I did two things, first one was on the net and seemed like a good idea. It gets rid of the spring in the adjustment mechanism and replaces it with two nuts to lock against each other. There is also another nut which locks the threaded part in place. (The nuts are m8x1.) Here's a pic;
The second thing was to make some sleeves for the holes which act as the pivot for the drum/motor/arch assembly. Takes all the slop out of the rotation and most of the unwanted movement when tightening the nuts. Here's a pic, you can just make out the sleeve (I used Delrin for the job).
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Makes fine adjustment very positive and easy without using a complicated set up. I got to 0.05mm difference across the drum just doing it aurally, listening to the noise as it was cutting, and then testing with verniers.
The second thing was to make some sleeves for the holes which act as the pivot for the drum/motor/arch assembly. Takes all the slop out of the rotation and most of the unwanted movement when tightening the nuts. Here's a pic, you can just make out the sleeve (I used Delrin for the job).
Makes fine adjustment very positive and easy without using a complicated set up. I got to 0.05mm difference across the drum just doing it aurally, listening to the noise as it was cutting, and then testing with verniers.
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