Filler(interior) for timber window

vendredi 31 octobre 2014

My 70+ yo house has two west facing timber windows. Each comprises two smallish sash windows separated by a large fixed pane. There has been some minor rot along the bottom rail of the large pane where it meets the glass (no doubt from condensation). A previous "fix" seems to have been the use of wood filler. This has now well broken down down and some further very minor rot has occurred. I have cleaned out the old filler and the rot and applied wood hardener. The "groove" is about 5mm wide x 5mm deep. There is still plenty of the rail left to provide a level.

I am seeking advice on what filler use. The windows have been stained but will now be painted.



Many thanks




Where to get brass handles for boxes

I am making a long narrow box 500 L x 200 W, with a lid, for my sister who wants it for her knitting needles - she is big time into the knitting scene, recently did a tour with a bus load of other kindred souls to all the wool stores and mills in NSW and Vic, buying up big time. Apparently it was knitting heaven, that trip. Some of her "needles" are 400mm long, she tells me. More like sticks if you ask me :)



I would like to get some nice polished brass handles that I could put on the narrow ends so she can carry it, preferably recessed into the ends of the box.



I have looked at the ones supplies by Rockler, but they didn't get a good review, falling apart easily.



Can anyone please suggest where I might get some, or suggest a suitable alternative handle?




Where The Curled Sticks Grow

DO you see the curled stick in the picture?





This is the kind of place where the curled stick grow, lot's of vines and briars.





Cold weather is here in Kentucky. Time to get out the Gerber saw and look for curled sticks.









Router issues

My Triton router which has been mounted in a table for some time know has starting issues. When I flick the switch to turn it on, it sometimes moves a tiny bit then stops, or won't move at all, like its getting stuck. I got a new pair of carbon brushes and replaced them, but doesn't seemed to have changed. I usually just unplug it, give the bit/collet a spin (not with my hand), then plug back in and try again. Sometimes works, sometimes takes a few goes. Happens at anytime, ie. first use for the day, tenth use for the day.

Any ideas on what some other issues might be?

Thanks

Shane




Anti Spam Filter

Dear Sirs

I really find this anti spam filter difficult to grasp as I'm not a regular user I don't wish to trawl thru thousands of posts. I as a user like to use the search option to pinpoint exactly what I'm looking for but this site doesn't allow me to do that with any comfort because of the worse anti spam filter I have ever had the mispleasure of experiencing. The photos are so poor in quality that the images just blend into mush!! And some of the photos are so small you'd need a magnifying glass to see them!

While I understand the need for these things surely a little investment in time to fix this joke is well past due?

Thanks for your time and now if I can only get past your antispam filter you'll receive this note :)

Kind Regards

Paul





14th try It really is guess work!

And so it ticks over never had any complaints about this I wonder why because no one can get past your bloody crap anti spam filter! and they give up in disgust!



Yep well not me after 15 attempts to send a private message to you about the anti spam filter I have to resort to sending it to you in this forum and making it a public rant!




Alpine pine burl - is it useful?

I was given this burl. I was told it came from a fallen 'alpine pine'. It's about 150 X 200 mm including the bit of branch. Does anybody know if this burl worth carving? If so, any suggestions or cautions about this type of wood?

alpine pine burl.jpg


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QLD Figured Camphor Laurel (Dressed 290 x 24, 240 x 24)

Up for sale I have 3 figured camphor laurel boards. This timber is well seasoned and has been stored flat. The boards are dressed on 2 sides and the sizes are as follows:



2 @ 1940 x 290 x 24 (one of these runs out to 260mm wide starting 550mm from the end - please see photo



1 @ 2400 x 240 x 24



$70 is the buy-it-now price for the lot



Collection is from Aspley, Brisbane



Cash on pick-up is preferred (but paypal is also okay). Thanks


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QLD Holytek 5HP Twin Bag Extractor

Holytek (Gabbett) twin bag extractor. This is the big unitwith a 5 HP 3 phase motor. It has the fine micron top bags and is used withplastic lower bags (not shown but I have some if you need them). The unit is inlike new condition with very little use and is only around 4 years old. The inlet is a 10” duct with a 10” x 8”reducer to take 8” ducting. This is a serious extractor that retails around the$2000 mark. It has a fully balanced steel 14” impeller unlike the cheaper Taiwanese stuffand is of a size that allows for full ducting within your shop. It's ready to use as is or at this priceyou could even throw away most of it and keep the impeller and motor as the heart ofa home built cyclone system. $350 pick up from Ascot Brisbane.




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Engraving on a box lid

Hi all,



This post isn't totally related to the making of a box, but it is in association with a finished box. Today I happened to come by a very old pantograph engraving machine. I actually used one similar to this about 25 years ago, borrowed it from a mate, then at the time I purchased a computer engraver. Had a sideline back then doing trophies and engraving.



Anyway, I digress. I've had thoughts of putting initials, most likely a woman's,.......onto the lid or lid insert on a timber jewellery box. Perhaps this might look totally trashy, I really don't know.



When I get this old pantograph sorted out and up and running, and if I can engrave into the timber, I am envisaging the cut will be about 3mm or so. Any suggestions on how to make this engraving stand out on the timber. On other products they used to use a paint fill, but I doubt that would work on timber.



And then of course I would want to apply danish oil/wax over the top.



Any thoughts,....??



Regards, Paul




QLD Irwin Quick Grip Clamps 1500mm

Two Irwin Quick Grip clamps + one other long F clamp. TheIrwin clamps are the longest they make at around 1500 in length. These aren’tthe cheapy Quick clamps as they are mounted on a very strong sash type steelrail. The clamps retail at more than $60 each. The F clamp is thrown in fornothing. It’s of similar length to the Irwins but has a slight twist in the shaftthat doesn’t affect it’s use. The Irwin clamps are brilliant in a one man shopwhere you find yourself struggling to simultaneously hold the work whilstadjusting a clamp. Quick grip clamps arein great condition with very little use. This is not an auction, $60 the lot.Pick up in Ascot Brisbane.




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Beefwood Bolt's

Hi All,



Finished off a couple of Gunmetal Bolt Actions I had ready for finishing later this afternoon, I love the look of the Beefwood timber especially against the gunmetal :2tsup:



Thanks

Tony.



Gunmetal Bolt Action Pen in Beefwood.jpg Gunmetal Bolt Action Pen in Beefwood 1.jpg Gunmetal Bolt Action Pen in Beefwood 2.jpg





Fire Extinguisher Fun

Had a fire in the backyard a few days ago, a visitor was grinding with the angle grinder and started a small grass fire... I wander off and grab first fire extinguisher ( dry powder ) I find, and pfftt... nothing no pressure... so undaunted I grab another and pttff same thing a bit of a splutter and then nothing. Not to be beaten, I grab fire extinguisher number 3 from the electronics shop, and splutter... nothing.... meantime Josh got a bucket of water and killed the fire..



So now, many $$$ later I have a brand spanking new 9kg ABE dry powder.. the score so far... three dead extinguishers.. go figure.. Lucky it wasn't a **real** fire..



So, here's the question, when was the last time YOU checked your fire extinguishers... :D





Ray




Compressor Maintenance , remote housing and control questions.

I have some questions on compressor care. My instruction manual says to open the tank valve and let the air out after use. Is this normal/common? Do you need to do it at the end of each day or can it be a scheduled weekly duty. I'm not sure if this is to let the moisture out of the tank or just so there is less stress on the seals etc when not in use or whatever.





The second Question is to BobL and the like who have remote located the compressor to outside the shed. I'm wondering do you remotely control the compressor? Power, pressure etc?



Can any one recommend a "regulator?" the thing that you put in the line to capture the water? I was spray painting today and noticed there was some moisture in the lines at times.





I was given some hoses with fittings and a line splitter (T piece quick connector) all very good quality they came with I think it was called a Jamec fitting. The compressor and my spray gun have Nitto fittings. I made up a adaptor Jamec to Nitto, and another Nitto to Jamec. For the four pieces to make the two adaptors it cost me about $40. Other than the el cheapo fitting packs which never have what you want is there a good place to buy fittings at a reasonable price with reasonable quality?




Triton router mounting hole spacing

I'm finally getting work done on the router table I started ages ago.

The top has been made and it's getting time to think about drilling it and the router plate.



I'm creating an MDF template on the CNC router to suit my Woodhaven.com router plate.

I also want to cut out the phenolic route plate on the CNC so I can set up the centre hole for a zero clearance insert. It makes sense to do the drilling for the mounting holes for the TRC-001 router that's going to be attached.



My question is, does anyone have a template diagram for the base on the TRC-001 router? I'm after something with measurements so I can work out some parameters for the CNC router. I know I could measure the hole spacing but if there's an official drawing for this, at least I can blame the mistakes on someone else :)



Most of the forum search hits for mounting the Triton to a router plate say to use the black base plate as the template butI want to do all the drilling on the CNC router to ensure that the centre hole and the mounting holes are concentric.

I know router plates are available with the holes already drilled but I got the blank router plates some time ago before I'd decided on which router I was going to use so I'm stuck with them..




QLD WANTED: Veritas Hand Planes

Recently started building my collection/arsenal/quiver of hand planes. I'm a big fan of the classic meets modern thing that Lee Valley/Veritas is doing.



If anyone has any Veritas hand planes they no longer use, I'm after several of their models including but by no means limited to:



Shoulder planes of any size (including the Bullnose)

Bevel up Jointer with fence

Low Angle Jack

Low Angle Block



Or whatever!



Looking for good condition or with damage which can be fixed.



Would also be interested in some of their second hand back saws if there are any of those floating around.



Hope to hear from some of you.



Cheers,

Luke




Jelutong timber for box making?

Has anyone had experience with jelutong? I would like to use is for box making ( sides or lids) and for inlay stringing - would it be suitable for this purpose?




Upgrading Motors on Machinery

I was looking at one of the local woodworking suppliers website regarding machinery and I was wondering if they did special orders, for example bring in a specific model of machine that is not part of their normal range but still the same manufacturer they supply or maybe supply a normal range model with perhaps an upgraded (larger) motor... :U



however they do not :( basically it's what is on the website and that's it.



I would have thought that if I was prepared to pay upfront and wait for it to arrive they would entertain the idea but apparently not. Perhaps I'm being a little bit simplistic with my expectations?



Moving on...



So I got to wondering how difficult it would be to replace say a 2 HP motor with a 3 HP? as this is one of the reasons I was chasing a particular model.



Thoughts?



Steve




Increased delivery costs (Carbatec)

jeudi 30 octobre 2014

Hi,



As anyone else noticed the huge increase in delivery costs/charges for Carbatec Melbourne? I had my combo jointer/thicknesser delivered to me for $170 about a month ago. Got quoted $250 to deliver a bandsaw (which is lighter and smaller).



Apparently they have a new delivery company which is meant to be much better and they're able to organise specific delivery times, etc. StarTrack (their previous company) used to lose stuff off the back of the truck apparently! :o



Suffice to say, I've had to call them to check on the whereabouts of my shipment so the additional cost so far doesn't seem worth it to me.



Anyway, just wanted to know if anyone else has noticed the huge jump in delivery costs.



Cheers,

Af.




NSW Timber for Woodworkers/turners/carvers/furniture makers

Ok, so here's the 'deal'. I sell timber to woodworkers/carvers/turners. At present I have Norfolk Island Pine, Silky Oak, Paperbark, Camphor laurel, Bloodwood and some particularly nice Spotted Gum. Species and volume vary depending on supply and, to a lesser extent, demand. Prices are negotiable depending on species, cut, size and quantity, so please ignore listed price. As prices are negotiable as mentioned CASH or bank-bank transfer are preferred (receipts for clubs available if needed). I can deliver within the general Newcastle area, otherwise it's pick-up only. Contact me for further details/arrange inspection.



I used to go through my wife's account: butterfly-kisse and sold timber to a few people.

My detais:

0422 532 594

campbell.craig.82@gmail.com




Improving tie-down on an old roof

The Duffman was helping me put up another Roof-Extenda bracket and starting the beam for the fly-over roof on the carport yesterday and I asked him if the old connection Rafter to Top-plate was strong enough for the expected increase in maximum gust speed due that increasing rapidly.

After 60+ years the original skew nails are pretty much rusted away.

I went to Bunnys and got a few of the Pryda brackets but now I'm wondering if 1 is enough on each rafter or should I use one on each side?

Also I just found a piece of braceply just deep enough to cover the old lintel which while huge [ 12 inch by 2 inch ] it's only Oregon and has splits running almost the full length now and replacement really isn't an option

My thought was that the section of braceply would be better than the extra brackets if I used a decent flexible glue as well as connecting nails





Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...




Olive rootball hollowform

G'day

Here's one that I roughed out a couple of years ago and just got round to finishing it off.

It's 238mm high x 212mm diam. and the walls about 8-10 mm thick. The finish is DO.

The void in the side made this an adventurous project but at least I didn't have to keep stopping to blow the shavings out , also I was able to see the ghost of the hollowing tip through hole while turning for most of it .

I think you will agree that this a pretty speccy bit of wood .

Ted


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Math

How many math people do we have out there? I want to make something that is 1000 feet long scaled down to 6 feet long. What scale would that be?




Steel for making your own carbide tools?

I'm toying with the idea of making my own carbide-cutter chisels, as I simply can't afford the EWT chisels. We have two of the smallest size ones, and the wife loves them especially for roughing as she finds it less fatiguing.



I'm not really familiar with metal properties, and I'm having a hard time figuring out what the best - and safest - choice is for this job. Some people I've seen use tubing, while others warn against using mild steel as it is "prone to stress fractures". The local metal merchant (3140) told me the closest place to get tool steel is over in Dandenong which is a long walk as I don't drive. Trying to find 10-12mm x ~500mm o1 square bar online is... vexing at best.



Has anybody made their own? Whats the generally recommended best choice of steel?




Stump for Anvil

Hello All,



Does anyone know where to acquire a stump suitable for an anvil stand?

What are the best woods in Oz suitable for this task?



Thanks




Windows installed of centre in bricks and rendering issue

Hi



I recently paid a hefty price (50% up front at this stage) to have windows installed all way around house as part of a Reno (aluminium double glaze doors and windows replaced previous timber windows). Had a few issues with the installer who was recommended to me by the window supplier. One of those issues relates to how he has set the new windows in the bricks. On several of the windows he has butted up the window edge (not sure of the term, but the line that the render goes to) close to the brick, but has left big gaps (typically 30mm) on the other side. I questioned him on how this would affect the render having to be so thick. His response was it was no issue to apply it in that thickness in his "25yrs experience". However, a mate of mine who is a renderer said that thickness would definitely eventually crack. A builder agreed.



What is the consensus here? I am resigned to challenging him again on this issue but want to be reasonably sure of my facts.



i called the window company who said they will inspect. Their idea on the phone was to offer trims which sit flat to cover the gap that mean the render thickness can stay at 10mm and you wouldn't notice it (the render covers them). Would it be possible to do the trim just on the one side though rather than have the installer re-centre?



Fyi, there are timber infills above some of the windows - not sure if that makes a difference.



Thank you in advance for any help/advice.





Read and reply to the full thread at RenovateForum.com....




Report on 2014 Norwegian Woodturning Cruise.

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Woodturning on Water.


How would you like to have to spend 12 days with Richard Raffan, Theo Haralampou, Terry Martin (Aust), Nick Agar, Stuart Mortimer, Margaret Attard, Mark Baker (UK), Asmund Vignes, Knut Lien, Jim Sterling, Jan Tore Solberg, Magna Grude (Norway), Roly Munro, Peter Hewitt (NZ), Michael Gibson (USA), Michael Hosaluk (Canada)? And these were just the woodturners!!!

There were also other experts in their fields of woodcarving, pyrography, knife making, scrollsawing, router work, tool suppliers from Robert Sorby, Trend Routing Technology (UK), Woodcut Tools (NZ), and King Arthurs Tools (USA) on board.

There were even people on board from a Norwegian company that specialises in “felting” for the lady passengers who were not woodturners to try their hand at. By the end of the cruise there were felt hats, stoles, and scarves to be seen on many shore excursions.

Yes, it was like all of a woodturner’s dreams come true! It was just like a Working with Wood Show on Water!

My wife Robyn and I have recently returned from the Norwegian Woodturning Cruise which takes place every three years up the coast of Norway. A fantastic experience both for a woodturner and for a tourist!

We sailed out of Stavanger, calling in at 6 different places going north, turning south at Honningsvag (North Cape). Crossing the Arctic Circle at Bodo on my 70th birthday made it a day not to be forgotten! North Cape is the northernmost point in Europe, and we were told by an Alaskan on the cruise that it is even further north than anywhere in Alaska.

The leg south was just as interesting as we called 6 different places and finished back at Stavanger. At each place we stopped, after the ship berthed, the side of the ship was opened up, the gangway lowered, and people from the local area came aboard to their “working with wood show”, while the passengers who had booked for the optional shore excursions went off in a local coach to wherever that day’s excursion took them. Jim Sterling is an Australian living in Norway, and he was our Pied Piper, as at every place we stopped, Jim was first ashore with his bagpipes drumming up business from the locals. In every port, locals turned up on foot, on bicycles, in their cars, and some even had trailers to take home their new toys.

At one port we stopped there was even an impromptu jam session held in the workshop area, where Jim with a guitar, Theo with improvised drums, he is a drummer in a band in real life, a local on guitar, and several others entertained us for quite a while.

Suffice to say, we saw many parts of Norway that are off the beaten track, and a lot that were regular tourist haunts. Norway is a beautiful country, where EVERYTHING is on a large scale.

Those passengers who did not go on every excursion spent the time on board reading, watching the demonstrators, mixing with the locals both on board and on local walks into the city, town, or village where we were.

The turners were available to the passengers at almost any mutually agreeable time, and it was just a matter of approaching them personally and arranging to meet them in the workshops for some personal tuition. I was lucky enough to spend one on one time with Michael Hosaluk, Richard Raffan, Asmund Vignes, Jan Tore Solberg, and Nick Agar. Much time was spent trying out tools with the tool suppliers on board or just watching anyone you wished, demonstrate. There were more turning accessories for sale than you could shake a stick at, and some I had not seen before. Due to our itinerary when we left the cruise, I bought very few bits and pieces back with me. The other reason for that, is that tools and accessories are much more expensive in Norway that they are here.

I even met one of the Norwegian passengers who buys his pen kits from Timberbits in Yennora.

During the cruise, there was a gallery on board and passengers were invited to bring along up to three pieces for display, and also invited to donate them towards an auction held on the last night at sea, with the proceeds going to a children’s cancer fund in Norway. I don’t know how many pieces were donated, but at the end of the auction, conducted by Nick Agar, the money raised was 90465 Norwegian Kroner, or US$14655. The best result from any cruise so far.

I hope the photos with this article give you some idea of the woodturning part of our holiday. I have tried to make the captions short but informative, and for those with access to the internet, the photos will be in colour in this issue of By Hand & Eye on our Guild web site.

After the cruise, we spent time in Munich, Stavanger, Copenhagen, Trelleborg, Oslo, Stockholm, Helsinki, Tallin, and Geneva before returning home.

It was a truly marvellous experience!


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