juin 2014

Rifle Stocks

lundi 30 juin 2014

G'Day,

I am a gun dealer in Yanchep just north of Perth.

I want to get a bunch of rifle stocks copied and cut on coloured laminated plywood from the USA. The stock shape and inletting* will need to be reverse engineered.

I want at least 30 stocks to begin with and I can supply the models for reverse engineering - these models are in fact existing rifle stocks that have been modified.

Is there anyone in Australia that can do this at a reasonable price as I don't really want to go to China for this.

Regards,

Ian

www.gunroom.com.au

Recovering timber from bush fire affected trees

Hi, Our property was badly hit by the bush fires in South Australia in January this year. Over the years we have planted a lot of medium sized Callitris and Allocasuarina trees which were scorched and killed by the radiation. Some of the trunks are 10" to 13" in diameter and very straight. Does anyone have experience in felling and using such timber? I think my best option is to fell them, cut into usable (say 3m) lengths, seal the cut ends and see if they dry out. Should I attempt to mill into planks whilst freshly felled? I intend on buying a moisture meter to monitor their progress.

Grinding into corners?

Sometimes I want to grind into corners, like into an inside fillet. Getting rid of mill scale or rust or paint for weld or paint prep.

Wire wheels are OK but not the best. A brand new flap disc works for a brief time before the ends of the disc get worn too much. What do you guys use, what works best? Power tools at my disposal: couple of grinders, dremel, drills, don't have a die grinder yet.

Redgum and Red Mallee Burl Sedonas

Just sharing a two pens I recently made for birthday presents for family.

The first is a piece of redgum taken from a fence post. It had a crack all the way through it which I stabilized with CA. I quite like the look of the visible crack in the finished product, but that's purely a taste thing.

Both pens are finished with CA & EEE.

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Pen Boxes

I have a limited number of boxes that are surplus, the price is for a lot of 10 boxes, postage will be EXTRA. thanks Amos:)Flip Box 1 (Large).jpg Flip Box 2 (Large).jpg Flip Box 3 (Large).jpg

PS Pen is for display only -not part of sale.

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T2 timber and split fingers

I am noticing that after a day or two handling T2 framing that the skin on my finger tips crack open yet no other thing has this same effect on me. Wondering if it is a common thing or just me!

Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...

Mini chisels?

I've been asked to make some very small turnings, very similar to pawns on a chess board. Quite a few actually.

From the samples supplied, they are too tight for my regular chisels, regardless of how I turn them.

Does anyone have a recommendation on a decent set of mini-chisels?

Carter C1 Rebate Plane

A friend of mine has asked me to refurbish his grandfather's Carter C1 rebate plane. It's been sitting in the shed, slowly collecting cosmetic rust, and as far as I can tell, the main parts have seized.

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What colour would this plane originally have been?

Is the blade the same as the Stanley #10?

Does anyone have a photo of one in good nick that I can use as a reference?

Thanks,

Craig

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oil

hi

what is the correct oil to use in my hercus a in the headstock spindle.

is it the same oil for the gearbox and the ways and the counter shaft bushes

thanks steve

Pros and cons of chassis beam construction?

I'm thinking of building an off-road caravan/camper next year (myswag type of thing). One thing I'm considering is getting some UB-14 beams bent up and using it for the drawbar, chassis rails and the rear cross member/bumper and (maybe) a front cross member.

As I see it:

Pros:

Easier maintenance

Easier cable running

Easy attachment to flanges

Easier design

Stronger (minimal joins with bent rails and joins to cross members can be "tongued" for redundancy)

One piece (height) chassis and drawbar

Cons:

Weight, compared to even 150 x 50 x 3.0mm RHS (14kg/m vs ~9kg/m)

Cost (need to also factor in $150/bend from one bend place I rang)

Size (150 x 75 is the smallest beam size. Don't really care about this with the one-piece frame/drawbar design)

Torsional rigidity (cross members make this a non-issue)

Weight is a big one, but I'm thinking if I build a heavy chassis but put composite panels and aluminium on top it will somewhat balance the weight out compared to a traditional build and possibly even give nicer towing characteristics.

I'm sure I've read discussion on this before on wwforums but a quick search didn't give me what I was looking for.

Thoughts?

Good service from weldng suppliers- tell us about it

Enough of complaints ,lets hear the good stuff!

Suppliers are capable of good service as well as bad and when they perform well they deserve a proper mention.

Since word of of mouth is powerful business tool ,lets try and help those who deserve a bit of a well done !

Whats your personal experience with a supplier,a vendor, a retailer or whatever.

Some details of they helped you may inspire someone else to spend a dollar in these tough times and keep a few people in work.

Good product, good service, a willingness to do that little bit extra ,lets hear it all.

Ball Turning ( and a probable return to square one.)

Variant22's mention on the weekend of my helix clamps galvanised me into finishing off a couple of replacement parts for two of the clamps I purchased from Greq Q a while back. These clamps had suffered from abuse during their working life, pre GQ, the M10 thread on the bolts had become a reverse buttress.:no: I had made a pair of replacement tee nuts a few months ago and all I needed to do was to turn a pair of radiused spacers that would replace the original radiused bolt heads and enable the use of standard cap screws. Here's a link to some snap shots showing this modification on the first pair of clamps I acquired from Germany - http://ift.tt/1x8AMza The radius on the spacers back them was achieved freehand with a lathe file.

I thought this would be a good opportunity to use the ball turner. It turned out to be an opportunity to discover the shortcomings of my version of the turner. There is very little clearance over the base which means the workpiece must project considerably from the chuck. This severely reduces the usefulness of the tool. A lack of a means to measure the position of the slide had me resorting to the use of a felt tip marker to enable repetition. Adjustable, measurable feed on the slide would also be advantageous.

The greatest problem is the lack of Z clearance. I started looking again at up and over designs. Those incorporating proprietary boring heads are probably better suited to lathes larger than my Hercus 9. I had fiddled around with my 2-ish inch boring head and came to the conclusion there wasn't really enough room - http://ift.tt/1mP4eqF

What has attracted my attention is Michael G's up and over device. Compact but with a pretty generous amount of travel. Could be the inspiration for ball turner No.2. Here's Michael's -

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BT

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Hedge plants in shade

Hi,

I'm wondering if anyone can suggest a hedge plant that will survive in shade? All winter the area is pretty much shade and during the warmer months its probably 70/30. I really like a full native hedge type looking garden.

Thanks

Geoff

Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...

Moving a caravan in a back yard

Need some advice please.

We have an Adria Altea Caravan which is single axle and around 1000 kg fully loaded. The ball weight is 68 kg.

I have to move the caravan about 8 metres in a straight line across a relative flat grassed yard before I can hook it up to the car. The reason for this is that the yard is an L shape and I need to pull the van up and turn it (the easy part) before I can hook it onto the car.

I bought a rachet jockey wheel but it is useless. Due to the grass and the light ball weight, the jockey wheel just spins or digs in. Even with a board under it, it still spins. I have looked at the motorised movers but they cost a lot of money and its not viable for the amount of time we use the van. At the moment 2 of us push the van into position and push it back out again but its a strain on the back as you get older.

I was thinking about cementing a pole into the ground behind the van and another 8 metres in front of it so I could connect a pulley system between the post and van to move it back and forwards. A rachet hand winch would also work but they make it a slow process. Also, with a pulley I can also use rope rather than wire (less damage if it snaps as I have one snap on a boat winch).

What sort of pulley system would I need to move the van with the least amount of effort? If there are better ideas I would like to hear them.

Thanks

Non standard gable end framing

Got an issue with some framing for a gable end and would appreciate any comments.

I have approval to put a bifold door in the gable end of our new first floor like below.

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The problem is that the engineered has specified I need a 240x45 LVL lintel above the door. Even if I reduce this down to a 2/200x45 LVL the lintel would extend past the ceiling line and into the space between the rafters.

This wouldn't be a visual issue because it will be all plastered up but from a standards perspective would I be breaching any rules by not having the top plate continuous?

Her is a cad drawing (from the inside) of what it would look like.

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Any ideas?

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Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...

Found these

As some may know from other posts i have just returned after a long weekend at a Steam Rally, anyway I found these two cars on a stall sorry for the photo's as this is the best i could do without lifting them of the gents stall.

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I quite liked the shape of the second one even though it is quite crude

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Kreg customer service is amazing

Back in January I ordered from a US retailer, amongst a bunch of other small things, a Kreg PRS3034 router plate insert for my Triton TRA001. It's one of those phenolic jobs.

I've never really taken much notice, simply as I didn't use it since purchase, but it had a sag in the back of the plate. It was about 3mm in the middle. This made various box making operations impossible.

So, I emailed with a few snaps and enquired whether it could be straightened by heating in the oven or freezing it. Returns would be prohibitive. We all know the love AusPost has for this countries Dear Citizens. This was on Sunday night.

Tonight, Monday night, I received an email that they are going to ship me a new one pronto.

Just like that.

No run around. No BS.

Must be 9am Monday there.

Man, my disappointment did a complete 180 and has turned into stunned amazement. What an absolutely incredible company. What absolutely outstanding customer service.

Kudos. Very serious kudos to Kreg.

Replace verticle bubble in old spirit level

Hi, I am going to try to repair my mums very old spirit level (it was her dads and he passed away a few years ago), for some reason this level means a lot to her, we had a handyman over doing some work and mum walked outside and noticed him hitting the top of the level with a hammer (trying to hammer something down) she stopped him but then noticed the vertical bubble on the end had no fluid in it anymore (must be broken), I can see how to take off the middle metal plate to adjust the centre bubble but how do you get the vertical end bubble/vials out ??, there looks to be a big brown plug in the end inline where it is but I am not game to starting prying it apart, I really want to have a go at fixing it to give for her birthday but don't want to break it, I will post a pic of the level and hope to god someone has some insight, thanks again for taking the time to read.

PS if I am in he wrong section I am sorry, maybe admin can move it to the correct section.

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WA Cassese CS88 Underpinner and CS55M Guillotine - PERTH AUST

Cassese CS88 manual underpinner and Cassese CS55 manual guillotine for sale.

Both in great condition. Price for both Buy it now is $2750.

Guillotine comes with extending arm (up to 120cm).

Ceased framing a couple of years ago and they have been in storage. Contact Trevor on 0410909940.

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Found these

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Kreg customer service is amazing

WA Cassese CS88 Underpinner and CS55M Guillotine - PERTH AUST

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Pen Boxes

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T2 timber and split fingers

Mini chisels?

Carter C1 Rebate Plane

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oil

hi

what is the correct oil to use in my hercus a in the headstock spindle.

is it the same oil for the gearbox and the ways and the counter shaft bushes

thanks steve

How to glue PVC and plastic

Hello, I have a sander with a plastic dust port that I would like to glue a PVC tube which takes a standard vacuum hose.

I don't want to melt the plastic.

It is a PVC pipe to go into a tapered plastic female fitting, so it needs some filling too

Can anyone please advise the best way to do this?

Pocket Hole vs Dowel Joint

Hi

Was looking at buying a pocket hole jig to make some bar stools, found a few plans on the net using pocket holes to join the timbers.

Anyway, rang a woodworking shop and was told that a pocket hole joint is not a structural joint and that I should use 10mm dowels.

Asking a loaded question, is this true?

Cheers

Cross Slide Scraping Hercus 260

Had a visit from Mal of Australian Metalworking Hobbyist this morning.

We dismantled the Extended Cross Slide on my Hercus 260 Lathe to examine & get some dimensions.

Anyway while it was apart, checked it for flatness, it had 3 thou (.003") lengthwise convex on its base slide.

Spent the last 3 hours scraping it flat using the granite surface plate & blue.

Then scraped the cross slide saddle to match. This section was surprisingly flat & accurate, requiring little attention

The Extended Cross Slide had obviously moved over time, through stress relief.

All is now good !!!

Learnt a lot in the Scraping Course in Melb. (Thanks Phil) a couple of years back.

regards

Bruce

Buying a Used Router

dimanche 29 juin 2014

Tomorrow I'm going to look at a slightly used router with electronic speed control.

What sort of things should I look at when examining the router to locate any possible problems and what questions should I ask the owner?

Thanks!

How to spray paint into tight spaces

I'm in the process of finishing some room-dividing screens that I've just made. They have been made with 42x19 clear pine - and the design has a lot of repeating patterns of two or three crosspieces 19mm apart, as you can see in the attached photo. I'm wanting to apply a spirit stain first, then either lacquer or varnish. My problem is getting an even coverage of stain in the recesses between the crosspieces. There are 5 screens so its not a small job.

I tried using a brush but it was time-consuming and the results were awful. The problem is basically that with the gaps being only 19mm wide you are basically painting on the sides of the brush - never a good thing to do.

I tried a tiny roller which was better but it doesn't get into the corners.

I am now trying various methods of applying by spray (fortunately I have a few spare pieces to work on) and the results are slowly getting better. Where I'm at now is using a touch-up gun, pressure and product turned right down, tight pattern, and gently spraying the recesses. Then I swap to a larger gun to spray all the rest.

The main problem is that I always deposit a LOT more stain on the outside faces of the recess then I do in the recess.

As I said, results are not bad, but I'm wondering if anyone has any tips or ideas that might make it easier. Am I missing some well-known trade secret ?

cheers

Arron

ps. and in case you are wondering, I didn't pre-finish them because we thought we would be happy with the look of pine, but now we have repainted the rest of our house we realise they need to be a dark brown.

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Removalists in Melbourne - who to trust?

Hey everyone. I'm not sure if this is an appropriate place to ask my question, yet I am not sure where else to put it. Anyhow, my husband live in a remote suburb in Melbourne. Our house have gone through some rough times and we plan on renovating it. Other than fixing up plumbing and other installations, we will most probably extend the kitchen into the living room next to it to create a wider living space. Yet, we need to get rid of some old furniture and by the size of it, I guess we would need the help of a removal team. Could you recommend us a furniture removalist you used the services of and trust? We would appreciate some help.

Kindest regards,

Joanna and Mark

Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...

Storing the stash outside...protecting it?

Hi all,

The shed is getting clagged with an incredible collection that seems to keep magically accumulating.

I want to double my space by putting it outside.

If I were to stack and sticker it, should I cover it with ......black plastic? Shade cloth? A blue tarp? That black garden cloth used for weeds? A 3x2 metre plastic greenhouse? or 2... :)

Obviously I want to keep the rain and frost off, but let it breathe.

Any wisdom welcome.

Upgrades and testing

Hi guys

Tonight from 7pm I will be doing some testing in preparation for a software upgrade. You might get a 404 error when loading a page. If this happens, please click back and try again or refresh a few seconds later. There is no need to report these errors tonight like you normally would (which we appreciate btw!)

thanks

Steve

I call it ---- "Impossible ?"

This is my latest decorative end grain cutting board.

Look closely at how the three members of each triangle are arranged (pick a starting point and follow how the direction changes - both horizontally and vertically).

Can this REALLY be constructed? Many say no, but I did! (or did I?)

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