I am wanting to sell this woodturning chuck, but don't know exactly what type of chuck it is or what would be a fair price to put on it. Any information about it wold be gratefully received. It appears to have a 5/8 inch thread. Comes with tools. Thank you.
Finishing walnut veneer
Hi everyone,
I have some walnut veneer on plywood substrate which I purchased. I have noticed that it has "gouges" in some parts. They almost look like tear out that would you get form a bad hand planing job, but may be somewhat natural to this type of veneer.
I am at the point of applying a finish but I am not sure how to approach it. Should I try to fill the grain with something first? If so, what? Would an oil, shellac, or poly based finish work best in this situation?
The piece is a pair of bedside tables. Thanks for any advice you can provide. :)
Cheers,
Af.
I have some walnut veneer on plywood substrate which I purchased. I have noticed that it has "gouges" in some parts. They almost look like tear out that would you get form a bad hand planing job, but may be somewhat natural to this type of veneer.
I am at the point of applying a finish but I am not sure how to approach it. Should I try to fill the grain with something first? If so, what? Would an oil, shellac, or poly based finish work best in this situation?
The piece is a pair of bedside tables. Thanks for any advice you can provide. :)
Cheers,
Af.
Water Getting in Around Windows
Hi All,
We've just had the window sashes replaced in our upper bedroom (they were very old and very rotten) and it's quite obvious from the pictures that water is collecting on the sills after rain. We only had them done a couple weeks back and haven't even got around to putting the finish on the inside yet....
The outside sills are sloped (and need a bit of love) but looks like the main problem is water coming down the sides from the top?
Should there be some flashing above the windows behind the weatherboard on the outside?
Any thoughts / DIY tips or recommendations for a good local tradie?
Cheers
Lewis.
wind1.JPGwind2.JPGwind3.JPGwind4.JPG
Attached Images
Read and reply to the full thread at RenovateForum.com....
We've just had the window sashes replaced in our upper bedroom (they were very old and very rotten) and it's quite obvious from the pictures that water is collecting on the sills after rain. We only had them done a couple weeks back and haven't even got around to putting the finish on the inside yet....
The outside sills are sloped (and need a bit of love) but looks like the main problem is water coming down the sides from the top?
Should there be some flashing above the windows behind the weatherboard on the outside?
Any thoughts / DIY tips or recommendations for a good local tradie?
Cheers
Lewis.
wind1.JPGwind2.JPGwind3.JPGwind4.JPG
Attached Images
Read and reply to the full thread at RenovateForum.com....
SA Mini max lab 22 combo machine
My mate Huw has lost his shed and unfortunately also has to lose tho fine machine:
http://ift.tt/1vniq0E
Located Adelaide cbd.
http://ift.tt/1vniq0E
Located Adelaide cbd.
how to clear up old hand saws
Chaps,
A mates father inlaw past away recently and he has been having a clear up.. He gave me a number of old hand saws, They need a far bit of work to clean them up, surface rust and pitting.
What I the best way to clear up the blades?
Pappy
A mates father inlaw past away recently and he has been having a clear up.. He gave me a number of old hand saws, They need a far bit of work to clean them up, surface rust and pitting.
What I the best way to clear up the blades?
Pappy
ACT Wanted Lathe
hi, i'm looking for a cheap lathe in the Canberra area, Preferably a benchtop lathe as i have limited space but am open to others.
Max price range $700
Max price range $700
A little story
A woman takes a lover during the day, while her husband is at work.
One day, her 9-year-old son hides in the closet during one of her romps. Her husband comes home unexpectedly, so she hides the lover in the closet.
The little boy says, “it’s dark in here.”
The man whispers, “yes, it is.”
“I have a baseball,” the boy responds.
“That’s nice.”
“Want to buy it?”
“No, thanks.”
“My dad’s outside.”
“Okay, how much?”
“$250.”
In the next few weeks, it happens again that the boy and the mom’s lover end up in the closet together.
“It’s dark in here,” the boy begins.
“Yes, it is.”
“I have a baseball glove.”
The man thinks about the last time they were in the closet together, and decided to cut to the chase — “How much?”
“$750.”
“Fine.”
A few days later, the father says to the boy, “grab your ball and glove. Let’s go outside and play some catch!”
“I can’t. I sold them.”
“How much did you sell them for?”
“$1,000,” the boy replies, smilingly widely.
His father responds, “it’s terrible to overcharge your friends like that. That’s way more than those two things cost. I’m going to take you to church to confess.”
The two go to church, and the boy’s father escorts him to the confession booth. Once inside, the boy states, “it’s dark in here.”
The priest replies, “don’t start that crap again!”
One day, her 9-year-old son hides in the closet during one of her romps. Her husband comes home unexpectedly, so she hides the lover in the closet.
The little boy says, “it’s dark in here.”
The man whispers, “yes, it is.”
“I have a baseball,” the boy responds.
“That’s nice.”
“Want to buy it?”
“No, thanks.”
“My dad’s outside.”
“Okay, how much?”
“$250.”
In the next few weeks, it happens again that the boy and the mom’s lover end up in the closet together.
“It’s dark in here,” the boy begins.
“Yes, it is.”
“I have a baseball glove.”
The man thinks about the last time they were in the closet together, and decided to cut to the chase — “How much?”
“$750.”
“Fine.”
A few days later, the father says to the boy, “grab your ball and glove. Let’s go outside and play some catch!”
“I can’t. I sold them.”
“How much did you sell them for?”
“$1,000,” the boy replies, smilingly widely.
His father responds, “it’s terrible to overcharge your friends like that. That’s way more than those two things cost. I’m going to take you to church to confess.”
The two go to church, and the boy’s father escorts him to the confession booth. Once inside, the boy states, “it’s dark in here.”
The priest replies, “don’t start that crap again!”
pen types Aust V US
hello everyone am looking for a list (sure one was posted here) of the differant names for pens eg aust/sierra us/aero i think aust / baron & sedona us/?aust / pristina us/? aust /Jr Marshall us/?aust / Jr Statsman us/?for all i know they might be called the same thanks in advance for any feed back cheers Tony
Custom Built Oscillating Spindle Sander -- A Features Wish List
Hi Guys:
I've approached Michael Heidegger of Parken Engineering (Melbourne) to design and make me an oscillating spindle sander. So far the scenario goes that I've given him a list of criteria, he will come up with some drawings (we're at this stage), we'll then discuss the fine points and price :oo:, and then hopefully I'll be able to give the green light for production.
The main reasons why I want a custom built machine is that I want some of the best features of the big industrial machines, packed down into a portable unit. I also like the flexibility of the Rigid machine which accommodates a small platen and sanding belt as well. My criteria are as follows:
- must be portable; I would say 35kg or less
- motor, due to the sanding belt, I was thinking about 2HP (is this about right?)
- must be variable speed (VFD), I was thinking of a range of 100-2000 (your thoughts?)
- oscillation, say about 30-40mm
- working surface, probably machined aluminium to keep the weight down
- insert rings, and cover for the platen option, plastic (?), aluminium (?), timber (?)
- machine base, able to be clamped down to my assembly table
- dust extraction, above table, able to handle a 160mm flex duct which I have available for use
I would love your general input on what you would wish/want when it comes to the "ultimate" oscillating spindle/edge sander. Do you think it is a crazy idea to try to combine the two (Rigid style)? Should they be separated? Are there any desirable features I've missed? Etc.
Further, I need your know-how and experience when it comes to spindles. I've searched the internet but do not find much detail about how spindles are attached. I've examined the Jet machine at Carba-tec and it appears to have left-hand thread and some kind of collet (almost looks like MT1). Is this the best? Should I just buy the Jet Spindles and use those? Are there other spindles out there? Parken Engineering can actually make the spindles too, so any suggestions on spindle design improvement would be helpful.
I plan to use standard sizes, 1/2", 3/4", 1", 2", 3", 4", although does everyone use all these sizes?
I want the dust extraction to be worthy of BobL's admiration, which we all know sets the bar very high! At first I was thinking about a close-fitting moveable shroud for the spindle/platen, which was magnetic and could be moved around on the table. Obviously, if the table is aluminium, then the shroud will need to be attached in another way, perhaps with pins into holes in the table top, or...? Might need two different shroud styles.
Sorry, a bit of a long post with lots of questions!
Thanks for any input you guys have. Much appreciated.
I've approached Michael Heidegger of Parken Engineering (Melbourne) to design and make me an oscillating spindle sander. So far the scenario goes that I've given him a list of criteria, he will come up with some drawings (we're at this stage), we'll then discuss the fine points and price :oo:, and then hopefully I'll be able to give the green light for production.
The main reasons why I want a custom built machine is that I want some of the best features of the big industrial machines, packed down into a portable unit. I also like the flexibility of the Rigid machine which accommodates a small platen and sanding belt as well. My criteria are as follows:
- must be portable; I would say 35kg or less
- motor, due to the sanding belt, I was thinking about 2HP (is this about right?)
- must be variable speed (VFD), I was thinking of a range of 100-2000 (your thoughts?)
- oscillation, say about 30-40mm
- working surface, probably machined aluminium to keep the weight down
- insert rings, and cover for the platen option, plastic (?), aluminium (?), timber (?)
- machine base, able to be clamped down to my assembly table
- dust extraction, above table, able to handle a 160mm flex duct which I have available for use
I would love your general input on what you would wish/want when it comes to the "ultimate" oscillating spindle/edge sander. Do you think it is a crazy idea to try to combine the two (Rigid style)? Should they be separated? Are there any desirable features I've missed? Etc.
Further, I need your know-how and experience when it comes to spindles. I've searched the internet but do not find much detail about how spindles are attached. I've examined the Jet machine at Carba-tec and it appears to have left-hand thread and some kind of collet (almost looks like MT1). Is this the best? Should I just buy the Jet Spindles and use those? Are there other spindles out there? Parken Engineering can actually make the spindles too, so any suggestions on spindle design improvement would be helpful.
I plan to use standard sizes, 1/2", 3/4", 1", 2", 3", 4", although does everyone use all these sizes?
I want the dust extraction to be worthy of BobL's admiration, which we all know sets the bar very high! At first I was thinking about a close-fitting moveable shroud for the spindle/platen, which was magnetic and could be moved around on the table. Obviously, if the table is aluminium, then the shroud will need to be attached in another way, perhaps with pins into holes in the table top, or...? Might need two different shroud styles.
Sorry, a bit of a long post with lots of questions!
Thanks for any input you guys have. Much appreciated.
What is FJ1 and FJ2 on construction drawings stand for?
Hi All
I have a construction drawing - on some sections, there a code FJ1 and FJ2 specified - I know FJ stands for Floor Joist - but not sure what 1 and 2 are there for?
Any one has any ideas ?
Thank You in advance
Liam
I have a construction drawing - on some sections, there a code FJ1 and FJ2 specified - I know FJ stands for Floor Joist - but not sure what 1 and 2 are there for?
Any one has any ideas ?
Thank You in advance
Liam
What is FJ1 and FJ2 on construction drawings - Diff?
Hi All
I have a construction drawings - on some sections, there a code FJ1 and FJ2 specified - I know FJ stands for Floor Joist - but not sure what 1 and 2 are there for?
Any one has any ideas ?
Thank You in advance
Liam
I have a construction drawings - on some sections, there a code FJ1 and FJ2 specified - I know FJ stands for Floor Joist - but not sure what 1 and 2 are there for?
Any one has any ideas ?
Thank You in advance
Liam
Mohawk Shelburne Arbor
I picked this up today off Gumtree. It's a 1935-1048 era Mohawk Shelburne arbor that I'm going to add to my sharpening station. I gather that the Mohawk Shelburne company was a discount line of tools owned by Millers Falls.
I pulled it apart and made sure that everything spins freely and cleaned it up a bit and even discovered the original water decal was mostly intact under some masking tape. I am looking forward to putting it to some use :)
Craig
Mohawk Shelburne Arbor 01.jpg
I pulled it apart and made sure that everything spins freely and cleaned it up a bit and even discovered the original water decal was mostly intact under some masking tape. I am looking forward to putting it to some use :)
Craig
Mohawk Shelburne Arbor 01.jpg
Multiturn Variable Resistor for a VFD Remote
When I was in the final stages of setting up my lathe to run with the VFD I discussed the idea of using a Multiturn Variable Resistor to control the motor speed. At the time I ordered a couple as well as the counting knobs (?). These have been sitting on a shelf since then. Last weekend I decided to try one.
It worked fine except that it did not give the full range of speed that the normal pot did. Maximum resistance was measured about the same as the removed pot. They are both 10k ohm, but measured a bit under this. What I can do now is to set a pretty accurate motor speed by simply dialing in on the pot. Much more accurately than previously.
I have been wondering how to get a greater range of speed. The Multiturn VR provides a maximum speed of about 50Hz. It is a 10 turn pot. The first 8 turns do next to nothing. Working on a minimum usable speed of 15Hz I worked out the position of the pot at this point. Setting the other spare pot to the same position I measured its resistance and determined that there was about 5k of unused resistance up to this point.
I then thought that if I added a 4k7 resistor in series, this should move the usable range of speed back to the previously unused portion of the multiturn pot and provide more speed range at the higher resistance end.
I may be totally wrong here as I am no expert in this field. Can anyone comment on my ruminations.
Dean
It worked fine except that it did not give the full range of speed that the normal pot did. Maximum resistance was measured about the same as the removed pot. They are both 10k ohm, but measured a bit under this. What I can do now is to set a pretty accurate motor speed by simply dialing in on the pot. Much more accurately than previously.
I have been wondering how to get a greater range of speed. The Multiturn VR provides a maximum speed of about 50Hz. It is a 10 turn pot. The first 8 turns do next to nothing. Working on a minimum usable speed of 15Hz I worked out the position of the pot at this point. Setting the other spare pot to the same position I measured its resistance and determined that there was about 5k of unused resistance up to this point.
I then thought that if I added a 4k7 resistor in series, this should move the usable range of speed back to the previously unused portion of the multiturn pot and provide more speed range at the higher resistance end.
I may be totally wrong here as I am no expert in this field. Can anyone comment on my ruminations.
Dean
Gorilla Step Ladder Trade-In Offer
Has anybody used the trade-in offer at Bunnings where they give you $50 for your old step ladder against the purchase of a new Gorilla step ladder? Just wondered if there were any clauses or caveats about what they will and won't accept.
Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...
Read the full thread at RenovateForum.com...
Redwood Machinery - Adelaide
For those of us in Adelaide: Redwood Machinery on South Road which has been closing down for the last 237 years is now only open on Thursdays according to the placard on the front door.
My new mill
I have been looking for a horizontal/ vertical mill for a while, preferably with a DRO and quill feed, rather than the fixed head of a lot of older ones. The ones at the local dealers were a bit light (900kg) and expensive. Just today I got a new ZX6350A mill. Best Chinese - the previous owner imported, unpacked the crate, and health problems meant he needed to sell it without using it - it is still bolted to the pallet. Power x-y and Z axis, central lubricator, power downfeed spindle and coolant pump and DRO and 1350kg. Just right for a hobby machine.
Not sure how I am actually going to get it off the trailer though. Might get a Hiab rather than mucking around as it is rather large. It only just fits in the shed door.
Anyone know of any manuals for these? I assuem I wil lahve to fil the gerboxes with oil and would like to know what and where it goes.
Geoff
mill arrives.jpg
Not sure how I am actually going to get it off the trailer though. Might get a Hiab rather than mucking around as it is rather large. It only just fits in the shed door.
Anyone know of any manuals for these? I assuem I wil lahve to fil the gerboxes with oil and would like to know what and where it goes.
Geoff
mill arrives.jpg
The 2015 Cooroora Wood and Craft Show @ Cooroy QLD 8-9 May
Cooroy Memorial Hall and Lowermill Precinct
Some of the fine entries in a recent show | |||||||
Wanted to buy - Mitre template or saddle.
I am still looking and hoping someone has either one or both of the mitre templates as shown in the pictures. I posted this same request last year after knocking mine off the bench and it cracked. I have the first pictured which is the external mitretemplate. The second is the internal template which I would find very useful too.
Postage to Lara in Victoria.
Regards Col. Lara. Vic.
Postage to Lara in Victoria.
Regards Col. Lara. Vic.
Impact Driving of Very Old Floor Nails
Good Morning Everyone
A friend has proposed a novel solution to a problem and I am wondering if anyone else has tried it. I do not wish to risk damaging very old floors.
Background
My house is over 130 years old with messmate floors (Eucalyptus Obliqua) and Tas blue gum floor joists (E Globulus). With over a century of drying the timbers are extremely hard - I cannot drive a nail into the joists and if I drill the joists the bit basically burns its way through.
The Problem
I want to sand and polish my family room floor. First I must drive some of the floor nails so that they are below the level of the sander, and then bog the holes.
When I did my kitchen I made a punch from tool steel and welded it to a bit of flat iron (to save fingers) and then used a short handled sledge hammer to punch the nails. It was very heavy going - five or six whacks on each nail!
And my family room is three times the size of the kitchen, and many more nails to be punched.
The Solution ???
A friend has proposed that I should use an impact driver on those recalcitrant nails, rather than a hammer and punch. Is this likely to work or am I likely to damage the floor?
These are fairly large hand made nails that have been well imbedded in the floor for 130+ years.
Has anyone any experience with this? Or is there a better option?
Thank you
Graeme
A friend has proposed a novel solution to a problem and I am wondering if anyone else has tried it. I do not wish to risk damaging very old floors.
Background
My house is over 130 years old with messmate floors (Eucalyptus Obliqua) and Tas blue gum floor joists (E Globulus). With over a century of drying the timbers are extremely hard - I cannot drive a nail into the joists and if I drill the joists the bit basically burns its way through.
The Problem
I want to sand and polish my family room floor. First I must drive some of the floor nails so that they are below the level of the sander, and then bog the holes.
When I did my kitchen I made a punch from tool steel and welded it to a bit of flat iron (to save fingers) and then used a short handled sledge hammer to punch the nails. It was very heavy going - five or six whacks on each nail!
And my family room is three times the size of the kitchen, and many more nails to be punched.
The Solution ???
A friend has proposed that I should use an impact driver on those recalcitrant nails, rather than a hammer and punch. Is this likely to work or am I likely to damage the floor?
These are fairly large hand made nails that have been well imbedded in the floor for 130+ years.
Has anyone any experience with this? Or is there a better option?
Thank you
Graeme
Tail Stock Alignment.
I found that my tail stock was know longer in alignment with the head stock.:((
I put a 200 X 25.05 mm piece of aluminium, turned a sliver off of it.
24.90 mm tail stock end
24.85 mm head stock end
To fix this do I loosen the tail stock and move it 0.05 Towards the front of my lathe?:?
I have a Steelmaster 9 X 20 lathe.
I put a 200 X 25.05 mm piece of aluminium, turned a sliver off of it.
24.90 mm tail stock end
24.85 mm head stock end
To fix this do I loosen the tail stock and move it 0.05 Towards the front of my lathe?:?
I have a Steelmaster 9 X 20 lathe.
4 jaw chucks?
Why are metal lathes self centering chucks most commonly 3 jaw?
Wouldn't 4 self centering chucks be more use full than 3 jaw?
Do they make a 4 centering chuck for a Seig 6 style lathe?
Wouldn't 4 self centering chucks be more use full than 3 jaw?
Do they make a 4 centering chuck for a Seig 6 style lathe?
Where there is a will there is normally a way...
I think one of my faults is I think too much, followed usually by not thinking enough.
The thinking too much bit usually starts with "Hmm. How would I do that?", followed after a while with "But would that work?" and then "I'd better try it before I suggest it".
The questions I don’t ask (the not thinking enough part) are along the lines of "Yes, but if I make one, what will I do with it" and "I could probably make one but would it be better to let X gain the experience/ satisfaction/ have the pleasure" and so on. (My wife would probably add "how much will it cost", but let's not go there)
This story is probably triggered by Andre and his Stent story. In order to make it work he needs a rack and pinion. A pinion is not an issue. I've made lots of spur gears and I'd like to think I have a pretty fair idea on how to make them. The rack was another matter. I did some small racks for Bob recently but they were a bit of a cheat – at only 50mm long or there about, not a great stretch at all. I am meaning to (one day) make up a rack cutting head and index mechanism for the mill but time, money and other considerations mean that it has not happened yet.
(The "how would I do that" thought)
Andre needs a 20DP rack, 3/8" square and 9" long. No. can't do it. No way of getting a cutter rotating parallel with the long axis of the mill. Although… The horizontal arbor is around 13" from bearing to drive flange…theoretically the cutter could be moved in say 3 or 4 inch increments along the arbor if the rack blank was perpendicular to the long axis. Well – that might work. Still, I couldn't do it as I have no way of holding the blank. 3/8" isn't much to hold onto, especially with a 2.74mm DOC – could I start with something deeper, cut it off later. Yeah, that could work. Still got to hold it on the mill table though. Turn the vice around? No. I'd have to remove the key on the bottom, lining it up and then holding it would be a pain and I couldn't get a good swing on the handle to tighten it. Just as well. I've got enough to do at the moment. Really needs something like some toe clamps... Hang on – I think I have some of those in a drawer that I got once for a low profile job. Probably just fit too. Hmm.
(The "but would that work" thought)
So – hold a deeper than needed blank with some toe clamps, cut with a rack cutter and move the cutter along the arbor as needed, indexing the circular pitch to cut the rack. Yes, potentially that might work.
(And then)
I suppose there might be some issues I haven't thought about. Better try it I guess. Wouldn't want to suggest something that isn't terribly practical…
and so, Alea iacta est ("The die is cast"- attributed to Julius Caesar)
It turned out the job was relatively easy. I clamped the blank upright between some strips of material so I had cutter clearance , In the foreground you can see the toe clamp - this is a commercial one called 'Mitee-bite" but Harold Hall (who signed up recently as a member) I recall did a "how to make" in MEW several years back. For low profile clamping they are very good.
P1020765 (Medium).JPG
The next photo is about half way through. At just under the 3" mark I would stop, wind the table back and then reposition the cutter on the arbor. Line the cutter up with a cut, index and off I'd go again. This rack took 4 changes but surprisingly they did not take long and realigning the cutter was easy.
P1020767 (Medium).JPG
The final result - I made up a test gear to try on it - it meshes nicely. There do not seem to be any awkward or hard spots where I repositioned so I guess I can say that yes, this is one way to make a short length of rack.
P1020772 (Medium).JPG
Of course, now I have an ethical dilemma - (One of the things I didn't think about in the first place). Do I give this to Andre and prevent him having the learning experience of doing it himself, or should I keep it - even though I have no use for it - so he can gain in experience?
Michael
The thinking too much bit usually starts with "Hmm. How would I do that?", followed after a while with "But would that work?" and then "I'd better try it before I suggest it".
The questions I don’t ask (the not thinking enough part) are along the lines of "Yes, but if I make one, what will I do with it" and "I could probably make one but would it be better to let X gain the experience/ satisfaction/ have the pleasure" and so on. (My wife would probably add "how much will it cost", but let's not go there)
This story is probably triggered by Andre and his Stent story. In order to make it work he needs a rack and pinion. A pinion is not an issue. I've made lots of spur gears and I'd like to think I have a pretty fair idea on how to make them. The rack was another matter. I did some small racks for Bob recently but they were a bit of a cheat – at only 50mm long or there about, not a great stretch at all. I am meaning to (one day) make up a rack cutting head and index mechanism for the mill but time, money and other considerations mean that it has not happened yet.
(The "how would I do that" thought)
Andre needs a 20DP rack, 3/8" square and 9" long. No. can't do it. No way of getting a cutter rotating parallel with the long axis of the mill. Although… The horizontal arbor is around 13" from bearing to drive flange…theoretically the cutter could be moved in say 3 or 4 inch increments along the arbor if the rack blank was perpendicular to the long axis. Well – that might work. Still, I couldn't do it as I have no way of holding the blank. 3/8" isn't much to hold onto, especially with a 2.74mm DOC – could I start with something deeper, cut it off later. Yeah, that could work. Still got to hold it on the mill table though. Turn the vice around? No. I'd have to remove the key on the bottom, lining it up and then holding it would be a pain and I couldn't get a good swing on the handle to tighten it. Just as well. I've got enough to do at the moment. Really needs something like some toe clamps... Hang on – I think I have some of those in a drawer that I got once for a low profile job. Probably just fit too. Hmm.
(The "but would that work" thought)
So – hold a deeper than needed blank with some toe clamps, cut with a rack cutter and move the cutter along the arbor as needed, indexing the circular pitch to cut the rack. Yes, potentially that might work.
(And then)
I suppose there might be some issues I haven't thought about. Better try it I guess. Wouldn't want to suggest something that isn't terribly practical…
and so, Alea iacta est ("The die is cast"- attributed to Julius Caesar)
It turned out the job was relatively easy. I clamped the blank upright between some strips of material so I had cutter clearance , In the foreground you can see the toe clamp - this is a commercial one called 'Mitee-bite" but Harold Hall (who signed up recently as a member) I recall did a "how to make" in MEW several years back. For low profile clamping they are very good.
P1020765 (Medium).JPG
The next photo is about half way through. At just under the 3" mark I would stop, wind the table back and then reposition the cutter on the arbor. Line the cutter up with a cut, index and off I'd go again. This rack took 4 changes but surprisingly they did not take long and realigning the cutter was easy.
P1020767 (Medium).JPG
The final result - I made up a test gear to try on it - it meshes nicely. There do not seem to be any awkward or hard spots where I repositioned so I guess I can say that yes, this is one way to make a short length of rack.
P1020772 (Medium).JPG
Of course, now I have an ethical dilemma - (One of the things I didn't think about in the first place). Do I give this to Andre and prevent him having the learning experience of doing it himself, or should I keep it - even though I have no use for it - so he can gain in experience?
Michael
Dowel Jig
Hi,
I am making several large frames with mitred corners that i was going to join with dowels. I tried making a jig but the result was not quite accurate enough. M&T is not an option and I don't have the cash for a Dominio so I was hoping someone could recommend a dowel jig, preferably under $100.
Thanks for your help.
I am making several large frames with mitred corners that i was going to join with dowels. I tried making a jig but the result was not quite accurate enough. M&T is not an option and I don't have the cash for a Dominio so I was hoping someone could recommend a dowel jig, preferably under $100.
Thanks for your help.
A short drive through the Australian bush
http://ift.tt/1zhgg2t
This can only be stopped by reporting these grots if and when we see them doing this.
This can only be stopped by reporting these grots if and when we see them doing this.
Box expands after lid cut
Hi, I am in the process of making a blackbean box with huon pine veneered lid 500L x 200W x 120H. The base and the lid are both made of 1.0mm thick veneers I bandsawed and glued to a 4mm plywood base. The 6mm thick base is glued into a rebated groove 6mm from the bottom of the box, and the 6mm thick lid is dropped into a rebated top edge and glued, so the box is glued top and bottom. The corners are mitred with keys right down to the inside corners. I put a 1mm hole in the base to allow for expansion and contraction. Pics below show the box just after hinges fitted, no finishing yet. Inlay on the lid is Queen Ebony I resawed, and the keys are made of Qld Silver Ash.
After I bandsawed the lid off 30mm from the top I checked that the box and lid met nicely, I fitted the SmartHinges after some difficulty with shearing off a steel #3 5/8" pilot screw. Of course it was the last of the 8 hinge screws to be fitted.
The problem is that I found the next day that the long box sides had bowed outwards by 0.7mm. The lid sides did not, so I have a nice lip in the box at the lid join, on the front and rear. The corners all still align nicely.
The box was made here in currently very hot and humid tropics, with shed temperatures 43 degC, and is destined for the cooler climes of Sydney.
Can anyone please suggest any reasons as to why the box sides expanded outwards after the lid was cut off? And how to fix the problem? All ideas and suggestions welcomed.
NeedleBox_01.jpgNeedleBox_02.jpgNeedleBox_03.jpgNeedleBox_04.jpgNeedleBox_05.jpg
After I bandsawed the lid off 30mm from the top I checked that the box and lid met nicely, I fitted the SmartHinges after some difficulty with shearing off a steel #3 5/8" pilot screw. Of course it was the last of the 8 hinge screws to be fitted.
The problem is that I found the next day that the long box sides had bowed outwards by 0.7mm. The lid sides did not, so I have a nice lip in the box at the lid join, on the front and rear. The corners all still align nicely.
The box was made here in currently very hot and humid tropics, with shed temperatures 43 degC, and is destined for the cooler climes of Sydney.
Can anyone please suggest any reasons as to why the box sides expanded outwards after the lid was cut off? And how to fix the problem? All ideas and suggestions welcomed.
NeedleBox_01.jpgNeedleBox_02.jpgNeedleBox_03.jpgNeedleBox_04.jpgNeedleBox_05.jpg
Pain Location
A patient who came to my radiology office for abdominal X-rays was already heavily sedated.
But I still had to ask her a lot of questions, the last one being, "Ma'am, where is your pain right now?"
Through her medicated fog, she answered, "He's at work."
But I still had to ask her a lot of questions, the last one being, "Ma'am, where is your pain right now?"
Through her medicated fog, she answered, "He's at work."
Closed End Pen
My latest pen not having turned one for about 18months. The kit is a Junior gentleman,s pen but with a closed end. The blank is a polyester one I had in the draw.
comp 1.jpgcomp 2.jpg
comp 1.jpgcomp 2.jpg
Square profile skirting
I recently completed a fix for a client using 67x19mm MDF skirting. They are now refusing to pay me because I haven't mitred the internal corners...?
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I was taught to always mitre the external corners and scribe the internals. With the exception being square skirting, where butt joining the internals is fine!
Any thoughts and feedback on this matter would be much appreciated....
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I was taught to always mitre the external corners and scribe the internals. With the exception being square skirting, where butt joining the internals is fine!
Any thoughts and feedback on this matter would be much appreciated....
Square profile skirting
I recently completed a fix for a client using 67x19mm MDF skirting. They are now refusing to pay me because I haven't mitred the internal corners...?
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I was taught to always mitre the external corners and scribe the internals. With the exception being square skirting, where butt joining the internals is fine!
Any thoughts and feedback on this matter would be much appreciated....
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I was taught to always mitre the external corners and scribe the internals. With the exception being square skirting, where butt joining the internals is fine!
Any thoughts and feedback on this matter would be much appreciated....
G'day from Essdubbya - Glenorie Oz
recently retired and reviving interest in woodwork - mainly at SWMBO's request.
Have been re-tooling with mostly Festool stuff - it should see me out.
Currently doing all the jobs around a 20 year old house that require timber work renovation
First I built a simple portable bench top that I clamp into a couple of Chinese 'workmates'
Second I made a bunch of bench dogs - cheap (less than $3 each) and work very well
Third I found my old Veritas bench clamps
Now I am set up for the many projects my wife has for me (and then some):roll:
Have been re-tooling with mostly Festool stuff - it should see me out.
Currently doing all the jobs around a 20 year old house that require timber work renovation
First I built a simple portable bench top that I clamp into a couple of Chinese 'workmates'
Second I made a bunch of bench dogs - cheap (less than $3 each) and work very well
Third I found my old Veritas bench clamps
Now I am set up for the many projects my wife has for me (and then some):roll:
Uni-Jig 5
I recently picked up a second hand grinder that came with a box of associated parts, wheels etc and contained within were the items shown in the attached photo. I believe it to be an old grinding system called Uni-Jig 5.
Would greatly appreciate any info anyone can provide about this system....a user manual or instruction sheet would be realty appreciated. I'm not sure that all of the parts are there either.....
Regards
John
IMG_1666.jpg
Would greatly appreciate any info anyone can provide about this system....a user manual or instruction sheet would be realty appreciated. I'm not sure that all of the parts are there either.....
Regards
John
IMG_1666.jpg
The good and bad news
A few years ago I decided to get into the digital age as my Nikon 301s
(SLR film camera) was no longer being used.
I purchased a Kodak 2MP digital for $340 which seemed a fortune but
nevertheless it served me well.
A year ago the kids bought me a 10.2MP Kodak for $99 and I have been
happy with it. However I lost/misplaced it last October and have not
seen it since. It was great for inserting photos on this Forum.
This week I managed to successfully bid on the same model 10.2MP Kodak
camera on eBay for the vast sum of $5.50. Yes it works so I can now
get active again. Another case of yesterday's treasures being practically
worthless today.
Allan
(SLR film camera) was no longer being used.
I purchased a Kodak 2MP digital for $340 which seemed a fortune but
nevertheless it served me well.
A year ago the kids bought me a 10.2MP Kodak for $99 and I have been
happy with it. However I lost/misplaced it last October and have not
seen it since. It was great for inserting photos on this Forum.
This week I managed to successfully bid on the same model 10.2MP Kodak
camera on eBay for the vast sum of $5.50. Yes it works so I can now
get active again. Another case of yesterday's treasures being practically
worthless today.
Allan
braze welding copper
Hi Folks
Any tips on braze welding copper wire please, I am trying to do some wire art.
What brazing rod should I use?
Any tips on braze welding copper wire please, I am trying to do some wire art.
What brazing rod should I use?
Giant Eucalyptus trees of South Africa
Stumbled upon this article and thought I'd share it here. Quite interesting how tall these trees grow over here, imagine how big they could get in another 100 years.
In November 2008 Stihl South Africa sponsored a tree climbing expedition to the tallest trees in Africa – a stand of Saligna gum trees planted in 1906 at Woodbush Estate near Haenertsburg in Limpopo. The tallest tree in this stand was measured at 81.5 m by a land surveyor in 2002, but fell down during a storm in 2007. The tree expedition led by professional tree climbers Leon Visser and Charles Green found the newest giant among this stand of Champion trees, measured at 79 metres. This tree, and the one standing next to it (measured at 78.5 m) have been dubbed the 'Twin Giants of Magoebaskloof'. Stihl South Africa is now sponsoring information boards to be erected at this site, and at the monument of forestry pioneer James Alexander O'Connor and his famous Eucalyptus tree lane nearby.
These Saligna gum trees (Eucalyptus saligna) could also be the tallest planted trees in the world. Forest scientists from Australia where these tree species grow naturally, are astounded not only by the height attained by the trees in South Africa, but also at their phenomenal growth rate. The benign soils and climate of Magoebaskloof have produced many outstanding trees, and has the largest concentration of trees on the big tree register in the country.
A giant Eucalyptus tree
A Eucalyptus tree with a giant trunk circumference of more than eight metres has been discovered at Senekal in the Free State. This comes at a time when the only declared Champion trees in this province are in deep trouble. A group of tall Cedar trees growing in front of the old government buildings in Mangaung (Bloemfontein) have died mysteriously, and the cause of death is being investigated by experts from FABI. These trees were planted by prominent British officials such as Lord Alfred Milner and royalty such as Dom Luiz Fillipe (Duke of Braganza) more than a century ago. The cypress trees planted by president Brand of the Free State and other important guests in 1879 are fortunately unaffected. The curator of the Afrikaans Literary Museum and Research Centre now housed in the buildings, Mr Otto Liebenberg, said that a possible cause may be that the trees received too little water during building works on site, and that over-watering may have occurred once the construction activities ceased.
A big baobab
Early in 2009, a huge baobab occurring near the village Maekgwe in the Limpopo province was nominated for Champion tree status. With a trunk circumference of 34 m, height of 21 m and crown width of 34 m, this turns out to be the second largest indigenous tree in the country, but experts still have to visit the tree and confirm the measurements.
A river red gum tree with trunk circumference of 9.7 m, height of 38 m and crown spread of 40 m was discovered in Stellenbosch by Professor Brian Bredenkamp recently, and is now possibly the biggest of the Champion trees according to the size index which combines all three measurements.
The tallest indigenous tree on the Champion list is a Monkey thorn (also Tree of the Year) measured at 39 m, in the Groot Marico district. The biggest crown width of more than 61 m was measured for a centuries-old low-growing Candlethorn (trassiebos) near Nylstroom with trunks that resprouted wherever they touched ground, and a crown width of more than 61 m. This tree is threatened by several hundred invasive Seringa trees growing into its crown area from the perimeter, which are now being eradicated by members of the Dendrological Society of South Africa.
http://ift.tt/1vfsYyZ
Quote:
In November 2008 Stihl South Africa sponsored a tree climbing expedition to the tallest trees in Africa – a stand of Saligna gum trees planted in 1906 at Woodbush Estate near Haenertsburg in Limpopo. The tallest tree in this stand was measured at 81.5 m by a land surveyor in 2002, but fell down during a storm in 2007. The tree expedition led by professional tree climbers Leon Visser and Charles Green found the newest giant among this stand of Champion trees, measured at 79 metres. This tree, and the one standing next to it (measured at 78.5 m) have been dubbed the 'Twin Giants of Magoebaskloof'. Stihl South Africa is now sponsoring information boards to be erected at this site, and at the monument of forestry pioneer James Alexander O'Connor and his famous Eucalyptus tree lane nearby.
These Saligna gum trees (Eucalyptus saligna) could also be the tallest planted trees in the world. Forest scientists from Australia where these tree species grow naturally, are astounded not only by the height attained by the trees in South Africa, but also at their phenomenal growth rate. The benign soils and climate of Magoebaskloof have produced many outstanding trees, and has the largest concentration of trees on the big tree register in the country.
A giant Eucalyptus tree
A Eucalyptus tree with a giant trunk circumference of more than eight metres has been discovered at Senekal in the Free State. This comes at a time when the only declared Champion trees in this province are in deep trouble. A group of tall Cedar trees growing in front of the old government buildings in Mangaung (Bloemfontein) have died mysteriously, and the cause of death is being investigated by experts from FABI. These trees were planted by prominent British officials such as Lord Alfred Milner and royalty such as Dom Luiz Fillipe (Duke of Braganza) more than a century ago. The cypress trees planted by president Brand of the Free State and other important guests in 1879 are fortunately unaffected. The curator of the Afrikaans Literary Museum and Research Centre now housed in the buildings, Mr Otto Liebenberg, said that a possible cause may be that the trees received too little water during building works on site, and that over-watering may have occurred once the construction activities ceased.
A big baobab
Early in 2009, a huge baobab occurring near the village Maekgwe in the Limpopo province was nominated for Champion tree status. With a trunk circumference of 34 m, height of 21 m and crown width of 34 m, this turns out to be the second largest indigenous tree in the country, but experts still have to visit the tree and confirm the measurements.
A river red gum tree with trunk circumference of 9.7 m, height of 38 m and crown spread of 40 m was discovered in Stellenbosch by Professor Brian Bredenkamp recently, and is now possibly the biggest of the Champion trees according to the size index which combines all three measurements.
The tallest indigenous tree on the Champion list is a Monkey thorn (also Tree of the Year) measured at 39 m, in the Groot Marico district. The biggest crown width of more than 61 m was measured for a centuries-old low-growing Candlethorn (trassiebos) near Nylstroom with trunks that resprouted wherever they touched ground, and a crown width of more than 61 m. This tree is threatened by several hundred invasive Seringa trees growing into its crown area from the perimeter, which are now being eradicated by members of the Dendrological Society of South Africa.
http://ift.tt/1vfsYyZ
Off road trailer
Hi, I have been going to build a trailer for the last couple of years but other projects keep coming up. I am looking for a high quality off road trailer to be used for camping and also for landscaping and rubbish removal. Any suggestions? I was thinking maybe a Dean box trailer but I would also want a tow bar type attachment at the back for attaching a Thule bike rack as per some camper trailers. Any suggestions or ideas appreciated. Thanks
Sort of metal related.... Laser inventer dies
This may get nuked by a moderator, but it is metal work related as today we use lasers to cut and weld metal, and mark metal and line up machine tools...
The inventer of the laser died yesterday
http://ift.tt/1zdjx2L
Although you would be hard pressed to find out about in on any Australian news site.... While when a cricketer dies, we get a weeks blanket coverage... I think I know who contributed more to the world...
The inventer of the laser died yesterday
http://ift.tt/1zdjx2L
Although you would be hard pressed to find out about in on any Australian news site.... While when a cricketer dies, we get a weeks blanket coverage... I think I know who contributed more to the world...
Omega Stubby 750 Wood lathe
Omega Stubby 750 wood lathe plus extras vicmark 120 chuck with coles jaws and extension bolts 130 mm shark jaws carba-tec spur drive with 12 19 40 mm spurs three point steady rest Vermec hollowing tool materials for deep hollowing tool. all in good condition pick up Wauchope NSW
Timber and Steel Gates too heavy??
Hi All,
Hope I have posted in the right area? Well the time has come for me to make some gates for the end of my carport and side path. I've always wanted steel frame gates painted black with Merbau timber slats running horizontally. The gates need to be aprox 1800mm high and the pair of gates in the carport will about 1300mm wide each. The problem I have is the Merbau is going to cost a fortune.
Just the other day I was given this mass pile of Modwood (a great product) which I thought will be a great alternative. (See pic)
I was going to rip the wide boards in half to match the narrow ones. This stuff is 32mm thick! Wow! And it's heavy!!! I thought about making the gates from 30x30x2.5 SHS. Do you think this will be sufficient?
i guess the big issue in the back of my mind the whole time is the weight of these gates. I would use 4 x weld on hinges on each gate but I am worried if the brick work can hold such weight. I was thinking about using a heavy duty steel posts on each side which will then be bolted to the brick work at several locations down each side of each post. (To try to spread the load across more than one brick). Then do I use dyna bolts or Excalibur bolts?
This really has me concerned. I would appreciate any advise please.
Thank you,
Derek
Hope I have posted in the right area? Well the time has come for me to make some gates for the end of my carport and side path. I've always wanted steel frame gates painted black with Merbau timber slats running horizontally. The gates need to be aprox 1800mm high and the pair of gates in the carport will about 1300mm wide each. The problem I have is the Merbau is going to cost a fortune.
Just the other day I was given this mass pile of Modwood (a great product) which I thought will be a great alternative. (See pic)
I was going to rip the wide boards in half to match the narrow ones. This stuff is 32mm thick! Wow! And it's heavy!!! I thought about making the gates from 30x30x2.5 SHS. Do you think this will be sufficient?
i guess the big issue in the back of my mind the whole time is the weight of these gates. I would use 4 x weld on hinges on each gate but I am worried if the brick work can hold such weight. I was thinking about using a heavy duty steel posts on each side which will then be bolted to the brick work at several locations down each side of each post. (To try to spread the load across more than one brick). Then do I use dyna bolts or Excalibur bolts?
This really has me concerned. I would appreciate any advise please.
Thank you,
Derek
VIC Hobby Lathe
I have decided to upgrade after some 30 odd years of turning bits and pieces (mostly brass, aluminium and plastic).
Quality old cast iron bed hobby lathe comes complete with 1/4HP motor and cage.
This lathe will suit the beginner or someone who wants to turn bolts etc down, make shims, packers and especially antenna parts. It is not a precision thread making device.
Important measurements are 7" between centres and 2 1/4" swing over bed. The 3 jaw chuck is 3 1/2" Dia made by Warren and Brown.
Motor is tensioned (by spring) to the bench standup, but the bench is not included in this sale.
Includes chuck key, dead centre, MT tailstock chuck (Jacobs) and drip tray as shown.
PM if you have any questions and I am looking for $350 plus packing and post at your cost. At this time I am not sure of the weight as it is still on the bench, but it will not be light to post, especially with motor and carrier. Local collection would be ideal.
Quality old cast iron bed hobby lathe comes complete with 1/4HP motor and cage.
This lathe will suit the beginner or someone who wants to turn bolts etc down, make shims, packers and especially antenna parts. It is not a precision thread making device.
Important measurements are 7" between centres and 2 1/4" swing over bed. The 3 jaw chuck is 3 1/2" Dia made by Warren and Brown.
Motor is tensioned (by spring) to the bench standup, but the bench is not included in this sale.
Includes chuck key, dead centre, MT tailstock chuck (Jacobs) and drip tray as shown.
PM if you have any questions and I am looking for $350 plus packing and post at your cost. At this time I am not sure of the weight as it is still on the bench, but it will not be light to post, especially with motor and carrier. Local collection would be ideal.
Dremel attachments
I have an older Dremel that only does 10k. rpm. max.
I am wondering how effective the attachments, such as the router base, would be with this tool.
Does anyone have the little drill press?? If so how good is it?
Many thanks, artme.
I am wondering how effective the attachments, such as the router base, would be with this tool.
Does anyone have the little drill press?? If so how good is it?
Many thanks, artme.
Router table Wanted
Hi everyone,does anyone have a router table (RT) they no longer need. I want to install my router in an RT but will have to alter some aspects of the table to suit my disability.(I have 3 big sons who assist with any heavy stuff). Price depends on quality. Thank you kindly, Jim. jj777746.
Hi jhon here
Hello i am jhon a new user here. I am here to discuss about woodworking plan, tools and other important aspect.
QLD Rosewood and other pen blanks
Offering 45 beautifully figured,seasoned pen blanks
All 150mm long x 22mm-28mm square
All select grade
Asking $50 the lot,price includes postage anywhere in OZ...MM:2tsup:
16 x Blackwood
14 x Rosewood
12 x Cedrela (Spanish Cedar)
1 x Mango
1 x Forest Red Gum
1 x Brush Box
All 150mm long x 22mm-28mm square
All select grade
Asking $50 the lot,price includes postage anywhere in OZ...MM:2tsup:
16 x Blackwood
14 x Rosewood
12 x Cedrela (Spanish Cedar)
1 x Mango
1 x Forest Red Gum
1 x Brush Box
gearbox plate
hi
has any one got a photo copy of a hercus 9a gearbox plate i can barely read mine
thanks steve
has any one got a photo copy of a hercus 9a gearbox plate i can barely read mine
thanks steve
G'day G'day
G'day everybody, the old mans been raving about how good this forum is for a while now so thought i would join in and find out what all the fuss is about. hope to learn a thing or two from you all.. :-):B
ER collet variations!! BEWARE
jeudi 29 janvier 2015
A word of warning, NOT all collets are the same. I recently bought an imperial set of Chinese ER25 collets and bought a separate one, a vertex 12-13 mm. Thinking that there was a standard that they would be made to, DUH, wrong. The original set I had are 4 degrees, the latest set 5.5 degrees, while the vertex is 8.5 degrees and is very short.
Has anyone else come across this problem??? The latest set I could probably get away with using, but the vertex is way out, so it's for sale if anyone is interested.
Kryn
Has anyone else come across this problem??? The latest set I could probably get away with using, but the vertex is way out, so it's for sale if anyone is interested.
Kryn
Review of Prima 2500 panel saw
I bought a brand new Prima 2500 sliding panel saw from Peter at Leda Machinery - Melbourne. Single phase machine (3ponies for the main blade and 1/2 a pony for the scriber). Chinese model name is MJ6132TZ (or something close to that. this is just the model no. on the instruction booklet). before purchasing, I could not find any review of the machine. I only took one quick look at it on the showroom floor and bought it a couple months later after a holiday in the US.
I have been using panelsaws at work for 15 years and I have used a Altendorf F45, 2 SCM's (dunno the model, atleast 18yrs old) and a Felder (2003 model). Of all of the panelsaws I have used, excluding price, the Prima 2500 runs second after the Altendorf which stands to reason. the altendorf is a beautiful machine designed and built in germany and a real workhorse.
Anyway, to the prima. the things I like about it are...
-The price, its a great machine for the money.
-the sliding table locking mechanism is the best I have seen. It gives a dozen or so places where the table can be locked, so you dont need to drag the machine all the way to the back just to lock the table when lifting a sheet of 2400x1200x32 MDF by yourself and have the slider move around on you.
-The overhead guard is a heavy duty guard. made from plastic, but it is very thick and well thought out. It is easy to remove the standard guard and install the 45 degree guard just by releasing one knob and sliding it out of its groove. It has a couple of those gas struts which support the weight of the guard so you can choose to set the guard at any height and it will actually stay there rather than gradually falling down closer to the table. It has a 70mm dust port.
- It has digital readout of the sawblade angle
- the outrigger table is of solid construction. It can hold my weight (90kg) sitting on the very edge of it without it buckling much...
- the sliding table slides smooth and straight.
- basically everything that needs to be moved to setup the machine to cut square, parallel etc has some kind of an adjustment, some adjustments are bad, and some are good. you can adjust the sliding table to run parallel to the square, you can adjust the height of the outrigger to sit flush with the table surface, you can adjust the squaring arm to cut square, you can adjust the ripping fence to be parallel with the saw/square to outrigger. you can adjust the steel measuring tapes so the read the exact measurement. and you can adjust the scribing saw to be inline with main saw blade.
- you can choose to have the scribing blade turned on..or in my case turned off because i rarely cut melamine and as such I have removed the scriber.
so thats the good stuff. a bit of the bad...
- the riving knife supplied is very very cheap...not straight and too big, even at its lowest point it is still a fraction higher than the top point of the saw blade which is a problem when running a 3.2mm slot in a drawside for the the bottom. I think it is just a piece of mild steel roughly cut to shape with a bit of a bevel on the front edge. Ill have to get a better one or run the machine without a riving knife.
-its not very easy to change the location of the squaring fence from infront of the timber (cutting sheets) to behind it (docking solid timber). It doesnt seat itself into one fixed position, so everytime you remove it to change location, your measuring tapes might be out a bit. because the fence can slide left/right when not tightened down. I have decided just to keep it hard left and that will have to suffice.
- the electrical plug supplied which is running one 3hp motor +1/2hp motor has a 10amp plug...i think it pulls about 2625watts which exceeds a 10amp circuit. I run it off a 15amp circuit with 16amp breakers...but really it should have a 15amp plug.
- i dont think there is capacity to put any sort of a dado set in. you might be able to get away with max 8mm dado's if your clever. Im not too sure, I havent looked at the length of the arbor, there is definitely room inside the table to add a blade 10mm wide by removing a table insert..
-the main blade dust port is only 4inch...commonly panelsaws have 5 inch ports. the 4inch port is kinda set in stone since the dust passes thru a pretty substantial piece of steel (10-12mm thick) so it would be pretty difficulty to open it up. alot of the dust just falls to the floor anyways or gets blown back behind the workpiece, I have never had a panelsaw which had sufficient dust extraction, its just a messy machine. I think ill just add a 3rd hose running under the table with a 'catchers mitt' setup to catch whateva falls.
All in all, if money wasnt an issue, I would buy an Altendorf just because its a slightly (and i mean..only slightly) more refined machine. since I can buy about 3 chinese machines for every altendorf....I would have no problems recommending these chinese built Prima's that Leda sell. its packs alot of punch for your dollar.
20150130_150509[1].jpg20150130_150541[1].jpg20150130_150615[1].jpg
I have been using panelsaws at work for 15 years and I have used a Altendorf F45, 2 SCM's (dunno the model, atleast 18yrs old) and a Felder (2003 model). Of all of the panelsaws I have used, excluding price, the Prima 2500 runs second after the Altendorf which stands to reason. the altendorf is a beautiful machine designed and built in germany and a real workhorse.
Anyway, to the prima. the things I like about it are...
-The price, its a great machine for the money.
-the sliding table locking mechanism is the best I have seen. It gives a dozen or so places where the table can be locked, so you dont need to drag the machine all the way to the back just to lock the table when lifting a sheet of 2400x1200x32 MDF by yourself and have the slider move around on you.
-The overhead guard is a heavy duty guard. made from plastic, but it is very thick and well thought out. It is easy to remove the standard guard and install the 45 degree guard just by releasing one knob and sliding it out of its groove. It has a couple of those gas struts which support the weight of the guard so you can choose to set the guard at any height and it will actually stay there rather than gradually falling down closer to the table. It has a 70mm dust port.
- It has digital readout of the sawblade angle
- the outrigger table is of solid construction. It can hold my weight (90kg) sitting on the very edge of it without it buckling much...
- the sliding table slides smooth and straight.
- basically everything that needs to be moved to setup the machine to cut square, parallel etc has some kind of an adjustment, some adjustments are bad, and some are good. you can adjust the sliding table to run parallel to the square, you can adjust the height of the outrigger to sit flush with the table surface, you can adjust the squaring arm to cut square, you can adjust the ripping fence to be parallel with the saw/square to outrigger. you can adjust the steel measuring tapes so the read the exact measurement. and you can adjust the scribing saw to be inline with main saw blade.
- you can choose to have the scribing blade turned on..or in my case turned off because i rarely cut melamine and as such I have removed the scriber.
so thats the good stuff. a bit of the bad...
- the riving knife supplied is very very cheap...not straight and too big, even at its lowest point it is still a fraction higher than the top point of the saw blade which is a problem when running a 3.2mm slot in a drawside for the the bottom. I think it is just a piece of mild steel roughly cut to shape with a bit of a bevel on the front edge. Ill have to get a better one or run the machine without a riving knife.
-its not very easy to change the location of the squaring fence from infront of the timber (cutting sheets) to behind it (docking solid timber). It doesnt seat itself into one fixed position, so everytime you remove it to change location, your measuring tapes might be out a bit. because the fence can slide left/right when not tightened down. I have decided just to keep it hard left and that will have to suffice.
- the electrical plug supplied which is running one 3hp motor +1/2hp motor has a 10amp plug...i think it pulls about 2625watts which exceeds a 10amp circuit. I run it off a 15amp circuit with 16amp breakers...but really it should have a 15amp plug.
- i dont think there is capacity to put any sort of a dado set in. you might be able to get away with max 8mm dado's if your clever. Im not too sure, I havent looked at the length of the arbor, there is definitely room inside the table to add a blade 10mm wide by removing a table insert..
-the main blade dust port is only 4inch...commonly panelsaws have 5 inch ports. the 4inch port is kinda set in stone since the dust passes thru a pretty substantial piece of steel (10-12mm thick) so it would be pretty difficulty to open it up. alot of the dust just falls to the floor anyways or gets blown back behind the workpiece, I have never had a panelsaw which had sufficient dust extraction, its just a messy machine. I think ill just add a 3rd hose running under the table with a 'catchers mitt' setup to catch whateva falls.
All in all, if money wasnt an issue, I would buy an Altendorf just because its a slightly (and i mean..only slightly) more refined machine. since I can buy about 3 chinese machines for every altendorf....I would have no problems recommending these chinese built Prima's that Leda sell. its packs alot of punch for your dollar.
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Doll Display Case
It's not really a toy but I still think it qualifies for this section of the forum.
Left over scraps from under the bench and $13 for glass and mirrors. I think the intended owner was expecting something in Perspex.
John
Left over scraps from under the bench and $13 for glass and mirrors. I think the intended owner was expecting something in Perspex.
John
ACT Spalted Tamarind Pen Blanks
Heres some black line Spalted Tamarind, 22mm x 150mm. this is not an auction $26 postage included.
Cheers. Ben
Cheers. Ben
Consultant
I was on the computer in my home office when my eight-year-old son
asked what I did for a living.
"I'm a consultant," I said.
"What's a consultant?"
"It's someone who watches people work and then tells them how they
could do it better."
"We have people like that in my class," he said, "but we call them pests."
asked what I did for a living.
"I'm a consultant," I said.
"What's a consultant?"
"It's someone who watches people work and then tells them how they
could do it better."
"We have people like that in my class," he said, "but we call them pests."
edge tool making seminars
A thought occurred to me reading the 'blunt' chisel thread last night; anyone thinking of making edged tools should seriously consider going to the Australian Blade Symposium.
-A weekend of expert demonstrators detailing the skills to make edged tools and knives. 14th & 15th March 2015, Tahmoor NSW. See further details (including the lecture options) at; http://ift.tt/1yHj0kp
Also discussion/ details may be found on facebook at Australian Blacksmiths, Bladesmiths and Knifemakers Network
MrSmith has also noted this in the Metal work Announcements thread; http://ift.tt/1tBpqpF
regs,
AndrewOC
-A weekend of expert demonstrators detailing the skills to make edged tools and knives. 14th & 15th March 2015, Tahmoor NSW. See further details (including the lecture options) at; http://ift.tt/1yHj0kp
Also discussion/ details may be found on facebook at Australian Blacksmiths, Bladesmiths and Knifemakers Network
MrSmith has also noted this in the Metal work Announcements thread; http://ift.tt/1tBpqpF
regs,
AndrewOC
Hercus Oil
I've not seen this information on the site (it may be here?). An oil company rep advised this morning that a major reason for not using engine oil in a Lathe is that engine oil absorbs moisture and may emulsify - the moisture in emulsified oil can create rust and thus damage Lathe bearings etc.
He stated that the correct oil an ISE 100 Bearing and Circulating Oil.
(I intend to use Air Compressor Oil as it appears to have the correct spec and can be purchased in a smaller quantity than 20 litres.)
Arthur
He stated that the correct oil an ISE 100 Bearing and Circulating Oil.
(I intend to use Air Compressor Oil as it appears to have the correct spec and can be purchased in a smaller quantity than 20 litres.)
Arthur
Lathe Chuck Internal Lubrication
I have my small 3-jaw in pieces for a clean - it was getting a bit sticky when operating the key.
No real surprises, just a build-up of dirt and old lubrication, it should go back together fine.
But, what to use as a lubricant for the internal bevel gears and scroll support spigot ?
This thread does not relate to the scroll/jaw interface which will be lubricated with a light oil.
The chuck seemed to have remnants of a lithium style grease.
I have seen references to using lithium grease, high pressure 'tacky' grease, high pressure moly grease and heavy way lube.
Grease seems to be used on high-performance chucks that are fitted with grease nipples.
Is there any consensus on what to use ?
John.
No real surprises, just a build-up of dirt and old lubrication, it should go back together fine.
But, what to use as a lubricant for the internal bevel gears and scroll support spigot ?
This thread does not relate to the scroll/jaw interface which will be lubricated with a light oil.
The chuck seemed to have remnants of a lithium style grease.
I have seen references to using lithium grease, high pressure 'tacky' grease, high pressure moly grease and heavy way lube.
Grease seems to be used on high-performance chucks that are fitted with grease nipples.
Is there any consensus on what to use ?
John.
Miniature Cardinal Pair
This is a miniature pair of cardinals. Basswood and acrylic paints. Each measures 3 inches long by 1.6 inches high.
Claude
Claude
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