:let::Party::balloons::cheerleader: Happy Birthday Alan
A benchtop made from floorboards
Dear all, I am considering glueing together our old floor boards (tassie oak) to make a kitchen benchtop about 1800x900mm.
I intend to laminate three layers of flooring to achieve a 60mm thickness, then trim the edges and sand/seal/polish.
The middle layer will run in an opposite direction for strength, I imagine.
The benchtop will have beneath it a hydronic radiator.
My doubts and unknowns:
- what kind of glue will be most effective?
- how to avoid warping the bench by the heat? (I'm told this happened to a laminated ikea bench.)
- what sealing product would be sensible on a benchtop destined for food preparation?
Many thanks in advance.
rubberwood
I intend to laminate three layers of flooring to achieve a 60mm thickness, then trim the edges and sand/seal/polish.
The middle layer will run in an opposite direction for strength, I imagine.
The benchtop will have beneath it a hydronic radiator.
My doubts and unknowns:
- what kind of glue will be most effective?
- how to avoid warping the bench by the heat? (I'm told this happened to a laminated ikea bench.)
- what sealing product would be sensible on a benchtop destined for food preparation?
Many thanks in advance.
rubberwood
A few hammers
I bought these in Osaka on the weekend. Prices are in yen.
Not sure if I paid too much.
Not sure if I paid too much.
QLD Australian Woodworker Mags 80+ copies
80+copies of Australian Woodworker mag. The earliest I cansee is #56 (July August 1994) through to #151 (June 2010). Almost fullycontinuous but missing a few here and there. All in good condition and lots ofgreat info. Asking $60 the lot.
Boat trailer draw bar modification
Hi all, Hoping for a bit of guidance on a boat trailer. I have an late 1960's ski boat on the original trailer and i would like to put brakes on the trailer to bring it up to current compliance. Also looking at extending the draw bar a little to hopefully improve backing the trailer as the nose of the boat comes close to hitting the back of the ute when reversing and it's just generally a bit of a pig to reverse. As you can see the previous owner has cut and moved the nose bar to keep the boat back on the trailer to make it easier to reverse. However this results in shifting a lot of the weight too far over the axle. 
The chassis channel is around 3.2mm thick and there is a approx 60mm angle 6.5mm thick set back with the first roller fixed to it. My thoughts are to cut out the existing tow hitch plate and insert (and weld in) a new draw bar that will continue through to a new cross piece that will also be used to add a post for a winch mount and so get rid of the old bar that goes over the nose of the boat. So I was wondering what size draw bar should I use and how much longer can I safely extend it past its current set up? I was thinking of working out where the nose of the boat will sit and then locate the cross bar around this area and run the winch post from the cross bar. The end result would be similar to the pick below. 
Any help is appreciated. Cheers p.s. sorry for the formatting, for some reason the formatting isn't recognizing spaces etc.
The chassis channel is around 3.2mm thick and there is a approx 60mm angle 6.5mm thick set back with the first roller fixed to it. My thoughts are to cut out the existing tow hitch plate and insert (and weld in) a new draw bar that will continue through to a new cross piece that will also be used to add a post for a winch mount and so get rid of the old bar that goes over the nose of the boat. So I was wondering what size draw bar should I use and how much longer can I safely extend it past its current set up? I was thinking of working out where the nose of the boat will sit and then locate the cross bar around this area and run the winch post from the cross bar. The end result would be similar to the pick below. Any help is appreciated. Cheers p.s. sorry for the formatting, for some reason the formatting isn't recognizing spaces etc.Home made rotary sander
Up until now I have been sanding using a cordless drill with some sanding pads. I made up a series of pads so I don't have to change the paper every time I want to change grits. As my batteries are starting to deteriorate, I decided it was time to make myself a rotary sander (for the all up cost of under $10.00).
I bought 10x 19mm bearings for $3.50 on ebay, and a copper 45 degree bend (internal diameter 19mm) for $6.50 from plumbing supplies. 90 degree was 1/2 that price, but 45 lets me get into tighter spaces).
Glued in 2 bearings on one side, and turned up a handle for the other. Shaft of the sanding pads was a tad too tight, but grinding off just a wee bit made them easy to get in & out.
20140728_201009.jpg
20140728_201134.jpg
20140729_203900.jpg
I bought 10x 19mm bearings for $3.50 on ebay, and a copper 45 degree bend (internal diameter 19mm) for $6.50 from plumbing supplies. 90 degree was 1/2 that price, but 45 lets me get into tighter spaces).
Glued in 2 bearings on one side, and turned up a handle for the other. Shaft of the sanding pads was a tad too tight, but grinding off just a wee bit made them easy to get in & out.
20140728_201009.jpg
20140728_201134.jpg
20140729_203900.jpg
This worth a look? (Table Saw)
I'm looking for my first big shop purchase ---- TABLE SAW. Unfortunately I don't know what's good/bad/ugly so I'm wondering if anyone can offer some advise on this puppy that's currently for sale in my area.
Info provided - Baker 12" table Rip Saw. 240 volt. Angle cut. Slide fence.
Any info would be great. Cheers.
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Info provided - Baker 12" table Rip Saw. 240 volt. Angle cut. Slide fence.
Any info would be great. Cheers.
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