pair of lecuo carbie planner blades as new full 10mm of carbide no nicks 618mm x30mmx3mm they are to wide for my machine , if needed they coul be cut ihalf giving 4 at 300mm will post at buyers cost
WEDDING PENS
I had just drafted a longer post but the computer crashed and I lost it. Ohh well - :doh:
I haven't made a pen for over three months and I really haven't been in the shed for that long either. A few health issues and dear old lady depression hit for a while. I had an order for a set of wedding pens and it was either do them or find someone to do them this week as time had run out. It motivated me a little and I finally got around to making them. They are top end Majestics set in American Holly which is supposed to be a near perfect white timber. Don't believe everything you read as its closer to a pine colour which was a bit disappointing but the client is happy. The engraving and gold colour filling was done for me by Tony (Perfect Pens and Pencils) who also supplied the kits. I don't think you will get them cheaper elsewhere. As usual my photography is up the creek so the gold doesn't stand out properly. I took a flash shot to try and show it up a bit better.
Anyway these are off to a new home and I have motivated myself enough to start on a Churchill fountain pen/rollerball set I have had sitting for months (also from Tony). They are a beautiful classical kit and very underestimated. I can never find a pen in the house when I need one so the next set is MINE :D
I haven't made a pen for over three months and I really haven't been in the shed for that long either. A few health issues and dear old lady depression hit for a while. I had an order for a set of wedding pens and it was either do them or find someone to do them this week as time had run out. It motivated me a little and I finally got around to making them. They are top end Majestics set in American Holly which is supposed to be a near perfect white timber. Don't believe everything you read as its closer to a pine colour which was a bit disappointing but the client is happy. The engraving and gold colour filling was done for me by Tony (Perfect Pens and Pencils) who also supplied the kits. I don't think you will get them cheaper elsewhere. As usual my photography is up the creek so the gold doesn't stand out properly. I took a flash shot to try and show it up a bit better.
Anyway these are off to a new home and I have motivated myself enough to start on a Churchill fountain pen/rollerball set I have had sitting for months (also from Tony). They are a beautiful classical kit and very underestimated. I can never find a pen in the house when I need one so the next set is MINE :D
Amati Stagecoach first ever wood model Log
Hi
The is my first wood model and first build log.
I always wanted to do a ship, but as it was my fist time I thought that I would go for something a little easier. I looked at Hearns Hobbies in Melbourne and noticed a Artesania Latina Stagecoach kit. The price was a lot more than the plastic models I had done as a kid so I thought I would look around and research first. I can across thus forum and the builds by SCRIPT and ADRIEKE and after reading both decided that I would do the Amati model. Its about half the price again that the Latina was. The kit was online from Model Shipyard in NSW
Anyway here goes day one:
An Unboxing:
http://ift.tt/1yXm8bS
My setup in the study as the cars take up all the room in the garage and the little toolset used:
The parts pre assembly:
Finished but not glued & pined yet. 2 errors. Bands on wrong way on rear & lttle round thing on front I broke in half and had to glue together ( Bit excited removing parts from frame)
.
Thats it day one.
Great fun so far. Instructions vague on what to glue.
The is my first wood model and first build log.
I always wanted to do a ship, but as it was my fist time I thought that I would go for something a little easier. I looked at Hearns Hobbies in Melbourne and noticed a Artesania Latina Stagecoach kit. The price was a lot more than the plastic models I had done as a kid so I thought I would look around and research first. I can across thus forum and the builds by SCRIPT and ADRIEKE and after reading both decided that I would do the Amati model. Its about half the price again that the Latina was. The kit was online from Model Shipyard in NSW
Anyway here goes day one:
An Unboxing:
http://ift.tt/1yXm8bS
My setup in the study as the cars take up all the room in the garage and the little toolset used:
The parts pre assembly:
Finished but not glued & pined yet. 2 errors. Bands on wrong way on rear & lttle round thing on front I broke in half and had to glue together ( Bit excited removing parts from frame)
.Thats it day one.
Great fun so far. Instructions vague on what to glue.
My latest f#$*up
Black Locust burl bowl rough turned over 12 months ago and finish turned at the club on Wednesday ~200mm dia x ~200mm high x 5mm thick. Sanded to 1200 all over and it looked like it was polished :cool:. Found a dimple in the bottom as I left so decided to take it home to finish. Removed the dimple Ok, then removed the foot, but as I was doing a 50mm flat recess for branding BANG :o :cry4:.
Glued them together and gave it a quick coat of NCL, to give you an idea of what it was going to look like, although I was going to use oil. The coffee infill piece on the lip was never to be seen again :-
Glued them together and gave it a quick coat of NCL, to give you an idea of what it was going to look like, although I was going to use oil. The coffee infill piece on the lip was never to be seen again :-
Bulldozer from the Wood Magazine "Construction Series" with a Peter built twist....
Bulldozer from the Wood Magazine "Construction Series" with a Peter built twist....of is that PETERBILT??
Well it's been way too long since I had some fun in the shed on toymaking, though I have had shed time doing repairs and KindyGym things....it's not quite the same as making a new toy and personalizing it...
December was mad with end of year things, then came Christmas & New Year, plus Tracey & I having some time in Brisbane visiting my mum time has just flown by.... [Crow Speak for were has summer gone]......
The other issue is "Handy" my little smurf helper took himself on a holiday and was MIA for a month, some sort of Smurf Convention and he even bought my a couple of photos from the dance night after the party time.....he told me that if I look hard, he's in one of the photos somewhere....
Anyways, here's the start..... took about four hours to cut all the pieces to size and ensure I was happy with the mix of timbers....
Today I spent time marking out and cutting to shape the blocks plus drilling the holes for the axle pegs....
Cheers crowie
PS - Oh, I've used an idea from Fozzy [Mike] with this project which will be revieled later down the build.....
Well it's been way too long since I had some fun in the shed on toymaking, though I have had shed time doing repairs and KindyGym things....it's not quite the same as making a new toy and personalizing it...
December was mad with end of year things, then came Christmas & New Year, plus Tracey & I having some time in Brisbane visiting my mum time has just flown by.... [Crow Speak for were has summer gone]......
The other issue is "Handy" my little smurf helper took himself on a holiday and was MIA for a month, some sort of Smurf Convention and he even bought my a couple of photos from the dance night after the party time.....he told me that if I look hard, he's in one of the photos somewhere....
Anyways, here's the start..... took about four hours to cut all the pieces to size and ensure I was happy with the mix of timbers....
Today I spent time marking out and cutting to shape the blocks plus drilling the holes for the axle pegs....
Cheers crowie
PS - Oh, I've used an idea from Fozzy [Mike] with this project which will be revieled later down the build.....
Looking for Advice
I need to make two bench cupboards 2m long, 840 high and 640 deep.
The top will have a 20mm overhang all round. Plinth will probably be 40mm square pine
and back ply.
I am looking at a face frame, two end frames and a middle frame from which to hang doors.
Now, I have some good quality T&G hardwood flooring ( scrounged of course!:D ) that is 19mm thick and
90mm wide. With T&G removed it ends up about 80 wide.
Should I make the face frame from the T&G? I have no idea how it would stand up to Pocket hole joints
or biscuit joints.
A second method I though of would be to make the face frame from pine and then anchor the T&G to it
like a skin. I know this will add weight but may well be a safer method as I fear the T&G will split on the end grain
if I try pocket hole joints. Biscuit joints may not be the strongest option.
I think I can make the doors from the T&G also. I can run it through a thicknesser at the club to lessen the
weight but it may need some backing to prevent warping and twisting.
What are the thoughts of the brains trust.???
The top will have a 20mm overhang all round. Plinth will probably be 40mm square pine
and back ply.
I am looking at a face frame, two end frames and a middle frame from which to hang doors.
Now, I have some good quality T&G hardwood flooring ( scrounged of course!:D ) that is 19mm thick and
90mm wide. With T&G removed it ends up about 80 wide.
Should I make the face frame from the T&G? I have no idea how it would stand up to Pocket hole joints
or biscuit joints.
A second method I though of would be to make the face frame from pine and then anchor the T&G to it
like a skin. I know this will add weight but may well be a safer method as I fear the T&G will split on the end grain
if I try pocket hole joints. Biscuit joints may not be the strongest option.
I think I can make the doors from the T&G also. I can run it through a thicknesser at the club to lessen the
weight but it may need some backing to prevent warping and twisting.
What are the thoughts of the brains trust.???
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