After a trip to Turkey we came home with six 200x200mm square tiles. The idea was that I would mount and frame them - finally completed.
Part of the problem was in the trying for Turkish walnut as the frame - impossible to find what I needed so we ended up with American Blackwood which was totally new to me. Started with lengths at 45mm square, routed the profile using 3 different cutters at differing heights and then the recess for the backing plate and tiles. Prior to starting I had to make a jig for the RAS as I only use it in the crosscut position - extravagant I know but the resetting to crosscut can be done but is a pain and time consuming. This jig allows me to cut lengths as long as 900mm which is more than I will ever need to do (at this stage). Because the RAS pulls the timber towards the fence the timber is required to be on the inside of the aluminium wings rather than the outside as you would have on a table saw. This method and jig would also suit any drop or sliding compound saw and is highly accurate.
Pix 1 - the tiles glued to the 9mm ply backer, glue was Sikaflex 11FC which is strong but very slightly flexible.
Pix 2 - setting up the jig, as the complete angle is 90 degrees, should something be or go off then the cuts would be complimentary and still give a 90 degree corner.
Pix 3 - checking the angle to the blade.
Pix 4 - cutting and checking a sample.
Pix 5 - actual profile used.
Pix 6 / 7 - cutting the length and breadths
Pix 8 - frame being glued together, the cradle is a Veritas frame kit.
Pix 9 - gaps to allow for any movement between the frame and the tiles and backer.
Pix 10 - I don't have a Domino and couldn't use biscuits or dowels for corner support, I routed a 3mm groove in the corners and fitted 3mm x 26mm deep angle using 24 hour epoxy rather than the 5 minute stuff.
Pix 11 - had to use a Dremel router attachment as the bit had to be 3mm and the smallest bit I can fit into my Hitachi is 6mm. The popstick is double sided taped to the base as the cutter relief caused a problem when near the corners.
Pix 12 - Finishing, had run out of Minwax WOP and can't get anymore as you know who no longer stocks it. Went with the Feast Watson and am not unhappy with it. I am a smoker but the ashtray is actually my WOP holder - no corners, heavy enough so that it doesn't shift unless I want it to move, easy to load up the cloth and the holders on the corners allow for any decanting afterwards, easy to clean - try it I'm sure you'll like it.
Pix 13 - as you will appreciate, 6 tiles + 9mm ply backer + frame was heavy. I couldn't use the normal timber French cleat as it would stand off the wall, the solution (expensive at $22.20) was to use an aluminium French cleat. It says 50kg when used on plaster - I'll have to take their word for it - I have 4 screws into the plaster but 1 large in the middle into a hardwood stud. Using wire and screws were not an option due to the wall and frame standoff.
Pix 14 - finished and hanging on the wall.
Happy to answer any questions - enjoy.
Part of the problem was in the trying for Turkish walnut as the frame - impossible to find what I needed so we ended up with American Blackwood which was totally new to me. Started with lengths at 45mm square, routed the profile using 3 different cutters at differing heights and then the recess for the backing plate and tiles. Prior to starting I had to make a jig for the RAS as I only use it in the crosscut position - extravagant I know but the resetting to crosscut can be done but is a pain and time consuming. This jig allows me to cut lengths as long as 900mm which is more than I will ever need to do (at this stage). Because the RAS pulls the timber towards the fence the timber is required to be on the inside of the aluminium wings rather than the outside as you would have on a table saw. This method and jig would also suit any drop or sliding compound saw and is highly accurate.
Pix 1 - the tiles glued to the 9mm ply backer, glue was Sikaflex 11FC which is strong but very slightly flexible.
Pix 2 - setting up the jig, as the complete angle is 90 degrees, should something be or go off then the cuts would be complimentary and still give a 90 degree corner.
Pix 3 - checking the angle to the blade.
Pix 4 - cutting and checking a sample.
Pix 5 - actual profile used.
Pix 6 / 7 - cutting the length and breadths
Pix 8 - frame being glued together, the cradle is a Veritas frame kit.
Pix 9 - gaps to allow for any movement between the frame and the tiles and backer.
Pix 10 - I don't have a Domino and couldn't use biscuits or dowels for corner support, I routed a 3mm groove in the corners and fitted 3mm x 26mm deep angle using 24 hour epoxy rather than the 5 minute stuff.
Pix 11 - had to use a Dremel router attachment as the bit had to be 3mm and the smallest bit I can fit into my Hitachi is 6mm. The popstick is double sided taped to the base as the cutter relief caused a problem when near the corners.
Pix 12 - Finishing, had run out of Minwax WOP and can't get anymore as you know who no longer stocks it. Went with the Feast Watson and am not unhappy with it. I am a smoker but the ashtray is actually my WOP holder - no corners, heavy enough so that it doesn't shift unless I want it to move, easy to load up the cloth and the holders on the corners allow for any decanting afterwards, easy to clean - try it I'm sure you'll like it.
Pix 13 - as you will appreciate, 6 tiles + 9mm ply backer + frame was heavy. I couldn't use the normal timber French cleat as it would stand off the wall, the solution (expensive at $22.20) was to use an aluminium French cleat. It says 50kg when used on plaster - I'll have to take their word for it - I have 4 screws into the plaster but 1 large in the middle into a hardwood stud. Using wire and screws were not an option due to the wall and frame standoff.
Pix 14 - finished and hanging on the wall.
Happy to answer any questions - enjoy.
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