I need to make two bench cupboards 2m long, 840 high and 640 deep.
The top will have a 20mm overhang all round. Plinth will probably be 40mm square pine
and back ply.
I am looking at a face frame, two end frames and a middle frame from which to hang doors.
Now, I have some good quality T&G hardwood flooring ( scrounged of course!:D ) that is 19mm thick and
90mm wide. With T&G removed it ends up about 80 wide.
Should I make the face frame from the T&G? I have no idea how it would stand up to Pocket hole joints
or biscuit joints.
A second method I though of would be to make the face frame from pine and then anchor the T&G to it
like a skin. I know this will add weight but may well be a safer method as I fear the T&G will split on the end grain
if I try pocket hole joints. Biscuit joints may not be the strongest option.
I think I can make the doors from the T&G also. I can run it through a thicknesser at the club to lessen the
weight but it may need some backing to prevent warping and twisting.
What are the thoughts of the brains trust.???
The top will have a 20mm overhang all round. Plinth will probably be 40mm square pine
and back ply.
I am looking at a face frame, two end frames and a middle frame from which to hang doors.
Now, I have some good quality T&G hardwood flooring ( scrounged of course!:D ) that is 19mm thick and
90mm wide. With T&G removed it ends up about 80 wide.
Should I make the face frame from the T&G? I have no idea how it would stand up to Pocket hole joints
or biscuit joints.
A second method I though of would be to make the face frame from pine and then anchor the T&G to it
like a skin. I know this will add weight but may well be a safer method as I fear the T&G will split on the end grain
if I try pocket hole joints. Biscuit joints may not be the strongest option.
I think I can make the doors from the T&G also. I can run it through a thicknesser at the club to lessen the
weight but it may need some backing to prevent warping and twisting.
What are the thoughts of the brains trust.???
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