TREE CHANGE

Well after 40 odd years working, now reached that point at which the government give me back some of my hard earned :rolleyes:



The wife and I having lived all our lives in the Hawkesbury have sold up and moving to Cowra to be nearer our son, daughter-in-law and grandchildren also the brother-in-law has just moved to Cowra as well.



Currently staying in Oberon with some friends for about 2 to 3 months until we find something we like or build something but first a short holiday in some warmer climate, snow here the last 2 days and more to come, I dont need the cold to tell me where my joints are



What ever we decide, the wife insists THERE HAS TO BE A SHED.....:2tsup:.... she knows her priorities.



Looking forward to catching up with members here at a more leisurely pace.



Cheers

Which Taps would you buy?

Today I snapped my (cheap) M6 tap on my second of 6 holes... Not happy as on a Sunday arvo I couldn't find another quickly to get my job finished...



So I now need another M6 tap but thought I'd replace my other cheap ones with better quality ones whilst I'm at it.



So, what taps would you buy? Standard plug and taper or the spiral ones? Chinese or Australian/English/USA?



Also, should I look at second hand ones or new only?



I'm probably looking for M3 - M12.



Any suggestions, thoughts or recommendations please.



I don't want to spend a fortune as I don't use them all that often, but the cheap Chinese ones I have at the moment are rubbish.



Thx

Jon





Thx

Jon

Antrac looking lathe in WA

http://ift.tt/1mtRYqL



Well the seller says its a Colchester clone but i have never seen a colchester like that. Looks an awful lot like the Antrac but with slightly different QCGB controls and no 3rd rod. I'd say another Mori Seiki clone.



Ew

ACE chisel morticer, a bit of help please.

Hi,

I have the use of an old ACE chisel morticer that i am bringing back to life.

I have a few questions and hope someone can help me.



It is in pretty good condition but there are three things that i need help with......



1 - it has the wrong vice on the sliding table, Does anyone have parts for sale? or is there a man in melbourne that i can talk to about parts?

2 - it has a limited range of chisels and the collet is fairly bruised (might be ok but someone must have parts?)



3 - This is the one that has me scratching my head.

It's a 3phase, driven by a flat belt.

There is a throwout bearing on the shaft that drives the drill bit (throught the bevel gears)

This bearing is pushed out by lifting the morticer head up to an adjustable stop, which i suppose is to disengage the drill from turning while it is idle?

My problem is that there is not enough travel on the bearing to disengage the drive, and the engagement mechanism looks pretty inefficient.

I hope the photos help, ( i will move the machine somewhere i can get better photos)

The shaft (driven by the wheel) has two long keys that engage with the wheel and the wheel would have to travel more than 50mm to disengage.

The shaft is drilled to grease the wheel, the wheel is designed to slide back and forth on the shaft but i can't see how it would ever disengage, and if it did i can't see how it would re-engage without risking breaking.



the drive wheel has two long keyways and brass bearings inside it



Anybody want to tell me what i'm not seeing?2014-06-29_13-38-34_827.jpg2014-06-29_13-39-00_891.jpg2014-06-29_13-39-16_648.jpg2014-06-29_13-39-26_961.jpg2014-06-29_13-39-41_591.jpg2014-06-29_13-39-57_478.jpg2014-06-29_13-40-05_781.jpg2014-06-29_13-40-21_416.jpg

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Cnc router in Central qld.

We'll I'm looking to get a arcade cabinet made. Cut cheets will be provided just wonder who can cut it for me.



I had a cabinet maker cut out all some mdf pannels before to make a small project and got totally reamed by him.



Or even some one that has decent wood work skills there are no curved cuts.



Rockhampton or Gladstone would be great. But getting yo the stage were I would get it flat packed from anyware.





Cheers

MAKING V-BLOCKS

I am on making V-blocks the block is 55x65x140L I will cut into two.

I have already marked out everything drilled at the bottom of both V's and milled out the clamp slots on the sides. The ML7 vertical mill is a great attachment as are my hold down clamps but limited.



I am cutting two V's one large one small. Large will be approx 1" deep, small approx 1/2 deep.



My dill-ema is in doing the V's.



In all my web searches on making V-blocks each one I find has either another set of V-blocks to set the angles with for milling or an inclination/angled vice.



To do this without using the above I have so far come up with.



1 Hand cut rough the V then mill on the ML7 to finish



2 Use the 4x6 BS in vertical mod again rough cut and mill



I still need a way to mount and clamp the block on the lathe to mill it.



Any suggestions

Problem with freshly concreted deck stirrups

Hi,



This is my first post on Renovate, I've been reading posts here for a few years now and finally had a tricky question of my own.



On the weekend we had 3 fairly large concreting jobs going on (a slab for a 6x6 shed, a monolithic foundation for a block fence and some footings for a deck we plan to build later this year). And in one aspect I've ended up with a disaster.



Since we had a lot going on I left my brother (who is in his second year of his engineering course - been doing reno's for many years - and should know better) to supervise the pouring of the deck foundations after we'd had a a discussion about how I needed the stirrups orientated and positioned, meanwhile I was out the front dealing with the fence foundations. And long story short he paid very little attention to detail on how the stirrups were placed, so by the time I came around the back to check the concrete was already setting (the stirrups wouldn't budge) and thus the problem is more or less set in stone. They are all orientated the correct way however at least two of them are out of line and another 2 are on wonky angles.



My initial thoughts are to cut off the offending stirrups and use some bolt on stirrups, however this will deviate from the plans we've had drawn up (they can of course be altered) but I was also wondering is it possible for the ones on wonky angles for the posts to still be attached ? From what I understand the posts don't sit on the middle plate and are supposed to some 50mm off it, thus I can see why this wouldn't work short of it not looking quite right.



Does anyone have any other suggestions? I'm still in a bit of shock about it because we were so careful with everything else.



The type of post anchor I've used is exactly this: Dunnings 90 x 600mm Galvanised Hi Wind Post Anchor I/N 1090047 | Bunnings Warehouse





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