Multi centre / eccentric chuck

My "gerry rigged" chucking solution for offset faceplate turning is far from satisfactory, so it looks like a New Year's gift - probably have to be to me from me unless there is a generous benefactor in the wings that I don't know about.



There are 3 possibilities that I am aware of:

Vicmarc Escoulen Eccentric Chuck #3 with 40mm eccentric ball and ball adapter - $561

Robert Sorby RS60 Eccentric Chuck - $520

Vermec Multi Centre Chuck - $235



The Vermec is limited as it does not have eccentric capability - only multi centre.

I beleive that the Vicmarc has far more accurate repeatability in settings, but have not read anything that indicates what the limitations are with the Sorby chuck.



I think I can discount the Vermec chuck as I am particularly interested in the eccentric capability for boxes, finials, long stem goblets and the like.



Is anyone familiar with these chucks and can give me the pros and cons as they see them.



Many thanks



Bob.

NSW FS: McJing Low Angle Jack Plane

I have an unused low angle bevel up jack plane for sale, same as the one offered at McJing ($205). Comes with 3 blades (3 different angles). All unused.



This is an auction, reserve is set to $100, buy it now for $150. Shipping is $13 AU wide or $10 for Sydney metro.

NSW FS: HNT GORDON A55 Trying, Aussie jack and smoothing plane

I no longer need these pretty planes so they need to find a new home. Postage is $16 for the trying or $13 for Aussie Jack / Smoothing shipped anywhere (no extra shipping if you buy more than one). Sydney Metro is $10 flat.



The A55 and Aussie Jack plane shows some sign of use, the smoother is in almost like new condition with minimal wear. All 3 planes are Gidgee and come with the standard TS high carbon blade.



This is a fixed price sale.







1. A55 Trying: $280











2. Aussie Jack: $160











3. Smoothing: $150

Getting past the shakes

Hi all,



I have lately turned a few reasonable size 'bowls' which are not balanced (see attached camphor laurel platter - wood courtesy of smife (thanks again) which still needs its finish).



camphor platter bottom view.jpgcamphor platter top view.jpg



This is approx 500mm x 200mm and was too big for me to use the tailstock for support.



Anyway, when turning both sides (faceplate to turn the bottom and chuck in expansion mode for the top) the lathe started shaking at around 300 to 400 rpm. I thought this was crap as I was never going to get anything like a clean cut so I sped up the lathe and could get around 800 with less shake than at a much slower speed and for the final part of the inside of the bowl I was up over the 1000rpm.



Does anyone have further knowledge / understanding of 'why is this so'? Everything I have ever read or seen says as soon as the lathe starts shaking to back the speed off but in this case I pushed through the shakes barrier. I am guessing if I had a big and heavy out of balance piece this would not be such a good idea :)



Any thoughts (especially on when this is safe) would be much appreciated and hopefully an education to many of us



cheers



Mick

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Table Saw Wheels

I'm wondering if anyone has experience good or bad with the wheeled base kits that Carbatec and Hare and Forbe sell.



Are they any good, which is better, other versions available.





How much do they raise the height of the saw? I/m thinking as I set up/build my workshop I would like to get as far as possible everything at a uniform height. For example that way the workbench can act as an outtable for the table saw. Either can act as a rest for long pieces in the CMS etc, etc.





For reference the table saw will be a Carbatec SB10

Shawl Clasps

Does anyone make these...? Is there a Tutorial etc etc...



Regards....George

Woodworking, DIY, craft books for sale

A variety of useful books that should be of benefit for years to come. Total adds up to near $200 but asking for $50 or nearest offer. Strongly prefer to sell as one lot than individually but will sell individually if the lot don't sell.

Home Storage Projects Tauntons $15

Do It yourself home plumbing by Ernest Hall $5

Barry 5 The construction of Buildings 3^rd Edition $5

The Art of Woodcarving by Jack J Colletti $8

Techniques and Designs in Pin and Thread Craft by Warren Farnworth $5

Jewellery Making by Gordon Stokes $5

Starting out in Stained Glass, The Mt Tom Stained Glass Artisans $10

The Woodworkers Solution Book by Alan & Gill Bridgewater $15

Decorator’s Problem Solver by Sacha Cohen $12

Renovate, Architectural concepts for rejuvenating houses and buildings by John Barker $15

The DIY Tool guide Edited by Rick Ball $8

The Biscuit Joiner Project Book $12

Classic Carving Patterns by Irish $15

Bandsaw Handbook $15

Sharpening Basics $8

Every last drop by Madden & Carmichael $4

How Buildings Work by Edward Allen $5

Nomadic Furniture by Hennessey and Papanek $10

How to Design and Build your own home by Lupe DiDonno and Phillis Sperling $10



Buyers interested in more than one book will be offered reduced prices.

VIC Bosch drill sharpener

Had this for years, used it once but have always sharpened my drill bits on the grinder so this is surplus to my needs.

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New Year Greeting

Happy New Year to everyone.

Kryn

Trolling for couta off a real couta boat

I have a French WWOOFer working for me , and I've been introducing him to sailing.

My own HS is in the shed , but I've been getting him out sailing with friends.

One such friend is Garry Kerr , who owns the 1927 Arial .

We were going to sail out to the Lawrence rock area , and troll for Pike .

When we got there , we found the trolling grounds had lots of lobster pots down (an irony , since Garry is a professional lobster man) , so we sailed on , catching lots of 'couta , under sail.

I've done this a lot with HS , and its probably easier with the smaller , more nimble boat , but I appreciate the extra room in the 'couta boat.

Anyway , when we had the esky full , we pulled in the lure , and concentrated on the sailing.

A few photosAriel 11.jpgAriel 8.jpg

Regards Rob J.Ariel 9.jpg

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Thank You HAPPY NEW YEAR - 2015

HAPPY NEW YEAR



Thank you to all members, lurkers and visitors who help keep the forums going and make them great.



An even bigger thank you to the Moderators and Admins who keep the forums safe for the members, visitors and lurkers. Making it a pleasant place to visit by keeping us free from spam, racism, fights and all the other garbage that floats anonymously around the internet.



I hope the year is happy, healthy, safe and prosperous for everyone and hope the below attachment brings a little sunshine to the beginning of your year.



Bring Me Sunshine

Turn your sound up loud and enjoy.

It takes a little while to set the scene, starts off slow but persist with it through to the end as it will (or at least should) put a happy feeling in your heart and smile on your face.

Think of it as farewelling the old and and somewhat ordinary year and heralding in a bright new one.



Cheers - Neil :U

Full Boar Bandsaws

Hi everyone. Does anyone know anything about Full Boar Bandsaws. I'm guessing they are from one of our Asian neighbours. But I know nothing of their reputation. Alternatively, I'm in the market for an inexpensive, good condition full size bandsaw. I live in S.A. As far as shipping goes



Can anyone help?

2015

To all my fellow Neanderthals. The very best wishes to you and each of your families as we enter this new calender year.



regards; Stewie Simpson. :2tsup:

How I make my Tractor wheels

Cutter used for 75 mm wheels, I can go to 90 mm diameter. This tool is not commercially available, as it is my own design. Cutter blades are interchangeable for different sizes and patterns.

DSCF0024.JPG

Mounted in the chuck after cutting to 80 mm diameter, on the band saw, to allow a bit of extra cleanup.

DSCF0023.JPG

This is my modified Pen Wizard, fitted with a Makita laminate trimmer

DSCF0019.JPG

Showing partially cut treads

DSCF0019a.jpg

Showing the gear arrangement, on the top shaft, can be seen 2 lots of gears, the gear to the left, are a 12t and 60t joined together and drilled to rotate on the shaft.

DSCF0018.JPG



Kryn

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Where did that year go?

To all my friends on this forum, plus some others, I'll like to wish you all a very Happy New Year
Ken

Coding for a CNC Machine

Having zero knowledge of CNC I need to ask some questions. Please keep in mind this will be a commercial venture strting with about two thousand units and they will be in Aluminium



What I need to know is who does the coding for the machine? I will have a working prototype with no drawings so do I have to get someone to code it or does the machine shop do the coding?



If I changed machine shops is the coding mine?



Do all machines work to a standard coding?



Can I take the coding from one machine and use it on another machine?



Thanks

Tail Vice

Not sure what is going on here ... ?https://woodworkingweb.com/creations...-bench-finally

Last turnings for 2014

After having car problems I went to the the shed to turn!

Made the bottom section for the half lattice ball, and a Chrissy decoration for next year.

Christmas decoration is banksia nut middle and melunack? Finials

ball lattice is camphor and bowl is the same.finial is ebonised Blackwood

all have had 2 coats of shellac.

really like the ebonised Blackwood.

Happy New year, and may the skew be with you!

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food serving platter safety

I'm interested in making some food serving platters (cheese & nibblies etc) from common flooring boards. I think it should be safe to serve food on if i properly use a laquer finish once fully cured. I'm thinking of common Australian flooring timbers such as blackbutt, spotted gum and ironbark. Would any of these timbers prove to be a problem in terms of food safety?

Dawn number 8 Vice

I have a Dawn No. 8 vice in reasonable condition and I wonder if anyone can tell me how old it is.

It is not a quick release model - I believe they were models 7 and 9.

Any one know about hydraulics?

Posted this in the Welding forum and it was suggested here might be more appropriate...



So we've got a "tipping carryall" to go behind a tractor - very handy for moving material around, but it uses a lever to release a catch at the back to tip the bucket, which is hard to use if the tractor has a cabin.


IMG_0696.jpgIMG_0702.jpg


So the idea is to fit a hydraulic cylinder to each side like so:


CarryallMod.jpg




That way it can be tipped from within the cabin using the remotes. Also, it should allow the bucket to be crowded back a bit more.



I think it will work OK, although I'm not sure if you need more than a t-piece splitting the line to each cylinder? I've noticed loaders often have a control block with extra relief valves, which I assume is to help balance the pressure between two cylinders. If one side is more heavily loaded than the other, I'm guessing the bucket will get twisted?



Any suggestions welcomed.

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Pivot spring replacement

Hi all.

I spent this morning cleaning up an old Ryobi CMS812 210mm compound mitre saw in order to give it a tune up. Was coming apart nicely and lots of sawdust and gunk was removed.

However, I am having trouble replacing the pivot spring (the spring that enables the blade to raise itself back up after a cut). I'm sure others have come across this before so am looking for some guidance, tips or hints so I can finis this job.



Thanks in advance

Blinger

Time to think of New Year Resolutions

But don't be conned IMG_4451.jpg



Regards and all of the best for you and your pets for 2015

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Disston D-8 replica

Like Ron I've been toying with the idea of making hand saws. I really like Disston's D-8 saws, particularly in the 20-24 inch range toothed at 10-12 ppi. I've never done double tapers before but I just got some 0.035" 1095 delivered and thought I'd give it a go.



Here are the results.



Plate before.



D-8 saw plate.jpg



I modeled this on a 22" D8 12 ppi original that I really like.



Here are the results of the taper grinding.



taper grind 1.jpg



It approximates the dimensions of the original, which as a 0.032" plate. Nonetheless I think I remove a couple of thousandths more down the center-line of the plate.



Cheers,

Rob

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I need a person with a sharp brain

I have a new tool for my CNC.

It is a springloaded engraver.

Image 6.jpg

I need to work out how much to turn the screw (1) to equal a force of 500 gram upwards of the plate (10)

I do not need to know how much weight to pull the plate down, I need the upwards pressure (resistance) on the spring.



In other words, that is the pressure I need for the bit to follow any unevenness in the material.

The plate will be resting on he top of the bottom (u-shaped) part of the tool.

The router is resting in the hole (10)

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Dolls House furniture

Hello again everyone. I see plenty of Dolls house plans on here but what I am really looking for are some free plans to make dolls house furniture to make for my grand daughter and also for the guys at my local mens shed to make in the new year.



Any help would be appreciated



Kind regards

Ian

Any one know about hydraulics?

So we've got a "tipping carryall" to go behind a tractor - very handy for moving material around, but it uses a lever to release a catch at the back to tip the bucket, which is hard to use if the tractor has a cabin.



IMG_0696.jpg IMG_0702.jpg



So the idea is to fit a hydraulic cylinder to each side like so:



CarryallMod.jpg



That way it can be tipped from within the cabin using the remotes. Also, it should allow the bucket to be crowded back a bit more.



I think it will work OK, although I'm not sure if you need more than a t-piece splitting the line to each cylinder? I've noticed loaders often have a control block with extra relief valves, which I assume is to help balance the pressure between two cylinders. If one side is more heavily loaded than the other, I'm guessing the bucket will get twisted?



Any suggestions welcomed.

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Full Boar Pedestal Drill Press - any opinions on these???

I'm in the market for a pedestal drill and Bunnings have these 750w/1HP 16mm chuck pedestal drill presses going for $299.00 at the moment, they're certainly cheap (in comparison to what I've been looking at at H&F, Trade Tools Direct and Carbatec) and "seem" like good value..............but......???



I'm ever mindful that you get what you pay for but I cant see too much wrong with these for the price - does anyone have any experience with these Full Boar drill presses or any of the Full Boar range of tools?



Any opinions? Warnings?



http://www.bunnings.com.au/full-boar...-8500_p6290272

How do I edit a Previous Post?

I have discovered spelling errors in a previous post, how do I correct them?

Gerard

Tailstock Turret

A few months back Chris showed some photos of his dissected turret http://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...79#post1810179 I said I wouldn't mind something similar and Peter sent me an early Christmas present. Thank you Peter.



The turret's arbor is a Jacobs Morse 2 to J6, a bit beefier than Chris's. The indexing mechanism isn't as beefy. It's simply a spring loaded detent pin with a tapered nose locating in a corresponding tapered seat. Corrosion and wear have taken their toll and the pin wobbles*. I made a replacement pin based on the dimensions of the original. The pin is a reasonable fit in the cast iron body but when located in the turret's indexing hole it needs to be pushed in hard to prevent turret movement. I measured the taper angle to be 9.5 degrees and made a series of tapered test cuts on some bar at and close to that angle to check the fit in the tapered hole. I'm thinking a longer nose on the pin might be an improvement.



I thought the turret's appearance would be improved with a bit of wire brushing and maybe a bit a wet and dry. Didn't do much to improve things so I took a light cut off. This is the hardest cast iron I have ever encountered with some areas harder than others.



Five of the the turret's tool mounting holes were bored slightly undersize, about 15.5mm. The remaining hole was exactly 5/8". Given the problems I have had with tailstock alignment I thought I would mount the turret in the headstock spindle and bore out the holes with a boring bar. At the lowest speed the finish was rough so I thought I'd have a go with the turret tailstock mounted. My plan was to use my imperial boring head until I discovered I'd swapped arbors on the thing and it was sporting a 30 taper. My Kaiser boring head came with a screw on 3M arbor but I didn't have a suitable draw bar for its installation in the Hercus so I went on to make two decisions that were my downfall.



I bored the holes with a 5/8 " slot drill only to find they were slightly undersize so I then used a 5/8" reduced shank drill bit mounted in a collet to open the holes up. May as well have been a licorice twist. With a length of precision ground 4140 as a test bar, there is up to 15 thou (0.381mm) droop in the bar when measured over 4"/100mm in the five drilled holes. There is about 0.0005/ 0.01mm droop when the bar is mounted in the existing 5/8" hole. That hole appears reamed.



My other turret attachment's turret is bored 3/4" and I have a number of sleeves to accommodate the 1/2" and 5/8 " arbored tools I have. There is sufficient cast iron on PDW's turret to bore the holes out to 3/4" . How to bore the holes accurately is my next challenge. Any suggestions?



The tailstock turret has an advantage over the Hercus turret. Tools swing out of the way, they don't on the Hercus.



BT



* wobbles is an exaggeration. The movement is FA but at the end of a tool projecting 4 inches from the turret , it becomes a bit more than that.

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