Hi all,
I'm looking for some help on improving my speed when sawing abutments. I'd love to hear from all comers, but I'm especially hoping Isaac will weigh in on this. (pretty please Isaac :) )
When making a wooden bench plane, one needs to make two sawcuts on each side of the throat. Here's a pic showing these cuts:
IMG_1309.JPG
The length of these cuts ranges from about 3 1/2" to 5", depending on the plane. The back cut is a through-cut, the other is a stopped cut (for double irons). Normal material is QS beech.
Currently, I use a saw I made out of an old compass blade. It looks like an edge float. The blade is .060" thick, 7" long, and 8 tpi, filed with 10° rake and 10° fleam. It's flush-cutting and has no set. It gives nice accurate cuts, but is slow and can bind a little near the end.
Here's what I'm looking for advice on:
1) Thickness. I definitely prefer having a stiffer saw than the typical flush cut saw, because it helps keep those long cuts straight. But I'm thinking that a slightly thinner blade, maybe .032-.040, would help speed things up. I have some .034"-thick 1074 that I could use. Does that sound right, or would something else be better?
2) Optimum filing. As far as the ideal tpi and rake/fleam, I really don't know, so I'm totally open to suggestions. Anecdotal evidence: I started with the hybrid 10°/10°, then modified it to a more typical crosscut filing. That was terrible--took all day--so I went back to the hybrid filing. I've toyed with the idea of a straight rip filing, but I want a good surface on the front cut, so I'm not sure if I would still get that. I'm using 8 tpi only because that's how the donor blade was filed.
3) Set. I'm toying with the idea of making a left/right pair, and setting only one side of each saw. Is it worth the trouble?
Thoughts, anyone? If you've read this far, thanks for your patience in wading through this long post!
Steve
I'm looking for some help on improving my speed when sawing abutments. I'd love to hear from all comers, but I'm especially hoping Isaac will weigh in on this. (pretty please Isaac :) )
When making a wooden bench plane, one needs to make two sawcuts on each side of the throat. Here's a pic showing these cuts:
IMG_1309.JPG
The length of these cuts ranges from about 3 1/2" to 5", depending on the plane. The back cut is a through-cut, the other is a stopped cut (for double irons). Normal material is QS beech.
Currently, I use a saw I made out of an old compass blade. It looks like an edge float. The blade is .060" thick, 7" long, and 8 tpi, filed with 10° rake and 10° fleam. It's flush-cutting and has no set. It gives nice accurate cuts, but is slow and can bind a little near the end.
Here's what I'm looking for advice on:
1) Thickness. I definitely prefer having a stiffer saw than the typical flush cut saw, because it helps keep those long cuts straight. But I'm thinking that a slightly thinner blade, maybe .032-.040, would help speed things up. I have some .034"-thick 1074 that I could use. Does that sound right, or would something else be better?
2) Optimum filing. As far as the ideal tpi and rake/fleam, I really don't know, so I'm totally open to suggestions. Anecdotal evidence: I started with the hybrid 10°/10°, then modified it to a more typical crosscut filing. That was terrible--took all day--so I went back to the hybrid filing. I've toyed with the idea of a straight rip filing, but I want a good surface on the front cut, so I'm not sure if I would still get that. I'm using 8 tpi only because that's how the donor blade was filed.
3) Set. I'm toying with the idea of making a left/right pair, and setting only one side of each saw. Is it worth the trouble?
Thoughts, anyone? If you've read this far, thanks for your patience in wading through this long post!
Steve
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