body is made from old pine shelving laminated and sanded to thickness (Fender used laminations of 3/4" American east coast white pine that he had in his factory for making amplifier cabinets).

My neck is select Tasmanian Oak with a maple fingerboard. Yep Tassie Oak, but selected well for lightweight, straight grain, 90 degree quarter sawn, and no resin cavities/splits. A truss rod was included (lack of one was a failing of the original prototype). I couldn’t find 4mm dot markers in black anywhere so I cast them in dyed epoxy using 4mm holes drilled in a length of 3mm thick aluminium extrusion.

Pick guard, control plate and 'slotted' screws set and neck plate came from a specialist supplier in the US and are replicas of the original prototype - and were surprisingly low cost.

Tuning machines, bridge plate and knobs are from StewMac in the US. Fret wire and truss rod were from Australian Luthier Supplies.

Body is finished in 'antique white' then distressed. Neck is finished in dyed shellac and distressed by removing some using methylated spirits. Neck and body were sprayed with two light coats of matt finish. The color scheme inspired by the ‘dirty snake’ Keith Urban is seen with in the YouTube “Keith Urban At: Guitar Center”.

The pickup I fitted is a Bill Lawrence T2 giving clean clear tone like Keith’s but then really growls with some gain.

The current StewMac bridge plate (standard 'vintage Telecaster' style) is not correct for the '49 prototype. I have a small pending project to recreate an original prototype pattern.

Overall I am really so happy with how this interpretation of Leo's '49 proto turned out. It's only my second guitar build and currently my ‘go to’ guitar. Not bad for a parts cost of about AU$160.

Cheers!

See photo attached.

CGB Dirty Snake -1.jpg

Attached Images

CGB Dirty Snake -1.jpg (48.6 KB)

WANTED: Work Experience in Perth

Hi all,

Been around on the forums for a while, and I've jumped into a cabinetmaking pre-app course at TAFE. One of the requirements is work experience, and thusfar I have been unsuccessful securing any. I've had a lot of luck with other things on these forums before though, so I thought I'd throw it out there.

I am a hard worker, I have some skills already, and I'm keen to learn about the trade.

Anyone in Perth with a business manufacturing furniture, cabinets, or similar, who wants some free labour, with insurance covered by the TAFE, please do contact me.

Looking forward to hearing from you all (I'm optimistic too)!

Metal Work on Sydney Northern Beaches

Been trying to talk a friend into joining the Shed I am with but he is more interested in metal rather than wood.

Are there any options around the area?

Thanks

TV unit and shelfs

Hi Guys

Finally started building the shelf's and TV unit that my wife has been harassing me about.

pics attached. Have just started the second one now.....

Used MDF and sprayed with 2 pack came up well.

Attached Images

1. bottom frame 2.jpg (116.4 KB)

2. bottom frame.jpg (109.8 KB)

3. doors.jpg (104.6 KB)

4. door test.jpg (131.7 KB)

5. top before undercoat.jpg (119.5 KB)

6. top in progress.jpg (99.3 KB)

7 all doors.jpg (166.7 KB)

8 single door.jpg (59.1 KB)

9 Final Bottom.jpg (96.4 KB)

final.jpg (122.2 KB)

Baffle Box/muffler for DC enclosures

Several members have asked me about baffle boxes and mufflers for DC enclosures so rather than respond every time I will start a thread about it.

The type of muffler/baffle box that should be used depends on a number of factors such as, how loud the noise is you want to attenuate, the level of sound reduction you want to achieve, and where the sound is coming from.

A simple tube or long rectangular box made of a hardish material (e.g. chip board or MDF) lined with a few inches of foam rubber may be sufficient to vent air out of the enclosure.

OTOH if you wish to reduce the noise level even further some sort of baffle box is one way of doing this.

Baffle boxes can be made in may ways and the one I will show is just one example. Unlike car mufflers and such like the cross section of the air path should not be constrained in any way.

Because Baffle boxes require the air to turn through multiple 90º turns this will add to the back pressure of the DC and reduce the flow at the source of the dust collection. To get around this the cross sectional are of the air path should be at least double (and preferably quadruple) the cross sectional area of the air intake to the DC.

The baffle box consists of a large rectangular tube (made from something hard like MDF of other timber) that has a series of evenly spaced board (baffles) that protrude into the internal space

The baffles and the entire internal structure of the box should be lined with a sound absorbing material (SAM) like soft dense foam rubber or similar material, thick carpet would be OK.

The length of the baffles should be long enough to force a full 90º turn in the air path. Sorter baffles will still work but not as effectively.

Remember to take the SAM thickness into account when designing the box because the x2 cross sectional area recommendation does not include the area occupied by the thickness of the SAM.

The more baffles and thicker the SAM you have the better the sound reduction will be but of course the greater the restriction to flow. To get around this problem you can make the air path cross section greater but that will allow more sound to escape.

Rather than the number of baffles used, another way to think about a baffle box is to count the number of 90º turns the air has to make.

You can play around with numbers of 90º bends but there will come a point that, unless you are using a concrete bunker as an enclosure, there will be more sound escaping from other parts of the enclosure than there will be from the exit from the baffle box

The baffle box below has 8 x 90º bends which should be more than enough. My baffle box has 6 x 90º simply because that is all I have the room for inside the enclosure.

If you have limited room you can trade off either the thickness of SAM or even just put the SAM on one side of the baffle.

My setup uses 2" thick dense foam rubber mattress material that I picked up from hard rubbish collection.

The other important feature of a baffle box is theilocation of the exit. Locating the baffle box exit down near the ground will make it a but quieter than high up like I have shown as any escaping sound has a greater chance of being absorbed by objects near the ground instead of immediately projecting out around the neighborhood.

Attached Images

Bafflebox.jpg (40.1 KB)

QLD WANTED: Hollows and Rounds

Full Boar Dust Extractor

CNC Demonstration Bookings Essential

Attached Files

Woodman 6090 CNC demonstration.pdf (621.0 KB)

Renovators forum

Venting on external enclosure

New Bride

Mum ain't Mom anymore

Solid Carbide Upcut Router Bits

Hi All,

I have available a quantity of solid carbide spiral upcut router bits. Great price, terrific quality from a dedicated manufacturer of solid carbide tooling. See the listing for the set here - http://ift.tt/1CGZKKz

Also available individually, see my other listings. Always happy to speak with forum members about any queries they may have.

Cheers,

David

Attached Images

Upcut Set.jpg (105.2 KB)

Ryobi shoplight - good lathe light!

Hi folks,

Having got a bunch of advice from the forum, found something I can contribute back! I have a bunch of Ryobi One+ gear lying around the shop already, and I picked up a shoplight last week:

http://ift.tt/1CGZKKx

It will run either off an 18V battery or mains power via an extension lead.

I have neither experience with alternatives or much turning time under it, but with it set up above the lathe parallel to the bed (it has plenty of options for points to hang it from), to my eyes it lit very nicely, with good colour, plenty of brightness, and no shadows in the way... I'm pretty happy, although I'd be happier if it was a little cheaper!

I grabbed one of the hybrid fans earlier - it seems like a nice bit of gear too, easy to hang and point, quiet and moves a fair amount of air for a small fan.

Cheers,

Danny

Need 1.5mm Stainless Steel Strips in Melbourne

Hi - I am in need for three pieces of stainless steel strips. I have contacted a bunch of steel suppliers in Melbourne however they just want to sell me a whole sheets.

I just need the following:

1.5 mm thick x 50 mm wide x 1.5 meters long

1.5 mm thick x 50 mm wide x 1.5 meters long

1.5 mm thick x 75 mm wide x 785 mm long

It must be stainless as it will come in contact with steam bent green wood.

Does anyone know who would sell me small cut offs stainless?

Toolex Magnetic Drill

I know - it doesn't sound like your classic woodworking machine.

But...

We are bolting a timber deck onto a timber boat which has steel deck beams. We will need to drill hundreds - maybe thousands of half inch holes in 3/8 angle.

So a magnetic drill is the go. But I confess to never having used one.

This has just popped up.

http://ift.tt/1Cs5K8v

Is this brand any good?

Any other suggestions?

We don't mind spending more if needed, but of course don't want to spend more if not needed.

Thanks,

Mark

Finishing neck

I am about to lacquer a new Electric guitar neck. I will be using a single pack nitro lacquer. My question is do you spray over the frets and clean the up after or do you mask them off before spraying.

Poll on DC location

One of things several members, including yours truly, have been advocating is locating DCs outside the shed and I am interested to see what the state of play is with this and I want to see how it changes over time.

If you have any other comments on this please add these to a post in this thread.

Please note the survey is relative to April 1 2015 and mo, this is not an April fools joke.