The red oak butcher block bench top is currently assembled and secured the leg and base assembly.
I used 4x4 timbers for legs. I used stud grade 2x4's and 2x6 for the long horizontal stretchers and half lapped or recessed them into the 4x4 timbers.
Before drilling the workbench holes I would like your input.
It looks like the most common size is 3/4" holes. I'm not sure about the best spacing for my workbench top.
Router with $45 spiral up cut bit and plywood jig for router base?
or
A simple inexpensive traditional sweep brace or forstner bit?
The Workbench is 24" x 60" x 1 3/8" thick. Cast iron tail vise 10" width x 4" height. Vise travel 9"-10" without wood jaws.
I'm considering the use of simple 12" - 18" bar or f clamps instead of traditional holdfasts. Simply grind or drive the rivet from the end of the 3/4" rail.
I used 4x4 timbers for legs. I used stud grade 2x4's and 2x6 for the long horizontal stretchers and half lapped or recessed them into the 4x4 timbers.
Before drilling the workbench holes I would like your input.
It looks like the most common size is 3/4" holes. I'm not sure about the best spacing for my workbench top.
Router with $45 spiral up cut bit and plywood jig for router base?
or
A simple inexpensive traditional sweep brace or forstner bit?
The Workbench is 24" x 60" x 1 3/8" thick. Cast iron tail vise 10" width x 4" height. Vise travel 9"-10" without wood jaws.
I'm considering the use of simple 12" - 18" bar or f clamps instead of traditional holdfasts. Simply grind or drive the rivet from the end of the 3/4" rail.
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