Well, it took a while to get started, but after seeing Ed Stiles finger joint jig on youtube I just had to have a go, not to say that $5 piece of 19mm ply I rescued at the recycle centre (love that place)
I made a few minor modifications, namely the side pieces to give the jig more stability. I figured the minor loss of carriage movement was worth that after my cross cut sled warped slightly, enough to throw out box mitres a fraction.
The one problem I faced was that the new saw blade I bought and had modified to flat top profile was just a whisker over the 1/8th inch, about 1/128 in fact. That meant that the last cut had to be 1 and ¾ turn, so for a ¼ cut I do the first cut then advance 1 and ¾. That makes for a snug join, eminently ‘glueable.’ I reckon I’ll do what Matthias Wandel did recently and start off with a bunch of little boxes for screws and such, then progress to decorative stuff after I have developed some skill.
box joint jig.JPGbox joint jig positive stop mech.JPGBox joint jig winding mech.JPG
I made a few minor modifications, namely the side pieces to give the jig more stability. I figured the minor loss of carriage movement was worth that after my cross cut sled warped slightly, enough to throw out box mitres a fraction.
The one problem I faced was that the new saw blade I bought and had modified to flat top profile was just a whisker over the 1/8th inch, about 1/128 in fact. That meant that the last cut had to be 1 and ¾ turn, so for a ¼ cut I do the first cut then advance 1 and ¾. That makes for a snug join, eminently ‘glueable.’ I reckon I’ll do what Matthias Wandel did recently and start off with a bunch of little boxes for screws and such, then progress to decorative stuff after I have developed some skill.
box joint jig.JPGbox joint jig positive stop mech.JPGBox joint jig winding mech.JPG
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